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Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
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21 hours ago, Bryn said:

20210825_170316.jpg.1392e1f3eec59ae3fbcc3eeb0ef069b1.jpg

This time a repaint of a Stephen Harris 21T mineral which I built 11 years ago. I was wasn't happy with the old Maskol rust technique it was redone with chipping fluid and oil paints.

 

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And here are my 3 recent projects in an arty shot on Colwyn Bay Goods.

Thats very good 

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Hi Missy

The boats are likely to be diesel powered and for inshore operation. They could be crabbers so a winch on the side and a shelf near to rest pots on when emptying. A bucket full of fish for rebaiting the pots and a few spare pots, probably rectangular at the period modelled. The boats could also be used for long lining, so buckets of baited lines, a small winch and lots of ice in a big insulated box near the deck hatch.

Hoes this helps

Tony

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On 28/08/2021 at 13:05, technohand said:

Hi Missy

The boats are likely to be diesel powered and for inshore operation. They could be crabbers so a winch on the side and a shelf near to rest pots on when emptying. A bucket full of fish for rebaiting the pots and a few spare pots, probably rectangular at the period modelled. The boats could also be used for long lining, so buckets of baited lines, a small winch and lots of ice in a big insulated box near the deck hatch.

Hoes this helps

Tony

 

Hi Tony.

 

Thank you very much, that is really useful information. Until I work out what exactly the boats are I think I will keep them deliberately vague for now.

 

Missy.

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5 hours ago, Nig H said:

Here are a few more pics of my LNWR 19" Goods. Almost all soldering done now, just a front coupling to do. Then smokebox, chimney and dome to attach. At the moment the running is far from satisfactory so that is the next thing to sort out.

 

IMG_1940.JPG.90a53850f5608e033786f1ab848a4f7b.JPG

 

 

IMG_1941.JPG.7debc6ce73f5f4c00364dc56d2cd1204.JPG

 

 

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Nig H

This is Looking really good Nigel

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At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it.

The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame.

When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website.

 

1259157007_30-1MilledGearboxjpg.jpg.26ef03a297de4ae082e9361d45c7237f.jpg

 

Here I'm using a 1/8" drill bit so I can slip a skew-cut gear in and out for testing the mesh... in this instance a not-quite-perfect gear from a batch I recently made. The perfect ones were all delivered to the shop earlier this week...

 

1009831700_30TSkewGears.jpg.a5a10c6ce589e4468e5517f928f79013.jpg

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1 hour ago, Nick Mitchell said:

At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it.

The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame.

When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website.

 

1259157007_30-1MilledGearboxjpg.jpg.26ef03a297de4ae082e9361d45c7237f.jpg

 

Here I'm using a 1/8" drill bit so I can slip a skew-cut gear in and out for testing the mesh... in this instance a not-quite-perfect gear from a batch I recently made. The perfect ones were all delivered to the shop earlier this week...

 

1009831700_30TSkewGears.jpg.a5a10c6ce589e4468e5517f928f79013.jpg


Many thanks for this Nick, and those who are un-named who may have worked on this project.

 

Am I correct in thinking that with this I couldn’t drive an additional gear? For instance if this apparatus won’t fit inside the firebox to drive the main axle. 
 

Cheers!

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10 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said:

At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it.

The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame.

When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website.

 

Looks like an excellent development, and the instructions are very well produced. One aspect that puzzled me before I read them was how the mounting point would be insulated but the instructions mentioned the 14BA sleeves (3-159) which I'd never noticed before. I don't have a use for them at the moment, but may well acquire some in the anticipation of finding one...

 

Well done to Nick and the Product team again!

 

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10 hours ago, A. Bastow said:


Many thanks for this Nick, and those who are un-named who may have worked on this project.

 

Am I correct in thinking that with this I couldn’t drive an additional gear? For instance if this apparatus won’t fit inside the firebox to drive the main axle. 
 

Cheers!

Hello Adam,

 

Yes that's right. This will provide a single 30:1 ratio with the worm wheel on the driving wheel axle muff.

