Jump to content
 

Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
 Share

Recommended Posts

Having spent an interesting Saturday at an S Scale Society meeting at the Middleton Railway Trust in Leeds, I came away in a modelling frame of mind and proceeded to finish the 1887 RCH wagon that I'd started earlier in the week. I'd also completed a 1923 RCH wagon and here they pose together:

 

25ow6jl.jpg

 

I also came away with an S Scale 1907 RCH wagon kit:

 

2iie6vq.jpg

 

I must say that while the plastic body moulding is extremely well done, very fine and fits together perfectly, the kit is let down by the etched chassis. I guess we're spoilt in the 2mm Scale Association with our range of well designed etched chassis, but faced with an etch with no locating tabs or slots and the need to make substantial adjustments to make things fit meant that there was more labour than love. One aspect of the etch which was very nice was a four part overlay to make up the brakegear, unfortunately let down by having to be butt soldered to the chassis base with a bit of scrap etch as a support. Anyway I think it has turned out quite nice. Here is an ensemble of RCH wagons through the ages (and scales):

 

szhgdh.jpg

 

In closing I must say that the S Scale crowd were very welcoming and I had a most enjoyable time, nearly as good as a 2mm meeting! :D

  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

 

In closing I must say that the S Scale crowd were very welcoming and I had a most enjoyable time, nearly as good as a 2mm meeting! :D

Phil Copleston took me along to an S Scale meeting a year or so ago and, like you, I found them a very friendly bunch although I didn't come away with a wagon kit!

 

Jerry

Edited by queensquare
Link to post
Share on other sites

In closing I must say that the S Scale crowd were very welcoming and I had a most enjoyable time, nearly as good as a 2mm meeting! :D

 

This different scale idea must be catching. I had a very enjoyable day at Scaleforum yesterday, and came away with a 4mm scale kit for an 1856 Great North of Scotland Railway 1st class carriage, which will get built as a decrepit light railway coach. Not a very original idea on my part as Tim Shackleton did something very similar in MRJ 153.

 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Been hacking about at a Judith Edge Hunslet. The Association/Chris Higgs 03 chassis 'sort of' fits if you hack it about enough.

 

post-15858-0-62355700-1475110486_thumb.jpg

 

post-15858-0-13303300-1475110526_thumb.jpg

 

Bit of a cock up on the ordering front means I have the wrong gears to make it go. I didn't get where I am today without making cock ups on the ordering front.

 

It looks like it'll work though. Maybe.

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Been hacking about at a Judith Edge Hunslet. The Association/Chris Higgs 03 chassis 'sort of' fits if you hack it about enough.

 

More about this build, please! Looks a very interesting and challenging model. I like that.

 

I must have missed the Judith Edge 2mm 15" Hunslet etchings. Are they still available?

Link to post
Share on other sites

More about this build, please! Looks a very interesting and challenging model. I like that.

 

I must have missed the Judith Edge 2mm 15" Hunslet etchings. Are they still available?

 

 

I suggest sending an email to Judith at the email listed on their website. I've always found her to be very helpful.

 

http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/catalogue/judithedge

 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Kyle is in DCC surgery in preparation for appearance at the 2FS AGM...will also bring the mock up of its future addition Thurso which is currently on hold whilst I deal with matters 7mm scale :O

post-3290-0-78830500-1475388795.jpg

post-3290-0-80686600-1475388805.jpg

Edited by bcnPete
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Work on the 2-4-0 for Lambourn goes on a bit more today. Attention has now turned to the inside frames for the tender. Incidentally the tender frames in the photos I have look more like Midland /LMS forms rather than more traditional Dean shape. That's nice! The N Brass tender is a bit over size so I have had to make some compromises. Any way the inside frames carrying the wheels will be separated by spacers made from N/S in a 'L' shape. These are to be soldered to pads of very thin PCB. Nothing new here, it follows the established principles. The little tab of N/S standing up from the rear of the frame with a slot (arrowed in the picture) will be replicated on both frames. The slot is intended to engage with the thin protrusion of the trndr footplate into the rear of the body- (marked with a box on the picture) this will stop the rear of the chassis from falling out. There will be just one screw at the front to hold the chassis to the tender body. I'll put some little blocks in to stop the rear of the chassis from sliding left to right. As the tab is on the inside of the PCB there should be no short circuiting of the frames through the tender body.

