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nick_bastable

Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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I am interested to see signals being built. I am looking to get the 2mm Association Handbook revived over the next year or so, and need some people to make contributions to the signals chapter - all those whose work is in the last (4th) edition are now dead.

 

I wrote up my ground signal for the challenge, and also for the magazine (I think I sent this to Mick - I'll have to check). The only proper signal I might have to build for Littlemore is a starter or fixed distant.

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Newton Abbot?

 

Yes - the cover of the Kevin Robertson book on WR signals (more on boxes than signals though).

 

I am interested to see signals being built. I am looking to get the 2mm Association Handbook revived over the next year or so, and need some people to make contributions to the signals chapter - all those whose work is in the last (4th) edition are now dead.

 

Oh dear. Is it bad for your health then? :O

 

Seriously, I'd be happy to help. Are we going back to the handbook approach instead of continuing with more single topic books like 'Track'?

 

Regards, Andy

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Oh dear. Is it bad for your health then? https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_shok.gif

 

Seriously, I'd be happy to help. Are we going back to the handbook approach instead of continuing with more single topic books like 'Track'?

 

Regards, Andy

 

No, just no-one seems to have built any signals for ages. What was in the fourth edition (1992) was the same as in the first edition (1977) and I think the signals featured had been built well before that.

 

We are going back to the handbook approach as the chances of getting a full set of single topic books is as likely as everyone on here building their own Bournemouth Belle. It is a decade since we proposed doing an extensive set of manuals, and so far we have managed just the one. If we are very lucky, we might get one or two more tomes during my lifetime, although not from Geoff Jones - 'never again' is his response. A few people have offered to do a chapter each for the handbook, which is more realistic.

 

Chris

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Hi Chris.

 

I'd be happy to help if I can, but I fear I don't really know much more than the basics. I'm very much modelling (copying!) what I see in the real location.

 

Tom.

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2nd post done!


post-1467-0-84683000-1357765597.jpg

 

Tom.

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Hi Chris.

 

I'd be happy to help if I can, but I fear I don't really know much more than the basics. I'm very much modelling (copying!) what I see in the real location.

 

Tom.

 

Well, we need people to describe the basics. With one chapter per topic, you don't get as deep into the details as the Track book does. And even if you are not doing the writing, we need people's models to feature in descriptions and pictures. Some of the signals featured in the old handbook would still find a place today, if only we could locate them to be re-photographed. But some are just gone.

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The value is in the detail, which is what made the track book so good.

Perhaps the prototype part could be produced in conjunction with, say, scalefour to split the load.  Each could then produce the scale-specific parts.

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The value is in the detail, which is what made the track book so good.

Perhaps the prototype part could be produced in conjunction with, say, scalefour to split the load.  Each could then produce the scale-specific parts.

 

I don't think we're discussing an in depth tome like the track book and Chris' reply supports this. There is already a book from Wild Swan which covers scratch building semaphore signals. The book Chris is trying to get updated is the 2mm handbook, which covers ideas and techniques pertinent or specific to 2mm modelling.

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I don't think we're discussing an in depth tome like the track book and Chris' reply supports this. There is already a book from Wild Swan which covers scratch building semaphore signals. The book Chris is trying to get updated is the 2mm handbook, which covers ideas and techniques pertinent or specific to 2mm modelling.

I appreciate that.  However the chapter in the handbook is very superficial at only 14 pages and the MSE instructions are quite daunting.  Having said that, it will be quite some time before I worry about signals - my shop orders for my first track and wagon haven't arrived yet.

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Okay it's not my workbench but here is what was on my workbench test running light engine on Brafferton earlier today.

 

post-8031-0-34583400-1358030055_thumb.jpg

 

It's not finished by any means but the chassis is running okay. 

 

To make up for that here is a picture of my workspace

 

post-8031-0-74670600-1358030063_thumb.jpg

 

The floor isn't in the picture but you can't really see much of that if I had pointed the lens downwards.

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The vertically challenged Down Inner Home is now health and safety compliant:


post-1467-0-79089800-1358085563.jpg

 

I gave it a quick blast of primer so show up any areas that might need attention, but I still have to fit the LED to the outer post once a fresh shipment arrives.

 

Tom.

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The vertically challenged Down Inner Home is now health and safety compliant

Those handrails are very neat (as is the whole signal). Any pointers on how to get them all straight/square/parallel? - The horizontal bits for St Ruth's departure starter are coming up soon on my to do list... might have been done already if I didn't keep putting it off.

