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Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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3 hours ago, chrisveitch said:

What's on my 2mm workbench is absolutely nothing unremarkable. It's a Farish 24 with a few wagons. What is remarkable is that after many, many years trying to get somewhere with 2mm scale I've finally got myself a running loco and some stock with couplers that work, etc, etc. Not I just need to get on with finishing the turnout and I'll nearly have a shunting plank!

 

49309387702_91ded4191b_c.jpg


About this time in 1983, I had almost exactly the same train, except my Class 24 was a Langley body kit on a Mike Bryant chassis and the wagons were Peco conversions. 

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Hi.

This is now the point of no return. Once the cranks are on I can no longer take the chassis apart due to the design (mainly me taking a slightly easier route on the design). Happy with the results so far though.

J.

20200102_165633.jpg

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Looking very good. How are you planning to fix the cranks? I await the next bit with interest.

 

Don

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3 hours ago, Donw said:

How are you planning to fix the cranks?

 

Don

 

Thanks Don.

 

They will be soldered in place.

 

J.

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Splendid stuff. Any idea what the situation is with the front two driving axles with regard to spacing when doing the 2FS conversion? ... did Mr Armes need to reduce the flanges or has Mr Farish spaced the axles a tad further apart than they strictly ought to be?

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18 minutes ago, D869 said:

Splendid stuff. Any idea what the situation is with the front two driving axles with regard to spacing when doing the 2FS conversion? ... did Mr Armes need to reduce the flanges or has Mr Farish spaced the axles a tad further apart than they strictly ought to be?

 

The driving wells are mounted on the milled chassis available from 2mm Association.

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1 hour ago, 2mmKiwi said:

 

The driving wells are mounted on the milled chassis available from 2mm Association.

 

The loco looks great. I can only see the chassis for the Manor/Grange/Hall on the shop list  is there one for a castle or has the other been adapted?

Don

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2 hours ago, Donw said:

 

The loco looks great. I can only see the chassis for the Manor/Grange/Hall on the shop list  is there one for a castle or has the other been adapted?

Don

 

That's the one Don - same driving wheel axle spacing, although Keith has integrated parts of the Farish Castle chassis.

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As Steve said, the Castle chassis is a cut & shut job with the front and rear of the Farish chassis. A couple of photos show the method. The Farish brake gear was also persuaded to fit the 2mm Assoc chassis.

Keith

castle chassis 2.JPG

castle_chassis.JPG

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Thank you for the extra information. I hadn't given a thought to the wheelbase being the same. So I assume Saints, Stars, Halls, Granges, Manors and Castles all share the same wheelbase for the coupled wheels. I saw them all at Reading when a lad although I think the Manor was acting as Station pilot rather than on a train. 

 

Don

 

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4 hours ago, keitharmes said:

As Steve said, the Castle chassis is a cut & shut job with the front and rear of the Farish chassis. A couple of photos show the method. The Farish brake gear was also persuaded to fit the 2mm Assoc chassis.

Keith

castle chassis 2.JPG

castle_chassis.JPG

 

Excellent views describing the chassis modifications. Thank you, Keith. Did you adjust the crank throw on the wheels in a similar manner to the Hall completed, I think for the same destination, previously? 

 

Splasher (and other body) modifications were also mentioned. Can I persuade you to divulge further please? A Castle is one of the things on my workbench waiting for attention. 

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22 hours ago, -missy- said:

Hi.

This is now the point of no return. Once the cranks are on I can no longer take the chassis apart due to the design (mainly me taking a slightly easier route on the design). Happy with the results so far though.

J.

20200102_165633.jpg


What is the prototype? 

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As Ian Morgan said, my castle chassis mods look like they have violated the Farish warranty. If that's the case, then the body mods have finished it off! (photo from my own Castle)

IMG_1582.JPG

IMG_1602.JPG

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3 hours ago, garethashenden said:


What is the prototype? 

 

Hi Gareth.

Its a freelance sort of thing. It started out as a whitemetal kit of a German prototype but I chopped it around a bit. The original 'home-brew' chassis was 6.5mm gauge so I needed something to work on 4mm gauge track.

 

painted-front-view.jpg

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11 hours ago, keitharmes said:

As Steve said, the Castle chassis is a cut & shut job with the front and rear of the Farish chassis. A couple of photos show the method. The Farish brake gear was also persuaded to fit the 2mm Assoc chassis.

 

Thanks Steve and Keith.

 

Although I seem to have had brain fade when asking the question yesterday (I'd already read that it was using the milled chassis) I'm still curious about the oft quoted challenge with the front pair of driving axles on Castles and other big wheeled GW 4-6-0s. How does it all fit in? My understanding is that scale wheelbase, scale tread diameter, Association flanges and a motion bracket won't all fit - something has to give. Having looked closely at the real thing in the shed at Didcot there ain't a lot of room to spare in that area.

