RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 3, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2013 (edited) I do tend to use long lengths where sensible however when filing and assembling crossings I find the long legths to be a nuisane. Besides you have to isolate the crossing even for DCC so I keep them short. I do not find using easitrac any hindrance to using long lengths. I will take a piece of rail and first work out the chairs needed for any turnout threading these onto the rail. Typically I will lay a crossing first then add a length of easitrac onto the ends. I will then take the piece of stock rail with all the chairs on and thread the end through the easitrac. This hold the two ends to gauge. I can then fix down the stock rail gauging from the crossing. A piece of easitrac on the stock rails at the blade ends helps align that end. I can then slide additional pieces of easitrac on the stock rail at the crossing end. I then add another piece of rail to extend the crossing rail out leaving a slight gap. I then adjust the rails and easitrac to a good line and fix down. In the first picture two cheap brushes can be seen one is for the butanone to fix the chairs the other (marked with a bit of green tape to avoid mixing them up) is used for the special easitrac PVA. I notice your trackwork looks a bit neater than mine. I need more practice in this scale. Don Edited November 3, 2013 by Donw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanLister Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Hi Don Very impressed by your use of plywood sleepers; if you don't mind me asking, did you cut these yourself or buy them ready-cut from somewhere? I've looked but can't find a supplier........ Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted November 4, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2013 The wing rail crossing assembly is the exception when it comes to using long lengths especially, as you say, they have to be isolated for DCC. I make them up using the jigs which are some of the best items that the Association has produced and I have found them pretty near fool-proof in their use and results. How did you get on with producing the sleeper strips, Don? I found this to be the worst part of the process in maintaining a consistent width between lengths. The individual sleepers were ok produced with the help of a NorthWest Shortline Chopper but getting the strips in the first instance nearly drove me to distraction. Even worse when some are 2mm wide and others are 1.7mm wide. Some laser cut strips would be nice but I suspect that, frankly, we can whistle for those. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 I used Templot and Autocad to draw out a set of turnout timbers in a surround a while ago with the intention of getting it laser cut in 0.8mm plywood, but other things got in the way. Don's posting has given me an idea for refining the design a bit more, but it is still way down the list of priorities at the moment. One day..... Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 4, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2013 Hi Don Very impressed by your use of plywood sleepers; if you don't mind me asking, did you cut these yourself or buy them ready-cut from somewhere? I've looked but can't find a supplier........ Ian Ian I bought a largish sheet of 1/32 ply cut a piece about 50mm wide (25ft timbers?) then with a steel rule and a standly knife cut off strips using one of the plastic strips as a guide. Do the first cut lightly ensuring it runs straight and parallel to the edge then the next passes can be heavier and will follow the line of the first. The strips can be cut to legth to match your template (or guide lines if you haven't bother with a template). Something you can do on a board on your lap whilst either not really listening to the TV or sat in the motorhome. Do beware of a small dog sharing the seat with you. I might try 1/64th another time as it should cut easier and need less ballast. Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanLister Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Ian I bought a largish sheet of 1/32 ply cut a piece about 50mm wide (25ft timbers?) then with a steel rule and a standly knife cut off strips using one of the plastic strips as a guide. Do the first cut lightly ensuring it runs straight and parallel to the edge then the next passes can be heavier and will follow the line of the first. The strips can be cut to legth to match your template (or guide lines if you haven't bother with a template). Something you can do on a board on your lap whilst either not really listening to the TV or sat in the motorhome. Do beware of a small dog sharing the seat with you. I might try 1/64th another time as it should cut easier and need less ballast. Don Thanks Don.....I might give that a try; looks good. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium southern42 Posted November 28, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 28, 2013 Hi Don. Just found your thread. Although my interests are in 4mm, SHMBO won a Dapol B17 'Everton' in a crossword competition recently at the N Wales N gauge show. Watching this might give us some encouragement to build something to run it on. Ray. Just popped across to this from your post on GWRd. Thoughts are of doing a micro layout of a small seaside/estuary terminus feeding a 1930s paddle steamer service using a pilot loco - if I can get/make a 2mm paddle steamer for the backscene. Your trackwork looks really inviting. So, I'll be following this thread with interest before I start. Polly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sykes Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Just popped across to this from your post on GWRd. Thoughts are of doing a micro layout of a small seaside/estuary terminus feeding a 1930s paddle steamer service using a pilot loco - if I can get/make a 2mm paddle steamer for the backscene. Your trackwork looks really inviting. So, I'll be following this thread with interest before I start. Polly Langley do a small paddle steamer, based on the Hibernia according to their website. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 29, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 29, 2013 Just popped across to this from your post on GWRd. Thoughts are of doing a micro layout of a small seaside/estuary terminus feeding a 1930s paddle steamer service using a pilot loco - if I can get/make a 2mm paddle steamer for the backscene. Your trackwork looks really inviting. So, I'll be following this thread with interest before I start. Polly I am building it to 2mfs i.e 9.42mm (or thereabouts) gauge. You can use it for N gauge with different gauges. However seeing as Ray is happy with P4 2mfs is no harder. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted January 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2014 Hello Don, I've just been reading up on this thread. I'm impressed that you can work in two so different scales at the same time, with such good results. I'm also amazed that you can cut your own timbers while sharing a seat with a dog in a motorhome. I get distracted if someone even enters the room where I'm working. You must have a steady hand and a cool mind! