Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[AndrewJ]

Hi @Tomsontour,

Many thanks for posting, excellent video. The points look very good. Are they N-gauge or 2mm FS?

[Caley Jim]

And then there were two!  The Dia16 pig iron wagon has been 'loaded' in the same way, though whoever did the loading has been a bit more haphazard in doing it!

 

 

Jim

Edited January 7, 2022 by Caley Jim
Typos

[Tomsontour]

On 07/01/2022 at 17:22, AndrewJ said:

Hi @Tomsontour,

Many thanks for posting, excellent video. The points look very good. Are they N-gauge or 2mm FS?

Finescale code 40 rail

[Yorkshire Square]

On 07/01/2022 at 17:22, AndrewJ said:

Hi @Tomsontour,

Many thanks for posting, excellent video. The points look very good. Are they N-gauge or 2mm FS?

 

As per the video, they are N gauge.

 

The 2FS version is available from the Association shop.

[AndrewJ]

Thanks @Yorkshire Square- my bad! I managed to miss the obvious.

Thanks too for the info about the 2FS version.

[Velocemitch]

Interesting that the wing rail is separate from the approaching rail, rather than bent up as one. I suppose its inevitable as its impossible to push a bent rail through the chairs. Looks like a weak point for alignment and electrical conductivity etc though??

 

How accurate is the crossing nose, are the rails shaped or do you have to file them to get the Vee angle correct? Obviously pushing one too far in from the end will close up the gauge.

 

How robust are the tie bars, I take the point that the slow acting motors are the way to go, but still it was always the Achilles heal of any pointwork I built, back in the eighties and nineties.

 

It all looks a far cry from the N Gauge turnouts I used to make, when it was a lottery what would run through them, given all the manufacturers had their own ideas on wheel profiles and back to back dimensions!

[jollysmart]

On 10/01/2022 at 18:53, Velocemitch said:

Interesting that the wing rail is separate from the approaching rail, rather than bent up as one. I suppose its inevitable as its impossible to push a bent rail through the chairs. Looks like a weak point for alignment and electrical conductivity etc though??

 

How accurate is the crossing nose, are the rails shaped or do you have to file them to get the Vee angle correct? Obviously pushing one too far in from the end will close up the gauge.

 

How robust are the tie bars, I take the point that the slow acting motors are the way to go, but still it was always the Achilles heal of any pointwork I built, back in the eighties and nineties.

 

It all looks a far cry from the N Gauge turnouts I used to make, when it was a lottery what would run through them, given all the manufacturers had their own ideas on wheel profiles and back to back dimensions!

 

If you go onto shop1 -  Track on the Association web site you can read the instructions for the construction of these turnouts which answer some/most of your questions.

[Velocemitch]

11 hours ago, jollysmart said:

 

If you go onto shop1 -  Track on the Association web site you can read the instructions for the construction of these turnouts which answer some/most of your questions.

Indeed it does thanks. I shall have to get one to play with.

[Izzy]

Being quite restricted with what I can do at the moment I thought making something nice & simple would be good. Often much satisfaction can be gained. So, a pair of GE rail-built loading gauges on the basis of why make one when two can do, one for Priory Road, the other for my newer circular project. Only that for the latter has been fitted as PR is stored in the cupboard.

 

 

 

 

 

As the track has been down a while now  - double-sided tape - and all seems okay, the rodding etc. is done, perhaps another little job to do is ballasting..... that should keep me occupied...!

 

Bob

 

 

Edited April 1, 2022 by Izzy

[Bryn]

 

Experimenting with oil paints on an old detailed Farish TTA. The paint has the linseed leached by placing it in card for a hour or so before use, then applied by brush and thinned where required.

[tapdieuk]

Next up on the workbench, a Midland Flatiron. An older (Beaver/ABS) whitemetal kit 

A Jinty 2mm finescale chassis has been made to fit. Rolling on old 10mm whitemetal centred wheels, that is what I had. So not quite scale,

With a bit milled off the body mounts the chassis looks ok. 

Lamp irons, hand rails and a but of cleaning up.

The red paint is what I had a rattle can of. 

Fox transfers (fantastic service) 

Both the black and yellow lining could be thinner, but its fiddly enough.

