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Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
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The afternoon sunlight makes for some interesting shadows on the tenement block at the rear of the photo and shows off the colours in the Brickwork.

And the simple addition of a platform and some ballast adds to the scene.

All buildings are made from Scalescenes textured sheets and as an exercise in what I could make with them, I think its been a success. Not only do the textured sheets look reasonably realistic, they also come pre painted and cut construction time to a minimum.

unfortunately once again the 1meg upload limit does reduce the sharpness and clarity, but I thought it was worth sharing.

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Hi Jeremy

Any chance of a directly overhead shot of the vacinity of DR137.T8 ?

 

I can't remember whether the switch blade tips (not those at the K)  have to be in line. Templot wasn't around when I did mine and I don't have the Association Track book to refer. I made mine (a 1in10) some 30 years ago on C&L drawings just as an excercise. I never did get round to use it so it's still in the box!

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Hi Jeremy

Any chance of a directly overhead shot of the vacinity of DR137.T8 ?

 

I can't remember whether the switch blade tips (not those at the K)  have to be in line. Templot wasn't around when I did mine and I don't have the Association Track book to refer. I made mine (a 1in10) some 30 years ago on C&L drawings just as an excercise. I never did get round to use it so it's still in the box!

 

The switch blade tips are not entirely the same length for the slip as I had to compromise due to the plastic chairs holding the switch diamonds in place. However the test wagon ran nice and smoothly through. I'll post an overhead shot later.

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Hi.

 

Like Mark, I have been enjoying a bit of 'grass roots' modelling. Cutting up bits of Brass tube and PCB...

 

 

cordon.jpg

Also glued together is a laser cut narrow gauge open wagon body which fits my etched chassis (or the peco ones)...

 

open-wagon-test-build.jpg

M :)

I've been looking for this post for many months now. I knew someone had made their own etched NG chassis, but for the life of me I couldn't remember who or where...

 

Julia, could you possibly elaborate about your chassis? Like what wheelsets are you using in it, and how said wheelsets are mounted. I've had terrible luck with the stock plastic sideframes that come with the Peco N6.5 kits and even when I took someone's suggestion to use Parkside Dundas tophat bearings, those proved useless even after drilling wider holes in the sideframes. The bearings just made the sideframes spread out like wings!

 

I've been endlessly looking for a solution that will allow my Peco wagons to actually roll rather than slide around. In your opinion, how have your chassis preformed thus far?

 

I've been so aggravated with the continued failures when I try to get my Peco wagons to roll that I've just about given up the idea of having any rolling stock on Killashandra.

 

I suppose you could consider this my (very) desperate plea for help.

 

Many Thanks!

 

-Cody Fisher

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I've been looking for this post for many months now. I knew someone had made their own etched NG chassis, but for the life of me I couldn't remember who or where...

Julia, could you possibly elaborate about your chassis?

Whilst still a member here I believe, Julia has now set up her own blog as per below:

 

http://modelopolis.blogspot.co.uk

 

Might be best to contact Julia through that - hope that helps...

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I am a firm believer in steel valve gear and coupling rods looking nice and chunky with decent bearing surfaces - because that is what steam engines have. My next engine a, P2, will obviously have a scratchbuilt chassis and needed fluted coupling rods. I always drill the frames and rods at the same time with them sweated together. The first photo shows the front axle and coupling rod hole being centre-marked with a gramophone needle ground to a cutting three sided pyramid shape, prior to drilling.

 

Second photo shows one side rod sweated to a bit of scrap brass and the rods filed down between the bearings to leave these proud as a boss. The technique of 'draw filing' Is being shown here with the file moving up,and down the rod at ninety degrees to it.

 

Third photo shows a small marking gauge being used to scribe the flutes between the bosses. This was fitted with a gramophone needle ground into a D shape to plough out the required shape. The crank pin bosses automatically limited the length of the flute and the cheek of the gauge was held firmly against the side of the rod, to run parallel between the crank pin holes.

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The coupling rod was then un-soldered from the backing brass and one side of the rods reduced in height towards the flute from both sides as seen in the next two photos.

 

The square bosses were filed to be round in shape where appropriate and then a slotting file was used to refine the slots. These files are wickedly expensive and are used to cut slots in screw & bolt heads in the watchmaking trade.

 

Subsequently the rods were thinned down from the back between the crank pin bosses, so that they would not scrape any paint off the crank boss when rotating.

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The roughly finished rods were then taken through various grades of abrasive and polishing papers to get a reasonable finish.

 

The nearly completed rod can be seen on the wheels, sitting in the unassembled chassis frames. The wheels were hand made by Denys Brownlee many years ago as indeed was the tender chassis. The P2s had very fine coupling rods, as they were made of a fancy steel alloy. Interestingly the new P2, 'Prince of Wales' will have deeper rods. The model rods are 0.9mm deep at their greatest. The final image shows the rear pivot joint indicated by a centre pop mark over the knuckle.

 

Tim

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The roughly finished rods were then taken through various grades of abrasive and polishing papers to get a reasonable finish.

 

The nearly completed rod can be seen on the wheels, sitting in the unassembled chassis frames. The wheels were hand made by Denys Brownlee many years ago as indeed was the tender chassis. The P2s had very fine coupling rods, as they were made of a fancy steel alloy. Interestingly the new P2, 'Prince of Wales' will have deeper rods. The model rods are 0.9mm deep at their greatest. The final image shows the rear pivot joint indicated by a centre pop mark over the knuckle.

 

Tim

 

It's nice to think that we'll have quite a few items on the layout that owe their origin to Denys.

 

Mark

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The roughly finished rods were then taken through various grades of abrasive and polishing papers to get a reasonable finish.

 

The nearly completed rod can be seen on the wheels, sitting in the unassembled chassis frames. The wheels were hand made by Denys Brownlee many years ago as indeed was the tender chassis. The P2s had very fine coupling rods, as they were made of a fancy steel alloy. Interestingly the new P2, 'Prince of Wales' will have deeper rods. The model rods are 0.9mm deep at their greatest. The final image shows the rear pivot joint indicated by a centre pop mark over the knuckle.

 

Tim

 

Doubtless the P2 will be a gem. One noteworthy professional loco builder did remark to me that you tend to build about 1 loco a decade, so I guess we are due one :-)

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
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Doubtless the P2 will be a gem. One noteworthy professional loco builder did remark to me that you tend to build about 1 loco a decade, so I guess we are due one :-)

 

Chris

 

But always worth waiting for.

Don

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I am a firm believer in steel valve gear and coupling rods looking nice and chunky with decent bearing surfaces - because that is what steam engines have.........

I fully agree with this.  Nothing looks quite like steel as steel!  Likewise, nothing looks quite like coal except coal!  :-)

 

I'm wondering how I could make steel rods to match etched n/s chassis?   Perhaps etching the rods in steel from artwork off the same CAD drawing, but that would prohibitively expensive unless you were etching a lot of rods.   Perhaps the best option would be not to etch the bearing holes, and then use the scratchbuilt rods as jigs to drill them as i have always done in the past.

 

BTW, it must be nearly a decade since I built a loco (though I have re-built a couple of chassis), so maybe I'm due one too!!

 

Jim

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I'm wondering how I could make steel rods to match etched n/s chassis?   Perhaps etching the rods in steel from artwork off the same CAD drawing, but that would prohibitively expensive unless you were etching a lot of rods.   Perhaps the best option would be not to etch the bearing holes, and then use the scratchbuilt rods as jigs to drill them as i have always done in the past.

 

Open out the bearing holes, so the bearings have some adjustment, then some form of alignment jig through the rods to position the bearings for soldering.

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