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I see that one of the vehicles is 51321 - which became the only 118 vehicle preserved...

 

 

Indeed

 

P464 wasn't my first choice as I couldn't find that many pictures of it online, it just so happened that Railtec do a sheet of Midland DMU transfers which included the correct numbers for this set, all I had to do was carefully cut off the M prefix as supplied with the transfer and replace it with a W from another sheet.

 

From the researching pictures on the internet P464 was one of the earlier sets transferred away from Laira, First to Bristol becoming B464 and later to Tyseley becoming T316 with one car managing to evade the cutters torch.

 

Dale

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Quick update.

 

I have received my second control panel back from my carpenter friend, the frame of which has been assembled and had a couple of coats of white paint.

 

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As mentioned previously I modified the design of the second panel to include a 4 inch deep back piece to protect the bottoms of the breakout boards, I have reused the original 3 inch back piece of the first panel as the front piece of the second one, and while I had the paint out I have carefully masked up the the first panel and given the whole timber frame another lick of paint as well.

 

No progress on the ground signals but I have worked out a relatively simple circuit which will mean I can switch the danger signal between the original red/white type and the modern red/red type, I will be making up a small PCB local to each signal mounted beneath the board with all the resistors and the required PCB mounted switch (awaiting delivery from eBay).

 

Dale

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Some success with the ground signals after much trial and error and forgetting to factor in that electricity travels in both directions unless you use a diode.

 

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New style 'On'

 

And flick the switch for

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Old style 'On'

 

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I shall spare your eyes the sight of the other side of this board

White LEDs use 2K2 (blue) 2K2 resistors and reds use 1K

 

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Quick circuit diagram literally on the back of an envelope.

 

I encountered problems making the circuit board because I wasn't using diodes and as such the power was going all sorts of places it wasn't supposed to and illuminating all the LEDs! 

 

3 Diodes are required for each board so I have ordered some more as I only had 5 in stock.

 

Dale

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Further update on the ground signals from my day off which was Wednesday

 

Unfortunately I am down to 4 ground signals as one one of the PCB boards I made I failed to fully cut through one of the copper tracks across one of the resistors so I have blown one of the LEDs. 

 

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Parcels bay.

 

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Drivers view, I thought the signal was slightly obscured by the end of the platform but couldn't have got it any closer to the track.

 

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EMU carriage sidings.

 

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Engine spur.

 

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And back to the Parcel bay, I worked out with 2 MK1 BGs that I could afford to lose 1 edging slab worth of platform so out came the razor saw, much better sighting for drivers, but then if there are 2 BGs in the platform then any engine coming to remove them will be ahead of the signal anyway.

 

The PCBs for the ground signals are secured to the underside of the boards with track pins and will be wired into the layout in due course.

 

Next thoughts will turn to the backscenes, control panel and road over bridge.

 

Dale

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Would not have thought that any sighting committee would accept the driver's view of the "Dodd" by the platform.

 

Have you thought about putting it on a short pole? This isn't intended as a carping criticism but as a possible solution.

 

Although every-one calls them ground signals every Handbook that I was issued with before retirement called them "position light signals" and stated 'these .... are normally positioned at ground level'

My italics.

 

Hope that this helps.

 

Ian T

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Would not have thought that any sighting committee would accept the driver's view of the "Dodd" by the platform.

 

Have you thought about putting it on a short pole? This isn't intended as a carping criticism but as a possible solution.

 

Although every-one calls them ground signals every Handbook that I was issued with before retirement called them "position light signals" and stated 'these .... are normally positioned at ground level'

My italics.

 

Hope that this helps.

 

Ian T

 

 

Hi Ian,

 

Thanks for your comments, sorry for delayed reply.

 

I agree and I'm still not happy with the positioning of that signal, as supplied there the signals have a high setting and a low setting however the difference between them is only about 5mm, it just depends which side of the square notch in the PCB you attach the plastic barrel to (see pictures in previous posts). I suspect my options are to either extend the platform passed the signal (I happen to have an off-cut just the right length sat spare) and mount the signal on the platform or build some some little foundation that raises the signal head up above platform level but it would have to be something that the barrel fits into which is 10mm diameter.

 

Dale

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You could move the signal to the right hand side. It's not uncommon on the real railway for them to be so.

 

 

That's a good shout.