Number 2023, as this loco worked over the S&D 

There are bits for the bogie, and the motor requireds attaching on the chassis. 

 

 

There is nothing like a crude close up to highlight the small discrepancies!

Edited January 15, 2022 by tapdieuk
Photo link edit

[Compound2632]

6 hours ago, tapdieuk said:

Number 2023, as this loco worked over the S&D 

 

That was in 1911, when the locomotive was in its original condition, unsuperheated, with round-topped firebox.  But of course I appreciate that you are not modelling it as such but rather just choosing the number because of that association. Rebuilding with Belpaire boiler was in 1926.

Edited January 15, 2022 by Compound2632

[queensquare]

17 hours ago, tapdieuk said:

Next up on the workbench, a Midland Flatiron. An older (Beaver/ABS) whitemetal kit 

A Jinty 2mm finescale chassis has been made to fit. Rolling on old 10mm whitemetal centred wheels, that is what I had. So not quite scale,

With a bit milled off the body mounts the chassis looks ok. 

Lamp irons, hand rails and a but of cleaning up.

The red paint is what I had a rattle can of. 

Fox transfers (fantastic service) 

Both the black and yellow lining could be thinner, but its fiddly enough.

Number 2023, as this loco worked over the S&D 

There are bits for the bogie, and the motor requireds attaching on the chassis. 

 

 

There is nothing like a crude close up to highlight the small discrepancies!

 

 

The Flatiron looks really good, it might be an old kit but the quality of the castings is very good and they are essentially accurate. I have one and intend putting a 4F chassis etch under it -the standard Midland 8'x8'6" wheelbase is useful here.

I will run it as an unlikely but not impossible visitor to Bath. Once their propensity to derail was recognised they worked a lot of freight in the Birmingham  area so it doesn't seem unreasonable that one might have strayed as far south as Bath - well not in my world anyway,

 

Jerry

[andy stroud]

 

I don't normally post on this thread as I model in N gauge and not 2mm finescale but I am fairly pleased with this and thought it might be of interest.  It ustalises Farish bogies, the tops of the gear towers being crudely clamped into my brass chassis. The advantage of this being that not only is the mechanism self contained but so are the pick ups, only requiring wires to be soldered  onto the top of each gear tower. Quite a cheat really! The loco is currently being painted. 

[tapdieuk]

Final bits of lining around the cab opening and rear bunker, and the livery is finished ready for some weathering. 

Although I had to repaint the rear of the bunker after I scratched it. 

Fox's transfers have stood up well to my mauling. A few bits still to sort out/finish (bogie being the main part), although the chassis works. Even after the crankpins washers were soldered on! Not sure if I am pushing luck with fitting brake gear on it as well.

This the GNR13 and Blue Jinty, were all about learning the chassis building process, before I move on to more refined kits. I have fitted this with 38:1 worm gear to get it slow running for shunting. 

The Flatiron has grown on me, it still looks a bit ungainly, but there is plenty of weight in the body. 

Yes  Compound2632 it's in the later rebuilt  boiler for the S&D workings.  There is a photo in the Midland Album of  2019 at the head of a coal train in its later days. That's is what partly inspire me to get on and finish it, and some more  PO coal wagons. 

 

 

 

[Izzy]

19 hours ago, andy stroud said:

 

I don't normally post on this thread as I model in N gauge and not 2mm finescale but I am fairly pleased with this and thought it might be of interest.  It ustalises Farish bogies, the tops of the gear towers being crudely clamped into my brass chassis. The advantage of this being that not only is the mechanism self contained but so are the pick ups, only requiring wires to be soldered  onto the top of each gear tower. Quite a cheat really! The loco is currently being painted. 

 

Can I ask what the bogies used are Andy? Do I take it they are the latest versions? Be interested to see how you clamped them into the chassis. I did look at the new spares available and got a bit of a shock at the cost for a complete pair (£58). Perhaps I'm getting out of touch with prices. Look forward to seeing it painted.

 

Bob

[bradfordbuffer]

20 hours ago, andy stroud said:

 

I don't normally post on this thread as I model in N gauge and not 2mm finescale but I am fairly pleased with this and thought it might be of interest.  It ustalises Farish bogies, the tops of the gear towers being crudely clamped into my brass chassis. The advantage of this being that not only is the mechanism self contained but so are the pick ups, only requiring wires to be soldered  onto the top of each gear tower. Quite a cheat really! The loco is currently being painted. 

