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Hornby Sentinel - including cranked version


Southernman46
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Graham just arrived down under. However the blanking plug seems a little too short. Anyone else have this problem?

 

post-23366-0-80782000-1522311583_thumb.jpeg

 

 

Following with interest the P4 conversion. I was thinking either, Ultrascale wheels pushed back on the Hornby original axles? Or a branchlines chassis?

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Graham just arrived down under. However the blanking plug seems a little too short. Anyone else have this problem?

 

attachicon.gifC3584C5A-B327-4EA5-AC37-17096C18969F.jpeg

 

 

Following with interest the P4 conversion. I was thinking either, Ultrascale wheels pushed back on the Hornby original axles? Or a branchlines chassis?

Remove the tension lock coupling from the pocket the blank then plugs into the pocket.

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I've been stalled on mine for years as I couldn't find a way to get the panel joints subtle enough on a model where one part of the body stays with the chassis and the other comes away when the body is taken off. I stumbled on the loco last night and it occurred to me that one way to do this is to cut the chassis away from the body parts that it is permanently connected to (the footplate, etc), and find a new way of fixing the chassis to the body which could now be unite as a whole and permanently. The chassis could be grafted to brass spacers or some such inside the body. I've outlined the part I'd envisage cutting out, with 2 of the possible 4 re-fixing points arrowed. 

 

post-708-0-37479900-1522340813.png

 

As I model 00 I'd keep the Hornby chassis. But one could even replace the whole chassis with a scratchbuilt one, with a High Level box. Would this be a way for the P4 people to liberate themselves from Hornby's gears? 

Edited by Daddyman
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Well, my Oxfordshire Ironstone Sentinel Betty is now finished. 

 

Detailing parts included swords and plates from Judith Edge, Nameplates from Narrow Planet and sand box spill plates from RT models - I would have used their skirts too, but I'd already filled and sanded mine before they became available. 

 

It started life as the Wabtec livery model, resprayed with Humbrol acrylic and transfers from Fox. Other detailing includes filling the join lines in the buffer beams, drilling out the lifting eyes, making dump car coupling pockets from scrap etch and adding a crew. I didn't fancy using the Shawplan glazing, but this is also available. 

 

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0011.JPG

 

Paul A. 

Hi Paul, cracking job on this respray. I'd love to make a Betty myself. Quick question for you, if you'd be so kind. Can you recall what Humbrol acrylic number you used for the main colour please?

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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Hi Paul, cracking job on this respray. I'd love to make a Betty myself. Quick question for you, if you'd be so kind. Can you recall what Humbrol acrylic number you used for the main colour please?

 

Thanks

 

Chris

Thanks Chris. It was "No.20 Crimson"

 

It's available in a rattle can...or at least it was - the Humbrol website is showing as out of stock. Readily available elsewhere though. 

 

 

Paul A. 

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Thanks Chris. It was "No.20 Crimson"

 

It's available in a rattle can...or at least it was - the Humbrol website is showing as out of stock. Readily available elsewhere though. 

 

 

Paul A. 

Thank you!

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I bought a rod-drive flavoured one of these a couple of weeks ago and it runs like a three-legged dog. It literally runs as if it has a limp. That's when it runs at all - it usually needs prodding to get it to move at all.  Any ideas what the likely cause is and is there a cure, short of hitting it with a large hammer and buying a proper one (Judith Edge kit).

 

Sending it back is no longer an option since I repainted it.

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I bought a rod-drive flavoured one of these a couple of weeks ago and it runs like a three-legged dog. It literally runs as if it has a limp. That's when it runs at all - it usually needs prodding to get it to move at all.  Any ideas what the likely cause is and is there a cure, short of hitting it with a large hammer and buying a proper one (Judith Edge kit).

 

Sending it back is no longer an option since I repainted it.

Sounds like the wheels aren't quartered properly.

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Sounds like the wheels aren't quartered properly.

 Easy enough to check. The Plastic cranks, complete with rods simply pull off.

