bluemattersoda Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 It's the maker's mark, haha! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dullsteamer Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 That looks fantastic, although I believe the driver might complain about the visibility out of it due to a God-like fingerprint on the windshield..... Just like the real Waratahs, then. A recurring problem with both Waratahs and Oscars is poor visibility caused by glare, reflections and fogging. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James291277 Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Hi there, they look great. Is there anyway we can order them off you or where to purchase them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluemattersoda Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Hey there James, apologies for the late reply as I've been busy with other projects and with life in general. I've been planning on going back to making the models purchase-ready, but really haven't had the time. I haven't made them available for sale for a few reasons: 1. sourcing the bogies has been difficult, as has sourcing bogie screws. I will be making chassis with rotating bogies to be printed as one object on Shapeways. 2. There are inconsistencies between the details on the cab cars and the trailers - zoom in on the photos to spot them! 3. I still haven't got the motor chassis right - all the spaces are incorrect for mounting the TM03 motor. The motorised chassis in the photos required a lot of cutting and jerry-rigging to make work. 4. I've been working on a Victorian Vlocity train in N scale, but even that's on hold at the moment! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James291277 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks for the update. That's totally understandable with the work that has to go into it. Keep us informed on how your travelling with it. I am sure there are plenty of other people up here in Sydney who will be interested Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluemattersoda Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hi Andrew, I'm considering my options regarding an HO model, but I've had quite a few requests for it so I may consider it. I do this as a hobby, so there's only so much time I have to make models! But I'll definitely let you know on this forum if I do go down that path. Unfortunately I've hit a bit of a snag regarding the N scale train. Tomytec seems to have discontinued their TM03 unit, as well as the similar TM01 and TM02 leaving me without a motor for the train, and making it harder for me to make it purchase ready on Shapeways. Does anyone know any good n scale motorisation options that are modular like the TM03s were? This would be great for making the Waratah purchase ready, and for the V'locity N scale model that I'm making good progress on. Cheers! Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hello Alan Are you aware of these: http://modrail.biz/2014/02/n-scale-tangara-model-multi-length-die-cast-railcar-chassis/ I don't model N scale so I don't have any further info on them or personal experience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Andrew Hollywood Foundry take pains to point out that their 9mm gauge mechs are intended for narrow gauge models in larger scales and are generally too big for use in N scale models. I have had some experience (all good) with a Hollywood Foundry mech in a Sn3.5 diesel loco produced by 3D printing, and spent a lot of time browsing their web site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluemattersoda Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hi all, thanks for all your advice. Marbleup: I've been to modrail's site - i don't think he sells the chassis (chassises?) individually, but rather has developed them for his own products. Andrew: Hollywood foundry looks promising, but the prices are a bit out of my league (I mean, a single motorised bogie would cost more than what it costs to 3D print my carriages)! I've been researching and looking at my options, and given the costs involved to source motorised bogies in Australia, and the unreliable supply from Japan, I've decided to design and make my own system relying heavily on 3D printing. The only catch is the electrical pickups (transferring electricity from rail to wheel to motor). I have an idea of how I would do it, though it involves photo-etching tiny pick up shoes. As the only company in Australia (no names) who offers a hobbyist custom photo-etch service charges upwards of AUD50 for this service, does anyone know any international services which will photo etch copper for me at a reasonable price? Or does anyone know any other electrical supply alternative? Anyway, I'm quite excited about this project - will definitely post some images when I've got more to show! Edit: does anyone know if brass is suitable to use as a conductor? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
69843 Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Two companies that are meant to be very good are PPD and PHD Designs. http://www.ppdltd.com/page_1_intro.html http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.htm Phil is actually on here, and a range of his products are listed under the 'Suppliers and site sponsors' section. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluemattersoda Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Interesting...looks like custom etching attracts quite a premium. Drat. Now investigating 3D printed Brass... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 I don't like your chances of getting 3D printed brass which would be thin enough and springy enough to work as power pickups. Photo etching would be the way to go. You could fit lots on a sheet. You always pay quite a lot for the first sheet, then much cheaper after that. You can also do DIY etching, especially if you don't need half-etched details like fold lines and rivets (as you only need to etch one side for a thin sheet). I did some a while ago using "Press-n-peel" film available from electronics shops. You print your design onto the film with a laser printer and iron it on to the metal. The toner from the laser printer forms the resist for the etching. I wrote an article about it for AMRM (Aust. Model Railway Magazine) about 10 years ago. Phosphor bronze is more commonly used than either brass or copper, due to its springyness. PS You could also consider laser cutting for the power pickups e.g. Ponoko. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluemattersoda Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Cheers Marbleup. I've just checked out Ponoko, and made a test print for the pickups for a quote. >USD$110! While DIY photo etching sounds like the easiest of the solutions, I really don't want to mess around with all the chemicals, especially when it's for such insubstantial parts. I'll keep investigating. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Just to clarify, Etching with Press-N-Peel film only requires one chemical, I.e. the etchant - typically Ferric Chloride. The etching can be done at the kitchen sink or laundry tub and you can get finished parts in an hour or so. Good luck with the 3D printed pickups. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Been there, done that - don't IMHO bother etching pickups in N. Firstly you want phosphor bronze really in order to keep the shape long term. Secondly you can get better results by just buying phosphor bronze wire and shaping it into springy pickups around some kind of metal pin. Less drag and more reliable. I used to do etched coach power pickups but stopped doing them because they were a pain to get to pick up well without dragging and phosphor bronze wire worked better once I'd got the shape right. Also except for the wheels themselves I find soldered fine wire more reliable. The RTR makers try and avoid soldering so the assembly is fast and snap fit - doesn't mean it's the best approach for kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brimbank Models Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Hi Bluemattersoda, I'm surrently doing the Melbourne Suburbans on shapeways. Taits through to X'Traps. Just wondering if you could give me some info on the how you did the glazing. The option I'm currently toying with is 3D printing the window frames for the set as a complete sheet for a single set, then use this to vacuum form the windows from 0.3mm or 0.5 mm clear styrene. The other question I have is what did you use to clean the prints before painting? Cheers Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluemattersoda Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 Hi Bluemattersoda, I'm surrently doing the Melbourne Suburbans on shapeways. Taits through to X'Traps. Just wondering if you could give me some info on the how you did the glazing. The option I'm currently toying with is 3D printing the window frames for the set as a complete sheet for a single set, then use this to vacuum form the windows from 0.3mm or 0.5 mm clear styrene. The other question I have is what did you use to clean the prints before painting? Cheers Dave. Hi Dave, I've printed the windows using Shapeway's transparent detail. It's less detailed than FUD and requires a minimum of 1mm thickness so you need to factor that in. The cab window on the other hand is just FUD - I sanded it down and then sprayed it with gloss I got from Bunnings. This works because FUD is actually transparent or translucent. It isn't transparent when dry because the surface is rough and that scatters light rather than transmit it through the material. Sanding and spraying with (transparent) gloss smooths the surface out and lets light go through it. Usually the FUD can be soaked for a few minutes in water and detergent (dishwashing stuff) and it's ready to paint or primer. Hope that helps Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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