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class 33


Robert Shrives
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Are you sure?

My two 33/1s that have just arrived, have four holes in each buffer beam but the instruction don't say that the rubbing plates fits in them or any openings but that it "fits between the buffers and is secured by small spots of adhesive" although I'm yet to fit them.

G.

Yes, I quoted the instructions verbatim.

The rubbing plate doesn't line up with any pair of holes and if it did the coupling hook on the buffer beam would foul the fitting.....doh!

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Yes, I quoted the instructions verbatim.

The rubbing plate doesn't line up with any pair of holes and if it did the coupling hook on the buffer beam would foul the fitting.....doh!

 

 

Odd, because the instructions on my two examples do not mention fitting the rubbing plate in to 'holes' or 'openings' and say secure it in place with a dab of adhesive. There must be several versions, so it might be best if you work to these:

 

162702.jpg

 

G.

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Odd, because the instructions on my two examples do not mention fitting the rubbing plate in to 'holes' or 'openings' and say secure it in place with a dab of adhesive. There must be several versions, so it might be best if you work to these:

 

162702.jpg

 

G.

Hi

 

That's what mine say too.

 

Have you noticed the missing yellow paint behind the handrails on the corner of the cabs or is it just my example?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Have you noticed the missing yellow paint behind the handrails on the corner of the cabs or is it just my example?

 

 

Yep, my blue one is like that - looks like I'll need to get the yellow paint and a fine brush out - although the 'dutch' one seems oaky.

 

G.

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Has anyone noticed the bend in the chassis? I've just got a green small yellow panelled model and the chassis on both sides looks out of true :( I already swapped it with the one they picked out as when looking closely there were glue smears around the hand rail holes and what looked like paint overspray that had half heartily been cleaned off, what I'd deem a ' Friday afternoon' job, I just missed that the chassis looks out of true

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Hi. I am new to this forum but wanted to say how pleased I am with my two class 33s ( BR Blue: 1 x 33/0 and 1 x 33/1). Both run smoothly and quietly which is absolute priority for me and they look great. The class 26 and 27 were reasonable models but the 33 has really benefitted from its extended gestation - well done Dapol. Cheers Mark

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and the impossible instructions,

 

Actually my 'dutch' 33/1 does have locating holes for the rubbing/buffing plate so the instructions aren't impossible.

 

135440.jpg

 

However, my blue 33/1 doesn't have holes so it looks like the instructions are mixed up and the reference in my 'dutch' instructions (as pictured earlier) to fitting it with dabs of adhesive applies to the blue one while the instruction you have pictured apply more readily to the 'dutch' one.

 

Also the earlier post by Ogauge83A mentioning a bent chassis is also probably not quite correct. What does quite easily flex is the sole bar/buffer beam frame that is plastic and goes around and under the metal chassis block. If the metal chassis was bent would probably stop the body and bogies fitting in place. However, the plastic frame will straighten itself up if clipped accurately in place in the body - if not it can look bent. And it can be difficult to get the body on properly if the internal wires to the light modules in the body ends are not routed correctly.

 

G.

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That's interesting Grahame looks like there is a third version of the chassis.

Probably not the chassis, but the moulded plastic sole-bar/buffer-beam part. Plus there's obviously several body moulding variants: 33/0, 33/1, original and upgraded exhaust arrangements and those with hi intensity headlights. Seems like Dapol have put a lot in to this loco class.

 

G.

Edited by grahame
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Probably not the chassis, but the moulded plastic sole-bar/buffer-beam part. Plus there's obviously several body moulding variants: 33/0, 33/1, original and upgraded exhaust arrangements and those with hi intensity headlights. Seems like Dapol have put a lot in to this loco class.

G.

Hi

 

I wonder if they have supplied the Blue 33/1 with the wrong solebar / buffer beam.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I took a 33 shaped direct hit to the wallet at Warley over the weekend, one being required for Ropley to represent 33053 which has been a long term resident on the line. 

 

Overall it is a good model, runs nice and smooth out of the box and certainly light years ahead of the old Farish version. That said, for me, the yellow over blue issue on the cab corners does spoil what is otherwise a fine paint finish.

 

I also have cautionary tale for those looking to remove the body to fit a decoder. The instructions suggest simply pulling on the body to release it from the chassis. As soon as I applied even a small amount of pressure, the plastic chassis moulding simply pulled away from the metal part containing the motor leaving that firmly wedged in the body. At the same time, the rather badly soldered together set of resistors and wiring which sits in the fuel tank separated from one of the wires to the circuit board, meaning this now needs to be re-soldered. There was also so much excess wire from the switch controlling the tail lights wedged in the fuel tank, that when everything was reassembled, two of the clips holding the tank in position broke under the pressure, requiring that to be glued back in to place. Finally, if you don't get all of the wires that run down into the tank back in the right place, they can distort the rather flimsy plastic chassis moulding. I've chipped many locos in the past, and never had the number of problems that the 33 has thrown up during the process!

 

For me, a good model is somewhat marred by design which has some trimmed corners, and finishing that with just a little more thought and care could have been perfect, a common theme with most of the other Dapol models I have on the fleet. 

 

Tom. 

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  • 1 month later...

I have to agree with Tom's post above

Re

I have two 33's (both pre ordered) and I've been running them fine on DC for a couple of months now, so was somewhat surprised and disappointed when I chipped them with a CT Elektronik, DCX76D/N decoder only to find that they both became rather poor runners, stalling at every opportunity, plus the lights worked in reverse.

When I reversed the process and put the locos back onto the dc rails they both ran fine again.

Any comments welcome.

 

Also as mentioned in a previous post, I think the back to backs are slightly wider than one would hope for, making these locos a pain to run on hand built track. Every other loco Dapol & GraFra work fine on this track, but both these locos appear to have a wider footprint across the rails.

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