 

Nigel Hunt

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On 25/09/2021 at 22:02, Nick Mitchell said:

At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it.

The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame.

When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website.

 

1259157007_30-1MilledGearboxjpg.jpg.26ef03a297de4ae082e9361d45c7237f.jpg

 

Here I'm using a 1/8" drill bit so I can slip a skew-cut gear in and out for testing the mesh... in this instance a not-quite-perfect gear from a batch I recently made. The perfect ones were all delivered to the shop earlier this week...

 

1009831700_30TSkewGears.jpg.a5a10c6ce589e4468e5517f928f79013.jpg

That is really excellent and something I suggested many decades ago. Well done all!

 

Tim

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On 25/09/2021 at 23:59, A. Bastow said:


Many thanks for this Nick, and those who are un-named who may have worked on this project.

 

Am I correct in thinking that with this I couldn’t drive an additional gear? For instance if this apparatus won’t fit inside the firebox to drive the main axle. 
 

Cheers!

 

The plan is to introduce a 38:1 single reduction next and then a 30:1 with secondary reduction. The latter will need a bit more work as our standard gears will be too wide for the block and not leave enough meat for the muffs to run in.

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The new gearbox looks very good, but ...

 

If I've understood correctly, the driven axle relies on the plastic muff revolving in holes in the brass block. My first thought is that it won't last very very long on a layout like Copenhagen Fields, or am I being overly pessimistic?

 

David

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26 minutes ago, Kylestrome said:

The new gearbox looks very good, but ...

 

If I've understood correctly, the driven axle relies on the plastic muff revolving in holes in the brass block. My first thought is that it won't last very very long on a layout like Copenhagen Fields, or am I being overly pessimistic?

 

David

 

Hi David

 

I don't think any locos last long on CF, but they have top secret agents building and rebuilding their locos to highly classified specs. ;)

 

The axle muffs are the same material as the worms which mesh, with a much smaller surface area, with the brass gear wheel. They won't last forever, but ought to be robust enough for those of us with small or medium sized layouts. We will see...

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39 minutes ago, Kylestrome said:

The new gearbox looks very good, but ...

 

If I've understood correctly, the driven axle relies on the plastic muff revolving in holes in the brass block. My first thought is that it won't last very very long on a layout like Copenhagen Fields, or am I being overly pessimistic?

 

David

 

I can understand the concern but if the gearbox is installed with a bit of thought about future maintenance, being able remove it would make the task of having to replace the axle muff fairly easy. I think there has to be a trade off between the simplicity and ease of use against the potential for wear.

 

I can't think of an easy way to remove the metal to plastic rubbing contact area without making it more complex to produce the components, then for the user to build and install it.

 

It would be interesting to see just how long one would last on Copenhagen Fields, which seems to me to be the ultimate destruction testing facility for mechanisms. It is rather like Retford in EM. A proper "loco killer".

 

 

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5 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

I can't think of an easy way to remove the metal to plastic rubbing contact area without making it more complex to produce the components, then for the user to build and install it.

 

 

I've a thought - steel tube, O/D to fit gears and gearbox, I/D to fit a thinner muff, such as those used for bogie/tender wheels (2.3mm dia, so with a 3mm O/D tube, that's a wall thickness of 0.35mm, which isn't a silly thing to make).   Does rely on the thin muff being concentric with its centre, which needs checking (historically, some 2mm shop muffs are concentric inner to outer, some are not because it doesn't matter in their original intended use).  

 

That said, the plastic used for the muffs will probably outlast most locos running times.   Only those with large layouts run locos for any significant distances.   

 

- Nigel

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Absolutely no problem with that gearbox design. The Baldwin 2-6-0 on CF has that design with the rear driven axle having an acetal muff-mounted gear box. That loco had a gear box re-engineering on a worn out brass/steel bearing about 50 miles ago, the final drive was fine.   The loco has probably done well in excess of 200 miles now over 25 years of running.  You would obviously need to make sure there were no rough edges to wear the plastic. 

Tim

Edited by CF MRC
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