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Radley MET Dreadnought Coach Kit


Jeff Smith
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Attached are a few extras for the kits which includes the one piece stretcher bar section (they are such a fiddle to make) which is correct for the Dreadnoughts and Saloon Stock and different to the later T stock ones.

 

Also is a sprue of vacuum hoses for intermediate and brake ends.

 

I'm about to start work on the Brake end.....

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Actually I didn't find making the stretcher too difficult. The original kit had just the posts (queenposts?) it wasn't too hard to thread a brass wire through together with a small tube for the turnbuckle, then bend and glue.

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The stretcher bar sections are from the original kits and will be part of the revised Radley Models kit due to be released over the coming months.

 

Jeff, I take my hat off to you! They aren't too bad in fairness but if one is revising a kit I thought it would be best to try and make life easier for those with less experience then ourselves.

 

Mind you it all adds up, I'm planning 2x6 coach trains of T stock, 5 dreadnoughts, 5 cars of 1905-1921 Circle Saloon Stock and 4 cars of 1906 Saloon stock all with the stretcher bars!

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  • 7 months later...

These coaches look a lot easier to make than the previous version. I would say that for those wanting Dreadnoughts to go with their new Bo-Bo's and if they fancy trying their hand at coach construction these are about as easy as they can be. Radley also has a building service......

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That was my plan Jeff. The current kits are a bit of a fiddle and as Metroland says rather heavy. A scale length train would be difficult I'm guessing for the Heljan loco to pull. These will replace the current range of dreadnoughts however. Kit parts will be available however so a while.

 

Most of the kit is resin except the buffers, stretcher bars, bogies and vacuum pipes.

 

I haven't weighed them yet as they are en route from the manufacturer but they should be far lighter than the metal sided ones.

 

As they will be resin, for those that want to modify then further such as blank off door mouldings, change the door handles and have windows open can do it far easier.

 

The coach end grab handles and window bars will also be separate as they probably would cast too well in resin.

 

As soon as I get some I'll put up some photos.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Just had a look at the Radley site.

 

At present it looks like the 6 compartment brake is the only resin body kit currently available, the rest look like the original white metal ones.

 

Will these all be eventually replaced with resin bodied ones, as the white metal bodied ones are too heavy to run as a 5 car rake?

 

I can see a couple of 5 car sets being purchased - need to start saving...

 

All that is then needed is Galtea and/or Mayflower (and a H class loco of course)!

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L of N

 

I always have trouble fitting glazing to anything other than styrene coach sides.  Also I had fitted brass T handles and grab handles which protruded into the sides close to the windows.  I can't remember what method I used on the Radley resin coach but it may have been double-sided tape on the inside with the apertures carefully cut out and individual panes attached to clear the brass handle ends..... 

 

What method are you planning?

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If it is of any help, I use Micro Krystal Klear to stick all of my kit glazing into place. It is actually a glazing medium itself, It sticks well to most surfaces, dries clear and retains a little flexibility to reduce the impact of knocks or careless handling. It starts off as a milky white PVA-style liquid and can be thinned with water. Any excess can also be wiped away with a damp cloth.

For applications like car, bus, truck or locomotive windscreens, it can also fill any small gaps if your cutting and shaping of these items is less than perfect.

I'm sure there are other brands of similar materials too.

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Yes a tricky one. If I remember with my metal T stock I super glued the flat glazing in place but with only a tiny dab here and there so it doesn't mist up. I may try the glue and glaze stuff.

 

I'll let you know soon when I do it.

Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze is quite expensive, and 50ml comes in a flattened bottle 7cms tall (not counting applicator cap). Their R/C Modellers craft glue is much cheaper and comes in a 112g 10cms tall cylindrical bottle. Its stated purpose is for aircraft canopies and windows and being able to withstand take-off and landing shocks. I bought both ten years ago and the only difference I can discern is that the G n G has a narrow spout to poke into places and be linked to some tubing extensions. I bought all that and wasted my money! All I now use is their large R/C Modellers glue - applied with a cocktail stick or pin for both windows and any other parts where I need a PVA glue. Its also possible to make small windows from it as with the Krystal Klear, though I dont like the "thick specs" effect!

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry it's been a while since an update. The first two samples I painted are included below.

 

I actually used superglue to attach the windows. If you cut the plastic correctly it fits snugly into the compartment. It was easier to do with the 7 comp as there is a larger space between the compartments.

 

I painted the 7 comp in weathered teak and the 9 in LT brown. I'm not too happy with the teak, the early trials came out better!

 

Thankfully on my layout, my dreadnoughts are LT brown.

 

 

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