Ian Fisher Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 First off I dont see this as being done in a week! I have been looking for many years for improvements and upgrading options for many of my core locomotives, which originally I perceived as being owned by a certain layout. At the moment an actual layout is very much in part storage. An interested step grandson who is now five, very respectful of all things finescale. He made his exhibition debut at the excellent Slaithwaite EXPO EM 2008 aged nine months, has always had a 90 as a favourite and hes not looked back since! He impressed the Shawplan stand two years ago at Derby with his recognition skills!! Well class 90 wise I have two maybe three triple grey variants with the intention that these will become Freightliner red triangle variants EWS livery will see 90 030 Crewe locomotive works modelled The three celebrity euros are also in store. Also I think I have three EWS-First Scotrail locos A big wake up came with the announcement of a set of parts from PH Designs, collected at Stafford Show this February, they really provided impetus to have a little trial with 90042. The Hornby base model which must be as old as the prototypes, does come with a variety of errors, and some comprise. That said its not that bad a model which if you can accept the roof dome being 90% there, the bodyside grilles not in the right place and being slightly too large...so what can be done to improve the breed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 The loco was bought with rfd general vinyls, these were removed with Brasso pads. The intention is was to retain as much of the original factory finnish. A start has been made to make space for PH Designs improvement kit as described in the very comprehensive instructions included with the parts. The moulded TDM cables have also been pared away to be replaced with a fine etch and wire version. The shell once devoid of its rfd heritage had a coat of kleer and then the Freightliner decals from Fox were added. Another coat of kleer was added to seal that part of the job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 I contacted Peter Harvey some time ago and suggested doing etched bodyside grills. Looking forward to following your thread and doing my when it comes. Question: Will you be soldering the kit or using superglue or both? Jerry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Jerry, The intention is to use solder paste to take care of the brass element of the lights and then the sub assembly will be glued into the bodyshell. With regard to bodyside grilles, this project is about what is or has been available commercially, A1 used to do grilles and probably still feature in their range, not sure if these corrected Hornby's errors or were meant as a direct replacement I wasnt convinced with doing numbers of them. My issue is wanting to retain the factory finnish were that is possible. Replacing grilles if a suitable product were available I would have to really consider if it would greatly improve the look over the entire fleet. Ian Edited for typo in Jeriemah's name! I contacted Peter Harvey some time ago and suggested doing etched bodyside grills. Looking forward to following your thread and doing my when it comes. Question: Will you be soldering the kit or using superglue or both? Jerry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
icn Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 With regard to bodyside grilles, this project is what is or has been available commercially, A1 used to do grilles not sure if these corrected Hornby's errors or were meant as a direct replacement I wasnt convinced with doing numbers of them. My issue is wanting to retain for this project factory finnish were that is possible. Replacing grilles if a suitable product were available I would have to really consider if it would greatly improve the look over the entire fleet. I think I remember someone else replacing the bodyside grilles but not being satisfied with the results, and preferring the original. Another thing I've seen which did look good is replacing the roof grilles wih A1 models grilles (which is what I'll be doing on mine -- but I'm completely stripping + repainting mine so I'm not worried about paint-damage). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 The chassis needs the buffer beam chopping off to allow the new buffer beams to be installed, a quick job. Underframe gubbins seems to compare well with observations and photographs, just maybe lacking in depth. So it was out with the archmiedes drill and the detail chain drilled allowing the original Hornby detail to be beefed up and given its needed third dimension. Still rather raw and in need of a tidy up this is the progress todate. This is the compressor which is being neatened up and one beefed up. I'm thinking of taking a mould from these and cast further to allow the other fleet members to be dealt with hopefully slightly quicker. I think they only need minor tweaks, not bad for a model of its age. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Sniping...I bought some very nice new etch snips from Squires, I love my tools! Well the 90 etch was crying out for them to be trialled. First up to be set free of the etch are the new main mounting for the lights and horn. The tabs are cleaned up with cheap nail files as in the picture. I was given hundreds years ago and they have prooved most useful. Pete has done a great job in creating space for working lights to be fitted. More on that bit later! Simple enough to fold and bend the etch, I use some brass bar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Hi ICN, I have some fine etch mesh in stock....somwhere...the roof though does contain a few challenges. Is it me or is it not recessed enough? I think I remember someone else replacing the bodyside grilles but not being satisfied with the results, and preferring the original. Another thing I've seen which did look good is replacing the roof grilles wih A1 models grilles (which is what I'll be doing on mine -- but I'm completely stripping + repainting mine so I'm not worried about paint-damage). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 WIPAC's are a simple zig zag fold up, done with finger pressure. I will add a cocktail stick through one of the holes to keep things in line, in register and compressed.. It also stops solder flooding areas we dont want things blocking things up. Ill use loads of flux and a mere touch of solder. Simple job then to soak in boiling water to remove flux residue. Then removes tags and unwanted solder. Cocktail sticks now added, just need a final squeeze once fluxed, slight touch with an iron, paste or solder and should be job done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Ian, Would superglue be good enough for the WIPAC lights? Jerry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Jerry, Dont see why not, just I am able to solder so I know that will result in a better finnish and fit for me. Ian Ian, Would superglue be good enough for the WIPAC lights? Jerry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
