Lochinvar Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 My recently-acquired Jinty (weathered version) looks rather good,and fully deserving of being fitted with a DCC decoder (TCS MP1-UK,as recommended elsewhere on this forum). But I've failed at the very first hurdle,viz. removing the body from the chassis. Oddly,the Bachmann instruction leaflet offers no clue as to how this usually straight-forward task is achieved. It looks as if the body retaining screws might be located above the NEM sockets and that these have to be removed to gain access. I've removed a coupling and tried to detach a socket,but as this seems reluctant to move I'm wondering whether I am,in fact,on the right tack. Can anywhere out there advise on how the body is meant to be removed? DR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Free At Last Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Found this http://www.scalefour.org/scalefour/?page_id=2344 and this http://www.Bachmann.co.uk/service/body_removal.php Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lochinvar Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 Found this http://www.scalefour.org/scalefour/?page_id=2344 and this http://www.Bachmann.co.uk/service/body_removal.php Thanks for those pointers,Pete. The body is off now. The removal of the sockets just needed a bit less timidity on my part! DR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarstonVale Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 My recently-acquired Jinty (weathered version) looks rather good,and fully deserving of being fitted with a DCC decoder (TCS MP1-UK,as recommended elsewhere on this forum). But I've failed at the very first hurdle,viz. removing the body from the chassis. Oddly,the Bachmann instruction leaflet offers no clue as to how this usually straight-forward task is achieved. It looks as if the body retaining screws might be located above the NEM sockets and that these have to be removed to gain access. I've removed a coupling and tried to detach a socket,but as this seems reluctant to move I'm wondering whether I am,in fact,on the right tack. Can anywhere out there advise on how the body is meant to be removed? DR Hi DR, I want to install a decoder too, but wanted to check the performance of the TCS decoder you fitted. Does it provide really good slow running as I want to use the Jinty in a yard shunting and I presume the CV's are adjustable? Thanks Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLPG Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Is it best to use a stay live decoder with the jinty? I fitted a standard Hornby one and it is a nightmare over the insulfrogs in the storage sidings. Fine over my SMP sections of the layout Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 I wish you well of trying to get some of the built in ballast weight out to enable a stay alive package to go in. If anyone has mastered the dismantling of the 3FT body do describe please... But is a 'stay-alive' necessary? Have the keeper plate off to adjust the wipers for really positive wheelback contact, and stretch the spring that acts on the middle axle. Cut slight rebates, just 0.5mm, in the keeper plate sides to allow this axle to sink a little more. Lenz standards in my Jinty chassis (I have several powering old whitemetal kit bodies), all reliable even over my dodgier yard track and on outings on insulfrog point layouts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted June 24, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 24, 2013 Both of my Jintys are fine over insulfrogs as long as they are going at a reasonable pace ( a scale 5-10mph). One has the basic Hornby decoder, the other TCS. The TCS is the better choice if you want to start adjusting CVs. It's funny but I have mixed experience of Bachmann 6 coupled locos over insulfrogs - the Jintys are good as is the Standard 4 but Jubilees hesitate and Ivatt 2mts are very bad. The last two will be getting TCS stay alve in due course, mounted in the tender. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 ...Breaking and entering springs to mind, not for the faint hearted... Thanks Paul, I have only casually prodded at one of the spare bodies resulting from the chassis transplants, and concluded it was in the full 'Chinese puzzle' tradition. What I want to do is assess it for possible modding to go on an M7 chassis to represent a Stanier 0-4-4T, a true Frankenloco concept. (I have a dear friend with a serious LMS condition, and presenting him with such a 'better not attempted' might just be the cure...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lochinvar Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Hi DR, I want to install a decoder too, but wanted to check the performance of the TCS decoder you fitted. Does it provide really good slow running as I want to use the Jinty in a yard shunting and I presume the CV's are adjustable? Thanks Paul I'm not well qualified to answer that Paul,as the TCS is my first "high-end" decoder. Until now,I've used only Bachmann and Hornby. But it is descibed as "fully-featured" so I would expect that there are more CVs to be adjusted than I've been accustomed to. I have yet to put the Jinty on the layout proper (NCE Powercab-controlled). It has already become apparent that I can't first test that it runs ok on my test-track (Bachmann A-Z) using the usual default address of 3. It looks as if you have to get it onto the programming track and set an address before starting any running. DR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarstonVale Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 ok no problem, thanks for replying Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Is it best to use a stay live decoder with the jinty? I fitted a standard Hornby one and it is a nightmare over the insulfrogs in the storage sidings. Fine over my SMP sections of the layout I'd swap out the Hornby decoder personally. I fitted around eleven to various locos of mine, and every single one of them broke within a month. I wasn't thrashing them, or running them hard, or doing anything more than playing trains. Nonetheless, I have a 100% failure record with Hornby decoders, which rather speaks to the quality of their wares in this area. Can't speak too much about their abilities through pointwork (they all broke before I got more than an oval set up) but I thought that I should mention this as a sort of warning to others. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 One thing on running quality, the SDJR version I was given saw the screw holding the chassis baseplate near the driven axle loose. However tightening this bound the axle. This was loosened again such that it ran freely with a little side play. I guess the baseplate moulding must just foul the axle. I considered having a fettle, however removing the baseplate fully is a bit of a faff as there is little slack in the pick-up wires connecting to the pcb. I will have to keep an eye on the screw to ensure it stays in place! Tweaking the pick-ups and running in for a few hours this runs fine (with a Hornby decoder). I did buy a stay alive 'plug in' decoder for this loco, however with the socket mounted vertically there was not room to fit this within the boiler. Since making dcc ready, Bachmann have omitted the weight in the smoke box, there may be room for a small stay alive chip and battery to fit in there. Alternatively, a small cell would be almost invisible on the cab floor without having to resort to the removal of weight, (although cab disassembly is a little tricky). N Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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