 

This pic might make things a bit clearer.

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 Easy enough to check. The Plastic cranks, complete with rods simply pull off.

 

This pic might make things a bit clearer.

I see no pic. Unless it's a pic of a white Sentinel in a snowdrift?. :scratchhead:

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Thanks. The pic shows the cranks completely removed, so are the ends of the axles square, splined or just plain round? They don't seem to want to budge on mine and I don't want to force them round on the axle if they aren't meant to.

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Thanks. The pic shows the cranks completely removed, so are the ends of the axles square, splined or just plain round? They don't seem to want to budge on mine and I don't want to force them round on the axle if they aren't meant to.

 

Yep. The ends of the extended axles are square. The cranks (plastic) have square sockets and on mine simply pulled off. The original wheels were an interference fit on the straight knurling.

 

Don't know if this phot makes things any clearer?

 

post-508-0-39484500-1523377338_thumb.jpg

 

The model I used for the phots was Hornby's  R3483 in Crossley and Evans livery. Looking at Tim horns photograph of a Non Crank Sentinel, confusingly seems to include an Hornby cranked axle of a different design showing a splined plastic extension integral with the wheel centre so possibly Hornby changed the specification at some point?

 

11805668836_2dd37899cc_b.jpgHornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH04 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr

 

Hth

 

p

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Thanks. That definitely makes it clearer and the cranks having square holes means it can't be the quartering then. I think I'd notice if one was out 90 degrees! But having said that, comparing one end to the other, they do appear to be slightly out. Something to do with the gears on the axles being in the wrong position relative to the cranks? Is that even possible? Why have they built this thing with gears to both axles when it has rods anyway? Bizarre.

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Yep. The ends of the extended axles are square. The cranks (plastic) have square sockets and on mine simply pulled off. The original wheels were an interference fit on the straight knurling.

 

Don't know if this phot makes things any clearer?

 

HornbySenitiel-007-EditSM.jpg

 

The model I used for the phots was Hornby's R3483 in Crossley and Evans livery. Looking at Tim horns photograph of a Non Crank Sentinel, confusingly seems to include an Hornby cranked axle of a different design showing a splined plastic extension integral with the wheel centre so possibly Hornby changed the specification at some point?

 

11805668836_2dd37899cc_b.jpgHornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH04 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr

 

Hth

 

p

It’s interesting that Tim Horn has used the original Hornby pinions but hasn’t experienced the concentricity problem I encountered
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Thanks. That definitely makes it clearer and the cranks having square holes means it can't be the quartering then. I think I'd notice if one was out 90 degrees! But having said that, comparing one end to the other, they do appear to be slightly out. Something to do with the gears on the axles being in the wrong position relative to the cranks? Is that even possible? Why have they built this thing with gears to both axles when it has rods anyway? Bizarre.

 

To keep the design the same as the models without coupling rods?

 

It does look like a recipe for trouble, though.

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It’s interesting that Tim Horn has used the original Hornby pinions but hasn’t experienced the concentricity problem I encountered

 

I think Mr Horn has used the Ultrascale "drop in" conversions. Same as Capt K from hereabouts. 

 

11805672116_a2f2482e10_b.jpgHornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH03 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr

Edited by Porcy Mane
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I found the cause of the problem to be that the gear on one axle was loose. It was able to slide from side to side and partially rotate. I think this must have taken it out of phase with the rods. Simply fixed by cutting the gear off the axle and relying on the rods to transmit power to the second axle. So it does run now and reasonably smoothly too.

Edited by Ruston
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I think Mr Horn has used the Ultrascale "drop in" conversions. Same as Capt K from hereabouts.

 

11805672116_a2f2482e10_b.jpgHornby Esso 4wDM Sentinel converted to P4 TJH03 6th January 2014 Copyright Tim Horn by Tim Horn, on Flickr

Thanks for that. I have acquired a set of Ultrascales second hand for my second conversion. I shall be using them when the current project is finished.
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