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farren’s workbench. Page 15 Going modern well mostly


farren
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The gold transfers turned up and have had fun trying to get mainly straight lines to go round curves. Though the sheet comes with some curves which helps and the foot plate. From 3ft it’s passable I think. Also done some work on Bombay however I ordered the wrong sheet so need to order bits for the steps and tender chassis. The name is now straight on the right side of 6230.

 

Looking at what Hornby happens to have produced recently I see they have done 6230. Maybe I should have just sold Lancaster and paid the extra but mine as a single chimney so maybe it was worth the effort. 

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Farren

 

the single lines are probably easier to use a lining pen on.. use a piece of painted plasticard to practice on.. then, when you are happy, put lines on locos.. The cabs are easiest to start on...

 

700563753_ScratchbuiltLYAtlantic(1280x334).jpg.fc4430bd4ffccac4165a3d82bb326155.jpg

 

follow the curves with the pen..

But don't start with a streamlined front end..

 

1395241018_JamiesonStreamlinedDuchess.JPG.5169ff3e209a3008d1b6415089b2a441.JPG

 

baz

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  • RMweb Gold

Well after looking at the BR stock I have I’ve been thinking what to do with it. And well still keeping the LMS going the Diesel will be repainted into BR blue as that’s what I remember as a kid. The first one is a BR class 27 not finished not sure about the yellow might try a different shade. As the blue looks new where’s the yellow looks more faded. Also ordered a couple of new books to help covering the classes 24 to 27 and the 33. 

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  • farren changed the title to farren’s workbench. Going Blue
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Well after having time to look at the blue, I decided it had to be redone it seemed to dark this idea was reinforced with the arrival of a new BR blue class 25/3 Bachmann body. The paint work is done and not to bad considering I’m new to painting blue. The model is half way thorough weathering roof done and the chassis just the body to paint. Aiming for a working look not too weathered. Missed the buffer beam i think it should be black but will check the prototype to make sure. 
 

 

One of the class 08 in the background will be redone too as it’s too dark. 

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After reading another topic in the Bachmann section. I have decided to have a go at throwing together DCC Royal Scot. From a old Mainline Royal Scot body placed on a new Bachmann Jubilee chassis. The first part has gone well the body basically drops on after the removal of the sandbox’s of the body to my surprise. Some work will be needed to make fixings but I can’t see that too hard. I have ordered some Markits Royal Scots wheels hopefully these will drop in. Next job and probably the pain is fitting a gear wheel which fits both the new axle well meshing with the original Bachmann worm gear. Question time, as anyone tried building a Scot this way? And what were the pit falls. Will the connecting rods fit the Markits wheels? And what gear was used? 

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Work so far the Scot has the Markits wheels fitted and the gearing all meshed up and runs. Coupling roads next. Hadn’t bought the wheel weights because wasn’t sure if this would work. But it’s going in the right direction 

 

Amendment 

the gearing was done by first removal of the gear wheel from the original Bachmann driving axle. Both the wheels and the gearing are a tight sprained fit lucky it’s a smaller diameter then the Market 1/8 axles. So once off the whole was opened up to 1/8 or just under buy not going to mad with a remmer just enough so it’s a tight fit on the new axles.
 

The chassis slots for the axles are to narrow and need a little fettling but only on the sides the top (when the loco is the right up) doesn’t need touching as they open up around the top which helps. 

 

one pain is the power wires need to be unsoldered so the keep plate can be removed to allow to work on the axle slots. 
 

 felt washers will be useful as the new wheels will move sideways more then the old Bachmann ones. I fitted felt washers to the front and central axles. Between the wheel back face and the chassis. The central ones to keep the gearing meshed and the front set to stop smashing up the valve gear! Luckily I had a spare set. Also aids with the wheel pickups. 

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Edited by farren
Adding how it was done. Just incase
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Coupling rods anybody got a idea how to use the old Bachmann ones well using the Markits crank pins? Do the deluxe crank pins have a bigger OD or should I bite the bullet and buy a set of etched ones to fit. 

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Well waiting for bits for the Scot I thought I’d carry on back dating my LMS stock slowly getting there down to about ten engines left, full lining a Stanier Mogul is a nightmare all that rivet detail even with the use of decal soft. But at two foot it’s not to bad and at Five feet you can’t see the ruddy lining. The other side still needs to be tackled but that’s another days headache. 

