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Hattons DCC Decoders


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  • 10 months later...

Has anyone managed to reprogram one of the Hattons 21-pin chips to resolve the Dapol class 73 headcode lighting problem? I have tried both Dapol's suggestion of increasing CV29 by 1 (34 to 35) and swapping the values of CVs 33 and 34 but the opposite headcode to the direction of travel is always lit.

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Has anyone managed to reprogram one of the Hattons 21-pin chips to resolve the Dapol class 73 headcode lighting problem? I have tried both Dapol's suggestion of increasing CV29 by 1 (34 to 35) and swapping the values of CVs 33 and 34 but the opposite headcode to the direction of travel is always lit.

 

Try by increasing the value of CV29 by 1 as you have done and then change the values of CV 49 from 0 (zero) to 16 and the value of CV 50 from 16 to 0 (zero) - this has worked on the most recent one and has the current Hattons 21 pin decoder fitted.

 

Roger

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Has anyone managed to reprogram one of the Hattons 21-pin chips to resolve the Dapol class 73 headcode lighting problem? I have tried both Dapol's suggestion of increasing CV29 by 1 (34 to 35) and swapping the values of CVs 33 and 34 but the opposite headcode to the direction of travel is always lit.

 

Although I'm not familiar with the Dapol 73 lighting problem, I did find when using Hattons's 21pin/8 pin decoders, that for some reason, CV's 33/34 could only be changed via POM, using a programming track resulted in "error 2"

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  • 8 months later...

Evening folks,

 

I got given 2 of these over the weekend and stuck it into a brand new Heljan class 33 and without changing anything it responded under the default of 3 running wise.

 

However when I went to write a different address it the decoder would not take the instruction, Nor could I change any CV Value either. I also tested them in a Class 73 and the decoders still did not respond to any programming.

 

The Aux 2 is not connected to anything so I imagine these are duff decoders.

 

 

I am Using Dynamis with a probox for the past 7 years with no issues.

 

Anyone have any issues with this on their DCC system?

 

Thanks in Advance.

 

George.

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Although I don't have a Heljan 33 I do use the direct plug 8pin decoders from Hattons and have just the basic Dynamis system. I have had no problems programming any of them. 

Thanks, Looks like a Duff set we got so they will be going back to Hattons.

 

Nothing wrong with the 33, Runs sweet, Baccy Decoder in it. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I have a Hattons 21 pin decoder operating with the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express.

 

Great controller so far, only thing is f2 is designed for the horn and so the controller button has to be held down to keep it on. As any locos I will be running this decoder in will most likely have aux2 connected to some form of lighting, I decided to change this in the CV's to be operated by f3.

 

Seemed simple enough however upon doing this the decoder has become completely unresponsive. Thinking I'd messed up I attempted to set CV 8 to 8 to restore default settings but with no change what so ever. The loco will sit on the main line with all lights on and ignore the controller like it's not there.

 

The address is 3 as new and never changed so I don't think that's wrong...

 

Just to add to the mystery I tried to read the cv values from the programming track and the loco just drove off returning error on the controller! Although I now understand these decoders can't be read?

Aux 2 has been disconnected from the PCB as suggested above with no change...

 

So...can anyone tell me what on earth I've done to it?

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I have a Hattons 21 pin decoder operating with the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express.

 

Great controller so far, only thing is f2 is designed for the horn and so the controller button has to be held down to keep it on. As any locos I will be running this decoder in will most likely have aux2 connected to some form of lighting, I decided to change this in the CV's to be operated by f3.

 

Seemed simple enough however upon doing this the decoder has become completely unresponsive. Thinking I'd messed up I attempted to set CV 8 to 8 to restore default settings but with no change what so ever. The loco will sit on the main line with all lights on and ignore the controller like it's not there.

 

The address is 3 as new and never changed so I don't think that's wrong...

 

Just to add to the mystery I tried to read the cv values from the programming track and the loco just drove off returning error on the controller! Although I now understand these decoders can't be read?

Aux 2 has been disconnected from the PCB as suggested above with no change...

 

So...can anyone tell me what on earth I've done to it?

 

I think you've discovered that "cheap" isn't always going to be reliable or quality.  No CV changes, and certainly not an attempt to reset, should result in an uncontrollable decoder. 

 

Three choices I think;   ( a )  send it back to supplier for replacement or refund,  or  ( b )  leave it on one side for several days (possibly also a night in the fridge, though let it warm up gently to room temp afterwards) and then see if its recovered its marbles and works again,    ( c ) chuck it in the bin and buy something which isn't flakey.

 

 

 

- Nigel

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I think you've discovered that "cheap" isn't always going to be reliable or quality.  No CV changes, and certainly not an attempt to reset, should result in an uncontrollable decoder. 

 

Three choices I think;   ( a )  send it back to supplier for replacement or refund,  or  ( b )  leave it on one side for several days (possibly also a night in the fridge, though let it warm up gently to room temp afterwards) and then see if its recovered its marbles and works again,    ( c ) chuck it in the bin and buy something which isn't flakey.

 

 

 

- Nigel

Thanks Nigel

 

I think you may be right about cheap quality! It seems there is a reoccurring problem with at least one batch that CV8=8 is not resetting to default

 

Night in the fridge seems quite a good idea but I think it'll be going for a trip back to Hattons to see if we can get a possible replacement.

 

This said however I think I would risk buying these again as at such low prices you can almost afford to loose a few

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  • 3 weeks later...

Purchased a multi pack of 10 Hattons 8 PIN decoders last month  - they work out at less than £10 each!

 

All perfect in Hornby locos and Bachmann DMUs.  In fact I had an advance consist running this evening - 2 x Class 105's plus a Class 108; silky smooth on 128 speed steps without any adjustments to CVs.

