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Lynton & Barnstaple OO9 Loco from Heljan


Mike Bellamy
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Different to what? No prototype was specified. There may be other suitable chassis as well, choose the closest to your needs.

 

To the other two mentioned in your previous post! ;)

 

As far as I know, in RTR 9mm gauge, those are the only three 0-6-0 outside frame chassis and they are all different...

Edited by Hobby
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In 4mm scale the coupled wheelbase of the Roco HF110C scales out about 5' 6", the Farish N Gauge 08 about 6' and the Heljan L&B is 6' 6". The wheels also vary in size. The Roco scales out about 2ft (8mm), the Farish 08 about 2' 3" (9.3mm), the Heljan L&B 2' 9" (11mm).

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Rather an expensive way of getting a chassis, especially for OO9-ers who are renown for giving the Scots a run for their money when it comes to spending! ;)

 

I think the "issues" may put people off too, though as an 0-6-0 rather than a 2-6-2 chassis it may have some uses, adding your own pony trucks/bogies may solve most of the issues!

 

I  totally  agree  I  would  not consider  using  the   MW chassis in  its  current  form, I can  say  though that  when  I was revising  the  pony trucks  on  my  four locos,  and  running the  chassis  as  a 0-6-0  performance  was  superb  ( unfortunately all my locos  were  returned  due  to  valve  gear  failure)

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In 4mm scale the coupled wheelbase of the Roco HF110C scales out about 5' 6", the Farish N Gauge 08 about 6' and the Heljan L&B is 6' 6". The wheels also vary in size. The Roco scales out about 2ft (8mm), the Farish 08 about 2' 3" (9.3mm), the Heljan L&B 2' 9" (11mm).

 

Plenty of choice then, it should be possible to find a prototype to fit on one of those. The Farish 08 can be used under the Leek & Manifold loco, a kit for this will appear eventually.

As for the Heljan loco, its design doesn't really lend itself to the chassis being used elsewhere. The motor is mounted in the body rather on the chassis, so separating them results in an unpowered chassis.

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Plenty of choice then, it should be possible to find a prototype to fit on one of those. The Farish 08 can be used under the Leek & Manifold loco, a kit for this will appear eventually.

As for the Heljan loco, its design doesn't really lend itself to the chassis being used elsewhere. The motor is mounted in the body rather on the chassis, so separating them results in an unpowered chassis.

 

Well  I  have  had  the  bodies  off  several  MWs  and  run  the  chassis  without  the  body  being  replaced  to  test  the   Decoder  installation, and  they  all ran  fine!

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As for the Heljan loco, its design doesn't really lend itself to the chassis being used elsewhere. The motor is mounted in the body rather on the chassis, so separating them results in an unpowered chassis.

You can split the chassis in two ways which I found out accidentally

 

1. Just removing the body using I think two screws mounted at each end.

2. Removing the plastic frames, wheels and gearing as a whole unit giving a free running chassis. With the motor left in the main chassis casting in the body.

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It's a matter of terminology. The body is in two parts, upper and lower, or inner and outer. The motor is in the lower part, and this can be separated from the chassis as seen below.

post-6821-0-46273800-1548426334_thumb.jpg

This is one from the first batch.

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Managed to test run my "Yeo" earlier today and took a video of it running on my rolling road.  Thankfully nothing fell off, however i can't help but worry that the plastic pins for the joy valve gear are man enough for the job.

 

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My  Four valve   gear  failures   ( 3  Mk1  Locos  1 Mk 2 Loco)  always  ocurred  when the locos  were  traversing  curved  track,  All 4 failures were on the valve  gear of  the  INSIDE of  the  curve, as  though some  sort  of  stress occurs, maybe  because  there  is not  enough side play  available on  the  driving  wheels to  provide  sufficient  lateral  movement of the  valve  gear.

 

Maybe    flangeless  centre  driving  wheels  would  help,  worth noting  that  ROCO H0e  steam locos  have flangless  centre  drivers on  the  Feldbahn 0-6-0 series  locos

and one set of  drivers  is  flangless on  the  Engerth (0-8-0)

 

The  curves  by the  way   are all not  less  than   14"  radius.

