Jim’s “out and about with GBRf” thread

[big jim]

Jim, use "continuous shooting" mode, depending on model you will have between 1 and 10 frames per second shooting rate.

It does have that fuction, but only 10 frames which you can set for 2 seconds apart but the problem is if i want to say take a picture of train A then turn around for a picture of train B on a different line

[big jim]

Just to give you an idea of the work going on down the tyne valley this is the site of the landslip looking down from the top!!

 

 

And yes, i had to climb up all the steps from the bottom then another 1/2 mile to the site entrance

[dhjgreen]

It does have that fuction, but only 10 frames which you can set for 2 seconds apart but the problem is if i want to say take a picture of train A then turn around for a picture of train B on a different line

That does not sound right. I know something about cameras, can you tell what model it is and I will research if you like. Along with many on here, I really enjoy your photos and want you to get the best out of your new camera.

[298]

Edit: As an example, when on my way to Norwich on Thursday we passed an empty steel train (I think from somewhere on the continent) with pair of 66s on between Stoke Tunnel and Grantham. A couple of signals behind it was an EC HST. As I don't sign the ECML north of Grantham I can't be sure but I think the next loop to drop the freight into is north of Newark. The HST will be chasing double yellows all the way, even if it stops at Grantham, it'll be back on the tail of the freight before long.

Around 13:30...?

 

The data is still up on Realtime, the steel (Dollands Moor-Scunthorpe) was late but 1N17 (KX-Newcastle) wasn't really held up but made a slow departure from Newark. The freight was looped at Carlton on Trent, there is another on the down at Claypole, south of Newark.

[big jim]

That does not sound right. I know something about cameras, can you tell what model it is and I will research if you like. Along with many on here, I really enjoy your photos and want you to get the best out of your new camera.

Ive looked at various sony photography forums and its something that is mentioned a few times and sony say no its not possible to turn off preview and there are repeated requests from users to update the firmware to allow it but as the camera is 2 years old now i can't see it happening

[dhjgreen]

Ive looked at various sony photography forums and its something that is mentioned a few times and sony say no its not possible to turn off preview and there are repeated requests from users to update the firmware to allow it but as the camera is 2 years old now i can't see it happening

Good luck anyway.

[big jim]

The camera is a sony dsc-hx300 btw

 

Been trying some night time shots this evening with various results, again i'll upload tomorrow

 

Now, keep it simple for me, iso settings, they look to go from 80 to 2000+, whats the best for night time shots, ive been leaving it on 200 or 400, i must add i dont know what iso means!!

[dhjgreen]

The camera is a sony dsc-hx300 btw

 

Been trying some night time shots this evening with various results, again i'll upload tomorrow

 

Now, keep it simple for me, iso settings, they look to go from 80 to 2000+, whats the best for night time shots, ive been leaving it on 200 or 400, i must add i dont know what iso means!!

Higher iso settings mean a higher sensitivity, so less light needed.  There is always a compromise, so the higher you go the more noise you will get (poorer picture quality).  There are some very extended iso settings available on this camera (above 3,200 iso) but I would steer clear as the noise would likely be unbearable unless you got the "must have" shot.

 

I would use the lowest iso that gives you at least 1/30 sec in wide angle and going up with focal length; we used to say  shutter speed equals focal length, but with image stabilisation, which you have, you should get away with shutter speed maybe less that half focal length, experiments needed as it depends on how still you hold the camera, whether you are able to brace it against something for example.(focal length in 35mm equivalent, a rough guide only,again experience is all)

 

Returning to the shot to shot time, I have found these specs

Shutter Response   0.05 secs Wide - Focus / Shutter Response   0.175 secs Full zoom - Focus / Shutter Response   0.2 secs Switch on Time to Taking a Photo   2.2 secs Shot to Shot without Flash   0.9 secs Shot to Shot with Flash   3.1 secs Continuous Shooting - Hi   6.8 fps Continuous Shooting - Lo

2 fps

 

This suggests you do not have to wait for the display to go blank before the next shot (0.9 sec not 2).  I am afraid the continuous shooting modes I found earlier and shown above as up to 6.8 frames per sec are only in VGA format, so very low resolution.

 

 

Edit to say:, What I have written seem straightforward to me but if there is too much information for you then:

 

Higher iso settings mean a higher sensitivity, so less light needed

 

Back to shot to shot time, do you use the eye level viewfinder, or the big lcd as a viewfinder?

Edited February 4, 2016 by dhjgreen

[big jim]

i'll be honest you lost me at the 2nd paragraph!

 

regards holding the camera, night shots are normally with a tripod or resting on something with a timer delay so i dont disturb the camera

 

just had a play using the viewfinder rather than the lcd screen and it still makes you wait for the preview, as soon as it appears you can push the shutter 1/2 way to get rid but that delay is the difference between getting the shot or not which is annoying

 

my daytime pics are always taken on auto setting, dont bother messing with manual etc when light is good but its just the nightime shots i need to get right, i had a go at 'shutter speed priority' shooting, letting the camera set the focal length, some came out well in fading dusk light but once dark the pictures were no good

[Gary H]

i'll be honest you lost me at the 2nd paragraph!

 

Il be honest aswell, Jim in that I'm no expert either but in laymens terms I always understood the ISO rating of the old film camera's we all used to use, as their sensitivity to the amount of light needed for a given exposure time.

