Deltaskelta Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Ho! Hum! https://mailchi.mp/railsofsheffield/oo9-flash-sale?e=1b0a8b5bd8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Thanks for that. I've popped for one. Now to see how long it takes to get to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2019 Ok I’ve just spent the day fine tuning three MW’s I’ve made 5 adjustments that have given 90% good running on 12” points and seem 100% so far on 18” points. One crankpin did come loose when a large lump of glue on the back fell off, screwed back in and locitited. It appeared to be superglue dribbled on the back that had barely touched the pin. I have had a couple of derailments where the loco doesn’t swing into the point causing the front pony to still get pulled over sideways by the frames. Short of cutting out the frame I can’t grind any more out so I’ll live with that. 1. Inside of outside frames gently ground out with mini sanding drum in a dremel to increase pony swing, done very carefully or the plastic melts. This stops the frames pushing the wheel over on 12” points. 2. Pony wheels axle ground back 0.2mm so the wheels are 10.3mm over the outside faces this gives a BtoB of 7.3mm 3. Flanges on pony wheels spun on the lathe, a drill will do, to take off the sharp edge. 4. Pony side springs opened out so they only make contact just before maximum swing. 5. Pony pickups flattened so all weight is on the main drivers. Oh and dcc chips fitted! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Seems like a lot of work on a brand-new RTR locomotive, but we've been spoiled as an industry of late in OoB running qualities. I'd reckon the same effort into a Lima loco would give pause to most detractors of the brand. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2019 To be fair they’ve done a lot new and got the most difficult bits right. Only let down by dodgy glue on the pins and a gaffe with the ponies. Re spec the axle and flanges and I think they’ll run fine. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Decorum Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 1 hour ago, PaulRhB said: Ok I’ve just spent the day fine tuning three MW’s I’ve made 5 adjustments that have given 90% good running on 12” points and seem 100% so far on 18” points. One crankpin did come loose when a large lump of glue on the back fell off, screwed back in and locitited. It appeared to be superglue dribbled on the back that had barely touched the pin. I have had a couple of derailments where the loco doesn’t swing into the point causing the front pony to still get pulled over sideways by the frames. Short of cutting out the frame I can’t grind any more out so I’ll live with that. 1. Inside of outside frames gently ground out with mini sanding drum in a dremel to increase pony swing, done very carefully or the plastic melts. This stops the frames pushing the wheel over on 12” points. 2. Pony wheels axle ground back 0.2mm so the wheels are 10.3mm over the outside faces this gives a BtoB of 7.3mm 3. Flanges on pony wheels spun on the lathe, a drill will do, to take off the sharp edge. 4. Pony side springs opened out so they only make contact just before maximum swing. 5. Pony pickups flattened so all weight is on the main drivers. Oh and dcc chips fitted! There ought to be a job opening for you at Heljan! Very useful information. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 14, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2019 Ian (Roundhouse) suggested the axle shortening and it’s best done by firmly twisting the wheels to release one and simply pull it off, I then held the axle in the pliers to act as a heatsink as I ground the end down a bit. I took it slow so I didn’t melt the other wheel. I used my vernier to check progress but you could make up a gauge from plastic to check they are uniform. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fezza Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 One of mine has started to waddle again and is sticky running backwards. Such a shame the QA is so poor. Wish Roco had produced these instead... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 17, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2019 (edited) Well we ran the MW’s with my pony truck mods for two days and we did have occasional derailments on the 12” points but it was something like 5% of the time and I think it’s now down to the short pivot making the angle of attack a bit too much if the loco has hunted the opposite way as it enters the curve of the point. They ran perfectly on the 18” Mainline points. Edited March 17, 2019 by PaulRhB 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted March 17, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2019 I do like that re-enactment of the last train. What colour grey did you use on the coach roofs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 17, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2019 It’s halfords grey primer with Tamiya flat varnish to stop finger marks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Font T Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 On 13/03/2019 at 20:43, PaulRhB said: Re spec the axle and flanges and I think they’ll run fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Font T Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Paul RhB, do you think there’s any realistic prospect of Heljan releasing a 3rd batch of these locos to address these issues you mention? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobby Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Just seen a pig flying past the window... You would hope so but don't hold your breath.