Edited by Stevelewis
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Managed to test run my "Yeo" earlier today and took a video of it running on my rolling road.  Thankfully nothing fell off, however i can't help but worry that the plastic pins for the joy valve gear are man enough for the job.

 

On the other hand on some of the Continental HOe locos I have all or part of the valve gear is plastic and they seem robust enough (or at least I haven't had a failure yet)

Edited by JeremyC
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My  Four valve   gear  failures   ( 3  Mk1  Locos  1 Mk 2 Loco)  always  ocurred  when the locos  were  traversing  curved  track,  All 4 failures were on the valve  gear of  the  INSIDE of  the  curve, as  though some  sort  of  stress occurs, maybe  because  there  is not  enough side play  available on  the  driving  wheels to  provide  sufficient  lateral  movement of the  valve  gear.

 

Maybe    flangeless  centre  driving  wheels  would  help,  worth noting  that  ROCO H0e  steam locos  have flangless  centre  drivers on  the  Feldbahn 0-6-0 series  locos

and one set of  drivers  is  flangless on  the  Engerth (0-8-0)

 

The  curves  by the  way   are all not  less  than   14"  radius.

That appears to be new information! How does this fit with other reported failures?

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It’s not new, Steve’s mentioned it already somewhere, it’s the small drop link catching on the con rod and it locks up until the drive overpowers the rivet. Seen it on all three new ones of mine but after catching it on the first one at low speed I knew what I was looking for and bent the link slightly out and no more issues. On the inside seems counterintuitive for the lateral movement but I think it’s a coincidence as mine clashed on the straight or curve. On the one that only had it in one side it had no bearing on the direction of the curve, the other two were clashing both sides randomly.

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Collected my YEO form sorting office today (they now open on Sundays which is great).

 

Its had a quick run on my oval test track but now needs a session on the rolling road before I start carrying out modifcations as per the other two.

 

I notice on my YEO that one side of the linkage has been bent out a little so looks like Heljan are doing something with them, or its just a coincidence. I have adjusted the other side to match .

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Just need to fettle mine ready for the Wimborne show, decoders are ready.

 

I do need to fit decoders temporarily to them to test them on Santa Barbara fiddleyard to check they will run through the curves and turnouts. They wont fit through onto the scenic area that's for sure!

They will get their own permanent decoders but hopefully sound once someone does a suitable sound for a suitable sized decoder.

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I do need to fit decoders temporarily to them to test them on Santa Barbara fiddleyard to check they will run through the curves and turnouts. They wont fit through onto the scenic area that's for sure!

They will get their own permanent decoders but hopefully sound once someone does a suitable sound for a suitable sized decoder.

 

EDM Models  are apparently in the  process  of developing a  sound  decoder,,  wont  be quite  as simple a fitting  job  as  the  10 mins it  takes to  fit a decoder  into  the 4-6-0T

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I do need to fit decoders temporarily to them to test them on Santa Barbara fiddleyard to check they will run through the curves and turnouts. They wont fit through onto the scenic area that's for sure!

They will get their own permanent decoders but hopefully sound once someone does a suitable sound for a suitable sized decoder.

EDM certainly are as Paul has my mk1 Yeo for test and development fitting and will have mk2 as well just as soon as I get it to run right ;) The decoders exist it’s just figuring the best fit :)
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I will keep an eye out on EDM models website.

 

YEO has been on the rolling road then the pony trucks adjusted as per my previous two. I notice that the front footplate isn't glued on like the previous ones so was easy to pull off and adjust the fitment before just plugging it back on.

 

YEO is now running fine on the test oval with no pony truck derailments so far.

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Has anyone else had my problem? I took delivery of 9955 “Exe” today, chipped by Hattons, and tried to run it. Terrible! At first it wouldn’t run at all, then with some jiggling, it jerked forward a few centimetres then stalled again. I have spent an afternoon coaxing it up and down a test siding with little improvement. It runs slightly better bunker-first, but still not satisfactorily. I can’t programme a long address for it either, possibly because the electrical pick up is sporadic.

 

I think it needs to go back to Hattons unless anyone can tell me i’m doing something really silly!

 

Incidentally, no such problem with my 9950 “Yeo” from Kernow models on the same track.

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