 

So here's one happy customer!  So much so I am ordering some more..

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  • 2 months later...

I've managed to get decent performance out of these, some loco's a bit better than others. Just put one in a Heljan DPU and it runs good with EMF set to 15.

 

The lights are VERY bright on this model so as anyone managed to get the "lights dimming" function to work?  

 

I have seen that you can turn on flashing lights etc, I've looked at the DCC Zen list of CV's and for the dimming CV's it states "advance" go to website for info, would be great if I could find the advanced info on the site but it don't seem to be there?

 

What I did find, was CV64 on the Zen's controls dimming, the Hattons is set to 64 as per Zen, but changing this value makes no change to the brightness?

Edited by Tankdave
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I've managed to get decent performance out of these, some loco's a bit better than others. Just put one in a Heljan DPU and it runs good with EMF set to 15.

 

The lights are VERY bright on this model so as anyone managed to get the "lights dimming" function to work?  

 

I have seen that you can turn on flashing lights etc, I've looked at the DCC Zen list of CV's and for the dimming CV's it states "advance" go to website for info, would be great if I could find the advanced info on the site but it don't seem to be there?

 

What I did find, was CV64 on the Zen's controls dimming, the Hattons is set to 64 as per Zen, but changing this value makes no change to the brightness?

 

I recently fitted one of these Hatton decoders in a 56 project. I could not find any CV's to dim the lighting. only options for various lighting effects - flashing/strobe/flicker etc .  Changing CV64  makes NO difference to the light brightness either by POM or a programming track.

 

Otherwise the decoder works well, and is good value or money. 

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I emailed Hattons back in March asking which CV to dim lighting.

 

They replied with the following link for CV listing:

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YqZyPr01udcJHhxFi4t1eh3qezPkTHTUxm55aQcvAt0/edit#gid=228350369

 

But I'm still none the wiser!  Still very pleased with the decoders - it's just the lighting which I can't adjust.

 

Anyone else managed to figure it out please?

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  • 1 month later...

I've found them to be very good, the only downside is the 8 pin type that plugs straight in without the wires to the decoder itself from the plug, with the Bachmann class 55, the decoder sits too high up for the body to sit flush so the screws can be fitted. You need to but the decoders with the harness so the plug sits relatively flush so the body can go on correctly.

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I was trying to get one to work in a Heljan class 27,  tried everything but it wont work well. Hattons  sent out a replacement and were really helpful. They work fine in every other loco I've put them in though.

Steve.

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I've found them to be very good, the only downside is the 8 pin type that plugs straight in without the wires to the decoder itself from the plug, with the Bachmann class 55, the decoder sits too high up for the body to sit flush so the screws can be fitted. You need to but the decoders with the harness so the plug sits relatively flush so the body can go on correctly.

I agree about the ones with the harness being more useful.

 

A mate of mine and myself have purchased about 50 of these Hattons decoders between us - mostly 8 pin with harness and some 21 pin direct too.  Not one has failed.

 

They provide very smooth operation and very few locos have needed CV's adjusting.  We like the ones with harness as you can chop the plug off then its really easy to hard wire older locos.

 

Only problem - despite Hattons providing a list, I still cant work out which CV to dim the lights!  Help please anyone?

 

At less then £10 each if you buy the 10 pack, we are well pleased with Hattons decoders..

 

(No connection with the company etc). 

Edited by cravensdmufan
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Only problem - despite Hattons providing a list, I still cant work out which CV to dim the lights!  Help please anyone?

 

 

 

With any hard wired locos - just increase the resistor values until your happy with the light output.  As per my previous post, I could not find a CV that dimmed the lights on 8 pin versions. 

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Only problem - despite Hattons providing a list, I still cant work out which CV to dim the lights!  Help please anyone?
 

The common opinions seem to suggest that these are rebadged DCC Concepts decoders.  Looking up the Zen decoder manuals on DCC Concepts site may help but the ones I saw are very limited.  They do claim a CV advanced manual but I couldn't find it on their site.

If you have access to JMRI,  DecoderPro has a section on Zen decoders which provides some guidance on which CVs do what and easy experimenting. 

It would appear that CV64 with a value range of 1 to 30 controls the constant dimming light level.

CV49 bits 0-3 control Front light effects with one option being "Constant Dimming", bits 4 & 5 controlling when the effect is active.

CV50 bits 0-3 control Rear light effects with one option being "Constant Dimming" bits 4 & 5 controlling when the effect is active.

CV49 and CV50 are both annotated with a provision that the exact CV values are not documented and thus need to be ratified.

Best guess would be Bits 0-3 set to 1111 and bits 4-5 set to 11 (Decimal 63) would provide constant dimming in both travel directions. :dontknow:

 

CFJ

 

Edited by NinOz
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With any hard wired locos - just increase the resistor values until your happy with the light output.  As per my previous post, I could not find a CV that dimmed the lights on 8 pin versions. 

Tractor, many thanks for your advice.

 

But how do you increase the resistor values please?  Forgive me if this is a silly question, but electrics are certainly not my forte!

 

Many thanks.

 

CDF

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Tractor, many thanks for your advice.

 

But how do you increase the resistor values please?  Forgive me if this is a silly question, but electrics are certainly not my forte!

 

Many thanks.

 

CDF

 

CDF

 

Assuming your hard wiring, an in-line resistor will be required on each decoder function output, either a 680ohm or a 1Kohm resistor are a good starting values, if the lights are still too bright, change the resistor for a higher value one which will dim the light output, ie try 2.2K ohm . White LED''s tend to be far brighter than Red or Yellow ones, so normally require a higher value resistor.

With factory fit lighting, if the decoder has no option for dimming, and the lights are too bright, an additional small value resistor could be used in-line on each lighting circuit to dim them.

 

HTH

Ken

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