Hobby Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Different W/B and wheel diameter though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 23, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2019 Different to what? No prototype was specified. There may be other suitable chassis as well, choose the closest to your needs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fezza Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Could be the basis for a larger loco like the famous Bagnell Delta class perhaps? I suspect prices may fall as I can't see them all shifting for full RRP. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cornelius Posted January 23, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2019 South African Railways had some slightly larger Manning Wardle 2-6-4Ts which could be a possibility. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CGR_Type_A_2-6-4T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 I believe the coupled wheelbase on Wiki may be incorrect; I'm sure these were the same at 6' 6" as the L&BR locos; the driving wheels were the same size too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobby Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 (edited) Different to what? No prototype was specified. There may be other suitable chassis as well, choose the closest to your needs. To the other two mentioned in your previous post! As far as I know, in RTR 9mm gauge, those are the only three 0-6-0 outside frame chassis and they are all different... Edited January 24, 2019 by Hobby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 In 4mm scale the coupled wheelbase of the Roco HF110C scales out about 5' 6", the Farish N Gauge 08 about 6' and the Heljan L&B is 6' 6". The wheels also vary in size. The Roco scales out about 2ft (8mm), the Farish 08 about 2' 3" (9.3mm), the Heljan L&B 2' 9" (11mm). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 Rather an expensive way of getting a chassis, especially for OO9-ers who are renown for giving the Scots a run for their money when it comes to spending! I think the "issues" may put people off too, though as an 0-6-0 rather than a 2-6-2 chassis it may have some uses, adding your own pony trucks/bogies may solve most of the issues! I totally agree I would not consider using the MW chassis in its current form, I can say though that when I was revising the pony trucks on my four locos, and running the chassis as a 0-6-0 performance was superb ( unfortunately all my locos were returned due to valve gear failure) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 For info Tim at ARCADIARAIL 01706882900 expects delivery of all latest MW variants today or tomorrow price £189.00 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 24, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2019 In 4mm scale the coupled wheelbase of the Roco HF110C scales out about 5' 6", the Farish N Gauge 08 about 6' and the Heljan L&B is 6' 6". The wheels also vary in size. The Roco scales out about 2ft (8mm), the Farish 08 about 2' 3" (9.3mm), the Heljan L&B 2' 9" (11mm). Plenty of choice then, it should be possible to find a prototype to fit on one of those. The Farish 08 can be used under the Leek & Manifold loco, a kit for this will appear eventually. As for the Heljan loco, its design doesn't really lend itself to the chassis being used elsewhere. The motor is mounted in the body rather on the chassis, so separating them results in an unpowered chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Plenty of choice then, it should be possible to find a prototype to fit on one of those. The Farish 08 can be used under the Leek & Manifold loco, a kit for this will appear eventually. As for the Heljan loco, its design doesn't really lend itself to the chassis being used elsewhere. The motor is mounted in the body rather on the chassis, so separating them results in an unpowered chassis. Well I have had the bodies off several MWs and run the chassis without the body being replaced to test the Decoder installation, and they all ran fine! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pre Grouping fan Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 As for the Heljan loco, its design doesn't really lend itself to the chassis being used elsewhere. The motor is mounted in the body rather on the chassis, so separating them results in an unpowered chassis. You can split the chassis in two ways which I found out accidentally 1. Just removing the body using I think two screws mounted at each end. 2. Removing the plastic frames, wheels and gearing as a whole unit giving a free running chassis. With the motor left in the main chassis casting in the body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 25, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2019 It's a matter of terminology. The body is in two parts, upper and lower, or inner and outer. The motor is in the lower part, and this can be separated from the chassis as seen below. This is one from the first batch. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Chris Chewter Posted January 26, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 26, 2019 Managed to test run my "Yeo" earlier today and took a video of it running on my rolling road. Thankfully nothing fell off, however i can't help but worry that the plastic pins for the joy valve gear are man enough for the job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 (edited) My Four valve gear failures ( 3 Mk1 Locos 1 Mk 2 Loco) always ocurred when the locos were traversing curved track, All 4 failures were on the valve gear of the INSIDE of the curve, as though some sort of stress occurs, maybe because there is not enough side play available on the driving wheels to provide sufficient lateral movement of the valve gear. Maybe flangeless centre driving wheels would help, worth noting that ROCO H0e steam locos have flangless centre drivers on