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Dapol Class 121 and 122 in OO gauge

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On 16/05/2020 at 03:18, portsladepete said:

the drone from the motor is bit irritating as well. Great detail but overall less than satisfactory.

 

Mine has a constant high-pitched whine. As you say, irritating.

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How long have you had yours?  I think mine has quietened down after extensive running ,or my hearing has decided to ignore it.

Normally I would put a tiny amount of oil on the motor bearing, but Dapol have warned that this would destroy the motor ???

With the decoder fitted, it is now quite enjoyable, an awful lot of people seem to fit sound to this, wonder if some of them can’t stand the noise!

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Hi Pete, thanks for commenting. Mine is a recent purchase. Perhaps it will quieten down after more running. Sunny day here in Brighton.

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I took mine apart this evening in an attempt to diagnose the drive shaft fault. The design doesn't make this sort of thing at all easy. In the end it appeared that the cardan shaft to the non-guards end bogie had suffered a loosening of the universal joints at both ends of the shaft, such that neither was gripping the shaft properly. Getting further into the model would have required unsoldering several connections (a really lousy bit of design) so rather than faff around I did what others have done and disconnected the entire drive to the bogie, leaving just the guards end powered. At least it runs again now, although I've little confidence that the other shaft won't suffer the same fate down the line.

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I had the same issue with mine, I dismantled it and re attached the shaft at the non guards end. Now it runs well in both directions, however, when running in the direction of the non guards end it does indeed sound like a bag of nails, but is sweet as a nut when running in the other direction. Should have sent it back really but life got in the way and it was about 6 months before I ran it for the first time. 

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I hardly send anything back, always worried that the replacement will be worse. I had a Heljan loco that had a displaced drive shaft, that had been caused by the motor shifting slightly to the opposite end.

Must admit, this has put me off Dapol for locos, but all the manufacturers have their lemons,I seem to get more than my fair share. With this particular one, think we could stock a supermarket.

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i've took the gears out of one bogie on both of mine and they run far better. No need for all wheel drive on a single railcar and happily copes hauling a BG or GUV so would easily cope with a trailer car.

 

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My blue / grey one wth the stag on the front arrived today from hattons.

 

With a lais DCC decoder it ran a bit jittery ( had already run in on DC so knew it wasn't the loco )

 

Swapped it with an imperium from another loco and it runs ok now and the class 24 now runs ok with the lais chip.

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1 hour ago, portsladepete said:

Did you get a decal sheet with your blue/grey one?

My 121 55026 didn’t but both my 122’s did.
I couldn’t wait to get rid of that stag and oval buffers on 55026. Looks a lot better now.

1FD65F34-F337-471D-AB84-390570A46117.jpeg

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, portsladepete said:

Did you get a decal sheet with your blue/grey one?

no mate but the headcode panel is blanked like the one pictured above, so it dosent light up so not needed however Ive also got a blue one with the 2 digit headcode box at the front. I didn't get one with that either even tho that needed them. I ended up paying a tenner for them from dcc supplies

Edited by meatloaf

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11 hours ago, 66738 said:

My 121 55026 didn’t but both my 122’s did.
I couldn’t wait to get rid of that stag and oval buffers on 55026. Looks a lot better now.

1FD65F34-F337-471D-AB84-390570A46117.jpeg

 

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How easy is it to replace the buffers? One of mine launched itself skyward when I was fitting the details, originally only found the buffer, dab of superglue to refit it, then immediately found spring and the tiniest retaining collar I’ve ever seen.

Do you put buffer and spring in first and the attach collar from the rear? If so, might have  to leave it glued, I can barely see the collar let alone fit it

 

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16 minutes ago, portsladepete said:

How easy is it to replace the buffers? One of mine launched itself skyward when I was fitting the details, originally only found the buffer, dab of superglue to refit it, then immediately found spring and the tiniest retaining collar I’ve ever seen.

Do you put buffer and spring in first and the attach collar from the rear? If so, might have  to leave it glued, I can barely see the collar let alone fit it

 

It’s a fiddly job. Suffice to say, they are no longer sprung buffers. It’s no big deal for me. They look right, and that’s all that matters to me. 
66738

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So have been reading everyone comments on loud motors and running problems and reckon I have diagnosed the problem. My motor is also getting very hot after an unreasonable period of running and this led me to believe it was being placed under unacceptable stress. Closer examination proved that there is no horizontal play in the metal cardan shafts which is putting the motor under-strain. Removing one of these proved my theory as although the motor is still getting a little hot, it is no where near as bad as it was. 

 

Hornby Bachmann etc all use plastic cardan's with a little bit of play in them as it is inevitable that motor with the fly wheels on will move laterally slightly while in use - the Hornby Class 50 and 31s even have telescopic cardan shafts to help with this problem! 

 

So a better solution I suspect will be to make new shafts, either from plastic or telescopic to solve the problem. 

 

Bruce 

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On 22/05/2020 at 09:53, portsladepete said:

How easy is it to replace the buffers? One of mine launched itself skyward when I was fitting the details, originally only found the buffer, dab of superglue to refit it, then immediately found spring and the tiniest retaining collar I’ve ever seen.

Do you put buffer and spring in first and the attach collar from the rear? If so, might have  to leave it glued, I can barely see the collar let alone fit it

 

 

I replaced the ones on my 960011 model with ones from Wizard models (22" Oleos), but it was quite a job getting rid of the cast shanks off of the bufferbeam though so probably not for the faint hearted, the new ones though look much better than the Dapol Shanks anyday, a pity though as the supplied ones are decent enough

 

NL

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Realise this has been covered previously, but I would like to fit drivers to each end. I have tried going through the opening behind the seats, but can’t get them seated!

I think the two screws holding the light bar should be undone and then the whole assembly comes out including the cabs, by stretching the body sides.

Would appreciate a step by step guide,(pictures would be even better),as I don’t want to damage the light bar etc.

Thanks

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6 hours ago, portsladepete said:

Realise this has been covered previously, but I would like to fit drivers to each end. I have tried going through the opening behind the seats, but can’t get them seated!

I think the two screws holding the light bar should be undone and then the whole assembly comes out including the cabs, by stretching the body sides.

Would appreciate a step by step guide,(pictures would be even better),as I don’t want to damage the light bar etc.

Thanks

 

From 

The light bar is released by removing two cross-head screws.

 

The cab interiors are fixed to the light-bar and locate into slots in the body - spring the body sides apart and the cab interiors and light-bar will pull out.

 

 

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Recently ran into this problem on a 122, motor running but no movement. Trying most of the remedy’s in the chat and it doesn’t seem to be helping, any ideas, think I can still send it back. 

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I've been following this thread for a while.   I was hesitant to buy the 121 because of some of the less than fully positive comments, however £79 for the Highland Stag version from Hattons finally tempted me.  It arrived today.  Runs nicely (I even took it round the goods loop with its 2nd radius curved point and no derailments).  As others have pointed out, it does draw quite a current and the motor buzz is loud by comparison with modern Bachmann and Hornby (but nowhere near as noisy as my vintage Grafar 00 gauge 94xx tank from the 1970s.)  However I only have a small fiddle yard to branch terminus layout so the 121 is never likely to be run far and fast enough to overheat.  Overall I am quite pleased with it.

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