North Bridge Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Hello Folks, I've installed a PSX-1 circuit breaker on my layoutin conjunction with NCE Power Cab. Initially I connected just the board (Input and Output connections only). When I created a short using a coin across the rails, the power cut out as it should and the LED D6 came on. Upon removing the short, after 2 seconds the power was restored - again working exactly as it should. I then decided to pursue the manual reset option, which needs a switch to be connected between terminals J7-1 and J7-2. To test how this would work, I initially just soldered a pair of wires to these connections. I held the bare ends of these together and created a short. The power went off and stayed off, until when I parted the two wires, after which power was restored. Again this is exactly what should happen. I then wired in a 'push-to-break' switch between J7-1 and J7-2. This basically does the above - i.e. J7-1 and J7-2 connected until the button is pressed, which opens the circuit and restores power. Before installing the switch I tested it with a meter to make sure it was indeed of the 'push-to-break' variety. Before I mounted the switch into the baseboard I decided to check how it would work with the switch temporarily connected. I soldered one wire to one terminal of the switch and just held the other in contact with its respective terminal. I then created a short, power went off (D6 illuminated) and stayed off, until I removed the wire and power came back on again. Great, having satisfied myself it was all working as it should, I then positioned the wires through hole in baseboard, attached to switch terminals and secured the switch in place. I then created a short and power went off - again permanently. In fact this proved indeed to be a permanent state of affairs, as when I pushed the switch it still stayed off. I found the only way I could restore power was to switch the DCC off at the mains and then the PSX-1 supplied power once again. I then disconnected the switch and, yes, you've guessed it, when a short is created, power is now not restored after 2 seconds (although circuit between J7-1 and J7-2 is now definitely open). Again, the only way I can now get power to reset is by switching off at the mains and turning on again. I went into programming mode and reset the PSX-1 to factory settings (CV63 to 42) and it still does the same (though this particular function does not appear to have the ability to be controlled by CV settings anyway, so this is perhaps not surprising). I am at a loss to understand how what I have done has altered how the PSX-1 'works' - indeed, I am now wondering if something has gone wrong with it (I was only following the instructions.....). If anyone has had similar problems and/or knows how to fix it, I'd be really interested to hear your suggestions. Many thanks Karl Crowther Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vonzack Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Hi North Bridge, No experience of the PSX-1 myself, but I had been looking to buy one so I 'Read The Manual' a few times. It sounds like your switch isn't operating correctly or isn't staying in an open state for long enough. Hope you get it sorted. Cheers, Mark. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Dicky Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 I have not read the PSX-1 manual, but from your description of the shorting/reset with just bare wires, I would suggest you are using the wrong type of push switch and you should be using a push to make type. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Hi According to the manual... http://dccspecialties.com/products/pdf/man_psx1.pdf Page 4/10 . Your switch or push button needs to be a Push to Break contact type which is what you say you have. (Worth checking that is correct with a mulitmeter on its OHMs range) Check that there is a connection with the PB unoperated across its contacts and it actually breaks when the PB is pressed. I would remove the wires before testing too. If the switch is correct, then check the two wires from the switches tags to the PSX terminals. Its possible one is HR or open circuit? Good luck and hope you're able to resolve ASAP. Edit 24:04 @13:58 to remove typo - 'which' removed and 'with' insert! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Dicky Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 To test how this would work, I initially just soldered a pair of wires to these connections. I held the bare ends of these together and created a short. The power went off and stayed off, until when I parted the two wires, after which power was restored. Again this is exactly what should happen. Having read the manual now, I agree with you Brian that it says use NC (Normally Closed switch) or better known as a push-to-break switch. However, the OP's description above of how he tested it with a couple of wires is simulating a push-to-make action which seems to have given him the desired results. Either there is a typo in the manual or something wrong with the PSX-1. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
