Edge Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Have you checked the model with plain DC control? I had that a couple of times with locos and it turned out to be duff decoders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Reading other threads, Hatton's decoders have a poor reputation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Reading other threads, Hatton's decoders have a poor reputation. Personally I have had no problems with any Hattons decoders, However as suggested above it is necessary to test the loco with the decoder removed and the analogue blanking plug inserted. I had to return a MW loco recently which had similar running problems as you describe, but this had not been with me long enough to even fit a decoder! The loco had valve gear failure after about 10 mins running!, This was most likely in this case to be the cause of the poor running I do urge you to get in touch with Hattons, request a free return label and get a refund or replacement ( They do have plenty of stock still!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNR Dave Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 So is there a way of distinguishing between the modified second batch and the original release, either by examining the model or by a different product code ? I'm thinking of risking a purchase in the belief that problems encountered get publicised but happy owners don't post. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 1, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2019 If you can examine the model then the simplest way to tell is to look at the underside. The pony trucks on the second batch have self centring springs, the original ones don't. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNR Dave Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Cheers Neil, Popped into Janes Trains in Tooting this afternoon. Had a look at 759 Yeo in Southern livery. Second batch for sure, and Jane ran it up and down the test track for good measure. Smooth and quiet straight out of the box. Very happy with my purchase. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2019 On 1/28/2019 at 8:35 PM, swsjames said: Has anyone else had my problem? I took delivery of 9955 “Exe” today, chipped by Hattons, and tried to run it. Terrible! At first it wouldn’t run at all, then with some jiggling, it jerked forward a few centimetres then stalled again. I have spent an afternoon coaxing it up and down a test siding with little improvement. It runs slightly better bunker-first, but still not satisfactorily. I can’t programme a long address for it either, possibly because the electrical pick up is sporadic. I think it needs to go back to Hattons unless anyone can tell me i’m doing something really silly! Incidentally, no such problem with my 9950 “Yeo” from Kernow models on the same track. If it was like mine then the factory was a bit too enthusiastic with the oil on the wheels and pick-ups. The wheels also needed a good clean, like the ones on their diesels from years ago. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fezza Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 I have two and one was clearly over oiled at the factory. I am very happy with mine but it's worth getting the retailer to test first as there are some duds. Mine run okay on 2nd radius now but you really need a larger radius if possible as these are much larger than the WD Baldwin, Glyn Valley tram etc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeliMike Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Just got an Exe, latest batch and have the same derailing issues as many have. Has anyone managed to fix this and if so how, please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 There have been many comments regarding the problems you have experienced, I have now owned 4 of these locos from 1st & 2nd production all failed with valve gear problems and have been retuned to retailers, however before the problems occurred my fix on the derailing problems was to remove the pony truck power collection strips and on the 2nd version disable the brass centreing springs as well, thus allowing the ponies to move more freely. The locos run perfectly well from the power collection pojnt of view with power collection from the drivers only, but they do require more gentle curves than sometimes found on 009 layouts the minimum radius on my layouts is around 13". Attached pic of one of my failures! There is also a lot of info on the NGRM forum in the trade matters section 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 (edited) WELL! I gave in to temptation and my Fifth MW arrived today ( New readers please note the first 4 were all returned as faulty) Its a Southern transition livery EXE which I quite like short lived, but not quite as 'in your face' as the later SOUTHERN livery. I tested the loco on the layout under construction today ( the layout is a U shaped oval in an 8x6 shed, this format allows entry without a 'duck under' the continuous run incorporates 8 points mostly PECO 18" radius but there are a couple of 12" also) After the first 5 minutes of running I was all for packing up the loco and returning it! But I took a deep breath and decided to examine the problems and try to apply a cure, Initially the loco was derailing on every point in forward direction and around 75% in reverse. I carried out just one modification so far I disabled the centreing springs on the front pony only, this resulted in perfect running in both directions ,I am unsure why it cured the reverse running, possibly the inhibited pre modified front pony had an effect on reverse running. Although the layout has minimum curves of around 14" I found that there is a slight tendency for the loco to slow at certain parts of some curves where these are on a gradient I need to check the track there may be a little re fettling to do In addition to