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On 20/09/2021 at 11:25, farren said:

Dose Anyone know how to get rid of the really stupid advertising bar at the top of the page when on this site? It gets in the way of the menu making it unusable. And is really starting to **** me off. I’m using a I Phone 11 if that makes a difference.

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Getting the same issue 

 

Did you get a solution?

 

update

 

Just as I typed the above it appears the issue has been resolved 

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No it’s stopped doing it now, I don’t now if admin have done something, maybe get I touch with them. I did send a message but I can’t say for sure if they got it. But it was starting to be a pain as I’m sure you have come to realise.

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Well the Mogul is finished and weathered though compared to the real engine in the image I used she’s clean. Just needs some lose dust blowing of with the airbrush.

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Manage to run some locomotives today and play with my new controller. And have to admit the Crimson locomotives together looks quite impressive well I like I’m anyway.  Bit of a sucker for the new Hornby Princess Royals…… would ten be over kill? 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well the Royal Scot as had it’s coupling rods finished and is running fine. The wheel weights have been fixed to which helps make the chassis a Scot.. I bought a LMS Mainline tender which A, is cheap and B, the colour marches the body and still look better than a Hornby one no lip. The LMS is Gold but with Black shadowing rather then red like the loco so will probably need to be changed unless I can find information on 6127 ever carrying Black in which case the engine will change the gold and black. Still to do loco body fixings and to build a tender tow bar which will fit to loco chassis. This will cure the slight cab down look which may be noticed.  

The 0-4-0 st 1509 has had some paint work around the cab and coal added to its bunker a Break van as had pickups fitted and wired up for a dcc chip to run the 0-4-0st. A bell and new larger buffers are all so on their way to be fitted to 1509. 
 

image of the finished royal Scot 

 

 

 

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  • farren changed the title to farren’s workbench. Home made DCC Royal Scot page 9
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Well bits turned up for 1509 and are now finished so just needs a dcc chip powerful enough to run her she. She dose run very, credit to the original builder. The Scot as a Zen chip fitted and needs the CVs changing to give her the quality’s of a steam locomotive. Fixing fitted and body now screwed on glazing fitted and some cab doors made from scrap plastic. Just needs LMS sorting out on the opposite side of the tender and she’s all done. 

 

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Decided to do a bit more to the LMS Break down Crain. Cylinders made and fitted none working but the Crain will either be in a sidling or in a train running around the layout so no need for the headache of making working ones. The roof is made of brass to add some weight to help balance the boom I think more is needed. There’s a rudimentary cab detail now fitted  and a crew will be fitted to distract from the lack of full detail. Also loops fitted to the Crain carrier chassis so it can be moved the boom rest wagon still need them added. Bits and bobs of detail still to add and the cables which I have ordered and just needs to arrive. 

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The 1st cable is on I’ll do the jib tomorrow as that’s going to be the hard one. Need to source a hook brass needs the weight to stop the pulley falling upside down to top heavy for what I’m using it for. Rebuilt the Crain bogie from brass to give it better running Qualities. Need to source some transfers Saltley maintenance depot any suggestions welcome. 

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On 15/06/2021 at 20:33, Barry O said:

Farren

 

the single lines are probably easier to use a lining pen on.. use a piece of painted plasticard to practice on.. then, when you are happy, put lines on locos.. The cabs are easiest to start on...

 

700563753_ScratchbuiltLYAtlantic(1280x334).jpg.fc4430bd4ffccac4165a3d82bb326155.jpg

 

follow the curves with the pen..

But don't start with a streamlined front end..

 

1395241018_JamiesonStreamlinedDuchess.JPG.5169ff3e209a3008d1b6415089b2a441.JPG

 

baz

So sorry Baz I’m sure I answered before but doesn't seem to show. 
 

lovley work there, I need to get a better bow pen. I have been going to get one since I did the princess and still haven’t got round to it! I blame Hornby and Bachmann for releasing models I want. 

Edited by farren
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I made a hook out of 3 pieces of sheet metal cut solder and file to shape for the hook as I could not find anyon the web. Things to do need transfers and to buffers which I manage to damage in the build butter fingers. here she is on the layout for now. And the Royal Scot at the head of a small train under test 

 

 

 

 

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Sorry Baz, having dyslexic  moment well 9 hours to be honest! I was wondering most of the day why you where telling me you had bought ‘half bow pen’…. It Haff not half! I’ll go and have a look now. Cheers Baz your layout is looking great by the way. 

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