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Rob Pulham's 7mm Workbench - Back to the LNER 06 (MOK 8F)


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Hi Tony,

 

If you haven't got one yet I believe it is temporarily withdrawn for updating. I will be interested to see what has improved - it seems superb to me as it is.

 

How is the K3 doing? It was looking mighty fine despite the issues at your last update.

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My 8F kit is 3-4 years old, so I guess it will be similar to yours Rob. The latest K3 pic is on the Derby Line thread, I've just started the tender, but nice weather is keeping me outside!

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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More progress has been made despite having to deviate from the instructions slightly. The instructions tell you to solder a 10ba nut onto a recess on the frames to locate the cylinders. Initially I struggled to lo locate the recess as it is in fact a hole (there was a half etched recess for locating the bearings for the compensation beam so I was looking for something similar for this).

 

Having decided to leave the nuts off until I could clear up where they go in a moment of clarity I then pretty much guessed the location. However by this time I had made a start on the cylinders and having folded them up and soldered a 10ba nut to each of them. I brought them t the frames and confirmed that I had been right in my assumption of where they locate and the location of the 10ba nuts on the frames. This however left me puzzled as if I solder a nut to the frames then a screw would pass through this nut, through the frames, through the rear of the cylinder and into the nut soldered inside the cylinder. I decided to leave it off. for now as I can still access it to add them if needed later.

 

The other bits of guess work were two 6ba nuts that hold the motor support (there are half etched recesses for location but then no real indication of which way around the bracket goes that they are attached to and it can fit either way). I took an educated guess and soldered it with the nuts on the opposite side as to where I expected the screws to come from. There was a similar situation with two strips that mount on the outsides of the frames each having a 10ba nut soldered to them. I reasoned that anything being screwed to them would most likely come from underneath so I mounted them with the nuts upper most. However with these I wasn't quite as confident so I have only soldered the tabs at present just in case I have it wrong.

 

Having soldered up the cylinders and the frame (I mounted it in my Hobby Holidays jig to solder the tabs after ensuring all was square before going on to solder all the seams) after I had removed all the tabs and cleaned up I couldn't resist putting the wheels in temporarily to see how it runs and so far so good.

 

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Hi Rob,

 

From what you have done so far has made me realise MOK is in a different class to what I am use to dealing with, is there still the overlays to add to the frame sides ? Look's like you have also chemically blackened the wheels, this is one of the first jobs I do and it makes such a difference in my opinion. Enjoying this thread so keep up the good work ;).

 

ATB, Martyn.

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Looks really neat Rob, looks like this build will be a long one seeing all those bits.

 

Thanks Paul,

 

That's just the start of it. There are another 2 A3 sheets of etch and masses of brass castings to go yet.yahoo.gif

 

 

 

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Hi Rob,

 

From what you have done so far has made me realise MOK is in a different class to what I am use to dealing with, is there still the overlays to add to the frame sides ? Look's like you have also chemically blackened the wheels, this is one of the first jobs I do and it makes such a difference in my opinion. Enjoying this thread so keep up the good work ;).

 

ATB, Martyn.

 

Hi Martyn, I agree the scary thing is that this is one of the older kits and is currently being updated. I cannot wait for Dave Sharp to bring out the D49.

 

I haven't seen any frame overlays but I am not saying that they aren't lurking in there some where. On the wheel blacking front I have just rubbed the backs clean so that I can solder some wires in to short one side out - I am going to try the "American" method of pick up for the first time on this one. Pity I didn't think that far ahead when I blackened them in the first place.

 

I have to admit I find wheel blacking very therapeutic and I usually try to plan to do as many as I can in a batch and make an evenings work of it.

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  • 2 months later...

It's been a while since I updated this as I was waiting for parts for the brake cross beams for the A3 to arrive from Ragstone. They have now arrived as indeed has a second lot that I have ordered for the W1 so now I just need a day when I can concentrate and get the whole chassis assembled and running.