continuous run I have a yard under construction which uses Peco 12" & Y points the loco ran through these fine I would add also that I checked the pins on the motion to ensure they were secure and this is something I will continue to do from time to time I still have to fit the couplings and decoder, but will not rush to do this until I have given the loco some further test runs. I hope that this is of value and will perhaps encourage those who have held off buying PS take a look at RAILS prices ( only valid for a short time I think) Edited February 8, 2019 by Stevelewis 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 8, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Stevelewis said: WELL! I gave in to temptation and my Fifth MW arrived today ( New readers please note the first 4 were all returned as faulty) Its a Southern transition livery EXE which I quite like short lived, but not quite as 'in your face' as the later SOUTHERN livery. I tested the loco on the layout under construction today ( the layout is a U shaped oval in an 8x6 shed, this format allows entry without a 'duck under' the continuous run incorporates 8 points mostly PECO 18" radius but there are a couple of 12" also) After the first 5 minutes of running I was all for packing up the loco and returning it! But I took a deep breath and decided to examine the problems and try to apply a cure, Initially the loco was derailing on every point in forward direction and around 75% in reverse. I carried out just one modification so far I disabled the centreing springs on the front pony only, this resulted in perfect running in both directions ,I am unsure why it cured the reverse running, possibly the inhibited pre modified front pony had an effect on reverse running. Although the layout has minimum curves of around 14" I found that there is a slight tendency for the loco to slow at certain parts of some curves where these are on a gradient I need to check the track there may be a little re fettling to do In addition to continuous run I have a yard under construction which uses Peco 12" & Y points the loco ran through these fine I would add also that I checked the pins on the motion to ensure they were secure and this is something I will continue to do from time to time I still have to fit the couplings and decoder, but will not rush to do this until I have given the loco some further test runs. I hope that this is of value and will perhaps encourage those who have held off buying PS take a look at RAILS prices ( only valid for a short time I think) Glad your 5th one is working well. I have used the Greenwich and district etched couples minus the lifting bar and the lugs cut off the coupler. This has then been bent ot the desired angle and glued into the NEM box using canopy glue. This does allow the cow catchers to remian in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 1 hour ago, roundhouse said: Glad your 5th one is working well. I have used the Greenwich and district etched couples minus the lifting bar and the lugs cut off the coupler. This has then been bent ot the desired angle and glued into the NEM box using canopy glue. This does allow the cow catchers to remian in place. I never had any problems with my first 3 using the Peco couplers and the cow catchers in place apart from heating up the couplers and bending them a bit, never got to try them on No.4 it went back to retailer too quickly!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted February 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2019 On 05/02/2019 at 11:03, HeliMike said: Just got an Exe, latest batch and have the same derailing issues as many have. Has anyone managed to fix this and if so how, please? My solution can be found here: Other fixes are available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Further testing of EXE today, I have disabled the rear pony centreing springs (front ones were disabled yesterday), fitted couplings without any modification, which seem to be OK relative to PECO rolling stock, Temporarily removed front cow catcher, may remove tip bar of it. Have run the loco extensively hauling 3 coaches and a couple of 4 wheel wagons, up hill and down dale on the layout ( my excuse for a layout that is!) I have had to adjust a couple of sections of track which were not quite level, to eliminate 'dips' which caused the loco to slow with drivers spinning. I will attempt to upload a short poor quality video! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 FURTHER UPDATE. Decoder now fitted, in the process of doing this I removed completely the centering springs and also flattened the brass power collection strips against the underside of the chassis so that they do not contact the pony wheels, the pony trucks are therefore totally free to move. I would point out that prior to fitting the decoder , whilst the pony trucks were removed I tested the running qualities of the chassis to make sure that power collection from the 6 drivers was sufficient, it was and it ran exceptionally smoothly. After reassembly I tested the loco again hauling rolling stock it ran for long periods without any problems, ( the layout is continuous run which has 8 Peco 18" &12" radius points in the circuit which also includes 2 gradients on approx. 14" radius curves) So I may buy another, not immediately just waiting to see how the market goes, I note that there are already some reduced prices appearing! