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Lynton & Barnstaple OO9 Loco from Heljan


Mike Bellamy
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On the valve gear breaks like Steve had I think I've found why too. The drop link can jam straight if the loco is handled with it at the extreme of travel.

Mine had popped up, it locked straight as I tried to pop it down and if I'd tried to run it could have broken off like Steve's. So watch those drop links after handling them ;)

Edited by PaulRhB
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Actually  further  examination  has  shown  nothing  has  actually  broken!  the  pin  which  attaches  the  drop lin  to  the centre driver  crank  has  simply  popped  out thus  releasing   the  drop link arm to  swing  freely.

 

I have  actually  looked  at  the  possibility  of a repair but  the  pin could be  anywhere  and  is  tiny.. the possibility of  using a cut  down  track pin  comes to  mind

 

The pin  just appears to plug in  to  the fitting  on  the  crank but  not  pass through it  so how  it  was  retained in place  is  a  mystery to me

 

The  retailer has agreed to  replace  the  loco when  he  gets  more stock,  I am wondering  if  any one  would  notice  if   I experimentally  cut  off the  pony pickups to check the  running,  perhaps  not!

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On the valve gear breaks like Steve had I think I've found why too. The drop link can jam straight if the loco is handled with it at the extreme of travel.

Note mine had popped up in this photo, it locked straight as I tried to pop it down and if I'd tried to run it could have broken off like Steve's. So watch those drop links after handling them ;)0572F89A-E558-47EC-9EF0-7C3DF09C8767.jpg

That could be tricky using these locos at shows as not everyone will remember how to handle these if they need to.

 

However if as Steve says that a pin will work then there is a reasonable solution to fix them.

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That could be tricky using these locos at shows as not everyone will remember how to handle these if they need to.

 

However if as Steve says that a pin will work then there is a reasonable solution to fix them.

Yes I think just being aware of it if turning them over is all you need to do. My only concern now is fitting the pipe along the frame, they say cut off the locating pips because there are no locating holes and it's springy plastic so I doubt they will last long if glued! I think a wire copy is the answer with the ends popped into holes drilled in the bufferbeams.

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The pin popped  out very  early on in the testing  phase it  probably  hadn't  run more  than a few  yards in total, so maybe  the pin had not been secured correctly in the first  place,

 

I have noticed  that  the  'popping up' you show  in the  pic  occurs  quite  frequently on  both my locos  ( well only on  the  good side on Exe)

 

As  Paul  says  we  have  to  be  carful  handling  these  locos  I had  to  watch  myself  when disassembling Yeo earlier

 

I noticed also  that  someone  reported  he  had  recvd  his 2 locos  from Parkside Dundas one of which  was  TAW which  I was  advised  was not  available until  later (think it  was onNGRM)

Edited by Stevelewis
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I would like to return this thread to the subject of supply of the models into the shops, and quote an e-mail that was received from Heljan a week ago. (shown below).

 

No model shop should be in any doubt that the initial batch they receive is probably not their full allocation. If this information is not being passed on to customers, it is not the fault of Heljan - we have been told what is going on!

 

   "Dear Heljan retailer

 

We have recently despatched the initial delivery of our new L&B narrow gauge locomotives.

 

Unfortunately we did not receive our full consignment of models and have therefore had to supply retailers with part orders.

 

We thought it preferable to supply part orders to all, rather than complete orders to a few, and trust this meets with your agreement.

 

Rest assured, as soon as we can, we will supply the balance of all outstanding orders.

 

Thank you for your understanding."

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I took delivery of Yeo yesterday, and am severely disappointed, having built my first 009 layout for these locos and waited years for

them finally to appear. Not to mention spending a lot of money on the loco and the layout for it. The worst problems, which others have

also noted:

 

1 - The loco will not run over Peco 009 pointwork: it derails and shorts out. I've coaxed it over some points at s snail's pace, but at

realistic speeds, it is hopeless. My Minitrains works engine (the Baldwin 2-6-2T) copes happily with my pointwork.

 

2 - The loco will not couple to Peco rolling stock - the coupling bar is too high.If I make it couple, it lifts the front wheel of a

wagon or coach off the rails.

 

So the model makes a very pretty static display item in a siding, but is useless as a working engine.

 

I've reminded myself of the rave review in the April Railway Modeller, which said that Heljan and Peco had liaised to ensure the engine

would run on Peco code 80 009 track. The reviewer also said that the couplings provided a "perfect match" to Peco rolling stock. Do these

reviewers actually take the loco out of the box and try to run it on a proper layout with a train? I'd expect a proper critical review,

not a mere advertising puff, misleading at that, for a manufacturer trying to flog an ill designed product.

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Did you read my fix for the coupling? It's so simple and only requires a few seconds ;)

 

Now to derailing and shorting, what points, setrack, 12 inch crazy track or mainline?

The bogie fix sorted mine and just needs tweezers and a screwdriver, if you don't feel you should have to then take it back to the shop and ask them to do it for you as they are the supplier.

 

Here's someone who's been waiting a long time . . .

