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Building a L.T Battery Electric Loco by The Model Shop now Ragley Models


mozzer models
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I bought two of these kits (White Metal) about 6 months ago, and while constructing them was great, and the detail like the rivets was very good. The kit just doesn't run. I put two tendshodo motors on it because of the weight and pulling a load was putting too much strain on the one motor. I didn't silver solder - I just super-glued mine together.

 

I was told to avoid the resin ones like the plague because they all bow and "banana" after a few months.

 

The resin motor bogie collar is not calibrated to run with 3rd rail. Mine catches all the time and In the end I have to to remove it to see where it was/ wasn't fouling.

 

I also ordered some GP wagons but they didn't turn up for 8 months and I had no contact from the business about the status of my order, I had to contact him and even then it was "It will be next month", same thing next month. I cancelled in the end out of principle.

 

I painted them in blue and they come up very nice. Shame about the running IMO.

Sorry if this sounds a silly question but with the spuds, did you cut of the projecting sections from each axel? If left they will foul the bogie frame and won't run well. I'm planning to use a battery loco with a pair of spuds.

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A nice video of an interesting layout. I like the flash as they go through the point work, Dan.

 

If those SPUD motors work for you then there is absolutely no need to change anything. It goes to show that what one modeller swears at, another will swear by (to rearrange an older saying slightly!!!).  :)

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A nice video of an interesting layout. I like the flash as they go through the point work, Dan.

 

If those SPUD motors work for you then there is absolutely no need to change anything. It goes to show that what one modeller swears at, another will swear by (to rearrange an older saying slightly!!!).   :)

 

In relation to the problems with DCC there is a diifference ,in that Daniel uses 2 Tenshodos with one DCC Chip in one car where as I was using 1 Tenshodo + 1 DCC in 2 cars. 

 

With regards the gears stripping I first experienced this many years ago with a pair of Walthers Washingtom Metro Cars. Removing the gearbox protruding sections will help in that this will make it easier to lubricate the gears and thus prolong the life of the gears however they will crack and fail in the same way in time as old Farish gears did in the past.

 

XF

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Thanks, yes I think this is the case of one having problems one having success. I did invest in some black beetles a while ago but I never got round to fitting them because it looked like to much hassle! I may be wrong of course!

 

Has anyone by chance build some GP wagons and had any success? Id like to know how easy they are to build, what the quality is and do they run OK?

Daniel - I had a GP wagon as a Xmas present it does not look too difficult to build but you will need to get the sides square amd maybe add some weight.you also have to purcahse thje 9mm wheels separately.

 

I have not started yet my kit yet, so if you want to come the club on a Monday night I can build it then. I should be there tomorrow as long a we do not get a lot of ice - BMW's great cars but are rear wheel drive!

 

XF

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I was told to avoid the resin ones like the plague because they all bow and "banana" after a few months.

 

The body was slightly twisted. I was able to straighten it just by fixing to the chassis (there didn't seem to be a way of doing this)Some brass across the insides of the body with nuts soldered inside, bolts from the underside, all has stayed in shape so far.
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On my tenshodos, I removed the keeperplates, drilled them where the gears are and re-attached so i could put inside easily tamiya grease.

 

Each of my whitemetal battery locos seems to work well but then i must admit i havnt given them a chance to run much, maybe i should put them to test at the clubs running session in 2 weeks with all its gradients!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

 

That battery loco looks good although I am stuck in the 50s/60s so my stuff will be in the unlined lake livery.

 

Re the 50' GP wagon. I have just put one together (0 gauge) and it went together easily, however, I followed instructions to turn the body upside down and weight it to take out the slight bow in the middle but the mouldings were slightly curved on my one so it still looks like it sags a little in the middle and also there was a slight twist in the whole body which doesn't really show but I know it's there. I will be getting at least one or two more and hopefully a couple of the 1923 standard stock cars to have as ballast motors. Battery locos after that as funds allow! Hopefully someone will do the 0 gauge battery loco and post pictures. 

post-4944-0-87729900-1360085971_thumb.jpg

post-4944-0-73966300-1360086038_thumb.jpg

post-4944-0-27606300-1360086417_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 year later...
  • 3 years later...

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but there seemed little point starting a new one...

 

I'm considering purchasing the Radley Models LT battery loco kit, and I have a couple of questions.

 

Available in whitemetal only (I don't know what happened to the resin kit, but I believe it was prone to bowing), what would be the best glue to use? The castings look quite chunky and will have a decent edge to glue unlike a brass kit which is obviously very thin. I know folk will say it's best soldered, but that's probably a little way above my ability, especially whitemetal. I'm happy soldering droppers to track and rail to copperclad at baseboard joins but soldering a whitemetal kit may be a step too far...

