Lynton & Barnstaple OO9 Loco from Heljan

[PhilJ W]

My friends young son has just purchased two of these locomotives. Both have the crank pins falling out after running only a short distance and have difficulties with curved track on inclines. Having read the above I think we can fix it. 

[Grasslands]

Is anyone able to help me identify what Heljan product code a 2nd batch L&B livery Yeo has and whether it is different to a 1st batch product code?

 

I, perhaps naively, assumed that the code 99501 would signify the 2nd batch (assuming the original batch was 9950), but I picked up a 99501 this week and it is definitely a first batch one without the pony wheels springs.

 

Interestingly, there are a lot of colour and livery differences with this one compared to my 2nd batch L&B ones (the black lamps on the 1st batch one being the most obvious difference). The ploughs are also folded up weirdly. Is it a matter of getting pictures of one out of the box to check it has red lamps?

[Pre Grouping fan]

2 hours ago, Grasslands said:

Is anyone able to help me identify what Heljan product code a 2nd batch L&B livery Yeo has and whether it is different to a 1st batch product code?

 

I, perhaps naively, assumed that the code 99501 would signify the 2nd batch (assuming the original batch was 9950), but I picked up a 99501 this week and it is definitely a first batch one without the pony wheels springs.

 

Interestingly, there are a lot of colour and livery differences with this one compared to my 2nd batch L&B ones (the black lamps on the 1st batch one being the most obvious difference). The ploughs are also folded up weirdly. Is it a matter of getting pictures of one out of the box to check it has red lamps?

 

Without seeing them side by side I wouldn't be able to tell for definite.

 

To me it sounds like your 99501 model is second hand and has been modified by it's previous owner to remove the springs, might also explain the folded up ploughs.

[Grasslands]

19 minutes ago, Pre Grouping fan said:

 

Without seeing them side by side I wouldn't be able to tell for definite.

 

To me it sounds like your 99501 model is second hand and has been modified by it's previous owner to remove the springs, might also explain the folded up ploughs.

Here are some photos of Yeo alongside Exe and Taw. I'm pretty sure it is a batch 1 version (as I thought my other two are batch 2).

 

Quick observations of the differences with Yeo (assuming Batch 1):

• Lamps are black (instead of red)
• Springs on pony wheels and pony wheel harness is different
• Brighter shade of green
• Bordering of green areas is much less obvious and not orange
• Underframe is less of a Red brown
• Weak brass colouring to dome, pipes and chimney top (not copper as per batch 2)
• Ploughs folded differently
• Chassis' block is black (brown in batch 2)
• Black whistle and pipes near cab
• Weak brass backing to the maker's plate
• Sand pipes coloured brass (on batch 2 they are brown)

 

My current suspicion is that I've bought a batch 1 Yeo (9950) version in a batch 2 (99501) box (or I have all this the wrong way around and it is actually batch 2)

 

 

 

[Blobrick]

Not to be out done by the lovely Heljan models, here's my take on the L&B motive power dept.

[MPR]

33 minutes ago, Blobrick said:

Not to be out done by the lovely Heljan models, here's my take on the L&B motive power dept.

I suppose that is a Fairlie good approximation.

[Grasslands]

1 hour ago, Blobrick said:

Not to be out done by the lovely Heljan models, here's my take on the L&B motive power dept.

I like your 'what if' scenario in your other thread. This model looks great on the L&B stock. 

[Blobrick]

1 hour ago, MPR said:

I suppose that is a Fairlie good approximation.

 Where's that Groan button when you need it!

[ikcdab]

Hi all, i have just bought a E188 Lew from Rails on their special offer, its a good price, £129.50.

However, two faults:

1. the valve gear on one side fell out. the crankpin has come out of the wheel. I have tried to push back in, but to no avail and i dont want to apply to much pressure.

2. intermittently, when power is applied, the motor whirs, but no movement. Sounds as if the gear wheel is loose or not engaging.

I am just sending it back to rails.

However, i don't know whether to just have a refund or to request a new locomotive. I am not sure if they do repairs.

If these are inherent faults, then I will get a refund, despite the good price, and buy something else. But it you think this i s arare one-off, then its a new loco.

What do you think?

Ian

 

[Hobby]

Refund or replace, they haven't got a good reputation, as you may have gathered, so if it's faulty I'd get rid asap.

[ikcdab]

17 minutes ago, Hobby said:

Refund or replace, they haven't got a good reputation, as you may have gathered, so if it's faulty I'd get rid asap.

Thanks, duly requested.

Ian

[Grasslands]

Hi all, based on my recent post about Heljan Manning Wardle batch variations, I have written up this blog on my findings thus far. Hopefully, it will be useful to those hunting the sales market for different versions. 