the Feldbahn 0-6-0 series locos and one set of drivers is flangless on the Engerth (0-8-0) The curves by the way are all not less than 14" radius. Edited January 26, 2019 by Stevelewis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyC Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 (edited) Managed to test run my "Yeo" earlier today and took a video of it running on my rolling road. Thankfully nothing fell off, however i can't help but worry that the plastic pins for the joy valve gear are man enough for the job. On the other hand on some of the Continental HOe locos I have all or part of the valve gear is plastic and they seem robust enough (or at least I haven't had a failure yet) Edited January 26, 2019 by JeremyC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 My Four valve gear failures ( 3 Mk1 Locos 1 Mk 2 Loco) always ocurred when the locos were traversing curved track, All 4 failures were on the valve gear of the INSIDE of the curve, as though some sort of stress occurs, maybe because there is not enough side play available on the driving wheels to provide sufficient lateral movement of the valve gear. Maybe flangeless centre driving wheels would help, worth noting that ROCO H0e steam locos have flangless centre drivers on the Feldbahn 0-6-0 series locos and one set of drivers is flangless on the Engerth (0-8-0) The curves by the way are all not less than 14" radius. That appears to be new information! How does this fit with other reported failures? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted January 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27, 2019 It’s not new, Steve’s mentioned it already somewhere, it’s the small drop link catching on the con rod and it locks up until the drive overpowers the rivet. Seen it on all three new ones of mine but after catching it on the first one at low speed I knew what I was looking for and bent the link slightly out and no more issues. On the inside seems counterintuitive for the lateral movement but I think it’s a coincidence as mine clashed on the straight or curve. On the one that only had it in one side it had no bearing on the direction of the curve, the other two were clashing both sides randomly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27, 2019 Collected my YEO form sorting office today (they now open on Sundays which is great). Its had a quick run on my oval test track but now needs a session on the rolling road before I start carrying out modifcations as per the other two. I notice on my YEO that one side of the linkage has been bent out a little so looks like Heljan are doing something with them, or its just a coincidence. I have adjusted the other side to match . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted January 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27, 2019 Just need to fettle mine ready for the Wimborne show, decoders are ready. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27, 2019 Just need to fettle mine ready for the Wimborne show, decoders are ready. I do need to fit decoders temporarily to them to test them on Santa Barbara fiddleyard to check they will run through the curves and turnouts. They wont fit through onto the scenic area that's for sure! They will get their own permanent decoders but hopefully sound once someone does a suitable sound for a suitable sized decoder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 I do need to fit decoders temporarily to them to test them on Santa Barbara fiddleyard to check they will run through the curves and turnouts. They wont fit through onto the scenic area that's for sure! They will get their own permanent decoders but hopefully sound once someone does a suitable sound for a suitable sized decoder. EDM Models are apparently in the process of developing a sound decoder,, wont be quite as simple a fitting job as the 10 mins it takes to fit a decoder into the 4-6-0T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted January 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27, 2019 I do need to fit decoders temporarily to them to test them on Santa Barbara fiddleyard to check they will run through the curves and turnouts. They wont fit through onto the scenic area that's for sure! They will get their own permanent decoders but hopefully sound once someone does a suitable sound for a suitable sized decoder. EDM certainly are as Paul has my mk1 Yeo for test and development fitting and will have mk2 as well just as soon as I get it to run right The decoders exist it’s just figuring the best fit 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted January 28, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 28, 2019 I will keep an eye out on EDM models website. YEO has been on the rolling road then the pony trucks adjusted as per my previous two. I notice that the front footplate isn't glued on like the previous ones so was easy to pull off and adjust the fitment before just plugging it back on. YEO is now running fine on the test oval with no pony truck derailments so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
swsjames Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Has anyone else had my problem? I took delivery of 9955 “Exe” today, chipped by Hattons, and tried to run it. Terrible! At first it wouldn’t run at all, then with some jiggling, it jerked forward a few centimetres then stalled again. I have spent an afternoon coaxing it up and down a test siding with little improvement. It runs slightly better bunker-first, but still not satisfactorily. I can’t programme a long address for it either, possibly because the electrical pick up is sporadic. I think it needs to go back to Hattons unless anyone can tell me i’m doing something really silly! Incidentally, no such problem with my 9950 “Yeo” from Kernow models on the same track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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