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Jacks Workbench - A Return to Service


Jack P

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By the end of the night I hope to have an update - I do apologize for my absence!

 

No need to apologize Jack, I can remember being your age and there were plenty of " other things " going on to easily distract me :whistle: :D .

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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Hello jack,

Wow, your work is superb and the weathering is amazing, i could look at it all day, picking out all the small fine detail, well done to you.

There was a parkside O gauge kit at an exhibition once, I wish I bought it, because you have inspired me to have a go at some O gauge wagons soon.

FairPlay to you having a go at the brass, (I have brass sides sitting on the workbench at home, but I'm scared to go near them)

Keep up the good work and I will be following this thread with interest.

Many thanks

Nelson

(Don't worry, its teacher training today, I'm not bunking off)

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No need to apologize Jack, I can remember being your age and there were plenty of " other things " going on to easily distract me :whistle: :D .

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

Haha, You know it! Well I'm back and I have a plan!

 

Hello jack,

Wow, your work is superb and the weathering is amazing, i could look at it all day, picking out all the small fine detail, well done to you.

There was a parkside O gauge kit at an exhibition once, I wish I bought it, because you have inspired me to have a go at some O gauge wagons soon.

FairPlay to you having a go at the brass, (I have brass sides sitting on the workbench at home, but I'm scared to go near them)

Keep up the good work and I will be following this thread with interest.

Many thanks

Nelson

(Don't worry, its teacher training today, I'm not bunking off)

 

Hey Nelson!

 

Thank you very much. The more I think about how easy the signal was to build, the more I think I may just need a better soldering iron - I'm ready to try again. Parkside kit's are probably the best starter kit's for O gauge, as they come with everything you need minus paint, glue and tools. I don't live in the UK so i'm not concerned if you're commenting on my thread at 9:34pm! ;)

 

 

Just a small teaser, got a wee bit done tonight, will hopefully have more from now on - Noticed that I will need to paint the coupling hook pocket cream again (i'm rusty)

 

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Jack

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Working on it as we speak Jon (aka Signal-master) :)

 

 

It's just a little test piece, it's not that bright just looks it with the lights on! Could use some improvement though!

 

I'll head out tomorrow and get some sawdust and some more pva, to make ballast. In the mean-time here's a fence I knocked up last night. Wonder if the fence owner will ever get around to replacing the broken post.....

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Jack

Hi

The  fence looks good. But if it is a Sourthern boundary fence it should have 7 wires I do believe.

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Hi

The  fence looks good. But if it is a Sourthern boundary fence it should have 7 wires I do believe.

 

I had to remove the fence, as it was a scale 8ft high, and i'm not sure what it was keeping out or in! I wil do another one with more wires soon, will just need to make a master post!

 

Jack

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With concrete fence posts, they may initially run the wires through the holes in the post, but on replacing the wires they are more likely to be run along the side of the post, held by bent wire stirrups through the holes. Much easier than trying to thread it through the holes, but I'm not sure if easier to model. If the posts are metal, than the wires can be soldered, and easy to simulate the thin, galvanised intermediate spacer posts, generally two of them between the concrete ones (and not driven into the ground). Generally, the posts are inside the boundary wires.

 

Best wishes,

 

Ray

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1380160_10202042025434955_1615172161_n.j

 

Managed to spray the roof and fix a few things, still have to weather though, not sure how dirty these got in traffic, so will need to find some pics!

 

 

More soon, hopefully

 

Jack

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Bit of an up and down night, the up was that It was calm enough for me to weather the insulated van,

 

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Then, the down -

 

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The airbrush had a fit and spit a giant blob of paint right in the middle of the back of the van... no problem right? Well, wrong, I tried to get rid of it with thinner, which lead to me smearing the back of the van with brown paint.  I masked it up and sprayed it with black primer, to be followed by grey primer. The only issue is, i've run out of the cream colour I used, and the frame/track dirt colour I used. Drama! I'm not sure what i'm going to do, as the kit only came with one set of transfers, so if i was to take the paint off and start again, I would need to do the larger SR transfers...

 

 

 

Anyway, while I figure out what to do with that, these are sitting on my workbench until I get a new soldering iron (yes, It's time to give brass another go!)

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ATB, more soon

 

 

Jack

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Wow, Paul, that's one dirty van! Is it also a parkside kit?

 

I've decided to strip mine down completely and re-paint, what's the best thing to use to do said stripping (of acrylic paint), without damaging the plastic/glue? (general question)

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Yes, it is the Parkside SR Meat Van kit.  

 

Having stripped the paint off my Brass 44xx when I built that, I opted for the easy way out because the van kit is plastic as you say.  I do not not know the answer to your question either.  May be worth search RMWeb to see if that topic has been discussed before and if not, post up a separate question in RMweb→ Modelling Zone→ Skills & Knowledge Centre→ Weathering, Painting & Transfers

 

Try this thread: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/33168-paint-stripping-a-plastic-body/

 

 

Hiya Paul,

 

After trying much, i've submersed it in Meths, which seems to be doing the trick, I will take it out at around lunchtime tomorrow and see how much I can scrub off. Then it's time to fix up the broken details and re-paint.