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2014 Hello Don, I've just been reading up on this thread. I'm impressed that you can work in two so different scales at the same time, with such good results. I'm also amazed that you can cut your own timbers while sharing a seat with a dog in a motorhome. I get distracted if someone even enters the room where I'm working. You must have a steady hand and a cool mind! Mikkel I find the following helps. I use a steel rule and hold it firmly along the line to be cut. I use a stanley knife which has stronger blades than some of the cheaper lookalikes. The first cut is done lightly then repeatedly deeper trying to cut in one go will tend to go off line. If the wood has strong grain make the cut so that the grain will take it towards the rule not away from it. Don 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Hi Don, Just thought I'd pop in here and see what you're up to and I'm very impressed indeed! I thought I must have been the only one mad enough to model in a motorhome - I once took a 5' (ish) plank with 00 track on, to Morocco when travelling with my parents! I take it you will take power from the battery? It does give you pure DC anyway! Keep up the good work! John E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted February 3, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2014 Nice work! will keep an eye on this Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 4, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2014 Nice work! will keep an eye on this Thanks Russ. I did read that you had been tempted by a Class 26 perhaps that layout will be on again. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Just caught up with this thread again Don, what superb trackwork! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popeye Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Don, I would certainly agree that this is a perfectly viable method of building 2mm finescale track. I like to use the longest lengths of rail possible in order to keep the trackwork flowing rather than building it up from smaller sections so I haven't used any of the plastic base easitrac. I have also found that using the cast brass chairs to be useful in conjunction with pcb sleepers at the crossing and also at the closure/switch joint. This means that the crossing and wing rails are bonded and also the switch/closure rails and the stock rails. A couple of photos show this: PICT0187 (Medium).JPG PICT0190 (Medium).JPG Using long lengths of rail makes it much easier to maintain gentle curves through switch and crossing work as can be seen on this illustration: PICT0216 (Medium).JPG The sleepers have been stained which doesn't interfere with the chair/sleeper glue joint; however I'm not sure that I would bother in future as most of the staining colour will disappear under weathering. Good to see you continuing to make progress with the layout, Don. David Not wanting to hijack Don's thread, but a quick question to David, in the photos of your trackwork, where did you source the chairs? I ask as I'm thinking about going the same route as yourself - timber sleepers and code 40 rail - but I can't seem to find rail chairs by the bag full. Back to you Don, keep posting the updates, I like others am watching avidly Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted March 21, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 21, 2014 Not wanting to hijack Don's thread, but a quick question to David, in the photos of your trackwork, where did you source the chairs? I ask as I'm thinking about going the same route as yourself - timber sleepers and code 40 rail - but I can't seem to find rail chairs by the bag full. Andy Hi Andy, The chairs are supplied by the 2mm Scale Association. If you look here: http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/shops.php?shop_num=1 at item 1-181. The sprues were originally supplied for completing turnouts as the ordinary Easitrac mouldings are supplied for plain track. Some of us though have rather taken to the idea of ply sleepers and plastic chairs for building all our track as practiced in other scales. We also have an arrangement with a caster to turn the sprues into the equivalent in cast brass which can be used in conjunction with pcb sleepers at certain strategic locations in turnouts both for strength and passing current between adjacent rails. 1/32nd (0.8mm) ply is the same thickness as 2mm Association pcb sleepers so there is no problem with differences in height. As with other societies you have to be a member to purchase items but if you are modelling 2FS or N then membership will be a great advantage in accessing a large range of products which are not available through normal trade outlets. End of advertisement! :-) David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted March 21, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2014 I also use the same chairs they were intended to be stuck to plastic sleeper strip but can be stuck to other materials such as wood. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popeye Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Don and David, Thank you for the replies, they are very informative. Your track work is fantastic, it flows well, looks the part and is well constructed. I looked at those chairs but couldn't decide how many chairs were included for £2. Looking again you get 96 plain chairs for £2 plus slide chairs and check rail chairs. As I need 1100 sleepers not including points £24 should see enough for plan track. My layout will be built in the near-ish future, I've decided on the plan, designed the baseboard and framing, I'm just working on clearing some stuff out to allow me to start building, oh, and I need to join the 2mm Association! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardW1 Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 The visual impact of your trackwork is very impressive Don, I would be surprised if, at first (or second) view it would be possible to discern the difference betweeun this in 2mmFS and that of other scales. I take my hat off to you. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted March 31, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 31, 2014 The visual impact of your trackwork is very impressive Don, I would be surprised if, at first (or second) view it would be possible to discern the difference betweeun this in 2mmFS and that of other scales. I take my hat off to you. Richard Thankyou Richard. Progress has been a bit slow lately having just moved into a new home but I hope post some more soon. Trying out some chairs in a different material at the moment. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted July 12, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2015 I realise I have neglected to up date this thread. Progress has been rather slow as I have been giving more attention to the 7mm layout and getting started on the garden layout for live steamers. However I have done a bit more trackwork and also done some testing of pinned chairs for the association One thing I found difficult was soldering strips to the crossing in the jig as you cannot see when the solder flows so I tried printing off an extra sheet of the templot and used that to assemble the crossing on. I found that it was easier for me as I could see when the solder flowed and remove the iron. Once done the etra chairs were added and with a dab of expoxy on the underside of the strips which match the sleeper spacing I could set the bit down. I will dig out some more photos. Don 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted July 13, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 13, 2015 A bit further on with the two crossing fixed into place by expoy under the strips and a few easitrac chairs. Incidentally I have used this to stain some 0 gauge timbers I think it should do for 2mm Don 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 22, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2016 I was thinking about electromagnets for the DG couplings and remembered this by Missy. It took some finding so I have put a link in here so I can hopefully find it again. Basically she used 0.27 wire to get 12 ohms required a 35m length wound onto a steel nail. Here is a link http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/220/entry-3957-im-attracted-to-you/ also for inspiration http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/220/entry-3379-a-bit-more-done/ I am currently doing major diy on the new property so modelling is more planning for the future rather than actual Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted April 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 12, 2018 Any more progress on this Don? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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