Guest Natalie Graham Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Simple? Yes, although you do need to work carefully. It is accuracy that is needed not complication. Something like a piece of thickish section half inch angle squared off accurately at the end and then cut to slightly over length, say 9mm. Then, carefully and patiently, keeping the file square to the material, file it down to the back to back dimension checking frequently with the vernier as you go, removing any high spots and being careful not to go below the desired measurement anywhere. Cut a slot in the centre if you need to clear gear wheels on driven axles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted January 25, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2013 Yes, although you do need to work carefully. It is accuracy that is needed not complication. Something like a piece of thickish section half inch angle squared off accurately at the end and then cut to slightly over length, say 9mm. Then, carefully and patiently, keeping the file square to the material, file it down to the back to back dimension checking frequently with the vernier as you go, removing any high spots and being careful not to go below the desired measurement anywhere. Cut a slot in the centre if you need to clear gear wheels on driven axles. I had a suspicion that this may be the method to which you were referring, Natalie. The problem (challenge?) for me after forty years or more of such activity is my continuing inability to file anything square and level, hence my recommendation for use of the vernier lest anyone else has a similar difficulty to me. So in my case I would have recourse to the Unimat which I would have done had Stephen not, unprompted, completed the task for me! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Here's one I prepared earlier - still running on the N-gauge chassis. No 1506 0-6-0T ‘Saddle Tank’ c.1922 An antique tank engine – many were later converted to panniers. Built 1878 Withdrawn 1937 Buried under this model is a Farish ‘pannier’. The mechanism has a replacement worm and worm wheel set, giving an improved reduction ratio of 21:1 instead of the original 16:1. A new keeper plate is made from copper clad PCB, with phosphor bronze wire pickups. Brake gear, sand boxes and guard irons are fitted. After separating the superstructure, all the boiler fittings are filed off to leave a flat top. To this is araldited a nice fat sheet of nickel silver, Then the whole lump is ground and filed down to the correct profile, checked with a simple metal gauge running on the footplate. The footplate itself is shortened slightly and new smokebox and boiler fittings are added. A new old-style cab and bunker is formed of sheet metal. John, It was your 1501 class that Jerry originally pointed me at, and is hence the inspiration for my 1854 class conversion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 GWR 1854 Class - Chassis Progress Following a complete strip down of the 57xx chassis, and a re-build so that the frames were narrower (to allow me to get the back-to-back on the wheel sets), the whole has been re-assembled using a new Back-to-Back gauge that I turned up to be 8.55mm (a happy medium between the 8.51 and 8.61 figures quoted by Chris Higgs). For a little while I wondered whether I had destroyed the chassis in the process!! Below is a link to a short video of me running it in on the end of a mini-drill (the BtB gauge can be seen in the background). Now I need to fit the Nigel Lawton motor into the 1mm ID bush that has been fitted in the worm - I assume that careful application of super glue is the standard method of doing this sort of thing. I will also dribble a drop or two of super glue into the vent hole drilled in the axle muffs to fix the quartering, and fit the crankpin washers before I try to tackle the brake gear. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I fit the bush in the worm, as you have done, and then slide it onto the motor shaft and hold it whilst in place while I apply a couple of drops of super glue in the end of the tube onto the end of the shaft. I use the deluxe materials tips and tube and it allows small drops like this to be dispensed with accuracy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
autocoupler942 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 A slight diversion from signals tonight! All this snow around has reignited my long held desire to model a winter scene, and for sometime I have been on the lookout for a suitable material to represent a light to moderate snowfall. In the past I've tried the white emulsion method used on Hudson Lane by Jon Grant, but I felt that looked a little too flat, lacking the sparkle you see in fresh snow, and most of the proprietary snow you can buy is hugely over scale. Whilst browsing around the interweb for ideas, baking soda was mentioned as a method fovoured in Armour modelling circles. The typical method seems to be a mix of PVA & soda spread over the groundwork, but I wondered if I might be able to use Kleer in the same manner I have for fixing ballast in place on Ropley. This method seems to have worked quite well when tested out on the plank of many uses: image.jpg Anyway, random diversion over, back to finials! Tom, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