E5C7E7A4-DD22-495C-92B0-ACD94B844A63.jpg

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I took delivery of Yeo yesterday, and am severely disappointed, having built my first 009 layout for these locos and waited years for

them finally to appear. Not to mention spending a lot of money on the loco and the layout for it. The worst problems, which others have

also noted:

 

1 - The loco will not run over Peco 009 pointwork: it derails and shorts out. I've coaxed it over some points at s snail's pace, but at

realistic speeds, it is hopeless. My Minitrains works engine (the Baldwin 2-6-2T) copes happily with my pointwork.

 

2 - The loco will not couple to Peco rolling stock - the coupling bar is too high.If I make it couple, it lifts the front wheel of a

wagon or coach off the rails.

 

So the model makes a very pretty static display item in a siding, but is useless as a working engine.

 

I've reminded myself of the rave review in the April Railway Modeller, which said that Heljan and Peco had liaised to ensure the engine

would run on Peco code 80 009 track. The reviewer also said that the couplings provided a "perfect match" to Peco rolling stock. Do these

reviewers actually take the loco out of the box and try to run it on a proper layout with a train? I'd expect a proper critical review,

not a mere advertising puff, misleading at that, for a manufacturer trying to flog an ill designed product.

 

Hi  Glad  you  made  it  over  here!!  there  are  several  suggestions on  earlier  post  worth  a  read

 

Can  I  ask  what  radius  Peco  points  are  you  using?  are  they  the 9"  Setrack  or the 12"  or  18"  radius?  my locos  do not  seem to  have  any  problems  with  my  points but  they  are  18" radius ones

It will be  interesting  to  see  if there  are  any reviews soon in  the  Magazines, or  follow  up articles  I bet  I know  one  magazine  who will be  silent

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Hi  Glad  you  made  it  over  here!!  there  are  several  suggestions on  earlier  post  worth  a  read

 

Can  I  ask  what  radius  Peco  points  are  you  using?  are  they  the 9"  Setrack  or the 12"  or  18"  radius?  my locos  do not  seem to  have  any  problems  with  my  points but  they  are  18" radius ones

It will be  interesting  to  see  if there  are  any reviews soon in  the  Magazines, or  follow  up articles  I bet  I know  one  magazine  who will be  silent

I am using the 12" radius 009 points.

 

I will look at the solutions proposed to see if they help. But I would have expected Heljan to have identified and ironed out these problems rather than leaving their customers to find DIY solutions off the web.

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As it only seems to be affecting a few I suspect it's minor assembly issues which means they need to tighten up their quality control a bit further rather than poor design. Unfortunately these things can't all be foreseen as they might not occur on the test samples so Heljan may only be finding out with us. The derailing seems to be a bit of flash from stamping and probably isn't there on examples where the contact piece had been fitted the other way up.

 

One of the consequences of these tiny and highly detailed models is the tolerances are more critical and trying to do it down to a price means they can't be checked individually so problems are more likely.

Over the years I've had a Bachmann std 4 tank where the motor burnt out within 2 minutes. Two Bachmann spectrum locos that suffered from repeat split gears, Hornby loco where the crank pin had slipped out the back jamming the wheel, Accucraft loco that needed the gearbox stripping and cleaning out after running in as it was full of swarf (not dwarf! ;) ), Two MMI K 27's where the inbuilt decoders were rubbish and subsequently binned plus rubbish pickups, Tillig locos with crap pickups and valve gear hitting the rods. On that basis this has been the quickest to solve ;)

Edited by PaulRhB
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I am using the 12" radius 009 points.

 

I will look at the solutions proposed to see if they help. But I would have expected Heljan to have identified and ironed out these problems rather than leaving their customers to find DIY solutions off the web.

 

If  you  have  a read of  the  instruction sheet  Heljan  state  Minimum radius  is 305mm which  is 12" but  they  go onto add that  the loco will run better on  larger  radii!

This rather  goes against  all the pre - availability  info  which stated R2  which is  around 10.5" was  the  Min radius  but  with  care  the loco  would  negotiate 9" radius.

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If  you  have  a read of  the  instruction sheet  Heljan  state  Minimum radius  is 305mm which  is 12" but  they  go onto add that  the loco will run better on  larger  radii!

This rather  goes against  all the pre - availability  info  which stated R2  which is  around 10.5" was  the  Min radius  but  with  care  the loco  would  negotiate 9" radius.

Even before we were told that the loco with care would negotiate 9" radius, I seem to recall that we were assured that it would run on 9" radius with no qualification. Forgive me if I feel a bit jittery. 

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Over the years I've had a Bachmann std 4 tank where the motor burnt out within 2 minutes. Two Bachmann spectrum locos that suffered from repeat split gears, Hornby loco where the crank pin had slipped out the back jamming the wheel, Accucraft loco that needed the gearbox stripping and cleaning out after running in as it was full of dwarf, Two MMI K 27's where the inbuilt decoders were rubbish and subsequently binned plus rubbish pickups,

 

That must have been messy : cleaning the dwarfs out of the gearbox...any survivors ?