 

The only one I know of locally to me is a Limit of Shunt located between Blackboy Tunnel and Exmouth Junction on the Up Waterloo line just prior to the tunnel mouth.

 

I'd probably have to shorten the 3rd rail in the bay platform by 1 insulator and maybe provide a short length on the opposite side.

 

Dale

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Evening

 

I've had a a good couple of hours on the layout today.

 

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First up I have moved the parcel platform position light over to the right hand side of the track for better sighting, this required the adjacent length of 3rd rail to be shortened.

I have also extended the platform with an of cut piece I had lying on the side, weathered to match the rest, this also acts to cover most of the 10mm hole from the Signal's original position.

 

I have also made a start on the station back scene (on the inside of the layout for exhibition use) I may also fix something to the wall on the opposite side but I haven't told the folks that yet!

 

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Unfortunately the sheet of ply I bought for the job was not the straightest, I think I had the last 3 4x2 sheets Trago Mills had in stock at the time and all efforts to straighten them by placing heavy things on top of them hasn't had much effect.

 

Also visible in the background are my pair of girder bridge sides made from Wills Kits spanning 5 of the 7 tracks.

 

Dale

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A small break away from the layout for a rolling stock project.

 

A problem which arose about 12 months when I ran one of my class 73s off one of the cassettes was that the bottom of the bogie frame came into contact with the top of the 3rd rail causing the wheels to lift off the running rail and the loco to grind to a halt.

 

I have 8 class 73s some of Lima origins and some of the later Hornby re-issue however all of my Lima locos have had their chassis upgraded to the later Hornby type.

 

A little bit of research has revealed that the wheelsets fitted by Hornby are too small, 10mm in scale which equates to 760mm full size. A real class 73 has a wheel diameter of 1010mm which in OO scale is just under 13.3mm so about 25% too small.

 

The problem with the Hornby motor bogie means one cannot simply exchange the wheels for larger ones as the shape of the motor casing only just clears the existing wheel and so prevents them from clipping into place. Instead of modifying the existing motor casing to accommodate the larger wheels I have chosen to replace the motor bogie housing with one intended for a 4VEP which does run larger wheels. The next problem I faced was the wheels themselves as a search of the internet showed that wheels for the VEP are rather expensive (£8-9 per pair of axles - powered or unpowered version)

 

Looking for a cheaper solution I trawled through some of the other classes of locos Hornby produces with a similar drive train, happily I found the answer in the class 92. A quick email to Hornby asking about the wheel diameter of the 92 gave me the answer 12.5mm, still a bit under scale but big enough to give me the ride height increase I had been looking for to clear the 3rd rail.

 

Parts used so far -

X6310 4VEP motor bogie housing £1.99 each from Lendons of Cardiff

x6398 Class 92 Motor bogie Wheelsets £2.99 per pack direct from Hornby*

x6399 Class 92 Dummy bogie Wheelsets £2.99 per pack direct from Hornby

 

*9 out of 13 packs ordered (5 for my friend Simon) came without traction tyres fitted so 2 packs of those have also been ordered from eBay

 

So each pack of X6398 provides 3 axles for each 73 and each pack of X6399 provides the 4th axle for 3 locos.

 

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Modified motor bogie. I carefully unsoldered the capacitor legs from the motor and then using a chisel blade scalpel cut the pickup away from the housing, leaving it attached to the wire as these were reused on the replacements. It was also necessary to reuse the gears and shafts from inside the old housing as these parts are not supplied with the new ones. Once this had all been swapped over to the new housing the pickups were stuck on with a small blob of superglue gel and clamped in place for about 15 minutes.

 

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Left - New

Right - Old

 

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First completed loco of 8 sat happily over 3rd rail without touching it.

 

One slight refinement to make at the non motored end is to file a small amount of the bogie frame as the larger flanges rub on them ever so slightly causing unwanted friction but other than that they are just a straight swap with old ones.

 

Dale

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Afternoon, a long, long overdue update.

 

 

Having previously fitted 2 backscene boards I installed the third one about 6 weeks ago, then went on holiday for a week! With the layout getting no attention until Saturday.

 

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Third board in place hiding the cassette fiddle yard.

 

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Length of timber wedged in place while I fixed it from underneath. That was the day before holiday, I never actually screwed the board in place until yesterday.

