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Hornby P2


Dick Turpin
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I had not thought about that as a possibility so I thankyou for that.

 

The problem now is finding a spring of suitable tension to use.

Make one from phosphor bronze wire?

 

Keith

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If you are trying to run the Hornby P2 through Peco code 100 pointwork then for a start the back-to-back setting for the pony wheels must be checked to ensure that it is narrow enough, say 14.5mm absolute maximum, narrower than that if the flange backs will still clear the check rails. Getting a narrower setting may be a challenge owing to the blind holes in many of Hornby's recent wheels, which prevent you from pushing the axle deeper into the wheel, unless you deepen the hole, drill it right through, or shorten the axle slightly. Conversely, if you want to run through code 75 Peco or finer track, then the back-to-back setting will have to be 14.5minimum, possibly up to 14.8 depending on your track.

 

If you want the loco to cope with both kinds of track then somewhere or other the flanges of the wheels won't be doing a proper job of guiding the wheels, and the silly Hornby "double knuckle" pivot for the pony truck will really cause problems, if it hasn't already done so. Given any freedom to wander, the truck wants to suddenly "kick" to one side. Using a spring to transfer weight onto the pony truck may not solve the problem and will reduce the weight on the coupled wheels, limiting the loco's ultimate haulage ability. Using even a gentle spring to try to persuade the truck to either remain central or only deviate smoothly from the centre line only really solves the problem fully if you are not expecting the loco to cope with different track codes - I've tried it. If you use a centring spring but set BTB's wide to suit fine scale track, then the spring tends to make the pony wheels want to go the wrong way at the crossing nose when running through the curved route in facing "coarse code" points.

 

The only thoroughly effective solution I've found is to alter the pony truck, getting rid of the double-knuckle arrangement entirely and extending the truck frame backwards so that it can pivot on a screw in the keeper plate below the first set of coupled wheels. This allows the pony wheels to follow curves in the track freely and almost "neutrally", the (hopefully) coned treads of the wheels keeping them centred for most of the time rather than relying on the flanges pushing against the rail edges. My P2 thus modified floats faultlessly through both code 75 and code 100 pointwork even with a finer (Gibson) set of bogie wheels than Hornby supply.

 

I wouldn't settle for black spokes in the pony wheels of a Doncaster-green loco.....

Edited by gr.king
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You might be able to do something similar to what I did on my L1s, to cure the excessive side-to-side swing.  The spring itself is a piece of (fairly fat) phosphor bronze wire, although brass would probably work as well.   The front end tucks into the tails of the tension lock coupling (otherwise you could drill a hole in the pony truck to take it) and the rear end (formed into a loop) is trapped under the foremost of the screws that attaches the keeper plate:

 

post-31-0-36831200-1530521629_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

Before its show debut at Shildon locomotion, the newest engine to the New North Eastern Railway Company's fleet, sits steaming on shed waiting to be sent out on a running in turn.

 

attachicon.gif43040033_298047634119374_2992239836074606592_n.jpg

 

attachicon.gif43086342_749814218693953_4756138374320881664_n.jpg

 

 

David - looks very smart - are they Graeme King parts?

 

Is it the angle or is the front pony truck a bit far back?

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Before its show debut at Shildon locomotion, the newest engine to the New North Eastern Railway Company's fleet, sits steaming on shed waiting to be sent out on a running in turn.

 

attachicon.gif43040033_298047634119374_2992239836074606592_n.jpg

 

attachicon.gif43086342_749814218693953_4756138374320881664_n.jpg

IMHO with the extra long smokebox that really could do with a 4 wheel truck at the front.

 

Keith

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David - looks very smart - are they Graeme King parts?

 

Is it the angle or is the front pony truck a bit far back?

 

No kit parts used, just a Hornby P2 2001 and a Hornby A4 body. I have had to place the body of the engine a little further forwards mainly due to the angle of the A4 body rising from the front to the same height of the body of the P2 and the way that the valances of the A4 side would have lowered back down to the same level of the running plate. The added benefit of the longer front end was that it would allow space for the much longer names that were made some time ago for the engine, being "Marquis of Londonderry / Fighting Charlie" which are a lot longer than some others that similar engines carried.

 

It meant that the cylinders were placed slightly further back, but there is no hard and fast rule that they must be in line with the smokebox. Western engines are not, and neither are Thompson Pacific's. There is possibly space for an extra wheelset to form a bogie under the smokebox, but this would depend on the ease of the conversion and the swing the leading wheel would have towards the valances of the engine and whether that would limit its ability to negotiate curves. For the time being 'Charlie' is staying in its guise as an extended P2/4, complete with corridor tender, TPWS, OTMR, oil lubrication system and new radio system, all done out in the New North Eastern Railways, British Railways Darlington Green Late Crest house livery.

