Dapol Class 121 and 122 in OO gauge

[wombatofludham]

You know, at first I thought those photos were the real thing.  Really nice looking modelling.

[sigtech]

 Just have to agree with Mark,  when I first viewed the  pictures above I was convinced it was the real thing....stunning modelling and attention to detail, particularly the lighting, superb craftsmanship Waverley West!!

Regards

(SIGTECH)

Steve.

[Scottish-Exile]

Hattons have just emailed advising that the 121 in Arriva Trains Wales livery, is now scheduled to arrive in December.

[BR(S)]

I have a question regarding the lighting on this unit. I have just purchased a BR Blue grey 122 and with it a brand new 36-577 Bachmann decoder ( the new ESU version with 2 "logic" functions not the previous soundtraxx one). On the information printed on the reverse of the decoder packaging it says it is 21pin MTC compatible. On the 122 instructions it says if your decoder is 21 pin MTC then the interior lights are controllable and can be switched off/on by pressing F3. If it isn't MTC then they will be on permanently. Having fitted the decoder to the unit, the interior lights stay on permanently and F3 has no effect. All other lights work independently as they should. Does anyone have any idea why the interior lights won't switch off seeing as it is a 21Pin MTC decoder?  I have tried other function buttons such as F5 just in case but nothing happens. I am using a Dynamis controller.

 

Any help or suggestions would be great thanks.

This thread should provide some info, though not necessarily a solution unfortunately:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/124540-Dapol-class-122-dcc-sound-decoder-issue/

[Going2theDogs]

Hattons have just emailed advising that the 121 in Arriva Trains Wales livery, is now scheduled to arrive in December.

Likewise I have been advised the Railtrack version is also planned for a December release.

Fingers crossed as this was going to be my Xmas present.....

[NEIL MM]

I recently bought a Dapol Class 121 with the intention of converting it to EM gauge and wasnt sure how easy this was going to be. As stated the electrical pick is from the axle and the wheels are split axle. The keeper plate looked like it was not removable and was an integral moulding with the bogie so my plan to fit fine scale wheels had to be scrapped My solution to this was to gently ease the existing wheels out with a screw diver so that the wheel back to back was to EM gauge as there appeared to be plenty of space. Although course for fine scale the existing wheels coped with my EM gauge track very adequately. I found that the model needed some running in but it is a very fine addition to my locomotive fleet.

[lyneux]

I recently bought a Dapol Class 121 with the intention of converting it to EM gauge and wasnt sure how easy this was going to be. As stated the electrical pick is from the axle and the wheels are split axle. The keeper plate looked like it was not removable and was an integral moulding with the bogie so my plan to fit fine scale wheels had to be scrapped My solution to this was to gently ease the existing wheels out with a screw diver so that the wheel back to back was to EM gauge as there appeared to be plenty of space. Although course for fine scale the existing wheels coped with my EM gauge track very adequately. I found that the model needed some running in but it is a very fine addition to my locomotive fleet.

Assuming you mean a 122 or have the 121s started arriving? Interesting beta on conversion to EM.

 

Guy

[metadyneman]

I recently bought a Dapol Class 121 with the intention of converting it to EM gauge and wasnt sure how easy this was going to be. As stated the electrical pick is from the axle and the wheels are split axle. The keeper plate looked like it was not removable and was an integral moulding with the bogie so my plan to fit fine scale wheels had to be scrapped My solution to this was to gently ease the existing wheels out with a screw diver so that the wheel back to back was to EM gauge as there appeared to be plenty of space. Although course for fine scale the existing wheels coped with my EM gauge track very adequately. I found that the model needed some running in but it is a very fine addition to my locomotive fleet.

The keeper plate is removable and exposes not only the wheels but all of the final gear train as well. 

[metadyneman]

My 122 seems to run very slowly even at full "volume" until it has run round for a bit then seems to get a bit faster. Has anyone else encountered this? It literally crawls along at a scale 10mph even with the wick turned up on the controller. I did check the gears and they were lubricated with a really sticky clear lubricant, could this be the problem?

[The Johnster]

My 122 seems to run very slowly even at full "volume" until it has run round for a bit then seems to get a bit faster. Has anyone else encountered this? It literally crawls along at a scale 10mph even with the wick turned up on the controller. I did check the gears and they were lubricated with a really sticky clear lubricant, could this be the problem?

 

 

Possibly, especially if the slow running is a bit stiff as well.  My recommendation, if you don't want to go to the bother of returning the model, would be to strip everything down, keeping small screws and bits in a piece of blu tack or plasticene to avoid them making a break for the border), wash the lubricant, and anything else in the way of crud, off in petrol or similar (I use Maplin's spray rattlecan 'Switch Cleaner' for this), and re-lubricate very sparingly as you re-assemble it.  Often the problem is a combination of overlubrication and friction which is solved by re-assembly and re-lubing.  Modelling shops, not necessarily railway but aircraft, R/C etc, will sell suitable lubricant and a hypodermic syringe to apply it to awkward spots.  Do not overdo this or do it unless it needs re-lubing because it has dried out, or it will build up and attract crud.  Keep the hypo separate from any that are used in your home for any other purpose!

