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A free-lance GWR themed terminal station building for Bear's End


Chubber

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I needed a booking hall to stand across the end of tracks 'a la' Bodmin but wanted a bit more height. As I like the Watercress Line's Arlesford station  incorporating the Stationmaster's house I had a little play and came up with this building. The adjacent engine shed below was modelled on that at Wallingford  built in the 1900s by a local firm of sub-contractors to a G.W.R standard design, so I decided that the local firm of Rodney, Pole and Perch, Builders and Sanitary Engineers would build this slightly fanciful building which was supposed to reflect the town's pride in it's newly aquired terminus status.

 

Bear's End [formerly Bear's Vale] was a through station until 1868 when the Langport Earthquake  both damaged the western tunnel bore and flooded the valuable seams of Cornish Pasty fillings mined at Wheal Gravy, further west.

 

With the sudden loss of the valuable traffic generated by the refuelling of the coke fired Pasty Baking Trains it became uneconomic for the Bear and Ragged Pasty Railway Company to repair the tunnel. The tunnel was closed and the Station rebuilt as a terminus under the aegis of the G.W.R.  

 

Continued passenger numbers attending the International Morris Meetings, carriage of cattle, oil and allied products to Raven Fuels and Slipper-felt Co.Ltd., and supplies to and from Bear's Vale Snuff and Needle Mills continue to make it worthwhile until the late 1930s, the period in which the layout is set.

 

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A kit of bits, with the original station sign which proved to be out of proportion

 

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I enjoyed playing with the interior, lit by leds, originally designed to shine down from a removable roof through the perspex of the canopy extension, the perspex acted like a fibre optic and shone light everywhere necessitating a rethink and rebuild to the rather untidy current set-up.

 

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Posters etc from the 'shirtbutton era'

 

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windows are made from home drawn and printed self-adhesive labels, glazing bars cut with a sharp scalpel, the same method used for the canopy 'glazing'.

 

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There are three cast-iron span brackets and some columns planned. I intend to make them from mating plastic tube so that they may telescope as necessary to ensure they do touch down on any unevenness of the subsequent platform. Exit gates, a road side small canopy, down pipes etc to add and lots of raw edges to tint. 

 

Hope it's been of interest so far, I'm sad to say the valence is plastic, as will the canopy columns be, but I'll try to remain as faithful to card and paper as possible.

 

Doug

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Always a pleasure to see you buildings. Lovely station with a lot of details.

Still learning from the way you do it.

Did you make the chair your self or did you buy it somewhere.

 

Regards,

Job

 

Hi, Job,

 

Thank you for your kind remarks, the chair is folded up from a thick writing paper 'square' shape and twisted then coated with shellac and painted.

 

 

Lovely jubbley.  Love the blue brick reveals around doors, windows and quoins.  Fantastic internal detail to boot.  What was the build time on this?

 

Thanks, PR,

 

I can't really estimate the hours, just a 1" strip of blue brick corner takes about  92 separate 1mm cuts, then you slip and have to start again!

 

Doug

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  • 2 weeks later...

Brilliant work Chubber, very neat and crisp. Great details too, especially the brick work, and I like the idea of bracing the cardboard shell with stripwood.

This is just the sort of structure I'd like to be building one day.

 

One question though - what scale is this? - looks like 7mm?

 

Steve R

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Hi Doug, that really is lovely.

 

One question though, what glue do you use to glue your walls and triangular tabs together? If it's water-based, do you have any problems with warping?

 

cheers

 

Jason

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Bear's End [formerly Bear's Vale] was a through station until 1868 when the Langport Earthquake  both damaged the western tunnel bore and flooded the valuable seams of Cornish Pasty fillings mined at Wheal Gravy, further west.

Good to see a man who takes historical research seriously. This is why your models are so good: They are based on a real context and it shows.

 

:locomotive:

 

Like Job I was also captivated by the chair. It's just one very small detail in your superb station, but it simply has just the right character of, well, a chair!

 

The canopy is brilliant. I hope to use your glazing technique next time I'm doing something like this. You have really proven its worth.

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Thank you  to every one who has taken the time to post a 'like', thank you Mikkel, from a modeller of your diameter, er, calibre that is praise indeed!

 

Jason, I use a water-resistant P.V.A. like 'Evostik Resin W' for most of my builds, and have no warping problems. Having said that most models have more than one layer of card and plenty of bracing, both card and wood-strip. The triangular webs shouldn't be there really, I had to add them to support the L.E.D.s when I discovered the perspex under-canopy leached light all round.

 

Doug

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  • 5 months later...

Hi, Dottore and JCL,

 

My interiors walls, dado rails table, chair are self made on the pooter, with bits from Scalescenes models. The doors are home made printer jobs too, the tiled floors are from the interior of bank etc envelopes, just anything that looks right really!

 

Doug

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Some stonkingly good modelling there Chubber, and yet another excellent thread that I've only just come accross.