icn Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Hi ICN, I have some fine etch mesh in stock....somwhere...the roof though does contain a few challenges. Is it me or is it not recessed enough? Hmm, yes it does actually seem like that -- I hadn't noticed before. Not quite sure how to fix that... Googling "class 90 roof" led me to the thread with the improved grilles though (and an improved Pantograph) -- in case that's useful: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/14161-intercity-class-90/ Also never realised you could zig-zag fold the light clusters... I'm now kicking myself for that (I cut each part out individually before trying to glue... Didn't work out well). At least I can now do the other 3 much more easily (I'll be soldering those). Many thanks for showing how you did it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Cav did some excellent work with his 90 in the link above, someways it put me off doing mine somewhat in awe of what he achieved. http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.rugby-parkway.com/images/90roof/roof6.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.rugby-parkway.com/images/90roof/90roofdetail.html&usg=__lX13u1D96RsDrY9d12mzuhJASGI=&h=442&w=590&sz=155&hl=en&start=4&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=ZLbMFzAndnbv8M:&tbnh=101&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dclass%2B90%2Broof%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26tbs%3Disch:1 The link extracted from the thread contains some very useful roof images, which I had rembered seeing before. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Power for this and some other 90's that will be required to work on their tod will see major donations from of course the Bachmann Warship. My examples have been in warm store for many years...shamefully many many years! The chassis chops up relatively easily from memory, a junior hacksaw makes light work of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 I understood this as being chassis related, but alas I had miss read the thread! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69537-Bachmann-warship-mazak-cracking-up/ The gear towers have some issues. As far as I am aware the warship was a new purchase. The original disassembly was carried out years ago. I noticed last night that one of the pivots had actually snapped, but its held captive by the plastic clip. This has been glued back in place. Looking at the other tower, initially I thought something was pinching. A quick check to free any tight spots didn't really give any answers. It would seem the tower under finger pressure would freely turn one way, but then was rather erratic, and for 1/4 of a turn rather stiff. Out with the jewellers screwdriver and a very simple arrangement of gears. It looks like the gears arent held in situ by anything, there appears to no spigots, on checking the other one we have spigots! An odd development considering these units came out the same model that has been barely test run to show such difference in condition. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Out with the iron! Two minutes later.... These boxes go on the back of the wipac cluster, one per group. Working lights should be a doddle. And finally... One aperture has had a run of solder but some flux and the final detailed wipac etch sweated on should take care of it. All in all a pleasent fiddly hour, no burnt fingers, but three charred cocktail sticks..if you have attempted to drill out a wipac, this soldering malarky is a piece of...... happy going to get some zzzzzzz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 Decided to patch spray the lower cab front after removing the moulded TDM cables... Simple enough too mask up. Halfords plastic filler primer is a very near match... Now remove the masking tape...carefully, or in this instance take the whole transfer in one very neat go! Not sure what happened, the tape was only on twenty minutes or so wasnt exactly pressed home, it had been varnished in the last year, you live and learn. Now back to those fine etchings... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meld Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Decided to patch spray the lower cab front after removing the moulded TDM cables... 1369677472639.jpg Now remove the masking tape...carefully, Ian. Best to get a piece of your local rag and tear or cut it to a size that covers most of the loco, then just use masking take on each end. It should save the transfer removal debacle again in future for you. HTH Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 Hi Mike, Debacle over the decal! It really surprised me, how little bite the tape had. Was sick when I realised the whole transfer had lifted as easily as it had...very disappointed! Ta for the logical and safe advice...going to have a cry (again) Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 That also happened to me when I masked my Lima 31, the tape wasn't anything heavy duty, low tack, and when removed took some of the paint off! it happens sadly NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Hi Mike, Debacle over the decal! It really surprised me, how little bite the tape had. Was sick when I realised the whole transfer had lifted as easily as it had...very disappointed! Ta for the logical and safe advice...going to have a cry (again) Ian Something to keep in mind now... I never knew these things happened?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Watching this with interest, good stuff so far. I second the advice about the masking, definitely use as little as possible and use paper/rag for the rest of it. You can tape this on the inside to make it extra secure as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 watching this with interest - i want a Hornby Class 90 but they just look so poor that without detailing it i wouldn't be happy with it. not sure i have your level of skill however Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Hi Sub39h, It really isnt that hard, especially as the parts used so far maybe precise, but they are well etched and just need to be treated with respect! They fit, have been well researched for the model and for me offer a repeatable exercise in being able to do others. Just think its a case of lifting a reasonable model, as long as you can live with a few of the short comings of the base model. I dont think its too bad a base model and well worth seeing what can be done. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 oh i think actually detailing the model wouldn't be too bad, but i don't think i'd be able to paint it to any reasonable standard. but my biggest issue would be haulage capacity i think - i'd want it to pull a full rake of Mk3s or Mk4s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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