autocoupler942 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I think you might have the wrong kind of "wrong kind of snow" but it's been a while since BR told us there was any of that sort about! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thos Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 A trip to Blighty resulted in my picking up of several orders from my Niece's house - Shops 1 and 2, Squires, C&L and Eileen's. I have now started to make the jigs in the Track Book. Hacksawing the railstands from plug earths was easy until I changed the blade and found my new blades were too narrow. However, my attempt at the track gauge was not a success. I marked the gauge using a button gauge, but my attempts at filing to the required degree of accuracy were unsuccessful - I'll move on and get back to that later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted February 26, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Finally finished the D48 Mighty Mo running quite well now on DC ( we will not discuss the DCC problem) its will pull and push 4 wagons with out problem Very happy with the custom name plate from Narrow Planet Knowing how much bcnpete sorry lgwpete likes green CEP's thought i would pose one on its 3rd rail by MM Edited December 23, 2019 by nick_bastable 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted February 26, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2013 Pulling that 4-Cep to the paint shop for a respray no doubt... Nice work Nick... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 As part of a plan to get a number of long-term workbench/gloat box projects finished, I ordered some 2mm scale 3d printed buffers from Shapeways. These little marvels (which are rather difficult to photograph) are GWR self-contained buffers designed by Julia (Missy in Rmweb-land) and available to all and sundry to purchase via Shapeways here. The plan is that once I've finished gluing and soldering bits onto the wagons then I can christen the airbrush I was given for Christmas about 2 yrs ago(!) and get some wagons finished and ready to play trains with! Andy 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted February 28, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2013 As part of a plan to get a number of long-term workbench/gloat box projects finished, I ordered some 2mm scale 3d printed buffers from Shapeways. buffers.jpg These little marvels (which are rather difficult to photograph) are GWR self-contained buffers designed by Julia (Missy in Rmweb-land) and available to all and sundry to purchase via Shapeways here. The plan is that once I've finished gluing and soldering bits onto the wagons then I can christen the airbrush I was given for Christmas about 2 yrs ago(!) and get some wagons finished and ready to play trains with! Andy They look great Andy - Julia is a fantastically talented modeller. Get those wagons finished and bring them along to York (or Nottingham next month) Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 They look great Andy - Julia is a fantastically talented modeller. Get those wagons finished and bring them along to York (or Nottingham next month) Jerry That sounds like a challenge Jerry - I'll do my best! I'll be on the 2mm Roadshow at both Nottingham and York so will see you there (I'd forgotten you were taking Tucking Mill there). Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 (edited) Now, this is very spooky. I popped in here to post the following and put a comment that it'd be nice if there were some pukka GWR self container buffers out there and, low and behold, there's some waiting for me to purchase! With the Dapol 22 on the horizon thrown into the mixture, Christmas has come very, very early! So, with a now-solved buffer problem, here's a Bryn-designed Herring built by moi from what i think will be the final etch. Lovely model to builds and I even managed to get some transfers printed at work today. Cheers Bryn! Pix Edited March 1, 2013 by Pixie 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 (edited) Order placed for the buffers (and some 2mm pigeons whilst I was there) - thanks for these Julia! Pix Edited March 1, 2013 by Pixie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I didn't see any pigeons? Ill have to ask nicely whether she minds the buffers being used to lost wax cast in brass. I would much prefer them to be very solid since I do not have the luxury of the DG buffing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 (edited) http://www.shapeways.com/model/499052/n-scale-1-160-pigeons-set-of-121.html I'm sure no one will notice they're 1:160. Pix Edited March 2, 2013 by Pixie 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Maybe I should spend more time on there Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Maybe I should spend more time on there I'm going to try and avoid it. There were a whole lot of highly tempting things when I pressed the Model Trains button on Shapeways. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted March 3, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 3, 2013 I'm going to try and avoid it. There were a whole lot of highly tempting things when I pressed the Model Trains button on Shapeways. Chris You're right there - I just managed to stop myself ordering a couple of DR 99's in 1:120th. The bucket excavator may be a done deal, though. Alex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Not quite on my workbench (it's a bit big to fit on there), but the district inspector paid a visit this afternoon in his shiny new inspection saloon... Andy 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 (edited) Which layout is that Andy? Looks nice! Pix Edited March 3, 2013 by Pixie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Is it the late Ray Fricker's layout? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 It looks very neat, and VERY well constructed. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted March 3, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 3, 2013 (edited) Ray Fricker was, interestingly enough, someone who moved from 7mm scale to 2mm scale as he got older. Just remember to quote that next time you get the old "ooh, my eyesight couldn't deal with that. I don't know how you see it" Grrrr David (who will do his best to restrain himself at York at Easter . . .) Edited March 3, 2013 by DavidLong 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now