 

Watch this space!!

 

I have also made a little progress on the 06 having shorted out the wheels at one side using a method recomended by Mike Cole (Resseldar of this parish).

 

This involves drilling both the centre boss and the back of the wheel rim; cutting groove in the back of the spoke and soldering in a piece of nickel or brass rod. This is then rubbed flat on a piece of emery sat on a sheet of plate glass giving the result below.

 

post-6713-0-57931800-1316117068_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Well 3 months later I have made some more progress on Papyrus - I think that my getting nearer to having the layout space that I want something besides Severn running to test it with.

 

I assembled the brakes ready for fitting to the chassis. I threaded the ends of the brake cross beams so that they can be removed if needs be. All the part's in the photo are Ragstone castings with the exception of the cylinders and the rear linkage rods that are 1mm brass rod with short sections of tube and 16BA nuts to create the turnbuckle type adjusters.

 

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I have started on a couple of brackets to locate the brake cylinders, which are the last bits that I need before assembling it (I hopeconfused.png )

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That's the way to do it; oh yes it is; oh no it isn't etc. Grand to see some bits being dealt with lad. Looks like a right faff to me but I'm only a coach builder bodger. :angel:

I built a 7mm LMS Brake van once. That was enough 7mm for me for a few years!!

ATB P @ 36E

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Rob, what bits did you order from Ragstone? I will need to do the same, but wouldn't know what the bits are CALLED.

How did you know?

Sometimes instructions in a kit give a name, rather than a number, to a part and often that name is fairly accurate. If you look at the Ragstone Models website there is a bit about requesting a digital copy of Ragstone's parts list. The list gives a number and a description to each part and if you send an e-mail to Andy, detailing parts of interest, he will reply with photos of individual castings. Alternatively, ask Andy for a details and photos of those parts are in his range which are relevant to his model.

 

If you are doing an A3 or an A4, you could ask about water scoop shafts and rods... do not expect any in quick return as Andy is waiting on Dwight coming to Mallard's party just so that we can see how it was done!

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Rob, what bits did you order from Ragstone? I will need to do the same, but wouldn't know what the bits are CALLED.

How did you know?

 

Hi Jeff if you PM me your email address I will send you a copy of my order form with the parts on it.

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  • 1 month later...

More work on the A3, but not in the construction of it. :no:

 

My progress has been on the painting of the body work. To be honest I put the first coat of green on the tender over 12 months ago but not I have the spray booth I took the opportunity to make a bit more progress.

 

Another coat was put on the tender. So far so good.

 

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I then took the plunge and started on the boiler/footplate. The first side went well..

 

A3painted004-1.jpg

 

Then it all went wrong and I got lots of runs....

 

A3painted006.jpg

 

A3painted007.jpg

 

Still all was not lost as the first coat on the cab went on OK.

 

A3painted008.jpg

 

A3painted009.jpg

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Thanks Christian,

 

The paint is Railmatch Acrylic LNER Doncaster Green. later tonight I plan to have a go with some fine wet and dry stuck to the wide flat lolly type sticks with double sided tape and used wet.

 

I have also realised that when I did the first coat on the tender that I had carefully measured everything out. But this time, not have done any airbrushing in between I had completely forgotten and I just dumped some in the jar and mixed it. Having come to this conclusion I think that I have got off rather lightly.

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  • 1 month later...

Although I haven't posted on this for a while steady progress has been made with the painting. I managed to remove the run and all the green is done along with a start on the black. I am taking it steady with this so i don't make a mess.

 

a couple of shot's of the cab to be going on with.

 

LYRailmotor003.jpg

 

LYRailmotor002.jpg

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Painting has been making steady progress and I am now at the point where I think I can begin lining the beast.

 

I have given it a coat of varnish and I plan to varnish again once the lining is on. Lining will be a mixture of bow pen transfers and fine brush.

 

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