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 18, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2019 I doubt it as they had my comments on issue one but if you don't try you don't get ;) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Font T Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Yeah, thought as much to be honest Hobby. I have one still under warrantee but don’t have a layout yet. I’m fine with using the Peco 18” streamline turnouts in principle. My main issue thinking ahead is using them to form run round loops. This will be my first ever layout, I’m a total novice, and wanted to keep things as simple as possible. Therefore I had wanted to use set track throughout, and use 9” set track turnouts to form the run round loops. I’m now aware I’d have to learn how to cut flexi track to form the run round loops when using the stream line points which isn’t ideal as I know I’ll mess it up! So I’m in a bit of a quandary at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Font T Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Thanks Paul. It was seeing yours and Nile NG’s fixes on here that convinced me to go ahead with the purchase of this loco, knowing there are people out there who’d be able to get the model sorted out and running reliably. Just a bit of a blow realising I’d have to have a bash at flexi track for the run round loops as I really don’t trust myself with it, and wanted to do all the track work myself using set track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 OT, but flex is not that bad. Big things are to get the right tools, being a proper track cutter, and keep the 'loose' track on the inside of your turns. A passing loop isn't too hard, just establish one end, and only cut the other. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Font T Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Thank you for your advice. If anyone’s going to mess it up then it’ll be me though trust me! Ive got a lot to ponder. May attempt to do it myself when the time comes to build the layout, or find someone else to. Also considering returning the loco. I was always planning on finding someone to modify the pony trucks and the connecting rods. That stuff is a million miles out of my capabilities, I just wanted to get the loco sorted out to start with and then learn how to maintain and take good care of them myself over the years. But now the issue of flexi track being involved is making me rethink everything especially as it’s still under guarantee. Of course the best thing ever would be a 3rd batch to cure all the issues, but it doesn’t sound too realistic. Moreover, even if Heljan did manage to do it, it’s a big stretch to imagine it passing through 9” turnouts successfully. It’s my own fault, I should have investigated the PECO set track configurations more closely before buying the loco. After all, even accounting for the issues with the loco, it was never intended for 9” turnouts even in the first place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 18, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2019 With flex track start at the point and cut it on the straight, investing in a dremel, or similar minidrill, and a cutting disc makes it so much easier As you curve the track the rail may move a bit but as long as you are carful you can grip it with pliers and gently pull it back to a small gap at the join before you cut the rail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Font T Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Thank you very much for your advice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobby Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 1 hour ago, PaulRhB said: With flex track start at the point and cut it on the straight, investing in a dremel, or similar minidrill, and a cutting disc makes it so much easier Have to disagree with you there Paul. I don't like cutting discs for cutting rail unless it's already fixed in place and there is no alternative. A Xuron rail cutter is a much better and safer way to cut rail. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 18, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2019 33 minutes ago, Hobby said: Have to disagree with you there Paul. I don't like cutting discs for cutting rail unless it's already fixed in place and there is no alternative. A Xuron rail cutter is a much better and safer way to cut rail. I use both although I prefer discs and they are perfectly safe with glasses or safety specs, which you should also use with cutters if it's a small offcut as it can ping off just like a shattered disc. I never have my head in line with the disc so you avoid bits if it shatters regardless. I wouldn't use any high speed tool without eye protection. Main thing with discs is to not insist on using them down to the mandrel or you end up with sloping cuts. Anyway back to the loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 19, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2019 16 hours ago, Font T said: But now the issue of flexi track being involved is making me rethink everything It might be worth getting a length and having a play just to get used to it. It still does things you don’t want even with experience but you know what to expect and mostly it’s easy to fix. A pin vice and small drill to pre drill the sleepers before bending anything, small track pins, (avoid the ultra thin Peco ones though as they bend when you look at them so not ideal to build confidence), I prefer a pin pusher over a hammer because you can’t miss and dent the track, if you do use a hammer I hold the pin with pliers to get it started and then I have a short 5mm brass bar that I hold on top of the pin and hit that with the hammer so it keeps the hammer away from the rails. No doubt there are videos on YouTube too. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Font T Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Ok, may buy a length of it and have a practice. Thanks for the advice on the pins also. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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