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fezza Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) Neither of mine will run through Peco 009 points reliably as the pony truck spacers foul the crossing. It's a stupid design error that should have been picked up much earlier - especially as this is the second batch. They do run through large radius N gauge points so I've maybe got some tracklaying to do. The real thing had the same problem when Lynn arrived last year... Edited February 10, 2019 by fezza Mistake Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 I was round at a friends today who has a couple of the MWs one has been modified as per my loco as above and runs fine now, Surprisingly the other which had not been modified was running and that was running fine! Strange I thought he has managed to do it himself,HOWEVER when I asked he told me what he had done he answered ' I took the pony wheels off!!!!' He had simply removed the wheelsets by unclipping them, and there it was pulling a train successfully, as the layout is fairly low around 1metre high the lack of wheels was just not apparent! May be not a fix for every one but interesting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fezza Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 You really shouldn't have to remove wheels to get a £200 loco through points. I love the L and B so I will keep mine and do what I can. Heljan really ought to step up and sort this though. I foresee lots more returns... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
swsjames Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 rMy mark 2 Yeo, a replacement for the mark 1 whose valve gear came apart, has just failed after not much running. A pin fastening the coupling rod to the crank of the rear drive has dropped out - same problem as Stevelewis reported on Feb 5th. I can't find the pin and anyway, I doubt I could re-attach it properly if I did. Very, very disappointing.r Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 24 minutes ago, swsjames said: rMy mark 2 Yeo, a replacement for the mark 1 whose valve gear came apart, has just failed after not much running. A pin fastening the coupling rod to the crank of the rear drive has dropped out - same problem as Stevelewis reported on Feb 5th. I can't find the pin and anyway, I doubt I could re-attach it properly if I did. Very, very disappointing.r Its very annoying, my latest one EXE is running digitally and performs OK, ( Modified ponies removed the centreing springs and flattened the brass power pickups against the underside of the chassis so they do not touch the pony wheel rims) Haulage power is good 3 coaches, 3 bogie goods wagons & 1 4whl van up a 1 in 25 no problem. One thing I am doing on a regular basis is checking the pins are tight and not gradually unscrewing, but it would be quite a feat to actually replace one! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaymzHatstand Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Well, I've finally been able to give my two MkII MWs a run, albeit on a makeshift shunting layout, but 12' of forwards and reverse and a couple of points is better than sitting in a box! They were both, thankfully smooth straight from the box but the bogies (as expected) struggled with the points, which are brand new Peco mainline ones. Centring springs removed and pickups tweaked and everything was fine! Well, it seemed fine! TAW had developed a worrying limp which after various issues with other peoples immediately set alarm bells ringing! Anyhow, a bit of investigation showed that it wasn't a valve gear issue (phew!) and that it occurred at the same point of every wheel revolution. So the chaos came out and the drive gears examined closely. It turned out that a minute piece of plastic swarf or maybe a fleck of paint/glue from the centering spring had got into one of the teeth. Once that was removed and it all reassembled I tentatively applied power, and off she went, happy as can be! So my issue was one of my own doing, but enough to cause erratic running. Hopefully I'll be able to get them run in properly now! Cheers J 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
swsjames Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 19 hours ago, Stevelewis said: Its very annoying, my latest one EXE is running digitally and performs OK, ( Modified ponies removed the centreing springs and flattened the brass power pickups against the underside of the chassis so they do not touch the pony wheel rims) Haulage power is good 3 coaches, 3 bogie goods wagons & 1 4whl van up a 1 in 25 no problem. One thing I am doing on a regular basis is checking the pins are tight and not gradually unscrewing, but it would be quite a feat to actually replace one! Kernow have said they can send me a replacement pin. Do these screw in, or are they a push fit with a dab of glue? From what you say, it sounds as if they screw in - or out, as the case may be! If I can’t do it myself, I’m hoping a mate at the model railway club might be able to help. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fezza Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 (edited) That's good customer service from Kernow. I have now freed up the front and rear pony trucks so they move completely freely. That's cured the waddle and both run through old Peco crazy track points. So I got there in the end - after quite a bit of swearing. Heljan couldn't have tested these before release or they would have picked up this simple problem. Sadly quality assurance seems non existant for some model railway products today. Edited February 15, 2019 by fezza 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) RE Pin Dropout...…….It may be worth visiting a local optician!!!! Seriously opticians usually carry many sizes of small screws etc to repair glasses, and they also have the facilities to actually see what they are doing. They may be willing to help for a small fee or the promise of an order for specs in the future -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Answering Swsjames query above...…...screw in fit VERY tiny, I keep small tweezers handy so I can frequently check the pins, and that needs a bright light and magnifier. Edited February 17, 2019 by Stevelewis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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