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Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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They look gorgeous Nigel, I really like the Princess's.

 

Jerry

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2 hours ago, queensquare said:

They look gorgeous Nigel, I really like the Princess's.

 

Jerry

Hello Jerry,

 

Thanks. Ian Rathbone's paint job on Princess Arthur really helps. If I'd tried it would have been a real mess, and she would not have been amused. I think its my favourite engine, even including LNWR G2s.

 

Nig H

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10 hours ago, Nig H said:

Hello Jerry,

 

Thanks. Ian Rathbone's paint job on Princess Arthur really helps. If I'd tried it would have been a real mess, and she would not have been amused. I think its my favourite engine, even including LNWR G2s.

 

Nig H

 

Hi Nig

 

Both your and Ian’s work on the Princess are stunning (not that the 2P is any less brilliant in her simpler way). I always thought the Princesses and Duchesses looked best in the simple BR version of maroon, ever since seeing a fabulous picture of 46256 at Carlisle in a big 70s era book, “The Joy of Steam”.

 

Is Ian doing commissions in 2mm for the general modeling public? If so is there a contact email / website?

 

Jim

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2 hours ago, Jim T said:

 

Hi Nig

 

Both your and Ian’s work on the Princess are stunning (not that the 2P is any less brilliant in her simpler way). I always thought the Princesses and Duchesses looked best in the simple BR version of maroon, ever since seeing a fabulous picture of 46256 at Carlisle in a big 70s era book, “The Joy of Steam”.

 

Is Ian doing commissions in 2mm for the general modeling public? If so is there a contact email / website?

 

Jim

Hi Jim,

 

Thanks Jim. The last I heard Ian was only doing work for previous customers. The link is www.IanRathboneModelPainting.co.uk or something similar.

 

Nig H

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I’ll get the pot polished for you...

 

Tim

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Hope its okay to share my current project.

After aquiring some coach stock for the Longmoor shuttle services on my build of Bordon I have started my first ever scratch build of a suitable loco to run them.

An ex LNWR 2-4-2T which was given the name Ealrs Roberts whilst in service and this is my progress so far.

PWAsuMn.jpg

0SRJM9P.jpg

DrijyPv.jpg

FuIU0Tz.jpg

 

Dan

 

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Not a normal rolling stock project, but I've been working on some stock boxes for my 2mm stock that will protect the DG couplings.

 

I really like the "ring binder" style stock boxes that KATO sell (and provide with their multiple units etc) so I copied the size and basic format: specific cutouts for stock in roughly A4 dense foam.

 

Now I have access to a laser cutter via a MakerSpace, I created a pattern for a box with internal size 290*200*30mm using the Boxes.Py script. Rather than mess around with hinges, I used the "two part" version with a lid. It took a bit of experimentation to get the lid to be a good interference fit. The insert is 20mm polyethylene foam cut on the laser, which was a bit tricky!IMG_20190908_224428.jpg.0e80a1ed1b66e56ff6054918009c135e.jpg

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Justin, that looks fantastic! I have some foam but I haven’t gotten around to figuring out the best way to cut it. You may have solved the problem.

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As has been mentioned elsewhere, the AGM competition has been discussed on Tony Wright's thread.

I posted a link to the following video there, but I thought I'd share it here as well. (Apologies if you get the link twice!)

It's just a little sequence showing off my 9F (now it is finally and completely finished) doing a spot of shunting.

 

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10 hours ago, garethashenden said:

Justin, that looks fantastic! I have some foam but I haven’t gotten around to figuring out the best way to cut it. You may have solved the problem.

 

Cheers Gareth. Not sure I'm at an ideal solution yet though. Cutting the foam on the laser wasn't easy - basically it seems like if you cut all the way through, the heat reflects back up and turns the bottom surface into a molten mess (even when resting on a honeycomb support structure). So it's a question of tweaking the settings to get it to cut as close as possible to all the way through, without going all the way through.

 

This sheet was cut with the laser moving 10x faster than I used for ply, at a higher pulse frequency, and 5 passes (only one for most materials). That basically burned through in the corners, where a vertical and horizontal cut overlapped, making a hole on the reverse, but only went about 70% of the way through on most of it - so it became a job of joining the dots with a scalpel!

 

 

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As a small diversion from trains and tracks, I have been building a Clyde Puffer that will be used with my pending DJLC entry. It is based on the Gramodels resin kit, and I am blogging the build each day this week here.