 

Regards, Andy

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Hi Andy,

With 13mm wheels, yes, they are underscale, which allows for clearance between the flanges. If you made correct diameter wheels then you have to  move axles or stretch the wheelbase. In my opinion this leads to all sorts of problems with boiler length, splasher position, etc. (As has been said many times by Jim Watt). In any case, what is the correct wheel diameter. With the allowable reduction of tyre diameter before replacement, a Castle could be running on 6' 7" wheels instead of 6' 8 1/2". In this case, I fixed the motion bracket to the chassis at the top and took it down between the treads.

 

In answer to the earlier question about crank pin position, the Castles and Stars had 26" piston stroke, so the 2mm Assoc 2mm crank throw is not far off correct. Its the larger 2 cylinder engines that have 30" piston stroke, needing a 2.5mm crank throw.  Worth doing in that case, because it gives the characteristic sweeping coupling and con rod action.

Keith

 

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27 minutes ago, keitharmes said:

....... (As has been said many times by Jim Watt)...... 

I'm currently having horrendous problems with clearances between wheels and splashers on my Jubilee pug. Hence the lack of updates on that topic. I'm beginning to wish I had gone for 4'3" rather than scale 4'6" wheels. :(

 

Jim 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, keitharmes said:

Hi Andy,

With 13mm wheels, yes, they are underscale, which allows for clearance between the flanges. If you made correct diameter wheels then you have to  move axles or stretch the wheelbase. In my opinion this leads to all sorts of problems with boiler length, splasher position, etc. (As has been said many times by Jim Watt). In any case, what is the correct wheel diameter. With the allowable reduction of tyre diameter before replacement, a Castle could be running on 6' 7" wheels instead of 6' 8 1/2". In this case, I fixed the motion bracket to the chassis at the top and took it down between the treads.

 

In answer to the earlier question about crank pin position, the Castles and Stars had 26" piston stroke, so the 2mm Assoc 2mm crank throw is not far off correct. Its the larger 2 cylinder engines that have 30" piston stroke, needing a 2.5mm crank throw.  Worth doing in that case, because it gives the characteristic sweeping coupling and con rod action.

Keith

 

 

So what is the reason for rebulding the splashers - too big, too wide or not  in the right position?

 

I have a number of Castle bodies that I will add chassis of etched/milled form to, and if I follow your splasher changes I think I may 3D-print replacements.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs

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Hi Chris,

The reason for replacing the splashers is twofold. Firstly, they are about the right height, but too large a radius. The pic of my modified Castle facing Steve's unmodified shows it well. The other reason is to move the front and the OS rear splashers further in by 1mm. The two mods together make a big difference to the appearance and feel. The second pic shows Steve's loco running in on Chipping Norton and shows it well the seen from that angle.

I wanted to paint and line the splashers after all the fitting and gluing. So I painted and lined a self adhesive label, cut it up and applied them last. Incidentally, I bought black vinyl labels from ebay, which means any accidentally showing edge is black, not white, and cleaner edged.

Keith

IMG_1646.JPG

IMG_1719.JPG

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21 hours ago, -missy- said:

 

Hi Gareth.

Its a freelance sort of thing. It started out as a whitemetal kit of a German prototype but I chopped it around a bit. The original 'home-brew' chassis was 6.5mm gauge so I needed something to work on 4mm gauge track.

 

painted-front-view.jpg


It looks very nice, I’m enjoying the build.

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5 hours ago, keitharmes said:

Hi Chris,

The reason for replacing the splashers is twofold. Firstly, they are about the right height, but too large a radius. The pic of my modified Castle facing Steve's unmodified shows it well. The other reason is to move the front and the OS rear splashers further in by 1mm. The two mods together make a big difference to the appearance and feel. The second pic shows Steve's loco running in on Chipping Norton and shows it well the seen from that angle.

I wanted to paint and line the splashers after all the fitting and gluing. So I painted and lined a self adhesive label, cut it up and applied them last. Incidentally, I bought black vinyl labels from ebay, which means any accidentally showing edge is black, not white, and cleaner edged.

Keith

IMG_1646.JPG

IMG_1719.JPG

The unmodified engine looks like it’s wearing an ill-fitting suit.   
 

Tim

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On 04/01/2020 at 13:17, keitharmes said:

Hi Chris,

The reason for replacing the splashers is twofold. Firstly, they are about the right height, but too large a radius. The pic of my modified Castle facing Steve's unmodified shows it well. The other reason is to move the front and the OS rear splashers further in by 1mm. The two mods together make a big difference to the appearance and feel. The second pic shows Steve's loco running in on Chipping Norton and shows it well the seen from that angle.

I wanted to paint and line the splashers after all the fitting and gluing. So I painted and lined a self adhesive label, cut it up and applied them last. Incidentally, I bought black vinyl labels from ebay, which means any accidentally showing edge is black, not white, and cleaner edged.

Keith

IMG_1646.JPG

IMG_1719.JPG

 

A Castle at Chipping Norton? I wonder if that ever happened.

 

Chris

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As the Castle was coded Red for route availability and the Chipping Norton route was coded Blue, I hope not! Interestingly, the route did see 28XX 2-8-0s, but the additional driving axle in place of a bogie axle reduced the axleload  just enough to make it Blue, despite it being essentially the same engine as the Halls and Saints. The main problem in the route was the spindly metal viaducts at Hook Norton.

 

Keith

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