[mevaman]

I have four 122s and I ran them on our Club test tracks last night. All ran very noisily and slowly. The noise was not mechanical and was a form of electrical ‘buzzing’. I was so worried that I didn’t run them for very long.

 

The layout uses Gaugemaster non-feedback panel mounted controllers. We don’t have anything additional like HF track cleaners. A Bachmann class 20 was run with no problems so we were able to ascertain that there wasn’t a partial short or any other track/electrical problems.

 

Fellow Club members queried whether the Dapol electronics were not compatible with the Gaugemaster panel-mounts.

 

I am now going to try the models on my rolling road with Gaugemaster feedback controllers.

 

Has anybody else encountered similar problems?

[Silver Sidelines]

Hi Mevaman

.Has anybody else encountered similar problems?

I use Gaugemaster DS.  Yes my 122 moves sedately - very similar to the Heljan parcels (128s).

 

I doubt I could run it coupled to a Bachmann DMU.

 

Ray

[mevaman]

Update on my 122s!

 

I still found the models to be buzzing loudly even whilst on my rolling road with a Gaugemaster DS. I was worried about some form of electrical fault.

 

I opened up one and removed the seating moulding to reveal the motor. Whilst running on full power, I then discovered that the buzzing noise stopped when I put my finger on top the motor.

 

The simple fact was that the motor was noisily vibrating despite sitting in a cradle of thin foam pieces.

 

To overcome the problem I pushed in a ‘sausage’ of blue-tac on each side of the motor. I have adopted this solution for all my models and they are all running sweetly and quietly.

[The Johnster]

I'd advise caution with the blu tac sausage method; it can be effective as a noise dampener, but make sure there is plenty of space for the motor to be cooled with, and of course it does not eliminate the vibration, only absorbing the noise, so if the vibration is causing other issues they will not be solved by this method.

 

I would look at how the motor is mounted, and check that any fixing screws are properly tight.  If this does not cure the buzzing, try a 'shim' of blu tac on the bearing surfaces of the motor cradle, but it will have to be very thin or the motor will not be sitting in the right position.

[mevaman]

Many thanks The Johnster.

 

The motor is not mounted as such. It just sits in a foam lined cradle which only supports the lower half. This means that there is nothing to physically stop vibration. The two shafts with universal joints both turn sweetly, with no tight spots.

[davy crockett]

Many thanks The Johnster.

The motor is not mounted as such. It just sits in a foam lined cradle which only supports the lower half. This means that there is nothing to physically stop vibration. The two shafts with universal joints both turn sweetly, with no tight spots.

The motor pushes into two lugs to secure it

[time for a brew]

Wow! it has to be stripped down that far to fix all the problems? 

[railcar1]

No,there should foam pad on top of the motor which acts as a damper when the seating unit is refitted on top.My 122 had thiis missing and sounded like a herd of bees.Now added it runs very quietly.

Model railway magazine reviews exploded views show this pad eg Hornby July 2017

[mevaman]

IMG_4385.JPG

The motor pushes into two lugs to secure it

Does your motor vibrate? I can see the lugs but these don’t secure the motor from up/down movement.

[dibber25]

Wow! it has to be stripped down that far to fix all the problems? 

 

Only, I guess, if it displays those problems. Really, for the benefit of the manufacturer getting feedback about his products, it should be returned under warranty. The warranty will be invalidated by that kind of dismantling. I have two 122s and they both run very nicely without any attention at all. (CJL)

Edited November 8, 2017 by dibber25

[mevaman]

No,there should foam pad on top of the motor which acts as a damper when the seating unit is refitted on top.My 122 had thiis missing and sounded like a herd of bees.Now added it runs very quietly.

Model railway magazine reviews exploded views show this pad eg Hornby July 2017

Many thanks railcar1. All has become clear. This pad is missing on all my models. Edited November 8, 2017 by mevaman

[davy crockett]

Only, I guess, if it displays those problems. Really, for the benefit of the manufacturer getting feedback about his products, it should be returned under warranty. The warranty will be invalidated by that kind of dismantling. I have two 122s and they both run very nicely without any attention at all. (CJL)

There was nothing wrong with the loco, in fact it was a perfect silent runner, it was stripped to create a dummy, all the parts will be kept for future spare if needed. The point of the picture was to show others how the motors are secured.

[mevaman]

Following the modifications to my 122 models to stop the motors vibrating, all ran sweetly on our Club test layout last night. All started running slowly but soon speeded up after several circuits - running in is definitely required!

 

I ran them together with the Bachmann 101. The difference in carriage lighting was noticeable. The Dapol models are much brighter. The lack of passengers was most apparent in the 122s and will be my next job.

[ColinK]

I'm renumbering my blue railcar, can anyone recommend transfers to use?

[jbg]

Is there any news on the timing of the Class 121 models?  

 

I see in the Dapol B4 thread that the photo catches most of the blue & grey version (W55029) but there has't been much information recently about delivery dates - any ideas?

 

Thanks

 

Jeremy