 

On a side note, I really like the parkside kits, every one i've built has gone together really well, i'm keen to try my hand at a slaters kit - how would you rate them?

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I recently had to strip the paint off a lot of white metal kits and after trying vinegar and oven cleaner the thing that worked best was a mixture of Dettol and water - worked a treat and wasn't toxic/dangerous in any way.

 

Don't know if you get that down your way mind........ 

 

Dettol? We do! However I had none to hand, so risking it all I left it in a tub of meths for a few days, the result was good, if not great. Paint = off, glue = disolved! Which is perfect, because I hadn't done a great job on some of the joins. However the whitemetal vaccum pipes needed to be disposed of, I don't suppose anyone knows where to get spares/ brass ones?

 

 

I personally rate Slaters to be as good, if not slightly better than Parkside.  Some of the plastic mouldings can be small and fragile.  Dependent upon the kit, they can also contain:

  • lost way brass castings, which have to be removed from the spue and then fettled up
  • etched brass parts, some that need forming and then soldering

 

 

I will be attempting the BY van next I think! Will be interesting to see how I can mix up the malachite from tamyia acrylics.

 

Something different on the workbench at the moment. Not much progress made, as i'm unsure of how to push forward

 

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Drawing kindly provided to me by a member of another forum. I had thought soldered frame with sheeting applied over it. suggestions welcomed!

 

Jack

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 Mine is finished in the 1948 'Ashford' photo series style; SR brown, but BR(S) lettering.  I humbly offer it as a comparison to your excellent model.

 

 

In the 1980s I came across a retired guy who had been a paint shop foreman in Ashford Works.  He related that after WW2 there were acute shortages of materials for paint.  Then it was mixed on site from the raw ingredients.  Apparently the shade of 'Wagon Brown' varied considerably.  To prevent big changes the modus operandi was to top up the main batch.  HTH

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I will be attempting the BY van next I think! Will be interesting to see how I can mix up the malachite from tamyia acrylics.

 

 

 

Jack

 

Morning Jack,

 

You will enjoy building the BY van, a little more complex but well within your capabilities. As you can see I have finished mine in carmine.

 

post-7101-0-52167300-1381659956.jpg

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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Jack,

 

  1. Try e-mailing Parkside Dundas to see if they will post spares to New Zealand.  In the past they have been helpful with spares sent within the UK.
  2. Are there no stockists of Phoenix - Precision Paint paint over there?  They make both the pre & post war malachite shades.  

 

 

Paul,

 

1: Haven't been in touch with parkside, but I will try and make my own - failing that I will be in touch with them.

2: No suppliers here, which is annoying, from memory someone does an aerosol can of post-war malachite. I will see if I can get that!

 

 

 

 

In the 1980s I came across a retired guy who had been a paint shop foreman in Ashford Works.  He related that after WW2 there were acute shortages of materials for paint.  Then it was mixed on site from the raw ingredients.  Apparently the shade of 'Wagon Brown' varied considerably.  To prevent big changes the modus operandi was to top up the main batch.  HTH

 

 

Thanks bigbee! Sounds just like my operation!

 

 

Morning Jack,

 

You will enjoy building the BY van, a little more complex but well within your capabilities. As you can see I have finished mine in carmine.

 

attachicon.gifP1060241-1.JPG

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

 

 

Very nice Martyn, I would like to build up a rake of coaches from the slaters range at some point!

 

A small update today, After stripping down the wagon I have primed it and fixed it up, totally re-built the buffers too. I have taken care not to get paint in any of the bearings and made sure the brakes are 'off' enough for the wagon to roll freely, which it does nicely. It's now waiting for details before further painting;

 

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And there was some 'Good news posters' up around uni this week!

 

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Three day weekend! Woo :locomotive:

 

More soon!

 

Jack

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This is very good Jack. Would it not be better to weather after the transfers are applied, then they too get same look.

 

Hey N15, I've only weathered the frames, and only slightly. Usually I would weather after transfers, but as these were my last set, I didn't want to risk it!

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Evening all,

 

A few pictures of some of the subtle weathering I was talking about, also oil around the axleboxes, you can also sort of see the preshading I did around the doors, next time I will do it in-between the planks too!

 

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Next up you can see the first part of my Redhill project, the buffers for the end of the coal track, built from a Ragstone model kit, Just needs sleepers and it will be ready to go!

 

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Hopefully more soon!

 

Jack

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Jack,

 

The quality of your work belies your youth.  Very impressive.  Many of us struggle to achieve that after years in this game...... :sad_mini2:    Keep it up!!

 

Oh I dunno, I sort of blunder along, trying to emulate what you guys do. Sometimes I get good results and sometimes I don't. I keep learning though, from those around me and my own mistakes, that's what matters! :)

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