 

It will also be on show at TINGS this weekend, on the Royal Albert Bridge layout of the Basingstoke & North Hants MRS.

 

IMG_20190907_121945

 

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“Chust sublime!”

Edited by Northroader
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Just a bit motivated after the AGM, so spent an hour or so this evening working on a (hopefully better) Grampus - Fencehouses chassis kit and Association plastic body.

 

Nick’s Jubilee series of videos was a very good choice as winner of the Geoff Balfour award - it’s given me the know-how to sweat up the solebars without any major dramas, something I’ve found tricky in the past...thank all of you who brought layouts, demos, competition entries etc. to the AGM for your various inspirational inputs :-)

 

Quick query after hunting around for interior pics without success: steel floor or planked floor in a Grampus?

 

Jim

 

EF5C3FED-A63B-4358-B3D3-2E0F6CEDE999.jpeg

Edited by Jim T
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On 10/09/2019 at 22:27, Jim T said:

Quick query after hunting around for interior pics without success: steel floor or planked floor in a Grampus?

 

Hi Jim,

Planked floor.

I conducted a similar search for an interior view just a couple of weeks ago, and came across this on Paul Bartlett's site:

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/grampuszbv/h3e98ef9c

 

See the recent post in my Wagonologie thread to see how I did the floors in my Stephen Harris Grampus kits (which have the plank lines etched):

Nick.

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A virtual workbench post from me this time. I've been working out the etched chassis arrangement for my N gauge N1. I've still got plenty to do, but I'm pleased with progress to date.

 

1588029443_N1ChassisAssembly1.jpg.c492b4267d326613f031c6130e3f282c.jpg

 

1775238329_N1ChassisAssembly2.jpg.0ced528e0fd8a6b5882000af40e8422c.jpg

 

1246522860_N1ChassisAssembly.jpg.fd2f8d6d3e7d4c15d6bd2be99c8656ae.jpg

 

1973393812_N1ChassisAssembly3.jpg.49537c923163e63a71f5abbee8a6b74f.jpg

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I saw elsewhere Steve that you were looking at a 25:1 reduction with this set up.  I think you should be able to fit a much larger worm wheel than that as these are quite leggy engines: it won’t show and so long as it clears the rail top the benefits in running would be worth having. 

 

Tim

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33 minutes ago, CF MRC said:

I saw elsewhere Steve that you were looking at a 25:1 reduction with this set up.  I think you should be able to fit a much larger worm wheel than that as these are quite leggy engines: it won’t show and so long as it clears the rail top the benefits in running would be worth having. 

 

Tim

 

Hi Tim,

 

I was planning on using one of Sven's slower revving 7mm motors which would give a maximum unladen speed of 82.4mph. Increasing the ratio to 30:1 would bring the maximum speed down to a smidge under 69mph. Thinking about it, I'm never going to run the N1 through Hadley Wood at 80+. Many thanks, I'll look into changing the layout.

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Hi everybody,

A bit of detail fiddling on my workbench.

i recently bought a Farish Wainwright C-class - it is a stunning loco and looks gorgeous in SECR livery. It runs beautifully (though I am not sure that it would pull the skin off a rice pudding) but, as others have commented, the coupling rods really let it down. As I will be keeping it to run on my N-gauge layout, I didn’t want to do anything drastic like changing the wheels and back-to-back so I decided to have a go at simply improving the appearance.

i firstly took the rods off - undoing the small hex-headed crank pins - then cramped each rod section in a small hand vice. I managed to file down the rods as far as I dared, from an OOTB 1.10 mm to about 0.90 mm and slightly reduced the outside diameters of the bosses. Then I cleaned them up with fine wet-and-dry paper and reassembled them (quite tricky). Finally, i blackened the lot (Super Blue), lightly burnished them with a fibreglass brush and applied a sheen of light oil. See photos below.

92A8EF02-2B5D-4F8D-BFB8-5018C507BD5A.jpeg.9c53ba3c831ec510c6efd1a7e17337d0.jpeg

Before.

D76CE740-4138-4977-BCD6-27483DC2F302.jpeg.ad2d20ad30bd495db71066456ecadf31.jpeg

After.

I think a worthwhile improvement for a couple of hours work.

Best wishes,

John

Edited by JohnBS
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