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nick_bastable

Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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2 hours ago, garethashenden said:

I'd like some help redesigning this tender. 

Hi Gareth,

The pivoting platform looks to be above the tops of the side frames near the pivot point, so maybe you could add a cross piece to this, and have one fixing screw either side of the motor rather than a single screw on the centre line? 

There appears to be plenty of room in the sides of the tender for this, and you could slide the motor as far back as you like. You'd just need to make sure the screws were positioned so you could access them between the rear pair of wheels.

Nick.

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Thanks Nick, I’ll try that. I think I’ll put the screws between the bogies, otherwise they would fowl on the bogie sideframes. Should be able to keep them out of sight. 

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2 hours ago, Alex Duckworth said:

The first of my Harton engines, No 10.

Alex.

That's amazing Alex.

How are you planning on motorising it?

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11 hours ago, -missy- said:

That's amazing Alex.

How are you planning on motorising it?

 

Hello Julia, thanks. I've got an idea for a chassis that has a 6mm motor driving one axle with a gear train driving the other. I think that it should all fit in and leave enough room for a DCC chip, and I intend to use the same chassis with a little lengthening and a larger motor for the other two engines (nos. 13 and 15).

 

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On 21/01/2020 at 18:45, Alex Duckworth said:

The first of my Harton engines, No 10.

 

Alex.

You do like your North-Eastern electrics, don't you, Alex? Lovely work as usual (I presume it's a shot-down Judith Edge etch) and looking forward to the rest of them. 

 

Since my office is on the site of Harton Staithes I'll be interested to see what you're going to run it/them on...

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2 hours ago, chrisveitch said:

You do like your North-Eastern electrics, don't you, Alex? Lovely work as usual (I presume it's a shot-down Judith Edge etch) and looking forward to the rest of them. 

 

Since my office is on the site of Harton Staithes I'll be interested to see what you're going to run it/them on...

 

Hello Chris - I do like them, they are so wonderfully ugly and businesslike. It is one of Mike's 2mm etches, excellent as usual, hopefully nos. 13 and 15 will be as enjoyable to build. I'm currently working on a small layout that whilst not being an exact reproduction of the Harton system will (I hope) be representative of parts of it, including the curved incline up to the headshunt then to the staithes. I've got a baseboard and Keith Armes has built me some super turnouts (I don't like making track, hence I'm not very good at it) so I'm well on the way.

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1 hour ago, Hendreladis said:

I had a Terrier chassis that I had built a few years ago. After finding a Judith Edge J63 in the gloat box I attempted a quickie caricature. It'll suffice as a colliery shunter to back up the Peckett.

 

Didn't like the miserable little boiler on the J63 so jacked things up to allow space for a bit more lead. Despite the diminutive size it is heavier than a Farish pannier running on an association underframe.

 

While not strictly correct it would be possible to use the association Terrier kit, 7mm wheels  and a 7mm motor as basis for a proper J63 as wb is correct. The motor sits very low in the body.

 

If I can now locate the rest of the terrier chassis bits I'll finish off the brakegear . . .   

IMG_20200123_200827.jpg

IMG_20200123_200933.jpg

IMG_20200123_200925.jpg

IMG_20200123_201007.jpg

Interesting locomotives! How on earth did you make kits like these so small?

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3 hours ago, Hendreladis said:

I had a Terrier chassis that I had built a few years ago. After finding a Judith Edge J63 in the gloat box I attempted a quickie caricature...

 

 

Did you turn the buffers yourself or  buy them? If the latter I would you divulge where from please: I need some similar part tapered  buffers for a current project. 

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Very nice work, I like the industrialised J63. The Hunslet buffers should be parallel though, not tapered.

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9 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

 

Did you turn the buffers yourself or  buy them? If the latter I would you divulge where from please: I need some similar part tapered  buffers for a current project. 

 

Like these?

 

s3-504.jpg

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35 minutes ago, Hendreladis said:

Thirty minutes of gloat box rummaging confirms it.

 

They were near the top then? :rolleyes:

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12 hours ago, Yorkshire Square said:

 

They were near the top then? :rolleyes:

 

The clue is in the name. My 'gloat' cabinet is all carefully sorted so I can see everything that is in there...

 

Chris

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You've only got one gloat cabinet? And it is well organised? And you can actually find stuff? But that would make you productive. Wish I was able to work in a tidier way. Your approach sounds brilliant.

 

Painted the J63 tonight. Another nightmare. Shame I can't re-run 'the horror, the horror' again. Now I remember why I never finish things . . . 

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A (belated) Happy New Year to you all.

This is technically what is on my 2mm Workbench, but that all depends on how the sentence is parsed.

 

 

8B257330-C384-45A6-B3A9-3017C0D9A08E.jpeg.7794c30c8c3806ea3284f1e24833fcb9.jpeg

It is my version of Steve Dacosta's excellent 3D printed 43xx on the Dapol Grange chassis, with something else.

ECABE077-E1EB-439A-8818-F1F2132FADCB.jpeg.2d92befe0ea8148faf550b02a77fbe8e.jpeg

Here is a bit more context

AA0EA9D6-4245-4DB0-A9E2-7D010E1FEF4E.jpeg.8b30ae0b4a5d77145c9a56c745bfba60.jpeg
And now the Full Monty - the Lego Technic Liebherr 9800 face shovel. This was a Christmas present to myself and was great fun to build. The original looks like a block of flats on caterpillar tracks,  the model is also huge. It is powered by seven motors and controlled by Bluetooth from iPhone or Android devices. All very impressive and a change from 2mm stuff.

Best wishes,

John

 

 

Edited by JohnBS
Extra info
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That is serious Lego, that is!!

 

Two of my grandchildren (5 & 9) are into Lego in a big way, but not that big!!

 

Jim

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Your work gave me confidence that I may be able to achieve something similar with my little engine although in a slightly bigger track gauge (5 mm).

 

The rear two axles will drive the front two by coupling rods. I wonder if this is feasible.

 

 

side_motor_in_boiler.jpg

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Looks like a good start Valentin.

 

I personally would just power a single set of wheels though. The coupling rods should easily do the rest.

 

Julia :)

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Two observations.

1) That will only give you a reduction of 14:1 (14:1 worm x 17:20 x 20:17) if I am reading it correctly.  It would be better if you swapped the 17t gear onto the worm shaft with the 20t as the idler.  That would give you 14:1 x 20:17 X 1(20:20), c16.5:1.

2) There doesn't appear to be much clearance between the wormwheel and the idler gear shaft muff, especially if what you have drawn is the idler gear shaft. 

One way round that would be to put the 17t on the wormwheel shaft and use a slightly larger idler gear, though that then negates some of the reduction if 20t is the largest you can put on the axles as the extra reduction you would get here would be cancelled out by an increase in rotation speed between this larger idler and the 20t's on the axles.  It would also push the worm slightly further back.

 

Jim

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I forgot to mention that this is not a "split-chassis" design, so no muffs - the brass gears are soldered directly to the steel axles. All axles are 1.5 mm in diameter apart from the one supporting the worm gear which is 2 mm. The reduction is 16.5:1 and the wheels are 5 mm in diameter.

 

I came up with another arrangement, which gives an overall reduction of just over 26:1. :rolleyes: I'm not sure if this is a better design though. Another option to further increase the overall reduction would be to use pulleys.

 

 

boiler-gears-x.jpg

Edited by Valentin

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