post-14910-0-18208100-1475418825.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here the main tender chassis has been erected. The little tabs to hold the rear of the chassis are arrowed. The next task is to find a suitable motor- probably an Association can type or maybe a small coreless one. Then a fixing plate will need to be fashioned out of PCB or something to enable the motor to be screwed in place. I will add secondary current collectors for each axle. You can see the little holes in the frames near the axles for these.

 

post-14910-0-50801200-1475423571.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here the main tender chassis has been erected. The little tabs to hold the rear of the chassis are arrowed. The next task is to find a suitable motor- probably an Association can type or maybe a small coreless one. Then a fixing plate will need to be fashioned out of PCB or something to enable the motor to be screwed in place. I will add secondary current collectors for each axle. You can see the little holes in the frames near the axles for these.

 

attachicon.gifTender chassis main assembly.jpg

On reviewing this post I realised that you can't see the holes for the springs. This may help, overmarked are the positions of the springs to the axles. The rectangular area is where the motor mounting plate will be fitted- above the diameter of the axle muffs.

post-14910-0-71850200-1475424674.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite being a N gauge modeller, I finally joined the 2mm Scale Association and have just received my first order of bits and pieces from the shop. I've spent a happy few hours putting this together...

 

post-943-0-99493300-1475607010_thumb.jpg

 

I doubt I'll win any prizes for my dodgy soldering but I'm quite happy with it. Ok, I'm going to continue being a heathen and fit N gauge wheels but it is a 2mm scale kit! :D

  • Like 15
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here the main tender chassis has been erected. The little tabs to hold the rear of the chassis are arrowed. The next task is to find a suitable motor- probably an Association can type or maybe a small coreless one. Then a fixing plate will need to be fashioned out of PCB or something to enable the motor to be screwed in place. I will add secondary current collectors for each axle. You can see the little holes in the frames near the axles for these.

 

attachicon.gifTender chassis main assembly.jpg

 

Richard,

 

I assume that the slot/tab arrangement to hold the rear of the tender body o the chassis is insulated in some manner to prevent shorting the frames? I thought initially that the slot was in extended PCB pads but in the later photo showing the "Simpson spring" arrangement the extensions look the same material as the chassis frames.

 

Ian

Link to post
Share on other sites

As sometimes happens with me I got a sudden irresistible urge to do some 2mm modelling. I placed an order with Shop 2 for a few mineral wagons and a second Presflo kit. I then decided that if I'm ordering a second kit, I should really build the one I have, preferably before the second one arrives. I'm expecting the order tomorrow or Monday and here is the progress to date. The end supports are not yet attached to the chassis and there are a few details around the chassis still to do, I may make it in time, but probably not quite. Overall it is a lovely kit to build. I really like this scale and should do more in it.

IMG_9124_zps0qilqojc.jpg

Edited by garethashenden
  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

As sometimes happens with me I got a sudden irresistible urge to do some 2mm modelling. I placed an order with Shop 2 for a few mineral wagons and a second Presflo kit. I then decided that if I'm ordering a second kit, I should really build the one I have, preferably before the second one arrives. I'm expecting the order tomorrow or Monday and here is the progress to date. The end supports are not yet attached to the chassis and there are a few details around the chassis still to do, I may make it in time, but probably not quite. Overall it is a lovely kit to build. I really like this scale and should do more in it.

