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Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
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Not heard of this supplier before. Is there a web site?

 

Mark A

I'll send you a list when I get home Mark, if you are interested.

Gratifying to see that someone else has been able to build it!

Jim

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Gratifying to see that someone else has been able to build it!

 

I did manage to mix up the outer laminations on the chassis and didn't realise until late on. At this stage I decided to drill the solebar for the brake lever rather than try to reassemble small parts that had their handles and tabs removed.

 

Should there be a hanger for the brake cross shaft on both sides of the vehicle when there is only one brake shoe? I've resisted filing it off for now. I've just realised I haven't fitted the parts for attaching a horse - sorry!

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I did manage to mix up the outer laminations on the chassis and didn't realise until late on. At this stage I decided to drill the solebar for the brake lever rather than try to reassemble small parts that had their handles and tabs removed.

 

Should there be a hanger for the brake cross shaft on both sides of the vehicle when there is only one brake shoe? I've resisted filing it off for now. I've just realised I haven't fitted the parts for attaching a horse - sorry!

No, Richard, the brake hanger is on one side only. A simple direct connection between the lever and the brake block hanger. Nothing at all on the other side. Do you feel that I should have made that clearer in the instructions?

Jim

Edited by Caley Jim
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Caledonian 2 plank wagon from Buchanan Kits.

 

attachicon.gifWP_20150125_001_processed.jpg

 

Knocked this together yesterday and just fitted buffers this morning. The etch is well thought out with some useful assembly aids built in.

Hi Rich,

 

Could I ask you what kind of track your wonderful wagon is sat on?, I am thinking of dabbling in the world of 2mm or N gauge modeling as a side project to my 7mm modeling :)

 

Many Thanks

 

Phill  :locomotive:

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Caledonian 2 plank wagon from Buchanan Kits.

 

attachicon.gifWP_20150125_001_processed.jpg

 

Knocked this together yesterday and just fitted buffers this morning. The etch is well thought out with some useful assembly aids built in.

 

 

Very nice, different and interesting as well, the outside w-irons and just one brake block. An early design I take it, or were outside w-irons common on CR stock?

 

Izzy

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No, Richard, the brake hanger is on one side only. A simple direct connection between the lever and the brake block hanger. Nothing at all on the other side. Do you feel that I should have made that clearer in the instructions?

 

I think I should have read the instructions more than once and referred to them during building - rather than reading once, then losing the email again,  and building based on what I could remember and 'reading' the etch from a design perspective.

 

Could I ask you what kind of track your wonderful wagon is sat on?, I am thinking of dabbling in the world of 2mm or N gauge modeling as a side project to my 7mm modeling :)

 

It's Easitrac, like Ian said. Sleeper spacing is based on measurements for 44'6" rail lengths from GWR Switch and Crossing Practice.

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Very nice, different and interesting as well, the outside w-irons and just one brake block. An early design I take it, or were outside w-irons common on CR stock?

 

Hopefully Jim of Caley interests and designer of the kit can answer your question. I'm reasonably sure I don't have any books with CR wagon details in.

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Very nice, different and interesting as well, the outside w-irons and just one brake block. An early design I take it, or were outside w-irons common on CR stock?

 

Izzy

It's an early, pre-diagram book, wagon, based on a Ken Werrett drawing. Outside W-hangers were common until around the early 1880's.

Jim

Edited by Caley Jim
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I think I should have read the instructions more than once and referred to them during building - rather than reading once, then losing the email again,  and building based on what I could remember and 'reading' the etch from a design perspective.

Richard, I've had a closer look at your build of the wagon and I notice a few other things you've missed as a result of not having the instructions.

1) The tops of the corner plates should be trimmed flush with the tops of the wagon sides.  Essentially, you've left part of the tags still attached.  This one had me worried at first as i thought the corner plates were located too high and i couldn't figure out how that could have happened!

2)  You haven't folded down the axlebox lids before you removed their 'handles'.  They should slope down from the back at 45°.  Should be easy to fix provided you haven't soldered them to the W-hangers!

3)  Once you've folded down the lids, you can then bend the top of the spring buckle back over the top of the spring.

This photo of a finished example should give you the idea.   Usual apologies for the crap lettering! :senile:

post-25077-0-40275200-1422714875.jpg

HTH.