North Bridge Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Having read the manual now, I agree with you Brian that it says use NC (Normally Closed switch) or better known as a push-to-break switch. However, the OP's description above of how he tested it with a couple of wires is simulating a push-to-make action which seems to have given him the desired results. Either there is a typo in the manual or something wrong with the PSX-1. Richard Hello everyone, Many thanks for your suggestions. My take on how the PSX-1 works is as follows: As supplied (i.e. no connection between J7-1 and J7-2), when a short occurs and is then removed, the unit restores power after 2 seconds. With these two terminals conencted, when a short is created and then removed, power does not come back on. This only occurs when the jumper between J7-1 and J7-2 is 'removed'. A push to break switch seemed the most elegant solution to this requirement (and I did first check with a meter on Ohms setting that was what I was using). With the switch wired across J7-1 and J7-2, when a short occurs, the circuit is closed and power does not come back on when short removed. When the switch is depressed, the circuit is opened and the power should now come back on after 2 seconds. That issue aside, the fact stil remains that with the switch now disconnected from the PSX-1 and no jumper between J7-1 and J7-2, the power should come back on after 2 seconds when a short is cleared. This was how my PSX-1 worked before I tried the switch, but now it behaves as though there's a jumper between J7-1 and J7-2 when there isn't (i.e. power does not restore with circuit open). I have raised this issue with the manufacturer and they asked me to 'test' the PSX-1 by disconnecting the layout from the output and momentarily creating a short across the output terminals. Again, with no jumper between J7-1 and J7-2, the power still does not come back on when short removed. They also asked me to do this with J7-1 and J7-2 jumpered and then break the connection. Again, the same happens. Basically the only way I can get power to restore after clearing a short is to turn off at the mains. To my mind this indcates that the 'effect' is something to do with the PSX-1. I am waiting for them to come back to me on outome of the above and will report back what they have said. Many thanks once again, Karl Crowther Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted April 26, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 26, 2013 Following your posts with interest. I have fitted a a PSX-4. It generally works well but on somepower districts when there is a short it doent clear unless the section switches withing that power district (layout built for DC originally) are switched off then back on. This is normally when there are more than 2 or 3 sound locos in that power district. The layout has a lot of large USA steam locos whihc has quite a draw and its the reason I wnet for this board. It does work a lot better than the Digitrax PM42 though. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewC Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Have you tried doing a factory reset on the unit? Set cv63 = 42 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chrislhurley Posted April 26, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 26, 2013 Hi Karl Regretably I cannot provide a positivesolution to this thread but if it is any consolation, I have exactly the same problem with the same product. I can only clear a "permanent" short by removing power completely. I understand the point made regarding too much current being drawn but in my case I am n gauge with very little current involved. I had not raised it on the forum as I have been stuggling to provide such a succinct description of the problem as you have now done. I am now following this thread with particular interest. If I can contribute I will as this thread develops but I thought you might like to know that you are not alone! Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
North Bridge Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 Hi Karl Regretably I cannot provide a positivesolution to this thread but if it is any consolation, I have exactly the same problem with the same product. I can only clear a "permanent" short by removing power completely. I understand the point made regarding too much current being drawn but in my case I am n gauge with very little current involved. I had not raised it on the forum as I have been stuggling to provide such a succinct description of the problem as you have now done. I am now following this thread with particular interest. If I can contribute I will as this thread develops but I thought you might like to know that you are not alone! Hi Chris, Interesting that I am not alone. Having discussed with the manufacturer they suspect the unit may be defective. DCC Supplies where I bought mine from are going to replace it under warranty. I am minded not to try the manual reset option on my replacement unit for obvious reasons. The original one worked fine (i.e. short cleared after 2 secs as supplied by facory with J7-1 and J7-2 open), but did not 'revert' to this mode when the switch was removed from the circuit. Thanks to member suggesting try resetting CV63 to 42 which I have done and made no difference. Regards to all who have offered suggestions to my query. Best wishes Karl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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