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No kit parts used, just a Hornby P2 2001 and a Hornby A4 body. I have had to place the body of the engine a little further forwards mainly due to the angle of the A4 body rising from the front to the same height of the body of the P2 and the way that the valances of the A4 side would have lowered back down to the same level of the running plate. The added benefit of the longer front end was that it would allow space for the much longer names that were made some time ago for the engine, being "Marquis of Londonderry / Fighting Charlie" which are a lot longer than some others that similar engines carried.

 

It meant that the cylinders were placed slightly further back, but there is no hard and fast rule that they must be in line with the smokebox. Western engines are not, and neither are Thompson Pacific's. There is possibly space for an extra wheelset to form a bogie under the smokebox, but this would depend on the ease of the conversion and the swing the leading wheel would have towards the valances of the engine and whether that would limit its ability to negotiate curves. For the time being 'Charlie' is staying in its guise as an extended P2/4, complete with corridor tender, TPWS, OTMR, oil lubrication system and new radio system, all done out in the New North Eastern Railways, British Railways Darlington Green Late Crest house livery.

 

 

Could well be a good foundation for a model of the proposed Gresley 4-8-2 that was to be partly P2 based and got canned due to the War. 

 

Paul. 

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What classification would the 4-8-2 have been given?

 

I've seen this conversation before, though I can't remember where (possibly the LNER page?). and To be honest, as the letters are all occupied, barring I, so it would be either an I1, or a double letter job.

 

Perhaps, given that U, W, X and Z, were all for either single types of class within the wheel arrangement (and Z included "miscellaneous"), it could well be that one of these would be used. My guess would be however, Class R2, as the original R class went in 1934, and would free up the slot.

 

Paul.  

 

Edit 

https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1230

Edited by Paul_sterling
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This?

 

https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2443&start=375#p32473

 

Tinkering starts at page 21. I can't believe that it was more than 8 years ago. Will somebody please stop the passage of time before it has all gone? I have so many unfulfilled intentions.....

 

 

Thanks!

 

Just looked and it appears that Atlantic 3279 was thinking on similar lines to myself calling it R class (R2), but i'd not seen that page, just the one i'd linked. 

 

Separate subject, but related to the passage of time. I was attending an open Mic night on Wednesday night, and looking around thinking, "when did I go from being 'the new kid on the block' to 'most of the other acts are half my age' !".   I'm "only" 31, but its now been 7 years since I was considered to be in the Younger section on the X-Factor, not that I would go on such a turdfest! Seems incredible where time has gone. 

 

Paul. 

Edited by Paul_sterling
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Before its show debut at Shildon locomotion, the newest engine to the New North Eastern Railway Company's fleet, sits steaming on shed waiting to be sent out on a running in turn.

 

attachicon.gif43040033_298047634119374_2992239836074606592_n.jpg

 

attachicon.gif43086342_749814218693953_4756138374320881664_n.jpg

I love it, though I agree that a 4-wheel truck at the front would set it off nicely. A 4-cylinder LNER thoroughbred perhaps?

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Then some strong drill bits will be needed to drill the chassis as I have broke quite a few drill bits when trying to drill a chassis for a new bolt or screw fixing point.

I thought Mazak/Zamak was fairly easy to drill?

 

Keith

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This?

 

https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2443&start=375#p32473

 

Tinkering starts at page 21. I can't believe that it was more than 8 years ago. Will somebody please stop the passage of time before it has all gone? I have so many unfulfilled intentions.....

 

 

Graeme that really does look the canine's wotsits - it just sits beautifully - when are you getting into production?

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In my experience it depends what part of the chassis is being drilled.

 

I converted a Hornby tender driven 28xx loco to loco drive about 14 years ago.

 

During the process of opening up the chassis using an ordinary power drill because I do not own a bench drill or a vice to hold the work in place, I had to use my feet with shoes on to hold it down because now and again, the chassis would snag and become a 1 bladed helicopter on the drill bit.

G'Day Folks

 

I find with Hornby chassis, a small hole first, then slightly bigger and so on until you get to the right size hole.

 

manna

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I do not own a bench drill or a vice to hold the work in place,

I would have thought a small vice was essential for model work.

You can get something for as little as £10

 

It will make your drill bits last longer. :jester:

 

Keith

Edited by melmerby
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