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nick_bastable

Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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On 29/10/2019 at 09:38, Valentin said:

 

What sort of baseboard is that?...


Am trying something different by using a piece of 3mm laser cut acrylic from work overlaid on the track plan...will report back on my blog how successful it has been...

 

On 29/10/2019 at 11:15, OFFTHE RAILS said:

 

Very nicely made pointwork.  But the PCB sleepers look much wider than the Easitrack sleepers. I found this when using 2mm society PCB sleepers with my N Finetrax. 

Does anyone make PCB sleepers which match the sleeper width of Easitrack and Finetrax?

Ian

 

Thank you - I think others have since answered this. Am not too worried as I rebuilt the turnouts for Kyle using PCB sat amongst easitrac and no one has commented to date. Apart from this turnout, the rest of the track will be PCB built but covered in a concrete apron...

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I've spent the last couple of days working out how to cut-and-shunt a Farish J39 donor to get the correct wheelbase for a J6.

 

Before:

 

20191113_185244.jpg.9091ac4614404beb27e152b25cb5f14c.jpg

 

After:

 

20191114_185345.jpg.435d580a86b453d986d2bb71d7833975.jpg

 

The chassis bits have been epoxied back together and pinned using some M1.2 self tapping screws. Amazingly, everything still works!

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Yes. 3d printed driving wheels, modified original tender wheels.

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3 hours ago, -missy- said:

Yes. 3d printed driving wheels, modified original tender wheels.


Good to see you back Julia - looks great :good:

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5 hours ago, -missy- said:

Yes. 3d printed driving wheels, modified original tender wheels.

 

Lookks really good. Would this be the best tedhnique to produce some wheels for an outside framed loco such as a Duke?

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26 minutes ago, Donw said:

 

Lookks really good. Would this be the best tedhnique to produce some wheels for an outside framed loco such as a Duke?

Hi Don

I used the same technique for my City driving wheels but took it one step further and used the 3d prints as masters for Brass casting. I have used both techniques successfully to date.

J.

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Julia, I have so many questions! :biggrin_mini2:

 

How did you transfer the print to brass?  Using the standard resin rather than brass, do you think this process would be suitable for larger scales, or would it be too fragile?

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I would guess that they were printed in either a resin or wax which leaves no residue when it burns and these were then used to make brass castings by the usual lost resin/wax process.

 

Jim

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What Jim said. When I have had casting done from prints I've let the supplier handle it all. The first time was a wax cast in Al. LM24 to create power tool gear supports in a professional capacity. That was done in the UK. Most recently I had shapeways cast me some belpaire fireboxes in brass. Nick Tilson of n brass locos does (or has done for him) lost wax casting and may be able to help if you wanted to try this and deal with a friendly person in the UK rather than a large company with an automated interface- different pros and cons.

 

In large scales the wheels may be strong enough in prints and not cast. The mass and forces increase with size, which could counteract the strength increase from larger sections somewhat.

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3 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

Julia, I have so many questions! https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin_mini2.gif

 

How did you transfer the print to brass?  Using the standard resin rather than brass, do you think this process would be suitable for larger scales, or would it be too fragile?

 

Hi William.

 

As Jim said, the resin 3DP wheel was taken to my friendly Investment casting company who used it as a master to cast in Brass. Not a difficult or costly process to do. I added extra material to specific areas of the wheel so I could then machine them to size afterwards. I cannot see any reason why this could not be used in any scale really, I do know that the principle has been used for 5 inch gauge live steam stuff, and even 1:1 full size prototypes (I know because I have done it).

 

J.

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2 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

I would guess that they were printed in either a resin or wax which leaves no residue when it burns and these were then used to make brass castings by the usual lost resin/wax process.

 

Jim

 

The 3d prints can be used to create a rubber mould and waxes produced from this to be cast in brass in the usual manner, or the brass part can be cast directly from the 3d print as you suggest. I've seen the results of both approaches - the casting directly from the 3d print seems to result in a better finish, but then you need a 3d print for each casting that you want, whereas the mould can be used to make as many waxes as you need.

 

Andy

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On 16/11/2019 at 20:22, -missy- said:

so pleased to see you back and posting ,  can you please  tell me how you have managed to insulate the wheels given the chassis is not split ? did you retain the farish pick ups as well ?

 

thanks

 

Nick 

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37 minutes ago, nick_bastable said:

so pleased to see you back and posting ,  can you please  tell me how you have managed to insulate the wheels given the chassis is not split ? did you retain the farish pick ups as well ?

 

thanks

 

Nick 

 

If the centres are 3d prints in resin they would be insulated it would be the brass centred ones from a casting that would not be insulated and presumably would be best done as split axles. The 3d printed centres in resin would need to be shorted between the rim and the axles to be useable for split axle insulation. Otherwise I assume you need to fit pick ups.

Don

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Wot Don says Nick....

Edited by -missy-

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5 minutes ago, -missy- said:

Wot Don says Nick....

so just so I thoroughly understand this 3 wheels are brass centres with the other 3 been resin

 

sorry for been so thick

 

Nick

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1 hour ago, nick_bastable said:

so just so I thoroughly understand this 3 wheels are brass centres with the other 3 been resin

 

sorry for been so thick

 

Nick

There isn't such a thing as a stupid question Nick.

 

In the case of this engine, all the driving wheels are resin 3d printed. I have used the original farish pickups.

 

J.

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Two SG90 servomotors controlled by an Arduino UNO board. The actuator wire will be installed horizontally, in line with the wire / omega loop connected to the tie-bar. Together with the 'straight' and 'divergent' angles, the speed can be also adjusted. The four push-buttons have integrated green LEDs.

 

Link to the video clip (approx. 35 seconds)

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Untitled.jpg.09ccad593a40b6fb79f47c5cf5b32d46.jpg

 

I'm having a day operating the layout to work out any issues caused by ballasting and track weathering, I took a quick shot when the sun was low this morning over the horizon.  I've also reactivated the blog to keep track of progress;

 

 

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Right now, A Graham Farish 3F "Jinty" currently motor-less but I got that covered, it will be re-numbred to 47605 the example was originally 47313 I didn't quite fancy the original running number

 

I will use a motor I got in a Tram Electrification Conversion kit meant for Corgi/Atlas Trams, I'm not sure who necessarily made both the motor and kit itself, but I figured it would be perfect considering its low speeds, perfect for shunting , the original gear that was used with the original commentator will be recycled for use on the new motor, the new pickups will be made from paperclips, the model will have a Branchline Passenger head-code, I intend to use the Jinty with Lone Star Treble-O-Trains Coaches and Wagons re-done to look like from Christopher Awdrys Stories for my model to pull, the model was made in the 80s or 90s and is die-cast, and currently it free rolls really well! ^_^

IMG_4973.jpg

IMG_4975.jpg

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On 07/12/2019 at 01:11, Max's Model Railway said:

[...], the new pickups will be made from paperclips, [...]

 

The paper clips are far too stiff to reliably rub against the tyres. You should really use phosphor-bronze (P/B) wire or very narrow strips - much better elasticity and less prone to collect dirt from the tracks.

 

You won't find many chassis using pickups in 2mm finescale as these are made redundant by the split-chassis design; you should probably look for help with this issue in the "Modelling Questions, Help and Tips" forum.

Edited by Valentin

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I've just done an update to my blog, detailing some further progress on my Peckett saddle tank.

Mark

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