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How realistic are your models? Photo challenge.


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9 hours ago, Waverley West said:

A care-worn Traffic Services Ltd polybulk passes through Edinburgh Waverley in a Speedlink rake in the late '80s...

 

1839864571_Polybulke.jpg.23468cb71de83a3ba3e3aa2202ae695c.jpg

 

950945361_Polybulkb.jpg.2fbb08a2270af9016a059f074922d5fe.jpg

 

1430231315_Polybulkc.jpg.91b4a5b48b54879001518dffc2c822ab.jpg

 

Oh good grief! That is outstanding. I don't know whether to be inspired or just accept I'll never get anywhere near that good ;)

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On 08/09/2021 at 21:48, Ramblin Rich said:

Oh good grief! That is outstanding. I don't know whether to be inspired or just accept I'll never get anywhere near that good ;)

 

That's very kind, Rich, but please be inspired, rather than dismayed. That was my intention.

 

The weathering of the wagon really wasn't difficult or complicated. It mainly consisted of spraying the wagon with Railmatch enamel aerosols - Sleeper Grime, Frame Dirt, Roof Dirt and Weathered Black. This was then mostly wiped off with kitchen roll, leaving dirt in crevices and wherever it was supposed to be. Always make sure you wipe vertically to mimic the vertical streaking of weathering.

 

This normally produces a good weathering finish in itself, but for this wagon, I wanted to replicate the white staining left by the china clay these wagons carry. To do this, all I did was leave the wagon to properly dry for a day or two and then apply a thin enamel wash of white over the wagon. Leave to dry and, if dissatisfied, simply wipe it off with thinners or wet it with more wash and repeat until you are satisfied.

 

The beauty of enamels is that you get plenty of time to work the paint and it can just be wiped off to start again if you're not happy with the finish. With white washes in particular, it's best to wait until the wash is dry before declaring yourself happy with the finish, as the final appearance is often very different once the wash is dry (much lighter normally).

 

The only potential pitfall is that enamels can dissolve certain tampo printing on models, particularly Bachmann's more recent models. The worst thing that can happen then though is that you have to buy transfers to replace what was there before. 

 

My golden rule is that, as long as you protect the glazing of locos and coaching stock either with masking tape or by removing it, there isn't a lot that can't be undone and simply done again, so give it a try! Pick a cheap item of rolling stock to start with and experiment.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Cheers

Dave

Edited by Waverley West
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On 09/09/2021 at 21:00, Waverley West said:

 

That's very kind, Rich, but pleased be inspired, rather than dismayed. That was my intention.

 

The weathering of the wagon really wasn't difficult or complicated. It mainly consisted of spraying the wagon with Railmatch enamel aerosols - Sleeper Grime, Frame Dirt, Roof Dirt and Weathered Black. This was then mostly wiped off with kitchen roll, leaving dirt in crevices and wherever it was supposed to be. Always make sure you wipe vertically to mimic the vertical streaking of weathering.

 

This normally produces a good weathering finish in itself, but for this wagon, I wanted to replicate the white staining left by the china clay these wagons carry. To do this, all I did was leave the wagon to properly dry for a day or two and then apply a thin enamel wash of white over the wagon. Leave to dry and, if dissatisfied, simply wipe it off with thinners or wet it with more wash and repeat until you are satisfied.

 

The beauty of enamels is that you get plenty of time to work the paint and it can just be wiped off to start again if you're not happy with the finish. With white washes in particular, it's best to wait until the wash is dry before declaring yourself happy with the finish, as the final appearance is often very different once the wash is dry (much lighter normally).

 

The only potential pitfall is that enamels can dissolve certain tampo printing on models, particularly Bachmann's more recent models. The worst thing that can happen then though is that you have to buy transfers to replace what was there before. 

 

My golden rule is that, as long as you protect the glazing of locos and coaching stock either with masking tape or by removing it, there isn't a lot that can't be undone and simply done again, so give it a try! Pick a cheap item of rolling stock to start with and experiment.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Cheers

Dave

 

Your results are superb Dave. Just to confirm, you have not used an airbrush here? I havent got one and am always looking for examples of non-airbrush work. 

 

Excellent stuff. 

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2 hours ago, westernviscount said:

 

Your results are superb Dave. Just to confirm, you have not used an airbrush here? I havent got one and am always looking for examples of non-airbrush work. 

 

Excellent stuff. 


Thanks! Nope, no airbrush was troubled for that job. Much of my weathering is done without an airbrush.

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