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It's the advantage of G scale, plenty of room! ;)

 

Now  now  Paul  you  are  making  me  recall the  OLD  DAYS    it  was   a pleasure  to  strip  down  a  Mallet  or a 2-10-2  or  even  install a  decoder  in a  Yellow  & Green  White Pass  Alco  in  the  Kitchen,  but  I would  not  be  too keen on doing  the  same  with  an L&B loco!!

 

gscalemad ,co etc  those  were the  days!

Edited by Stevelewis
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As it only seems to be affecting a few

 

You can't know that, Paul, as we are only seeing those that are owned by Forum Members and also only those who have actually run theirs which makes it an extremely small percentage of those sold.

 

I don't want to get into a discussion on this, just pointing out that unless you speak to everyone who now owns and has run it there is no way of telling how widespread the issues are. As virtually everyone who has commented has the same main two issues so far (couplings and pick-ups) and who have tested theirs through points and round curves it could equally be said the it probably affects all of this batch... 

 

However let's wait and see, hopefully it will not be a major issue...

Edited by Hobby
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You can't know that, Paul, as we are only seeing those that are owned by Forum Members and also only those who have actually run theirs which makes it an extremely small percentage of those sold.

 

I don't want to get into a discussion on this, just pointing out that unless you speak to everyone who now owns and has run it there is no way of telling how widespread the issues are. As virtually everyone who has commented has the same main two issues so far (couplings and pick-ups) and who have tested theirs through points and round curves it could equally be said the it probably affects all of this batch... 

 

However let's wait and see, hopefully it will not be a major issue...

 

It  could  affect  more  than   those  already  delivered  as  Heljan  advised me  that  ALL batch 1  were completed  and  the  first 420  were being  shipped  to  get  things  moving to PECO  the  remainder  being shipped  from  Denmark direct to  retailers over the coming weeks,  If  this proves to be  correct  we  shall see

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Well, in my normal habit of swimming against thetide, I've not only kept my pre-order for the SR liveried 'Exe', but placed two preorders for 'Taw' and 'Yeo' in SR green :).

 

Judging by what is on here, I'll need to test the locos carefully though

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I  had  another  ROCO  loco  delivered  today  ( H0e)  as  expected  it  runs  impeccably  doesnt  derail on  points  and  nothing  has  fallen  off    I have  never  had  a problematic  ROCO Loco in several years  of  buying  them

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You can't know that, Paul, as we are only seeing those that are owned by Forum Members and also only those who have actually run theirs which makes it an extremely small percentage of those sold.

 

I don't want to get into a discussion on this, just pointing out that unless you speak to everyone who now owns and has run it there is no way of telling how widespread the issues are. As virtually everyone who has commented has the same main two issues so far (couplings and pick-ups) and who have tested theirs through points and round curves it could equally be said the it probably affects all of this batch... 

 

However let's wait and see, hopefully it will not be a major issue...

Blair, no I'm only going on the reports on the forums and there have been those that run well, only three so far have listed failures that I've seen  ;)

Mine was checked over and did have some resistance on the pony so it lurched into 12" points although it didn't derail. I just don't see that we should look for doom n gloom every time and as I posted over on NGRM I've had worse faults with locos from Hornby, Bachmann, Accucraft, MMI, Tillig and even LGB, (various detail parts missing on an orange loco was a bit obvious). Note Steve had problems with Minitrains that most people consider the cream of HOe 009 ;)

 

So I avoid bashing the manufacturer for faults that MAY be not manifesting on the test model or in immediate quality control and I've offered fixes for two of the issues that anyone can attempt, if they feel confident, or they can return it to the shop and ask them to do it with the details supplied.

 

Yes Heljan need to know but universally putting them down is more likely to provoke the response of why bother than maybe we can work with them and do even better ;)

 

So no I'm not going to stop offering fixes and no I'm not going to stop offering a balanced view ;)

I'm in discussion with Tillig, via one of the biggest German retailers, at the moment over their 2-10-2 and while I'm not particularly impressed with Tillig's progress I'm not going to start ranting in public if I can force a fix that benefits others ultimately. The shop is doing a great job and have repaid all costs so I'll be patient and hopefully benefit all future batches.

Edited by PaulRhB
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I  have  made   another  observation  today  with  my  2  locos...........some may  remember  Graham  Farish  N  Gauge  Tender  locos  from  the POOLE  era  ( ie  before  Bachmann bought  them)  many of  the locos  were  fitted  with  tender  brakes   ooops  sorry  meant to  say tender  power pickups!!  These  had  the  effect  of stopping  the  wheels  rotating  and  seriously diminished   haulage  power of the locos,   I used to attempt reducing  the  spring  tension by bending them  but in reality  it  was necessary to  simply remove  them.

 

Whilst  looking at  one  of  my L&B running at  track level  I noticed  that  the  rear pony wheels  were not  rotating  and  the front ones  were rotating intermittently,  tried  the  other  loco  exactly  the  same.....  I checked the  spring tension and found it was virtually impossible to reduce it  further.  This  is probably  the  cause  of  the reduction  of haulage  power up  gradients  as opposed to running  with  ponies removed I reprted  earlier in the  thread..

 

I am  seriously   considering  removing at  least  the  rear pony pickup  from 1 loco as a test  it may invalidaet  the  warranty  though

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