RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 What's happened to my post above???^ (Time for a bit more (job) work, joy) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 (Interlude whilst waiting for work servers to sort themselves out...) Paul, nice photo but I need no enouragement! It was the special offer on the Kernow / Dapol BWT that was the final push. Yes I have one on pre-order. Coach-wise I'm thinking of a Maunsell D2401/2 Brake Composite but the 7mm suppliers are new to me. The mangled post was ok until I editted it by correcting a typo. It then glitched and saved like that, with all the code. It's weird!! Some of the links; i.e. the Google ones do not work. Be careful with the width if you are going to use 3 link couplings. Make sure you can reach over to the rear, uncouple/ couple up and see what you are doing. Best try on a table with a couple of wagons and a coupling hook. As you are keen on the KMRC/Dapol Beattie WT, I assume you are modelling early 50s? What coach are you thinking of modelling? Anyway, to encourage you...... PC300071.JPG I've got one on order from KMRC; so with my kit built one as well, I could reproduce this! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted March 24, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2013 One thing with small layouts, I try to ensure the headshunt is large enough to take a tender loco as well as tank engines. You may not plan to have one but when you can't resist a kit and it is for the next layout when I build it. It is very useful to be able to test other locos. On my shunting layout I set mine at about 16 ins so I could run the Bulldog. It also meant there was room for a tank engine and the toad on the headshunt. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 Don, last night I sat and worked out the lengths of a N Class, T9 and one of those Spamy things...just in case you understand.... One thing with small layouts, I try to ensure the headshunt is large enough to take a tender loco as well as tank engines. You may not plan to have one but when you can't resist a kit and it is for the next layout when I build it. It is very useful to be able to test other locos. On my shunting layout I set mine at about 16 ins so I could run the Bulldog. It also meant there was room for a tank engine and the toad on the headshunt. Don 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 Now can't edit the above post... What's going on today? I was going to add that I'm aiming for a headshunt on no less than 24". (Thant should do for a Merchant Navy) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted March 24, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2013 (edited) this is as close as I could get after a few hours with a new program. (I suspect I'll have to try and master Templot for the real thing) Hi Chris, I have made a start in Templot for you. This is just a straight copy of your original, but you could try converting the turnouts to 3-way tandems to get more space (baseboard joints permitting). 0-MF gauge. There is a clear run-round of 37". Tracks to the fiddle yard cross the joint square at 12" and 31" from the bottom. The data file is attached below (raw timbering, no shoving done): Data file: 2_many_spams_0mf_2013_03_24_1642_52.box regards, Martin. Edited March 24, 2013 by martin_wynne 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 Hi Chris, I have made a start in Templot for you. This is just a straight copy of your original, but you could try converting the turnouts to 3-way tandems to get more space (baseboard joints permitting). 0-MF gauge. There is a clear run-round of 37". Tracks to the fiddle yard cross the joint square at 12" and 31" from the bottom. The data file is attached below (raw timbering, no shoving done): 2_many_spams2.png 2_many_spams1.png 2_many_spams_overlay.png 2_many_spams_sb.png Data file: 2_many_spams_0mf_2013_03_24_1642_52.box regards, Martin. You star Martin! Thousands of thanks, much appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 Ok chaps, these are the four wagons I'm starting with, the first was the Slaters BR Shock Wagon, the three Parkside kits were Christmas presents - an SR van, LMS van and and SR Pillbox Brake Van. Starts have been made on the shock wagon and SR van. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 Templot 2 downloaded - time for a play, and to look up what sleeper shoving refers to.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A1X Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 will be following this with interest , its thanks to a pill box ,that i have started modelling the southern in oo. so slightly similar . and a layout that begins with a T . look forward to seeing this develop . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbishop Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Chris, A couple of wrinkles on Parkside kits. I slip a Peco fibre washer between the top hat bearing and the axle box, to obviate the slop. And I solder up the Parkside coupling then drill a hole for the links; oh and I make my own links out of NiAg wire then use two of my links and one Fe link (from the kit) so that I can use a magnetic coupling hook. Bill 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Templot 2 downloaded - time for a play, and to look up what sleeper shoving refers to.... In my case, it's when my wife decides she wants more than half the bed... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 Chris, A couple of wrinkles on Parkside kits. I slip a Peco fibre washer between the top hat bearing and the axle box, to obviate the slop. And I solder up the Parkside coupling then drill a hole for the links; oh and I make my own links out of NiAg wire then use two of my links and one Fe link (from the kit) so that I can use a magnetic coupling hook. Bill Thanks Bill - discovered the axle box slop already! Had to take the bearings out and put a little packing in. Thankfully I discovered this before I put the axle boxes on, which removing the bearings much easier. Not got as far as the 3-links or couplings yet.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 24, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2013 Damian and the BCB crew arrived back from Ally Pally about 90 mins ago and left me with some 0 Gauge track from C&L. Nice. I suspect my response was the same as many others.... 'the track is big and the points are long'. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