IMG_9124_zps0qilqojc.jpg

Looking good as ever Gareth, yes you should do more!
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Richard,

 

I assume that the slot/tab arrangement to hold the rear of the tender body o the chassis is insulated in some manner to prevent shorting the frames? I thought initially that the slot was in extended PCB pads but in the later photo showing the "Simpson spring" arrangement the extensions look the same material as the chassis frames.

 

Ian

Hi Ian,

The two vertical tabs are indeed insulated. They sit on pads of 10 thou double sided PCB, and so are electrically not connected to the frames. The pictur in post 1410 should clarify.

Richard

Link to post
Share on other sites

Rather involved process of making tapered boilers with belpaire fireboxes. I have a pile of fustrums that are being jigged and milled so that I can assemble them neatly, and most importantly straight along the bottom. The right hand side of the jig allows the straight section to be held accurately and securely for soldering. post-8031-0-88088300-1476468915_thumb.jpg

Edited by richbrummitt
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite being a N gauge modeller, I finally joined the 2mm Scale Association and have just received my first order of bits and pieces from the shop. I've spent a happy few hours putting this together...

 

I doubt I'll win any prizes for my dodgy soldering but I'm quite happy with it. Ok, I'm going to continue being a heathen and fit N gauge wheels but it is a 2mm scale kit! :D

Being an N Gauge modeller myself, I've been searching for a while for authentic cattle wagons (for 1930). This looks wonderful, but what chassis are you going to fit to it? The standard Peco one will be too short, so I'm guessing it means cutting down a 15ft chassis. More pics please!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Being an N Gauge modeller myself, I've been searching for a while for authentic cattle wagons (for 1930). This looks wonderful, but what chassis are you going to fit to it? The standard Peco one will be too short, so I'm guessing it means cutting down a 15ft chassis. More pics please!

 

The correct chassis for this is also available as an etch. The item numbers are 2-607 (body) and 2-609 (chassis) - see here http://2mm.org.uk/products/shops.php?shop_num=2. The later LNER Cattle wagon is also available - item 2-608.

 

The Association sells replacement axles to use with Farish wagon wheels (2-047) so you can use this with N gauge. We used to do complete wheel sets (2-027) but these are sadly no longer available as I think the mould was damaged.

 

Don't worry - if you can build the body you can build the chassis as it's easier :-) Although soldering is much to be preferred, I have built our etched underframes using just superglue. In large part they fold up and slot together.

 

You will also find etches for MR and LMS cattle wagons, as well as plastic body kits for GER, LMS, BR and SR examples. All with correct etched underframes to match.

 

Chris (the designer of the etched items)

 

P.S. If you really feel the need to hack a plastic underframe, then go with the Peco 9ft one and extend the solebars. These LNER wagons had a short wheelbase, only the body was long. THE LNER body kits include etched solebars you could stick on as overlays

Edited by Chris Higgs
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a quick note guys. The Farish wheel conversion axles are currently out of stock (I sold the last about a week ago), but hopefully should be back in stock soon. But why bother? Get some proper 2mm wheels in there and enjoy the sensation of 2FS! :D

 

Typical shopkeeper. You go in for a blue jumper, they are out of stock and he tells you that he has purple trousers and that is what you actually had always wanted in the first place.

 

You might just get the sensation of 2FS. At least until the wagon encounters its first N Gauge point!

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Typical shopkeeper. You go in for a blue jumper, they are out of stock and he tells you that he has purple trousers and that is what you actually had always wanted in the first place.

 

You might just get the sensation of 2FS. At least until the wagon encounters its first N Gauge point!

 

Chris

 

 

 Ah sir, one of our other departments can help there, a new line in quite easy to make points to match the wheels....

 

The gauge is different? Oh that's easily solved! They have some rather nice matching plain track that goes quite well......

 

 

Izzy

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Typical shopkeeper. You go in for a blue jumper, they are out of stock and he tells you that he has purple trousers and that is what you actually had always wanted in the first place.

 

 

 

Of course if you go into a trouser shop for a jumper, it's only to be expected that occasionally you'll be disappointed.  :nono:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...