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spray varnish


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  • RMweb Gold

Good evening

                      decided to have a go at one one the free download printable kits and noted that its advised to spray the printout to prevent the inks running etc. Having purchased a small can of artist spray varnish I was wondering what others used to seal the printouts.

Mike

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I think it was Chubber of this parish that suggested using the waterproofing spray that you can get from Lidls, I have used this after I have finished the model to seal it, but to be honest I have never used anything prior to building and have not had any problems.

 

I would imagine that you would have to be careful with some of the sprays and fixatives that it does not stop PVA type glues from working, I have not had any problems with inks running, but I do use a fine tip applicator for the PVA and cheap glue sticks for fixing the prints to card.

 

But this could vary with different inks with different printers.

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I have to admit I've only tried this with a Superquick kit, still it gave great results, and that is to spray a 50:50 solution of Humbrol Matt varnish : Thinners (I use the model shop stuff in little blue and white marked tins although I believe any thinners will do e.g. the stuff from B&Q)applied with a badger airbrush.

 

Okay, this could be a problem if you don't own an airbrush, however, I suppose you could always apply it with a fine brush as it's so thin. Why not give it a go on a spare piece of printed paper/card? I think the tin of varnish was less than a couple of quid and you've probably already got thinners in your shed.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Jonte

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I have tried various ways of sealing models. I have had good results with the ghiant matt inkjet fixative and also with a matt clear varnish applied from a standard aerosol can. I have also brush painted the printed surface with diluted PVA glue,and also a household named matt varnish. I do not own an airbrush so cannot comment of these. Once sealed flocks and other products can be added to the outside of the models using a waterbased glue with no problems with the inks bleeding into one an other. They can also be painted using waterbased paints with no problems.

 

Now for a bit of tounge in cheek.

 

The best way to seal your models is to not bother and in most cases use genuine inks. The majorty of these inks are waterproof, or so say, Epson, HP, Cnon and the Ricoh gels printers. This may be more expensive, but the results are so much better, and the colours are better to, especially when replacing the cartridges.

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  • RMweb Gold

 Thanks for the replys, I have tried a artists spray and found it leaves a white deposit on the surface of the card. Ref type of ink I have been using compatable inks but due to my printer giving up  a few days ago I will be using genuine ones with the new model when it comes so will have a play and see what happens

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  • 3 weeks later...

I  wasn't quite satisfied with my artist protection varnish.

After reading the article on this link: http://www.railroad-...?TOPIC_ID=39010 I decided to try water paint varnish from Talens, after reading their users guide.

Their water paint varnish can also used for varnishing ink. 

I always use a inkjet printer. 

 

After drying you can weather your model wit pastels and then use a general protection varnish.

 

But as already mentioned before: try out and use the way that suits you best.

 

Job

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Guest Jim Read

Hello,

 

I tried Artists varnish it didn't work, I tried Artists fixative it didn't work

.

I then came across some stuff called Media Range Protective Spray they claim that it will be water repellent and stop UV light fading the ink, I use the cheapest inks I can find.

It was only 5.69 Euros + postage so I thought well I'll give it a try and to my surprise it works, where I'd soaked scenic scatter right up to a building it didn't make a nasty splodge of the ink and it's not faded either.

 

Here's the supplier: http://www.damrotech.com/product_info.php?products_id=64639&language=en

 

There are others Google will find them.

 

It's Reely Grate stuff

 

Jim

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Guest Jim Read

Hello Gaz,

 

I've used hairspray on some Pastels I did and it did seal it and stop dust falling ...... but the pong was something else !!! :-)

 

Jim

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As per Chubber, I use Lidl waterproofing spray, and genuine HP ink cartridges - however, I have found on occasion that the colour seems to take on a reddish hue after spraying. I now use Winsor and Newtons brush-on matt varnish, which seems to work. (for me, anyhow)

 

I think really its a case of experimenting with all suggestions - there are so many combinations of inks, paper quality, types of spray, type of application, etc.