Jim

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Here are some pics of my L & Y saddle tank, now weathered and the running sorted out reasonably well. To improve pickup, I used Jerry Clifford's idea of using thin wire (41 swg phos. bronze) as wipers bearing down on the top of the driving wheel treads. I've applied this to the middle and rear drivers and it definitely improved the running. Thanks for the idea, Jerry.

 

post-12813-0-90325400-1422979974_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-12813-0-04945200-1422980001_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-12813-0-83161100-1422980072_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

One thing I forgot to do was add coal rails to the bunker. I'll have to see if I can find something suitable in the bits box. Looking at these close up pics, I think I might try to hide the gears by extending the underside of the boiler backwards a few millimetres.

 

Nig H

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While I had my camera out for the saddle tank, I thought I'd post a couple of pics of Rebuilt Royal Scot 46127 'Old Contemptibles', having recently finally applied the nameplates. The loco is made from a Farish body on an etched finescale chassis.

 

 

post-12813-0-82580900-1422980697_thumb.jpg

 

post-12813-0-76898900-1422980745_thumb.jpg

 

post-12813-0-34200100-1422980774_thumb.jpg

 

Looks like there is some very heavy coal in the front of the tender!

 

Nig H

 

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As usual Nig, beautiful work!

 

On my workbench the last few days have been a couple of portable buildings for the top of the embankment at Ropley.

 

post-1467-0-73274000-1423242224_thumb.jpg

 

All scratch built from various bits of plastic sheet & strip and still a few little details to add. 

 

Tom 

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I got this salmon wagon out to make so to brake up making mineral after mineral wagon. But now its nealy done I want some more to go with it.

 

 

But could anyone suggest some suitable buffers to finish it. From what I can make out the prototypes had a type of self contained buffer but with a novel head. But I can only find self contained with round heads or some MK1 novel head buffers.

 

Any thoughs would be appreacheated

post-12103-0-34579100-1423598692_thumb.jpg

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As usual Nig, beautiful work!

 

On my workbench the last few days have been a couple of portable buildings for the top of the embankment at Ropley.

 

attachicon.gifCU0J1806.jpg

 

All scratch built from various bits of plastic sheet & strip and still a few little details to add. 

 

Tom 

 

Superb work Tom. Your eye for detail is amazing. Maybe a blog entry on how you achieved the weathering effects?

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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Last few weeks has seen little progress on anything running apart from a Hornby Belle shuttling away ( simple things please simple what ever :scratchhead:)

 

I have however been diverted with building buildings both for my layout and the clubs shunting plank  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1024/entry-15321-urban-planning/ having built a row of cottages Martin volunteered me to produce another row  :banghead:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scalescenes mucked about with a bit  with the railing from Peedie models  impressive service ordered Wednesday evening delivery Friday  from the Orkneys ( takes a week for a local letter to be delivered sometimes)

 

 

 

 

Edited by nick_bastable
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I'm back to signals again at the moment. I was becoming increasingly unhappy with the original up starter I made for Ropley, mainly in respect of it's durability under exhibition conditions, so a few days ago I started a replacement. This time I focused on producing a more robust operating wire mechanism, complete with stops to prevent any damage from excessive movement. Today I hooked it up to the servo and IMP servo driver to see if it would  work:

 

 

 

This signal has a few cosmetic improvements to it also, such as finer operating wire, ground signal platform and more robust fixings for the LED lamp wiring. All in all it's a significant improvement over the first attempt! 

 

Tom. 

 

Edited to replace shaky video with youtube "stabilised" video.

Edited by TomE
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More signal work the last week or so. The second up starter has been finished and connected up and is just waiting for the shunt signal adding to the platform and the base finishing off. A lighting circuit has been added and is using a 9V battery which will suffice for the time being. 

 

post-1467-0-26252700-1426694384_thumb.jpg

 

Some adjustment is needed to the lenses of the far signal to reduce the amount of light coming through to match the other. The effect is subtle but then so is the real thing!

 

Tom. 

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Nice result Tom. It is funny but I dont have a clear recollection of how bright the semaphore lights were in daylight. At night yes I can remember looking out the window to see if the board was off. But daytime I would just see the arm and take no note of how bright it was.

 

A new arrival on my workbench today a test kit for a new 2mm turnout where the chairs peg into holes in the base. This is a planned Association product.

Don

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