RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 30, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hi thereI'm hoping to start building the signal box at Wainfleet station soon. I have the dimensions sorted an views of all sides. I've seen some fantastic signal boxes on rmweb, and while their standard is going to be out of my grasp, I really would like to do my best at scratch building one rather than do a "close enough" kit.I'm just wondering how to put together the structure of the building in the first place. I was going to use card for the lower section, but I'm worried that as the upper section is mostly windows it won't be very strong (there only seems to be about 4" above the front windows. Also, the windows are sliding ones, so i'll have some in front and some behind. Are here any obvious techniques I should think about? Or a preferred way of doing things?I'm sorry this is such an open ended question, i have a bit of an idea, but not much. Any help would be gratefully received! CheersJason Edited the link, the original photo was removed from Flickr so replaced it with a similar photo that I took. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Train Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hi Jason, I have a thread ( model signal box portfolio ) on the permanent way and signalling thread, should prove helpful. cheers Peter A L. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hi there I'm hoping to start building the signal box at Wainfleet station soon. I have the dimensions sorted an views of all sides. I've seen some fantastic signal boxes on rmweb, and while their standard is going to be out of my grasp, I really would like to do my best at scratch building one rather than do a "close enough" kit. I'm just wondering how to put together the structure of the building in the first place. I was going to use card for the lower section, but I'm worried that as the upper section is mostly windows it won't be very strong (there only seems to be about 4" above the front windows. Also, the windows are sliding ones, so i'll have some in front and some behind. Are here any obvious techniques I should think about? Or a preferred way of doing things? I'm sorry this is such an open ended question, i have a bit of an idea, but not much. Any help would be gratefully received! Wainfleet Signal Box by nottsexminer, on Flickr Cheers Jason Hi Jason, very nice signal box, maybe I can help. For steps, barge boards, finials, hand rails and all the typical signal box fittings call Jerry of FREESTONE MODELS on - 01993 775979 and for signal box brass etched windows call Bob Wyatt of SCALELINK on 01747 811817. Below I have put up two pictures of signal boxes that I built utilising the fore said components. Oh, and in order to achieve upper storey strength build the box as all one piece out of 2mil clear styrene - a virtual 'glass' box - and 'plant' everything else onto it. Allan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Oh, and Jason. It's not out of your grasp as you put it, just think your way through it, take your time and your's will be another one of those 'fantastic signal boxes' that you said you saw on RMweb! And if you think that maybe I can be of any further help then please don't hesitate in asking for it. That's what we are all here for and if I don't know the answer, Iain Robinson won't either! I jest of course, in fact he might be more help than me... er... did I say might.... Cheers Iain! Allan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 30, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hi Allan and Peter Thanks so much to you both. I didn't think of doing the structure in clear plastic. I'll be heading up to my "local" model shop in a couple of weeks (it's not very local!), so I'll grab some clear styrene from there, and I'll definitely check out Freestone and Scalelink. I'll start it in a few weeks, so as it's not going to be card I'll update a thread in the structures forum as I progress. cheers Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Oh, and Jason. It's not out of your grasp as you put it, just think your way through it, take your time and your's will be another one of those 'fantastic signal boxes' that you said you saw on RMweb! And if you think that maybe I can be of any further help then please don't hesitate in asking for it. That's what we are all here for and if I don't know the answer, Iain Robinson won't either! I jest of course, in fact he might be more help than me... er... did I say might.... Cheers Iain! Allan. I was thinking the same as I read the first post of this thread and was going to write something similar but Iain beat me to it. NOTHING is beyond your grasp! Ok, gratituous self back slapping post here, but if you check my Bridlington Station Budings thread, the first building I had a go at was a signal box. It turned out ok, even though I'd never really tried a decent scratch build. The most important thing for me was not to jump in, but have a real good ponder about how to do things and which options were available. I can post a link to my thread, but don't want to be too presumptious. Just have a go, (plasticard is a couple of quid a sheet, so hopefully, that's a couple of quid spent on a couple of happy hours), and see how it goes. If it's pants, there's many on here who will give good advice on how to improve on it next time. Have a go, post a couple of pictures, but most of all, enjoy! Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Hi there I'm hoping to start building the signal box at Wainfleet station soon. I have the dimensions sorted an views of all sides. I've seen some fantastic signal boxes on rmweb, and while their standard is going to be out of my grasp, I really would like to do my best at scratch building one rather than do a "close enough" kit. I'm just wondering how to put together the structure of the building in the first place. I was going to use card for the lower section, but I'm worried that as the upper section is mostly windows it won't be very strong (there only seems to be about 4" above the front windows. Also, the windows are sliding ones, so i'll have some in front and some behind. Are here any obvious techniques I should think about? Or a preferred way of doing things? I'm sorry this is such an open ended question, i have a bit of an idea, but not much. Any help would be gratefully received! Wainfleet Signal Box by nottsexminer, on Flickr Cheers Jason Hi Jason, firstly, that is a beautiful looking prototype, I am quite inspired to build it myself. I can see why you want to build it. I think the windows are the most important feature and it is wise to try and source those first. Don't make them yourself...there's bound to be some out there, either etched brass or laser cut card. Some of the new laser cut examples are superb. One thing to watch out for that has caught me out a couple of times is the interior dimension of the box...in building a strong structure I often forget to allow enough space inside for the fittings and what have you. Not so critical on a reasonable sized box like this, but a bit of a fiddle on a small one. To get over that, I generally build a base first, using Will's brick embossed plastic or whatever you fancy...then once everything is square and dandy, I run four pieces of brass section up from ground level to the height of the eaves. These are basically the corner king posts of the box, as per the prototype. The windows can then be hung on these...either glued or soldered, depending on what you are using. It makes for a very strong structure. You could also use the excellent Evergreen section instead of brass....that stuff is a joy to build with. As my learned colleagues have said much better than me above, just build it, you will surprise yourself...and most importantly, show us what you've done! I am keen to see how you get on. And, as Allan says, don't be afraid to ask, for any further advice you might need. cheers, Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Another thing... if the idea of using King posts doesn't appeal, I have in the past cut out the main window openings from .020" styrene, including the king posts and the secondary mullions etc. This is a chunk of card which is as deep as the brick base and fits behind it. You can then fix your windows onto this, using microstrip to give different levels for the sashes etc. I'm sorry if this is too obvious, but I thought I'd mention it. Of course, glazing is tricky, and this is where Allan's method scores very highly. cheers, Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 IMG_0309.jpg Verrry nice, Allan! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted April 1, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2013 Thanks so much for that Iain, I feel very lucky that you have all replied and it's certainly got me thinking. As this will be the first time that I've done one, I might go with the clear box. I'm just wondering if the old cd cases (if they are big enough) I have from old software will do the job or if they'll be too brittle. There's only one way to find out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Thanks so much for that Iain, I feel very lucky that you have all replied and it's certainly got me thinking. As this will be the first time that I've done one, I might go with the clear box. I'm just wondering if the old cd cases (if they are big enough) I have from old software will do the job or if they'll be too brittle. There's only one way to find out. I have a feeling that the type of plastic used for CD cases doesn't respond to solvent glues so I would check this out first by dabbing some Plasticweld or Mekpak onto the plastic and if just just runs off instead of 'attacking' it, then you'll know. Personaly I wouldn't mess about and buy a couple of sheets of clear styrene that's right for the job - oh, and I'm sure that the type of plastic used for CD cases is indeed brittle and doesn't cut so readily. But with all due respect, if you're going to do it, do it right and use all the right materials. Cheers. Allan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted April 1, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2013 Will do, I definitely don' want to make it more difficult than it needs to be! In that case I can pick up some plastic in a couple of weeks at Supertrain in Calgary. It'll give me time to put plans together. I'm looking forward to it now Cheers Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Train Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Hi JCL, here are a few taken from my hard drive i did a while back, they are constructed from 40thou plastcard but not two seperate pieces as in top and bottom, the wall sections are all one piece. please let me know, if you require me to delete the post photos once you have seen them so as not to fill youir thread with photos, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Absolutely devastating!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The Main Man does it again!!!! SUPERB!!!! Allan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain C Robinson Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Those photos are very impressive, GT! I look and learn...I particularly like the NE style cabin, the windows are very nicely done. cheers, Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted April 1, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 1, 2013 They are fantastic!! Please don't feel the need to delete them! I will keep coming back to them and your signal box thread when I start the build. cheers Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Thanks so much for that Iain, I feel very lucky that you have all replied and it's certainly got me thinking. As this will be the first time that I've done one, I might go with the clear box. I'm just wondering if the old cd cases (if they are big enough) I have from old software will do the job or if they'll be too brittle. There's only one way to find out. I use clear CD cases for glazing on a regular basis, they take normal solvents fine, and I either build up the glazing bars using microstrip (I am tight and cut my own from plastic containers that display the number 6 recycling logo as that type of plastic is basically styrene and takes solvents) or I use sticky labels and then cut out the window shapes using a sharp scalpel, picking out the panes leaving just a frame as per Chubbers method which is in this section of the forum further down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Train Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Hi Ian, Alan and Jason, cheers for your apreciative comments, i'm flattered :-) cheers Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted April 4, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 4, 2013 No problem! I'm going to ask for this to be moved to structures seeing as I'm going to be using plasticine for the shell etc. Thanks everyone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mod4 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Duly moved, many thanks for highlighting the request via the report function as that is always the most efficient way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknich2003 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 A couple of pictures of a Hull & Barnsley signalbox I made last year. I normaly work in metal, so working in plastic was a bit of a novelty, and indeed, I did often feel like a raw begine. I post these two pictures as encouragement, just keep at it and you will get there. If you look back a few pages, you will see other pictures starting from "Day One" of the project. Mick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted April 5, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 5, 2013 Thanks Mick, that's great! How did you do the finials? I visited Wainfleet station the last time I was in England and took a load of photos; I'm on my iPad, right now, so I'll post some tomorrow as there are a couple of quirks on the building. Anyway, I was able to put some photos into photoshop , manipulate them, and come up with a plan. I'm going to use. Plastic card shell (as opposed to plasticine mentioned above, good old autocorrect), then cover the brick portion with the manipulated photos. This will ensure that the colouring and variations in the bricks are correct. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknich2003 Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 My original intention was to turn the finials on the lathe, but I then found white metal castings. If you intend to stick photo's onto your Plasticard shell, also stick similar to the inside faces, otherwise your model will warp. I found this out the hard way, best part of 50 years ago. Mick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted April 5, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 5, 2013 Thanks for the tip Mick. Here are some photos of the box in question. Funny, there's always a couple of views you forget to take. For these I'm using Flickr and Google Streetview. Anyway, the back of the roof has a slice out of it to accommodate the footbridge that used to almost but up to it. You might be able to just see that the guttering isn't quite straight. Unfortunately the last time I was there they had installed a huge box to the side of the signal box and a load of cabinets behind it. The fellers in it were talking about it being "retired". My grandad used to say that they only knock stuff down once they've repainted it, so here's hoping they don't get their brushes out any time soon! These photos are from 2000. For anyone that likes quirks, you'll notice that the crossing gates have three diamonds on the left and only two on the right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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