 

I agree with the pervading smell of hairspray... couldn't work on the layout for a week!

 

Shaun.

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Experimented yesterday, found a large tin of Wilkinson's mat acrylic varnish, coated my latest building (a watertower) and it covered fine, dried quickly, nice mat finish which takes watercolours and ground pastels for weathering well.

 

I applied it with a large soft brush, it was a bit scary as it goes on a milky white colour, but soon dries clear, It also works through he airbush with a bit of thinning (water) but its too cold in my shed for that.

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Experimented yesterday, found a large tin of Wilkinson's mat acrylic varnish, coated my latest building (a watertower) and it covered fine, dried quickly, nice mat finish which takes watercolours and ground pastels for weathering well.

 

I applied it with a large soft brush, it was a bit scary as it goes on a milky white colour, but soon dries clear, It also works through he airbush with a bit of thinning (water) but its too cold in my shed for that.

 

Another good point to mention about applying a coat of varnish especially were kits are concerned, is that any wet excess glue can be cleaned off without it staining the print.

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Experimented yesterday, found a large tin of Wilkinson's mat acrylic varnish, coated my latest building (a watertower) and it covered fine, dried quickly, nice mat finish which takes watercolours and ground pastels for weathering well.

 

I applied it with a large soft brush, it was a bit scary as it goes on a milky white colour, but soon dries clear, It also works through he airbush with a bit of thinning (water) but its too cold in my shed for that.

 

Coincidentally, I use that as well! One problem that I found with it though is when taking photos, it does tend to have a reflective sheen as certain angles. Good stuff though, and no obvious bleeding of ink.

Not tried it with the airbrush - I'll have a go, when my shed warms up as well!

 

Shaun.

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I had the sheen problem to start with, I had decanted an amount from the main tin into a smaller container, what I found was that I needed to give the big tin a thorough (more than 5 minutes) stir, this seems to have got rid of the sheen, I assume that the matting agent needs to be mixed well.

 

Melmerby:

 

I have not used genuine inks in Epson or Brothers for years, I buy a set of the four Brother ones from Amazon for less than half of what you pay for a single original.

 

You can get some colour variance, but I just make sure I print enough for the current project in one go.

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  • RMweb Premium

Melmerby:

 

I have not used genuine inks in Epson or Brothers for years, I buy a set of the four Brother ones from Amazon for less than half of what you pay for a single original.

 

You can get some colour variance, but I just make sure I print enough for the current project in one go.

 

I use a JR refill kit for my Canon printer (unfortunately the ink monitor doesn't work after them being refilled!) but I use Jet Tec cartridges (the ink monitor does work) in my Epson photo printer as 8 cost not much more than the cost of one original and I can't get (or haven't seen) a full set of 8 colours as a refill kit.

 

Keith

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I've been using a HP 3-1 series for about 4 years or so now and although I hate to admit defeat, I got totally fed up with using refills from Cartridge World etc, either they ran out quickly or had problems with colours. Even the new cheaper alternatives from pc world were crap.

 

Because I have been designing and making my own N-Gauge transfers I wanted reliability and quality, so I bent my wallet last November and seccumbed to purchasinga pack of genuine ink cartridges! :O

 

To be fair for 40 or so quid not only did I get good reliabilty with my prints and colours, they are still going strong after many pages of printing. I think for peace of mind I will definitely buy the genuine cartridges again when these expire.

 

But I can see why we all try the alternatives though, how can retailers justify the price of cartridges being nearly the same price of a printer!

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  • RMweb Premium

 

 

But I can see why we all try the alternatives though, how can retailers justify the price of cartridges being nearly the same price of a printer!

The genuine Canon cartridges at RRP are actually more than the price of the printer!

 

Keith

 

EDIT: I think at the lower end of the printer market the printers are actually sold as loss leaders for a continuing after market in replacement cartridges, which the manufacturers hope to be part of.

"Chipping" the cartridges so replacements don't always work the same as originals seems to be part of it! E.g. ink monitor not working etc.

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