 

Also, the model will be finished in the earlier crimson livery. Am I correct in thinking that the correct colour to use is Midland Crimson Lake? I remember reading that these battery locos were painted Crimson Lake just to use up the vast stock of paint that the depot carried for the Pannier tanks. whether that's an urban myth or not, I don't know.

 

Thanks, Pete.

Edited by Pete 75C
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I have used 5-minute Araldite on all of the white metal kits from Radley that I have done ... in fact, for nearly all of the white metal kits I have ever built from many different manufacturers. 

Just exercise some patience while building the kits, allowing each stage to set properly before doing the next bit. Mix only small quantities of the glue at any one time.

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Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but there seemed little point starting a new one...

 

I'm considering purchasing the Radley Models LT battery loco kit, and I have a couple of questions.

 

Available in whitemetal only (I don't know what happened to the resin kit, but I believe it was prone to bowing), what would be the best glue to use? The castings look quite chunky and will have a decent edge to glue unlike a brass kit which is obviously very thin. I know folk will say it's best soldered, but that's probably a little way above my ability, especially whitemetal. I'm happy soldering droppers to track and rail to copperclad at baseboard joins but soldering a whitemetal kit may be a step too far...

 

Also, the model will be finished in the earlier crimson livery. Am I correct in thinking that the correct colour to use is Midland Crimson Lake? I remember reading that these battery locos were painted Crimson Lake just to use up the vast stock of paint that the depot carried for the Pannier tanks. whether that's an urban myth or not, I don't know.

 

Thanks, Pete.

Going back in time to WW2, most [if not all] ballast motors, battery locos, electric locos [L8 & L9] and pilot motor cars were painted grey. Similarly most of the service departmental rolling stock were also painted grey - a relic perhaps of the Metropolitan's favourite rolling stock/wagon colour! Similarly, the Met Bo-Bos were also painted grey.

In the early '50s, the Met Bo-Bos were painted in LMS maroon and the pilot motor cars etc were repainted in a colour called "unlined lake" which was a deep almost chocolate maroon. The closest I have ever come to it is airbrushing a top coat of LMS maroon over a red oxide primed battery loco.. You get a totally different effect from say, when using a white or grey primer. Panniers, Bo-Bos, Met E, F, X etc., classes would have been high gloss and lighter i.e., use a white or grey primer and of course gold/black lined. The use of unlined lake predated the use of ex-GWR panniers by a good 9-10 years.

By LT's 50th anniversary celebrations [a weekend at the beginning of July 1983 wandering around both Chiswick Works and Acton Works never to be forgotten], many of the service locos were being painted in an all over bright yellow. "AA Yellow" [available in rattle cans from Halfords] is an excellent match IMO.

If you want to see what unlined lake looks like - Go on one of the Museum Depot open weekends and gaze at the Electric Sleet loco. I would suggest practicing with a couple of postcard size pieces of plastic card - Prime one red oxide and one light grey and then spray them both with LMS Maroon. You will be quite surprised gobsmacked at the difference when dry.

Edited by ted675
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I have a can of a colour labelled "LT Bullock Maroon", which is a deep purple maroon colour. I think this might be the correct colour for the works stock. I'll have to dig the can out to see whose it was, but I think, from memory, that it was Cherry Paints.

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I have used 5-minute Araldite on all of the white metal kits from Radley that I have done ... in fact, for nearly all of the white metal kits I have ever built from many different manufacturers. 

 

Just exercise some patience while building the kits, allowing each stage to set properly before doing the next bit. Mix only small quantities of the glue at any one time.

 

I agree,rapid Araldite is an essential tool in my tool box along with Frogtape for holding bits together while it cures.

 

                      Ray.

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I have a can of a colour labelled "LT Bullock Maroon", which is a deep purple maroon colour. I think this might be the correct colour for the works stock. I'll have to dig the can out to see whose it was, but I think, from memory, that it was Cherry Paints.

It is SRman, but it is quite a transparent colour. You'll find that the undercoat colour makes an awful lot of difference to the end result. Use the two postcard match trial I suggested at post #43

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I clean up the white metal parts and use super glue. It is not robust but it you are careful it should be fine. Araldite might be better. I hate soldering too but may do a rough join with the super glue then use w little solder later.

 

My T stock DM recently fell apart so not happy!

 

I thought Phil still had had a few resin? I need a metal (with the motors in!) and a resin one unpowered. It will also be easier to adapt the sides to reflect the more recent image in yellow.

