Tim Horn Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hi David, I'd go for the second one, with just the headers. Looks much neater than the first (mortar lines), and the third will be a pain if you cut 3mm MDF, remember the laser cuts as a 'V' so it might be noticeable on the interlocking brickwork. The thickness of the material relates to the size of the brick you wish to make interlocking, so a header will come out around 1.3-4mm if you exclude the mortar line. Give it a go and see how you get on. Cheers Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beatty 139 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 I have used two layers on my larger brick buildings, for a couple of reasons. Firstly I find the thickness of MDF can vary quite a bit and its often not what it claims to be. Buy making a dead size inner layer if there is some variation in thickness from scale to material on the headders this can be lost in the painting, Secondly the inner layer can have the main window frames etc cut into them giving the model depth. The attached picture is of a GCR Weigh office and was built like that, I was quite pleased by the way the sash windows came out. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted January 21, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2013 Thanks for that advice. I had a go at the 3mm MDF version with the stretchers interlocked today and it is wonderful how the walls just slid together and the completed walls then fitted perfectly into the cut out base. Not sure when I'm going to get to paint it - too damn cold to go outside with an aerosol and I don't want to do this inside and stink the house out at the moment. The completed 'Kit' of parts The assembled hut More pictures on my blog posting.. thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beatty 139 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 I don't know what thought you have given to roofing, but I have found some success with cutting strips of inkjet transparencey sheet on the laser cutter the rough side is an ideal key for painting and if you engrave your slate lines on the roof structure, you can glue each strip in place using the engraved lines below as a guide and it makes a nice neet job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted January 25, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 25, 2013 I had a go at the 1.5mm MDF version today and I'm pretty sure now this is the way to go. More pictures over on my blog. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/186/entry-10996-laser-cutting-now-with-15mm-mdf/ David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted February 9, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2013 Please can I have some help on painting brickwork, I'm at the end of my tether! see my blog David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thesmudge Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I use a laser cutter most days at work, I have made a few items for the layout with it. I tend the make shells out of 2mm or 3mm MDF which I clad, the corners are Combe joints so that it is very quick and easy to assemble. I also cut out the forklift truck form layers of MDF. Buildings are again 3mm MDF shells, the platform edges are laser cut MDF. Billboard cut from many parts of .8mm HIP sheet. Tunnel entrance was cut from MDF covered in sublimation transferred brick texture. (also the wagon in shot is 3d printed, work has a 3d printer also). I cut this walkway and shed from MDF and HIPs plastic sheet, if left in the loft I have noticed that thin MDF does distort due to the temperature and humidity of the loft environment even when painted. 3mm cast acrylic is great for making parts that will not be seen or parts that could be etched, I made this point switch board, to join acrylic I use Tensol cement. Also controller holders from 3mm clear acrylic that are heated and bent to shape. Plus I make many other things on the layout that I wont bore you all with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beatty 139 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 I was a little bored today as my other half was at a meeting so I now have another small 10mm Scale building, still needs more work on the painting, filling etc. Drawn on AutoCad Lt and then cut from 3.5mm MDF, 2mm MDF, 1.6mm ply and 0.8mm ply to give close to scale thickness of the building sections Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium finelines Posted June 16, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 16, 2013 Rather than start a new topic I will resurrect this one. The main question is does anybody know where to get laser board? This is polyester impregnated Kraft. It is similar to stencil cutting sheet or the stuff used in electrical insulation. I been disappointed with my machine as a piece of production equipment, but as a modelmaking toy it's great. I mostly use 2mm mdf from the local builders merchant. There said they could get 1mm but I would have to buy 700 quids worth! I use the 4d modelshop 1mm and I do think it is higher quality. Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beatty 139 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Hi Finelines, Can't help you with the boards but laser friendly ply in the miniture sizes 0.8mm, 1.0mm 1.5mm is now in the UK. Hanson Plywood in Halifax have had it produced for them, they are wholesalers as such but I know quite a few of us on here are ordering it, you might find it's worth contacting Grainge and Hodder if they will resell in small quantities. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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