What is the origin of the brickwork?  I can't tell if its a high quality brickpaper, or have you produced it yourself?

many thanks,

Dave.T

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Doug will reply, but I can tell you that the brickwork is from scalescenes, scratchbilders yard.

 

And he has also correctly used English bond for the main walls and stretcher bond for the chimney stacks.

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Hi chubber,

there are some really great models here, there is certainly nothing wrong with card modelling, these look excellent and I think its about 'uniformity' when it comes to sighting buildings on a layout made with the same materials, and you have that right, sometimes it can look wrong were you have a card building then a plastic buiding next to each other.

I take it you use card for the most part in your modelling?

greast stuff

cheers

Peter

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Thank you, Peter,

 

I too believe there  is nothing wrong with card and paper as a modelling material, it pre-dates plastic by many years. I have long admired your work, signal boxes especially as they are quite 'bijou' and fiddly to make in the smaller sizes. here is a box I've built  based on Isfield, designed by Alan Mansfield of ABM models, who now caters for many Southern/LBSCR enthusiasts. The curve window tops and round-ended lights above are a difficult subject to model cleanly.

 

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Card lends itself to the rural vernacular especially, the temptation to 'over distress' is huge as it can be so easily bent or deformed, I'm still in two minds as to whether or not I have overdone the slope/collapse on the lean-to on this cottage group, for example. Save the florists wire down pipes, [scrounged] the glazing [ex-packaging] scraped cocktail sticks and BBQ skewers for guttering the whole is card, Scalescenes paper, and cost less than, say, £3.00p?

 

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Occasionally I look admiringly at models on RMWeb, then tot up the costs of a large factory, in etched window frames and plasticard and reckon it represents the best part of several bottles of Scottish Laughing Water, which is fine for professional modellers who see some return on their efforts!

 

It may even deter beginners and drive them into the arms of the 'PlonkCraft' manufacturers on the premise that if they must spend £30 on bits and pieces before attempting such a model, they might as well buy it ready-made for near the same price and have spare time to watch all the repeats of Michael Portillo's Great British Railway Journeys.

 

Card modelling also does its bit for recycling, you are constantly on the look-out for materials....Now where did that box go to? The one the wife's new bra came in? There must be a terminus station or a at least an MPD in that card...

 

 

Best wishes,

 

 

Doug

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Doug, that signal box is formidable. If anyone has proven the value of card modelling it's you! In my opinion your work is some of the best on here, and I honestly don't think of it as "card" - I just see world class modelling.

 

Plus, you get the scottish laughing water! :declare:

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...My interiors walls, dado rails table, chair are self made on the pooter, with bits from Scalescenes models. The doors are home made printer jobs too,

You wouldn't consider sharing the artwork (I have some interiors I can exchange with you)? Not the scalescenes stuff, obviously (although a listing of what you used would be helpful

 

iD

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Doug,

On the cottages, Have you used the Scalescenes Iron for the roof's?

If so. how does it look in the flesh?

I like texture, but accept the reality is that brickwork at 1/76 is, in reality, going to look flat, but I am a bit more concerned with the way GI looks.

Are you happy with it, if it is SC?

 

Khris

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Hullo, All,

 

My apologies for seemingly ignoring you, ID, I haven't come back to this thread for a while.

 

For the wall interiors I just print a strip of two colours with a double black/dark line to imitate a dado rail, the doors I adapt from door company catalogues, and all the fancy stuff comes from S'Scenes models, like the Timbered pub, which contains all sorts of stuff, the Terrace Backs, ditto, and general 'interesting paper' like envelope interiors. Some doors I design my self.

 

John Wiffen did a free download for an entrance ramp and steps for his large station which will yield all sorts of interesting textures...see.

 

http://www.scalescenes.com/R005steps/R005.html

 

The furniture and lineside junk download http://scalescenes.com/products/T004-Furniture-and-Lineside-Junk is useful for book cases etc but for settees I prefer to use balsa wood of the appropriate thickness rather than cut out lots of little layers.

 

Khris, I am happy with the S'Scenes plain corrugated, I chose to scribe down the lines of a lot of it, your mind then fools you into thinking it's all textured. Terminate the backing just before the edge of the 'corrugated' and that way you don't get a 1" thick edge to the roof. Brickwork need not be 'flat', I have filed down a 2" nail so that the end is brick sized, and use this to press in a few 'bricks' around windows or doors where your eyes are naturally drawn, again, it can fool the mind.

 

Remember, if you are using stone SC paper, get it the right way up!

 

The red tiles I print onto slightly textured A4 paper sourced at an art shop [i had to buy it, insert shuddering smiley] The right-hand roof isTX29 Aged CI, the left-had isTX30 Painted, which I am not quite so happy about.

 

Herewith, one or two of my thingies,

 

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Best wishes,

 

Doug

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