Indomitable026 Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 And then some! We'll you can't rush a good job - or a bad one What I'm toying with is using a lot of the 'Diesels in the Duchy' equipment such as legs, subframe, lights and Fascias, etc. but the issue is, will I be able to catch the essence of the Inverness Lochgorm Works scene as this will be smaller than envisaged. out with the wallpaper backing paper me thinks hmmmm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmeaden Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Hi Damian Can you pm me your email address and I can send you the updated layouts that I have - these could be a help in assessing the size of the scenic area to model at 7mm? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Hi Damian Can you pm me your email address and I can send you the updated layouts that I have - these could be a help in assessing the size of the scenic area to model at 7mm? How nice is that? Thanks mate - I'll give you a PM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 This is going to be a bad idea.... I've reached a job impasse on 'Diesels' with too many things drying at once. So with a little spare time thoughts have turned to some early works/ trials for the "Highland Sulzers" project. I've been rebuilding an EM point on 'Diesels' and thought I would continue in a similar vain in the senior scale, as I feel fired up in all things track at present. I'm going to do a step by step on a 1 in 8 Scale Seven point build. Don't get me wrong I'm no expert, there are many better track builders out there, but this will be as a minimum how I prefer to build points. Not forgetting that I've not built a point in this scale before. So here goes First up a sheet of glass. If you're not building direct on the base board use something flat to build on. Glass fits this bill. This is an old shelf with polished edges - i.e. not sharp. Next stick down the template. This is a C&L 1 in 8. Use tape and stick round the edges keeping the plan taught and straight. Don't glue the paper down. This means once the point is finished you can cut around the edges and the point can be lifted as one whole. Look at the size of it ! (said the actress to the bishop). Its nearly two feet long Next job - cut sleapers 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Sleepers cut and PVA glue applied to template Place sleepers in position, I've taped down a long ruler to position the sleepers against Ply and bricks to ensure sleepers dry flat to glass.. And this is where a find a flaw in my plan. This job was a fill-in because I'm waiting for glue to dry on DitD! dohh, here we are again. There's only one thing to do in these situations - Pub ! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr2 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Pub? Great idea - but before you go, my first stupid question - what are the sleepers made of? As mentioned on DitD my one & only attempt at point building used plywood, IIRC 1mm thick. What you're using looks like plastic? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Pub? Great idea - but before you go, my first stupid question - what are the sleepers made of? As mentioned on DitD my one & only attempt at point building used plywood, IIRC 1mm thick. What you're using looks like plastic? Yes they are plastic, they're C&L sleepers, in fact all the components are. http://www.finescale.org.uk/ Can I go now? oh and it wasn't a stupid question. ask away, that's what this is about Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Cook Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Yes they are plastic, they're C&L http://www.finescale.org.uk/ Can I go now? Being that they are plastic you can use MEK / Butanone to stick the sleepers down to the paper and they are stuck instantly You could also be making the crossing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Being that they are plastic you can use MEK / Butanone to stick the sleepers down to the paper and they are stuck instantly You could also be making the crossing Don't spoil it, I'm off to the pub Didn't know that MEK/ Butanone sticks to paper ! - nice one 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr2 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Yep, off you go - have one for me too! I haven't really been taking much notice of making track since my last abortive effort. Plastic bits & glue seem a lot more pleasant than trying to solder rail to rivets pushed into plywood sleepers! Ta for the info. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Yep, off you go - have one for me too! I haven't really been taking much notice of making track since my last abortive effort. Plastic bits & glue seem a lot more pleasant than trying to solder rail to rivets pushed into plywood sleepers! Ta for the info. Thanks I'm on my way. Keep watching, you will see it's straight forward - bearing in mind you can buy all of the machined parts, such as the switches and crossings, already done for you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Glue's dry now. Tomorrow we'll get the straight stock rail in.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Right, I've threaded the chairs on the straight stock rail A few things to note; I've put a slight chamfer on the end of the rail with a file. This helps slide the chairs on. I use a knife/ file to push the chairs along the rail - rather than my fingers I've alternated the key positions on the chairs (Optional and always subject to a lot of debate) The gap on the right is for the slide chairs The gaps on the left are for the chairs that hold the adjacent check rail I've positioned the chairs as per the plan The chamfered rail and yes you can see what your doing in this scale Note also on Bullhead rail bulky bit is the running surface at the top. Don't be tempted to put the heavy bit at the bottom 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Now using MEK to glue/ weld the outer two chairs and may be one in the middle ensuring they are dead in line with the plan. Once they are dry you can offer a straight edge up to the side of the rail to ensure its straight and glue the rest of the chairs. The MEK is applied using a small paint brush. Note; don't leave the top off the MEK! you'll either knock it over or it will evaporate before you know it I'm using C & L components on this point because I already had them, but I fully intend using the Exactoscale ones in the future because they have produced all of the different types of chair you find on a point (there's a lot). The C&L product only has two chair types; normal and slide chair. Exactoscale is available from C & L 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Now thread the chairs on the common crossing. This is pre-made from C & L. Of course you can make these, people do and I have but I rather pay for the time saving these days. yes yes I know, I'm expecting a telling off now from Geoff Cook, who is a far better track builder than me - he did the Black Country Blues track..... You won't get all the chairs on right in the 'V', but get as many on as you can in all corners to make sure it will sit down flat. You may have to cut the odd adjoining chair to allow them to fit Half chairs will be added later to fill the gaps. May be I forgot to mention the keys go on the outside of the rail - not the running edge. (This has been the norm for a long time although in the very early days some companies did it the other way round 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Next, offer up the crossing assembly. It is positioned using the plan and roller gauges. As before, once you're happy on the position glue down using MEK applied with the brush. You don't have to move anything to do this, just brush around and over there chairs - it draws its self in. Apply some pressure to the rail top to ensure the chairs are fully down. This shot shows how the roller gauges work. the inner grooves are for locating the check and wing rails 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Cook Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 You sure you have those chairs on correctly, there looks as though one may be wrong on the wing rail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 You sure you have those chairs on correctly, there looks as though one may be wrong on the wing rail Ha ha. Out with the knife. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 I've changed the chair - thanks Geoff The chair was removed by slipping a knife under it to cut it loose of the sleeper and a new one threaded on the right way round - mind fingers ! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Next the first switch - the curved one. These are the slide chairs that switch ride on, I've installed a couple to ensure the switch rail sits at the right height. I've threaded the conventional chairs on to the switch rail. The clamp helps align the two rails This whole lot is now glued down - only the conventional chairs, ensuring the switch sits correctly on the slide chairs The curve of the switch will find its way naturally - being held by the clamp one end and resting against the stock rail at the other. Check that this corresponds with the plan below, if not adjust. Allow to thoroughly dry before removing clamp 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 31, 2013 D, I think you could have done with a few more roller gauges on that point.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 D, I think you could have done with a few more roller gauges on that point.... Oh ok ! They're a bit like cramps (clamps) - you can't have too many... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 31, 2013 Oh ok ! They're a bit like cramps (clamps) - you can't have too many... In that case I'm feeling somewhat inadequate on the roller gauge front - I've only got two Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 31, 2013 Out of interest D, why have you gone for putting in the curved switch next? The majority of the articles I've read do the curved stockrail next. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 31, 2013 Those C&L common crossings really are little works of art Keep up the good works I think they will be upset you calling them 'common'....look quite posh and well finished to me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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