 

As an aside, I also have some stuff about my OO9 L&B project on the blog too. It's a slightly more fantastical version of @Blobrick's plans. I'm leaning towards setting up a topic here for it, but I'll give it a bit more of a mull (typing time vs. modelling time and all that). It would probably help if I knew what I was calling the layout first anyway.

 

https://grasslandsmodels.wordpress.com/2023/05/04/Heljan-lynton-barnstaple-manning-wardle-oo9-locos-version-woes-and-clarifications/

[ikcdab]

bought one of these from Rails back in April. I had to send it back immediately because the valve gear was loose. it came back  - not sure if it was a repair or a replacement loco. 

I didnt run it apart from a short test run, but got it out today and ran it again - and all the valve gear on one side dropped off again. The crankpin was loose and came out and the slide bar and slide bar guides dropped out.

Its been more than the six-months Rails stipulate in their refund policy - they now say in their policy that i have to prove it was faulty. I have emailed them and gave the evidence that it has already been sent back once and now we have the same issue again.

I have no idea what they will say but now i just want a refund. The loco is rubbish.

Anyone else had the same issue?

Ian

[Hobby]

Lots of people! It's a known issue with them, I believe there are fixes, @PaulRhB I think may be able to help?

[PaulRhB]

10 hours ago, ikcdab said:

Its been more than the six-months Rails stipulate in their refund policy - they now say in their policy that i have to prove it was faulty.

The fact it’s fallen apart proves that. Odd as it’s rare on the later batch models and I doubt it’s old batch one stock now. 
 

9 minutes ago, Hobby said:

Lots of people! It's a known issue with them, I believe there are fixes, @PaulRhB I think may be able to help?

The mods usually only work before it locks up as if the valve gear jams and breaks it can damage the cranks as it comes out. 
 

The fix list, 1 only worth doing if you’re using 12” points, 6 worth doing if the truck mods don’t quite solve all issues. I’ve got all four locos and they run very well. 

 

1. Inside of outside frames gently ground out with mini sanding drum in a dremel to increase pony swing, done very carefully or the plastic melts. This stops the frames pushing the wheel over on 12” points. 

 

2. Pony wheels axle ground back 0.2mm so the wheels are 10.3mm over the outside faces this gives a BtoB of 7.3mm

 

3. Flanges on pony wheels spun on the lathe, (a drill will do), to take off the sharp edge.

 

4. Pony side springs opened out so they only make contact just before maximum swing. 

 

5. Pony pickups flattened so all weight is on the main drivers. 

 

6. ‘liquid lead’, or small strip, glued to pony truck to increase weight. 

 

7. top bar of cow catcher removed to allow pony to drop more on changes of gradient.

 

8. Slack off pony truck screws to allow more movement, truck boss may benefit from being reamed out slightly to allow tilt.

 

9. First release models, drop link gently bend outwards in the middle so rivets can’t catch main connecting rods. 

[ikcdab]

On 18/11/2023 at 08:14, PaulRhB said:

The fact it’s fallen apart proves that. Odd as it’s rare on the later batch models and I doubt it’s old batch one stock now. 
 

The mods usually only work before it locks up as if the valve gear jams and breaks it can damage the cranks as it comes out. 
 

The fix list, 1 only worth doing if you’re using 12” points, 6 worth doing if the truck mods don’t quite solve all issues. I’ve got all four locos and they run very well. 

 

1. Inside of outside frames gently ground out with mini sanding drum in a dremel to increase pony swing, done very carefully or the plastic melts. This stops the frames pushing the wheel over on 12” points. 

 

2. Pony wheels axle ground back 0.2mm so the wheels are 10.3mm over the outside faces this gives a BtoB of 7.3mm

 

3. Flanges on pony wheels spun on the lathe, (a drill will do), to take off the sharp edge.

 

4. Pony side springs opened out so they only make contact just before maximum swing. 

 

5. Pony pickups flattened so all weight is on the main drivers. 

 

6. ‘liquid lead’, or small strip, glued to pony truck to increase weight. 

 

7. top bar of cow catcher removed to allow pony to drop more on changes of gradient.

 

8. Slack off pony truck screws to allow more movement, truck boss may benefit from being reamed out slightly to allow tilt.

 

9. First release models, drop link gently bend outwards in the middle so rivets can’t catch main connecting rods. 

Well I am someone who can make modifications and I am prepared to do so, but this level of work to just get an engine that runs properly is unreasonable.  Rails are sending me a returns label and I hope you get my money back.  If so, I'll just buy a Bachmann quarry hunslet instead that I know is reliable.

[PaulRhB]

1 hour ago, ikcdab said:

Well I am someone who can make modifications and I am prepared to do so, but this level of work to just get an engine that runs properly is unreasonable.  Rails are sending me a returns label and I hope you get my money back.  If so, I'll just buy a Bachmann quarry hunslet instead that I know is reliable.

Most later batch ones don’t need all the mods but doing them gets a sweet runner. The flanges are worth doing in all of them.