durham light infantry Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Damian and the BCB crew arrived back from Ally Pally about 90 mins ago and left me with some 0 Gauge track from C&L. Nice. I suspect my response was the same as many others.... 'the track is big and the points are long'. But it is a whole new skill set, and something new and exciting. The rewards and sense of satisfaction will be in proportion to the change in scale. Enjoy Mike 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Yes, a certainly that was one of the things I found a bit of a shock, a Peco point is about 16" long so on a standard 4x2 board you don't get much change out of two points end to end. You can of course make 'tighter' points by making them yourself, but as 6" radius is the minimum recommended by the Gauge O Guild, that's what the Peco points are made to, when in fact there's plenty of opportunity for tighter points in a yard, for example, which is where most of us model unless you have a massive loft/garage to play with, or a garden layout. That's why so many build their own trackwork, as you can do tighter radii, interlock points, and of course things like the 3 way aren't available from Peco either. Have you looked at the Marcway range? It may be an option for "ready made track" if there are items you are having trouble making. http://www.marcway.co.uk/ogpwork.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Will be interesting to see how you build the SR brakevan, as i've just finished mine. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 25, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2013 Will be interesting to see how you build the SR brakevan, as i've just finished mine. Yes, spotted that in your thread and had a good read. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbishop Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Chris, A few thoughts on brake composite coaches. The LSWR started building corridor brake compos. in 1907; the last one (to SR D411) went in 1958. Nothing available from the trade, but there could be developments soon. These were followed by the Lynes' D2401, with the same diagram used for those coaches that ran singly and those that were paired with a brake third. Slaters produce a plastic kit for the D2401, but their brake third is the 4 compartment variant. Slaters provided me with some spare parts and I cut and shut the 6 compartment one. Bulleid produced different diagrams for the solo coaches (D2406) and those in two coach sets (D2405). Westdale produce Aluminium stampings that make up into very nice models. It has been mentioned in this thread that Slaters can provide an etched bogie, with a reputation to be fiddly. But they do make up into an excellent model. Personally, I use Way-Oh bogies - very simple, very robust and very reliable. Bill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 25, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2013 Thanks Bill - I failed to say that thankfully I know my way around the various Diagram Numbers for Southern coaches from those built / modified / being built for the 00 Layout Treneglos. I've also acquired a long list of Southern coach books from the likes of Mike King and MRC have loads of armchair research material! It's the availability and fidelity of the various 7mm offerings that I'm lost on at the moment, so your comments are a big help here. Looking at various reviews of the Slaters' Maunsell coaches, the consensus appears to be that they are good and it is best to go for the brass bogies. I must admit I'm happier (and have better results) working in plastic, so it could be that the initial coach will be a Maunsell D2401 (7C023). Visually I also think the older 'look' of the Maunsell will better suit my ideas for the layout rather than the more modern Bulleid. Maunsell coaches (in the form of P Sets) were used on the Bodmin North runs so it sort of fits with the back story I'm thinking up. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/17090-slaters-o-gauge-maunsell-coach-kits/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 25, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2013 That's always the way! You identify and purchase all the bits you need to scratchbuild a LSWR 56' Brake tri-compo and somebody threatens a commercial product. Too true, I've lost count of how many things I've built only to have them produced RTR.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbishop Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 That's always the way! You identify and purchase all the bits you need to scratchbuild a LSWR 56' Brake tri-compo and somebody threatens a commercial product. Paul, It wouldn't be a commercial product, more an aid to scratchbuilding. You might want to hang fire on cutting plasticard for a few weeks. More information later. Bill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 25, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2013 Thanks by the way to everyone that has commented so far on the proposed track plan - it's been in my mind for months and the urge to get it out into the real world for consideration came this last weekend whilst the BCB crew were down in Ally Pally. Looks like it's a goer, although i'm fairly certain the boards will now be 2'9" deep for accessibility. The right hand point may be moved right a little but, apart from that, the trackplan seems workable and the Templot version Martin produced flows beautifully. For me though, the scene is just as important as the trackplan and some of my favourite scenes from the real Bodmin / Wenford area have mentally found places on the layout. Difficult to show you guys though as the images are copyrighted. I'm going to have a crack at redoing that corrupted post with all the links though, if I can find suitable images to link. This won't be a quick hit like BCB though, as it will have to fit in around life, work and other commitments, but I'm already planning baseboards ready for making when the weather gets warmer! Timescales aren't important to me on this project - the KMRC / Dapol Beattie is some way off and that suits me. As I've mentioned a few times, all help is appreciated and welcome, particularly that pointing out 'obvious' issues with 7mm things I'm about to embark on. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 25, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2013 Hi Stubby! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 25, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2013 Chris, A question for you - how much would you expect the baseboards to cost for this layout ? I've bought some 5mm ply to build mine, at almost £200, and I'm not convinced it was value for money. I know Damian builds boards that would shore up Jerico, so I wondered if yours would be similar in construction and therefore price. Stu 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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