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"Ivor the engine" comes of age, in 7mm, by OzzyO & friends.


ozzyo

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Paul B

 

The masters for the chimney and dome are 3D printed but they are cast in resin a bit of a sanding after priming and they will be ok, OzzyO was trying to get the model ready to take to Telford so a few steps may have been missed, the paint was the reason why it did not make it to the show.

 

Pete

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  • 2 weeks later...
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OK, I have my etches :) and now am planning the build whilst I wait for the cast parts and the instructions etc. First thoughts are to adding compensation to the undriven axle. I have no experience of Slaters hornblocks, so does the community think that they will be suitable (part number 7961)? I'm just going for a rocking axle like the High Level OO Pug chassis kit

 

cheers

 

Ian

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OK, I have my etches :) and now am planning the build whilst I wait for the cast parts and the instructions etc. First thoughts are to adding compensation to the undriven axle. I have no experience of Slaters hornblocks, so does the community think that they will be suitable (part number 7961)? I'm just going for a rocking axle like the High Level OO Pug chassis kit

 

cheers

 

Ian

 

 

Unfortunately Craig Ivor will not be ready for general release until after Warley as neither Ian or OzzyO will have there models completed by then. 

 

 

lol, not a problem. I'm a novice so I'd rather the experts take the time to make it easier for me!

 

Hello all,

 

first to Ian, if your going to use Slater's horn blocks, why not use the sprung ones on all of the axles? More so when you get six in the set.

The instructions I'll not be able to start doing for a couple of weeks due to the Barrow exhibition this weekend  (sixth form collage Sat and Sun) . If any one wants to see the prototype Ivor I'll take him along. The weekend after I'm working on a big project that I'm involved with.

 

As Pete has said, he wanted to get the kit as good as he can, so this has taken a bit longer than both Pete and myself had thought it would. Most of that has been down to myself (I can be a bit of a bu99er for detail). I think that I've asked Pete to redrawn Ivor three times. Not because the basic loco was wrong, but I wanted the kit to work first time for anyone who had not built a kit before.

 

I'm not sure about the experts bit, all I do is knock bits of brass about and end up with a loco. We all can do it. To give you ideas about how Ivor is going to be built you will have to go back to the first page, but some parts have been changed.

I will do a full photo build of the production Ivor starting in the next week or so.

The photo build will be most of the instructions. So when I start on them if you're not sure about anything PLEASE ask at the time.

 

OzzyO. 

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Hello all,

 

first to Ian, if your going to use Slater's horn blocks, why not use the sprung ones on all of the axles? More so when you get six in the set.

dunno, never used them, in fact the O gauge Pug rebuild was the first time I've ever done anything other than a solid chassis! Do you not have to get weight distribution right etc with sprung ones?

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Gearbox arrived today, excellent service from Premier and sure looks meaty :)

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0308.JPG

 

This is a Mashima version, but the mounting holes are also perfect for the motor I bought off a fellow member at a bargain price :)

 

That wouldn't be from a gentleman from the far South-West would it?  If so, I've got a couple on the way.  What's your initial impression of the motor?

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seem ok, as I said , fits the gearbox, just got to find some screws ....

 

only test run here at work on an old Clipper, nice and quiet. I want to fit one to my old Pug too, so might get that sorted sooner rather than later - that's using Romford gears (OO) in a home made (not by me) cradle

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dunno, never used them, in fact the O gauge Pug rebuild was the first time I've ever done anything other than a solid chassis! Do you not have to get weight distribution right etc with sprung ones?

 

Hello Ian,

 

if your going to use Slater's axle box's you don't have to worry about the weight distribution. As the axle box's ride hard against the screw stops. That is that the axle and wheels will be pushed down in to any hollows in the track.

 

Weight distribution, with these axle boxes just try and get the CoG between the driving wheels.

 

The hardest thing to do is to is to start cutting out the spokes of the wheels. For pick-ups try using the Alan Gibson ones that are for 4mm.

 

OzzyO.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did tell you to hang on, I'll start on Ivor on Sat. just for you. I'll give you a tip the splashers have more fold lines than the last time.

The one for the outside is at 90deg. the top one on the inside is at 45 deg. then the next one will bring it back to vertical.

 

OzzyO.

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