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Thanks very much for the replies. I'll be looking to reproduce a pair of battery locos in 1970s condition, see below:

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/8634908999/

 

It does look very brown, but perhaps a few layers of dirt have something to do with that! I had thought to use a red oxide primer below the topcoat, but will test grey as well, thanks for the advice.

Looking at the Radley Models website, it does appear that only whitemetal is available, but I would get in touch before placing any order. I have heard a few stories of the resin bodyshell warping, so that did put me off a bit. Incidentally, I had thought to use a pair of Black Beetles in one loco and have the other unpowered. I have no idea what the total weight of both locos would be though.

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Pete 75c - All resin can warp - though it is far more common in unbuilt kits than once built. Perhaps the reason is storage and pressure put on in storage. However, there is a simple solution and that is: Put the warped item in the sink and gradually pour water that is still very hot [but has gone off the boil] on to it. The object will pop back into its proper shape. 

If you are concerned, give Phil Radley a ring and he'll describe how he does it. 

I've done this with Radley Models resin kits a couple of times and it works like a dream. Others in the 7mm world have done the same with his 30T Flat Wagon and have reported that it works well.

 

Happy New Year

Edited by ted675
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Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but there seemed little point starting a new one...

 

I'm considering purchasing the Radley Models LT battery loco kit, and I have a couple of questions.

 

Available in whitemetal only (I don't know what happened to the resin kit, but I believe it was prone to bowing), what would be the best glue to use? The castings look quite chunky and will have a decent edge to glue unlike a brass kit which is obviously very thin. I know folk will say it's best soldered, but that's probably a little way above my ability, especially whitemetal. I'm happy soldering droppers to track and rail to copperclad at baseboard joins but soldering a whitemetal kit may be a step too far...

 

 

Thanks, Pete.

 

Pete

 

 There are now new superglues available which are far superior than the older ones, the window fitters used one type and the kitchen fitter used another, both where you put glue on one half of the joint and use an activator on the other part, a much stronger joint results than the normal superglues. The glue used by the kitchen fitter was more akin to the superglue gels, the other thinner, you could then use an epoxy glue to strengthen the joint if necessary

 

I know you said you do not like soldering, but the best joints are when using solder, especially with the larger heavier metal castings. I was shown a tip for using low melt solder, not only does it work but with practice works on small parts

 

You need 70 degree solder and liquid flux. I use an Antex 25 watt iron especially with large castings. Clean the joint, then join the 2 parts together, plenty of flux on the joint, the important part is to cut a small piece of solder and put it on the joint, not on the tip of the iron because by the time the solder reaches the job all the chemicals which allow the solder to flow and fuse have evaporated away. The other important part is to have a clean tip and go in and out as quickly as possible, if not fully fused go back in again for a split second longer. The large castings become a heat sink, so less likely to melt, remember they stay hotter for longer, so let the solder solidify plus the metal will be hot for a bit

 

The other good thing about 70 degree solder is that if you need to take the piece apart, just put it in the steam of a kettle and clean the solder off. This kit with its large castings is the ideal piece to learn how to solder whitemetal with its large castings

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  • 2 years later...

I've got a couple of these on the workbench, I'm no fan of pickup on just the motor bogie, so I've added pickups on the trailer bogie as well, but being a whitemetal chassis with relatively small wheels, experience with a previous one suggests there are plenty of places for a short.

batt1.jpg.9141261905e1c2f001f8f911764db0e6.jpg

 

I've ground out a small section above the power bogie contacts to try and avoid shorts

batt3.jpg.212007418232644139c4379961dc7f11.jpg

 

 

A bit of copper-clad with 4 holes tapped 10ba. I've cleaned the copper off two opposing quarters to increase air gaps

IMG_20201220_135634.jpg.998346fe87a809930a562b55b0776272.jpg

 

two of the screws will mount the pad to the bogie and two will provide a pivot to the pickups, i've also drilled a clearance hole in the bogie beneath the pivot as well, this was filled with epoxy adhesive to add more isolation

IMG_20201220_140547.jpg.6d39911b7dfb7722feeea28ff36efeee.jpg

 

I should have taken one wheel off each axle and slipped heatshrink over the axle, but didn't think of that before building the bogie, an alternative would be to slip heatshrink over the pickup, which is what I've done on the second, and will do on this one when I next take the copperclad board off.

batt4.jpg.0bce0e664b3660a7c145490b45bdf15d.jpg

 

and a simple plug and socket to allow the bogies to be removed from the chassis.

batt2.jpg.4b56179ed3c69db61b36fa6890cdb3ba.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by jonhall
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