 

Regards, Andy

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Thanks Andy! The railing was all done by eye to be honest. You have a little time after soldering the verticals in place to adjust them slightly if needed, but making sure they are all the same length is probably the most important thing before you add the horizontal rail.

 

Tom.

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Just back from a very enjoyable weekend in St Albans. Saturday night was spent with well known 2mm modeller CF MRC and before dinner we went out to see what was on his 2mm workbench. We found this beauty - looks to me like somebody has lost their scale ruler!!

 

post-1074-0-92183900-1358104802_thumb.jpg

 

Jerry

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I've been taking a break from layout construction this weekend and inspired by Pixies workbench have taken to the paints and weathered a new GF BK and some mineral trucks

post-10866-0-23320900-1358106529_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-09155100-1358106548_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Andy! The railing was all done by eye to be honest. You have a little time after soldering the verticals in place to adjust them slightly if needed, but making sure they are all the same length is probably the most important thing before you add the horizontal rail.

I stopped procrastinating and got on with the railings this evening. Not quite as neat as yours though.

 

post-9623-0-71557900-1358111920_thumb.jpg

 

The horizontal rail was done in two 'L' shaped pieces and I used a card spacer to get the height consistent initially.

 

Cutting and joining the wires at the corner where 3 wires meet was a right pain. In the end I used a slitting disc to trim the wires and was constantly switching between the slitting disc and the soldering iron.

 

Sometimes you think that a job is going to be a nightmare... and then prove yourself correct. Anyway... it's done now... until the next bracket signal.

 

Just a few plastic bits to stick on now, a bit of tidying up and then paint it.

 

Regards, Andy

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Hi Andy, looks neat enough to me!

 

Tom.

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I tried my hand at weathering one of the new GF GUV's tonight

post-10866-0-32464500-1358211848_thumb.jpg

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That looks excellent Stuart, whats your method?

 

Tom.

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That looks excellent Stuart, whats your method?

 

Tom.

1. Paint neat 'black' acrylic paint onto a third of the body-side then immediately wipe off paint with as many cotton buds as it takes

2. Repeat for the remaining two thirds, the other side and both ends

3. Paint neat 'frame dirt' with a semi dry brush onto the running gear

4. Paint the roof with black acrylic or if you prefer dry brush, or leave well alone.

 

I used Rail match acrylic paint and 17 cotton buds.

There were no airbrushes used in the weathering of this coach

Edited by StuartM
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Over the Christmas/New Year period I vowed to get a couple of projects finished and not start anything new. With great resolve I just about managed to stick to my task (now ended as I picked up some beautiful etches from Julia at the weekend!) and here are the results.

 

First up is NSLR No. 1 'Holly'. This is a Hudswell Clarke and is based on David Eveleigh's etches. It will be finished in the NSLR standard green  - eventually and is destined for Tucking Mill. 

 

post-1074-0-58407300-1358372785_thumb.jpg

 

Secondly is the 2mm Association 08 kit which I started when I first got it about four or five years ago. It will be finished as D3183 in filthy BR green with wasp stripes. She was a Bristol St Philips loco in the late 60's and I have a couple of nice colour photos of her at Radstock - perfect for my diesel era Highbury.

 

post-1074-0-04473600-1358372802_thumb.jpg

 

I will post some more pictures in the relevant threads in due course, along with a long overdue update to the Bath thread - which will include some of my new toys! I will be running both the above locos at Southampton in a couple of weeks.

 

Jerry 

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I wasn't going to put these up until I got round to updating my Bath thread in the next week or so but I'm so pleased with them that I couldn't resist. At last weekends St Albans show I picked up some etches for the twiddly bits of the  Porte Cochere on the front of Queen Square station which Missy Julia had drawn for me.

This evening I soldered up the basic bits. The fit was perfect and I think the picture speaks for itself. Suffice to say I'm chuffed as anything - many thanks Julia

 

post-1074-0-92878700-1358378106_thumb.jpg

 

Jerry

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The locos and the twiddly bits all look outstanding! Looking forward to Southampton even more now!

 

Tom.

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That looks fantastic Jerry! Having seen the etches, but not being familiar with the prototype, it's really good to see it coming together. Looking forward to seeing more updates.

 

Andy

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