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N Gauge Wickham Railbus


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Stuck together the second tester. This is using the Kato tram chassis (narrowed somewhat with a woodworking file) and a one piece shell without seating. It's a much more available chassis but the wheelbase is wrong. As such it seemed ideal for testing if adding the distinctive framing would hide that enough.

 

(Pardon the wonky battery box I've fixed that now) and the less said about the glazing the better.. different glue next time !
 
If my maths is right I can fit sound in too 8)
 
Alan

 

IMG_20130213_224035.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Etched Pixels, a few questions - do you have a wheelbase measurement for that Tomytec railbus chassis?

 

I'm about to do a 3D model of the AC cars 'bus for my own layout (N scale as well) but I'm thinking of adding an etched brass "stripe" around the windows to get sharp framing and the body 'beading' to show up well. That way, I can scrub down/apply filler to the side/roof and remove the layering/make it all really smooth, then apply an etch for the fine detail. Maybe do up a tiny PCB for interior/directional lighting and easy DCC wire-up as well. If I go to 'all the effort', I'll do up a few copies and make them available in some form for people that are interested.

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The wheelbase is about 34.5mm. Its got the advantage being very low but the wheels are way undersized so you end up with various things to hide as the floor level is too low so some work ends up being needed.

 

I'd been meaning to do the AC Cars one at some point but I've been doing this one first:

 

1952 BUT built railbuses - an AEC/Leyland project somewhat before the railbusses most people remember. They were successful enough that after the first evaluation British Railways took 11 cars into stock, and sufficiently unsuccessful in practice they all got withdrawn by 1961.

 

BUT.jpg

 

There is a small amount of guesswork in the area of the roof vents and the skirt steps. I've not found photographic evidence to tell me if the double doors for the guards compartment also had steps, or the roof vent finer details on the original units with skirt.

I picked the skirted one as it should make chassis a lot easier as all sorts of naughtiness on lengths and wheels can be hidden away.

 

Alan

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Alan, on the BUT unit it looks like you've made the guards compartment doors recessed, like the passenger door.This is not the way it looks in the photos I have, the guards doors appears to be flush with the body.There doesn't appear to be any steps for them either, so the skirt looks ok.

 

[The book The early years of London Diesels has two pictures of them in the mid 50s]

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Alan, on the BUT unit it looks like you've made the guards compartment doors recessed, like the passenger door.This is not the way it looks in the photos I have, the guards doors appears to be flush with the body.There doesn't appear to be any steps for them either, so the skirt looks ok.

 

[The book The early years of London Diesels has two pictures of them in the mid 50s]

 

Thanks.. I'll have to take a further look at that when I get the test prints back. It seems very hard to get good photos of them - especially the original unit.

 

Alan

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Been working through other images - as you say the guards doors are flush except for the hinges. It also confirms that the drawings of the roof vents are wrong as  though so I got the roof bits right at least 8) They also show I messed up the footsteps - the real ones on the original unit are semicircular not rectangular.

 

Still not found a photo in colour of the grey/red/grey livery to confirm the shades but I can do some educated guesswork there.

 

Other mystery is the exhaust - it seems at least one of them was retrofitted with a roof level exhaust.

 

http://www.davidheyscollection.com/page11.htm (fairly late on in the page)

 

 

I've not decided whether to also try and do a production unit - the lack of skirts makes the chassis a tricky problem, while the skirted one allows me to get away with murder.

 

 

I keep looking at the LMS articulated unit but I'm not sure my 3D print skills are up to all those curves!

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Still not found a photo in colour of the grey/red/grey livery to confirm the shades but I can do some educated guesswork there.

 

Alan,

 

There are two colour photos of these units in "The Early Years of London Diesels" by Michael Welch (published by Capital Transport in 2002). One photo taken in the mid 50s at St.Albans Abbey, with a second photo taken at Harrow and Wealdstone on 11th April 1954 and with car car M79742 nearest the camera.

 

Andy

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And its companion - some detailing left to do. I've been building a Baguely/Drewry type B railbus toolkit so I can also do the trailer and maybe some of the other similar covered railcars.

 

DrewrySmall.jpg

 

Also need to clarify if the body curves in a shade at the bottom (the two bits I found disagree!) and maybe see if I can also print the funky steps on it.

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  • 4 months later...

So I now have the BUT one running on a much abused Fleischmann chassis.

 

The "Flying Matchbox" is proving trickier. I think I may go for an etched chassis instead of trying to 3D print it. The wall thickness causes too many "interesting" problems. Possibly etched with a 3D printed motor holder and some kind of printed NEM socket/spacers.

 

The current chassis sort of works but the friction on the drive is far too high. I'm hoping it'll improve with running but I fear not sufficiently.

 

Motor for "Flying Matchbox"

 

2

 

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  • 1 year later...

I'm attempting this kit . I have the Tomix chassis and have adapted it ok, but I'm wondering what you did about the lights. Can they be disconnected without affecting the motor ? Otherwise they'll flow through the 3D printed body in the wrong place! Also do you have any ref for the interior colour scheme at all, in BR green days? Thanks, your model looks great !

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  • 4 weeks later...

I didn't do anything about the lights I'm afraid - my version of the Tomix chassis didn't come with lights !

 

I've found little reference to the interior colour schemes. From the photos I think the following is fairly reliable info

 

- sides of drivers compartment white or cream, other internal panels hard to tell some pictures look cream others are less clear and

  might be that tacky formica look the DMUs had

- seats: same pattern as most standard DMU seats were (colour - presumably likewise)

 

Sorry I can't help more

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I'm attempting this kit . I have the Tomix chassis and have adapted it ok, but I'm wondering what you did about the lights. Can they be disconnected without affecting the motor ? Otherwise they'll flow through the 3D printed body in the wrong place! Also do you have any ref for the interior colour scheme at all, in BR green days? Thanks, your model looks great !

 

I've always had an idea to use fibre optic LED lamps you can buy off Ebay for AUD10 and using resistors can be connected directly to the 12V supply. You should be able to thread the fibre optics through the front headlamp holes. Maybe you could have a look into that?

 

Alan, how did you paint the white lines with such accuracy? At the moment I'm having a bit of trouble trying to draw strain lines with a brush in N scale...

 

Alan

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