Tut tut not 2mm.....but cracking modeling...banger blue or boring green? Please keep updating 

[andy stroud]

1 hour ago, Izzy said:

 

Can I ask what the bogies used are Andy? Do I take it they are the latest versions? Be interested to see how you clamped them into the chassis. I did look at the new spares available and got a bit of a shock at the cost for a complete pair (£58). Perhaps I'm getting out of touch with prices. Look forward to seeing it painted.

 

Bob

Hi Bob. I am embarrassed to post this picture of my chassis but seeing as you asked! The tops of the bogie towers are held in place by pins (1mm brass rod) held in 1.6mm tube. The motor is held the same way with height adjustment simply by packing with shim. The bogies themselves retain their pull out/ push. They are from the current Farish 25.

 

 

[andy stroud]

15 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said:

Tut tut not 2mm.....but cracking modeling...banger blue or boring green? Please keep updating 

 

Blue. This was this morning.

[Ian Smith]

1 hour ago, andy stroud said:

 

Blue. This was this morning.

Oh No!!!  I think the display has gone on my phone, that looks yellow to me 

Seriously though Andy, it looks great and I wouldn’t be embarrassed by the inner workings. The object of the exercise is to have something that runs and looks the part. I don’t know about the former but it certainly looks the part. Although I probably should add that to me it looks like just another box on wheels and they all look the same to me anyway 

Ian

[andy stroud]

4 minutes ago, Ian Smith said:

Oh No!!!  I think the display has gone on my phone, that looks yellow to me 

Seriously though Andy, it looks great and I wouldn’t be embarrassed by the inner workings. The object of the exercise is to have something that runs and looks the part. I don’t know about the former but it certainly looks the part. Although I probably should add that to me it looks like just another box on wheels and they all look the same to me anyway 

Ian

Thankyou Ian your comments are very kind and quiet amusing as well!

[Ian Morgan]

33 minutes ago, Ian Smith said:

Although I probably should add that to me it looks like just another box on wheels and they all look the same to me anyway 

 

As do all those green kettles adorned with brass accessories,

 

 

[Izzy]

2 hours ago, andy stroud said:

Hi Bob. I am embarrassed to post this picture of my chassis but seeing as you asked! The tops of the bogie towers are held in place by pins (1mm brass rod) held in 1.6mm tube. The motor is held the same way with height adjustment simply by packing with shim. The bogies themselves retain their pull out/ push. They are from the current Farish 25.

 

 

 

Hi Andy,

Thanks, and don’t be. If it works, and your happy with it, that is all that counts. I’ve seen/handled stuff that looked a million dollars and couldn’t move an inch. Only good for a glass case so long as you didn’t breathe on them, when they’d literally just fall apart.

 

More to the point you made it. I see you’ve also used the motor & drive shafts. I’m always keen to source different ways of powering diesels etc. we wish to make ourselves so this is very helpful info. 

Bob

Edited January 18, 2022 by Izzy

[2mmMark]

2 hours ago, andy stroud said:

Hi Bob. I am embarrassed to post this picture of my chassis but seeing as you asked! The tops of the bogie towers are held in place by pins (1mm brass rod) held in 1.6mm tube. The motor is held the same way with height adjustment simply by packing with shim. The bogies themselves retain their pull out/ push. They are from the current Farish 25.

 

 

Fascinating to see this as my first 2mm loco that I started 40 years ago this year was a Langley Class 24 on a Mike Bryant diesel chassis kit.   It was a better runner than its Farish contemporaries.

What's the origin of the etch? Even at this stage, it looks very much like a Class 25/3, something where the old Farish model fails somewhat.

Mark

[andy stroud]

24 minutes ago, 2mmMark said:

What's the origin of the etch? Even at this stage, it looks very much like a Class 25/3, something where the old Farish model fails somewhat.

Mark

Hi Mark. It isn't actually an etch.  I think the sides are cut from 0.25mm  brass sheet. The cabs from 0.1mm if I remember correctly.