When I used to do abit of night time photography, a higher ISO of say '400' meant I could use a faster shutter speed and would then avoid having to use the tripod so much or longer exposure times to get the same (hopefully decent) result. The trade off though, is that the higher ISO figure you use, the more 'noise' you get in the picture, or 'graininess'. (if thats a word!)

Edited February 4, 2016 by Gary H

[dhjgreen]

i'll be honest you lost me at the 2nd paragraph!

regards holding the camera, night shots are normally with a tripod or resting on something with a timer delay so i dont disturb the camera

just had a play using the viewfinder rather than the lcd screen and it still makes you wait for the preview, as soon as it appears you can push the shutter 1/2 way to get rid but that delay is the difference between getting the shot or not which is annoying

my daytime pics are always taken on auto setting, dont bother messing with manual etc when light is good but its just the nightime shots i need to get right, i had a go at 'shutter speed priority' shooting, letting the camera set the focal length, some came out well in fading dusk light but once dark the pictures were no good

For night shots set the camera to P then to iso 2000. My wife uses mainly iA on her Lumix (she is an ex club photographer and it works for her)

[dhjgreen]

quote "just had a play using the viewfinder rather than the lcd screen and it still makes you wait for the preview, as soon as it appears you can push the shutter 1/2 way to get rid but that delay is the difference between getting the shot or not which is annoying"

 

That would the 0.9 sec in the spec and is one of the compromises with a bridge camera, different makes have different compromises so another make would have shorter processing time (that is the delay before the preview appears)

Edited February 5, 2016 by dhjgreen

[big jim]

The fujifilm i replaced had a similar processing time to the sony but had the ability to turn the preview off

 

Took a few pics at kingmoor last night playing about with the setting, luckily the driver with me knew a bit about photography so gave me a few pointers, i'll upload the pics in a bit

[big jim]

well im proper p'd off with this camera, the final straw is ive managed to break off the function wheel 

 

 

must have knocked it getting in the cab last night, felt a bit loose earlier then it snapped off while turning it earlier, a big mistake swapping from the bulletproof fujifilm!

[dhjgreen]

What a pity, is it terminal or do you not care. Sounds like you have given up on it.

[big jim]

i can still turn whats left of the spine but its very soft plastic so i cant see it lasting long, really disheartened with it, anyway here are some pics from it

 

kingmoor, ready to depart for hexham, this is a manual setting

f 5.6, 8 secs, iso200

 

over to hexham where we crossed over to get into the possession, auto setting

f2.8, 2 secs, iso80

 

auto setting again

f3.2, 4 secs, iso80

 

f3.2, 4 secs, iso80

 

and into site where they started unloading the ballast once th railvac had begun its work

 

manual setting 

f8, 10 secs, iso 400

 

manual setting again, bear in mind there was no light at all down there and the light was provided by my headband light!

f8, 30 secs, iso400

 

railvac in action

cant be bothered putting camera settings now!

 

and after rest back to site, a few dusk shots, all auto settings

 

an old tunnel next to the cutting, farnley tunnel apparently

 

66849

 

f5.6, 4 secs, iso100

 

back into hexham to collect my route conductor

 

and back to carlisle

 

 

and that was that, drove home from there, day off today, got a call to work an Im train tonight which i agreed to but then found out its a class 31 which i dont sign, the other downside being its 30mph from carlisle to weaver jn, 120 miles or so

[The Lurker]

that old tunnel is fascinating - I love bits of railway archaeology like that.

[dhjgreen]

Much easier to guide someone face to face, those are incredible pictures. Excellent use of iso and exposure, fantastic. Despite its faults the camera takes good quality pictures, a really good make of lens.

[Fat Controller]

that old tunnel is fascinating - I love bits of railway archaeology like that.

And here's some info about it:-

http://www.forgottenrelics.co.uk/tunnels/gallery/farnleyscar.html

The spoil from the deviation was used in the construction of Tyne Yard, I believe.

What was the 30 mph job, Jim? Ultrasonic test train?

[Gary H]

Nothing wrong with those at all Jim, you should be chuffed with them!!

If its any use, I was always told to use 'P' aswell. I believe it stands for Program.

Let the camera do it all for you!

[brgmini]

well im proper p'd off with this camera, the final straw is ive managed to break off the function wheel 

 

must have knocked it getting in the cab last night, felt a bit loose earlier then it snapped off while turning it earlier, a big mistake swapping from the bulletproof fujifilm!

Oh no !

[big jim]

some from last night, caersws this time

 

sutton bridge

 

 

 

175 passing by

 

newtown

 

llanidloes road crossing

 

 

over to caersws level crossing

 

after the ballast drop it was a change end and back towards shrewsbury, 66078 on the rear tonight

 

 

 

and back to shrewsbury in daylight

 

protection lifted and the other driver took it away to bescot

 

 

 

looking down towards hereford, DB 66 in the loop

 

 

and that was that!

[bobster]

Superb shots there Jim - Are the night shots on Auto ?

 

Cheers, Bob.

[big jim]

the night shots are in manual mode mainly

[Jock67B]

Bl**dy good they are too Jim, shame you're not happy with the unit though!

Kind regards,

Jock.