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Black Country Blues


Indomitable026
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Whilst looking for something else I came across these images today, too late to help Neil unfortunately but they may be of interest to anybody else embarking on a water tower.

 

They''re from a South Durham Iron & Steel Company book circa 1938.  South Durham had an integrated works at Hartlepool and were major producers of steel plate and steel plate products. They had a tank manufacturing plant on site and offered an erection service if required. The tanks were made up from hot pressed steel plate, bolted together, and were advertised as not needing skilled labour to assemble. Panels were available either 4' x 4' or 1 metre x 1 metre, in various gauges.

 

This one is of 28,000 gallon capacity and must be assembled from the 4' panels to hold that volume.

 

post-6861-0-23416000-1365116694_thumb.jpg

 

28,000 gallons weighs about 125 tons, the panels adding around 8 tons, depending on gauge. Heavy sections support the floor of the tank but the supporting structure looks surprisingly light.

 

An interior view showing the strengthening stays.

 

post-6861-0-65904000-1365116718.jpg

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Interesting Arthur - there's a 4 page article in the April edition of 'Australian Model Railway Magazine' in which the author is modelling a New South Wales Government Railways 30,000 gallon tank, complete with internal bracing even more complex than that shown in your photo

 

Obviously constructing highly detailed water tanks is in vogue at the moment!

 

Steve

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Worth noting that this one is on steel supports, some, particularly older ones, could be on cast iron columns which would be much heavier in section.

Edited by Arthur
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If you do drill through a cavity then poke a straw down the hole into the void.

Wiggle it around until you find the hidden hole and push the straw into that hole too.

Next thread the wire through the straw.

Lastly, just pull the straw out.

 

Voila - easily threaded wire through a void.

 

 

Kev.

 

 

Having done many, many years as an electrical engineer, thats one method I can say I have never used.

 

It does have its limits though, lenght of void, outer diameter of conductor  and diameter of drilled hole, and the availability of straws when theres no young persons in the household

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Having done many, many years as an electrical engineer, that's one method I can say I have never used.

 

It does have its limits though, length of void, outer diameter of conductor  and diameter of drilled hole, and the availability of straws when there's no young persons in the household

 

Method used many times here. The outer casing from an old (or even a new) Bic ball-point pen is more rigid than a straw and often more readily available. They are a snug fit in a 5/16" (8mm) hole. Two or more can be glued together with poly cement if necessary for long holes.

 

Martin.

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Method used many times here. The outer casing from an old (or even a new) Bic ball-point pen is more rigid than a straw and often more readily available. They are a snug fit in a 5/16" (8mm) hole. Two or more can be glued together with poly cement if necessary for long holes.

 

Martin.

Useful tips, all. Thanks

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Having done many, many years as an electrical engineer, thats one method I can say I have never used.

 

It does have its limits though, lenght of void, outer diameter of conductor  and diameter of drilled hole, and the availability of straws when theres no young persons in the household

 

Ah, I see your problem.

 

Where as I have a 5 yr old, who is drawn to straws stronger than a moth to a flame.

Availability of straws in our household is not a problem, but as Martin indicates any tube will do.

 

 

Kev.

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Its two droppers per each section of rail, a length of track with two rails would have four droppers

Belt, braces and skyhook mentality - exactly what is needed for an exhibition layout that will be forever assembled and disassembled, and not a bad idea for home use, either!

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Belt, braces and skyhook mentality - exactly what is needed for an exhibition layout that will be forever assembled and disassembled, and not a bad idea for home use, either!

 

And if using plastic chaired construction, don't forget the droppers on the check rails. If a model wheel rubs a check rail, it can be lifted fractionally off the running rail, losing pick-up if the check rail is dead.

 

(And just to pre-empt the replies every time I mention this -- I did say model. smile.gif  I know it doesn't happen on the prototype with much heavier wheel loadings.)

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
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Having done many, many years as an electrical engineer, thats one method I can say I have never used.

 

It does have its limits though, lenght of void, outer diameter of conductor  and diameter of drilled hole, and the availability of straws when theres no young persons in the household

 

About 25p for a packet of 50 in Tesco.... (other supermarkets are available).

 

I've used straws as runs for wire (bent paperclip..!) in tube points on my latest, and also wiring runs beneath the baseboard. I think Iain Rice recommended it in his Realistic Layout Design book a couple of years back too.

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My rolling stock efforts between Doncaster and Ally Pally shows were limited to fitting AJ couplings to locos and the ends on rakes.  I didn't get as many done as I would have liked, but was able to get a few more done during the weekend of Ally Pally show.  Since then, spare time has main been used up on a project to convert my shed to a workshop, but I've recently manged to have a look at some Tube wagons for our 7G05 Corby - Wolverhampton or Oldbury tubes as we work towards filling the gaps in our fleet to better reflect the Working Timetable (which can be found here), perfect job for my recently converted Peak.

 

I had constructed three Parkside bodies some time ago, I've now made a start on adding running gear.  In common with my other recent kit builds, I've used Bill Bedford spring units.  Correct wheelbase and alignment of the axles was acheived using the Brassmasters axle spacing gauge.

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I'll now thin down the backs of the axleguards and fit the solebar/axleguard mouldings from the kit, before moving on to brake gear and buffers.

 

I've not forgotten that I'd promised to add some details on forming and fitting AJ couplings - will try to add this here soon.

 

 

 

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Just caught up with this thread. I'd just like to add my congratulations to you Jason, on such a brilliant job. As a newcomer to scratchbulding, I take great inspiration from your work. Fantastic.

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Following last night's discussion on railings for the industrial viaduct here's a couple of photos of the viaduct that used to lead to Castle Meads Power Station in Gloucester. This was an industrial branch off a GWR branch and, as suggested, it's angle iron and tube construction.

post-8705-0-40946500-1365677568_thumb.jpg

post-8705-0-80630600-1365677578_thumb.jpg

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