 

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Forwards to Saturday I had had it in mind that to do scenic work I was going to have to take the layout down and turn it around

 

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Dodgy panoramic view made by stitching 3 pictures together on paint!

 

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Yesterday I put some vague plans down for a scenic break in the form of a road bridge leading to a station building onto the cork.

 

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Onwards to today plenty of woodwork cutting out pieces for the corner.

 

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With that all screwed together a quick door test with the corner board temporarily back in its normal position - all good

 

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Finished job, the length of timber over the tunnel hole also gives me a height of 90mm to work from for all the other structures to go over the track in this area.

 

Next job likely to be a piece of ply covering this area as a floor of the station entrance and footbridge as well as the road.

 

Dale

 

 

 

 

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Further work today

 

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Legs and foundations for a road and station building making a nice scenic break

 

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Slightly revised/more detailed plans of what will be going on it.

 

Dale

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Evening,

 

A couple of jobs from the last 48 hours

 

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I have bought a retaining wall from Model Railway Scenery on eBay which will go along here in front of the cassette fiddle yard, the wall is 110mm tall so I intended to cut the ply off above the line and set it back by 15-20mm to give space for a low relief building of some sort on top.

 

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I also bought some lightweight pine stripwood which I have used to straighten up the top edges of the previously very wonky backscenes, not perfect but considerably better, sorry about blurry picture.

 

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Then out came a pot of sky blue paint, Certainly brightens the layout up a bit and that was only the first coat, its had another since. however its unlikely to be the final finish, I'm tempted by the Guagemaster sky, but its a good base colour in the event of whatever the finished article is being damaged and I'm also told backscenes stick better to painted wood than unpainted.

 

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Completed alteration mentioned at the top again with lengths of pine stripwood to straighten the ply - the wall I bought actually has an indicated road level which is at 90mm and detailing on the rear side above the road level so I revised my original plan and cut the ply off at 90mm.

 

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And the first section of wall itself taking shape, believe it or not this is actually the first card kit I've ever built so I've chucked myself right in at the deep end, but I have to say its been a pleasure to build and the instructions are reasonably easy to follow, there are still a few finishing touches required like the capping stones along the top, thinking about it I might be best putting those on after its been fixed in position.

 

Dale

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Good Evening.

 

Another long, long overdue update on Brixington Town

 

I've not done a huge amount since the last update but what follows are a few minor jobs carried out over the last 6-8 weeks

 

 

 

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The brick wall has gone up here held in place while the glue dried with one of the 4ft cassettes and some bungee chords. 

 

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Finished job, I notice since fixing in place parts of the wall have started to warp or come unglued so I will have to address this in due course.

 

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As part of the ongoing battle with the warped backscene boards I have added uprights at each end, as they were leaning forwards slightly, with a loose pin hinge to align the joints, on the centre board I have had to add a secondary baton along the top edge to counteract a bow in the middle of it, I may yet add further uprights in the middle.

 

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Finally, just visible left of shot, I have screwed a length of timber down to be a foundation for the top surface of each platform island.

 

I have also come up with a revised plan for the back edge of platform 3, my original idea was a fairly narrow platform leaving a large space behind to fill, for which I was thinking concrete hard-standing with some sort of Pway or S&T department stores in an old shipping container, However now I plan to make the platform much wider roughly to where I have placed the edging in the photo but instead of using platform edging I will use some brick effect plasticard, giving the impression that the platform originally followed the track behind it but has been modified as operational needs changed at some point in history.

 

Buildings wise I am on the lookout for ideas and inspiration for a platform building to run along the back wall to be approx 800-900mm in length, I have downloaded Scalescenes CLASP building kit which I intend to build as a low relief Red Star Parcels office, I wanted to put it behind the loading bay platform but the platform is a little narrow for this unless of course I build it zero relief flat to the backscene. All ideas at the moment subject to change!

 

Dale

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Afternoon,

 

Quick job this morning using the Brick effect plasticard sheet

 

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The back edge of platform 3, Also a piece placed loosely across the end of the parcel platform to be fixed properly in due course.

 

Further thoughts on my CLASP building after reading it's instructions, it is recommended to print the various sections on sticky label paper so I have ordered some (single A4 sized label to a sheet) it also says they should be mounted on clear film for the many windows such a building has, I have decided to take this a step further and getting a bit of depth in the process by sticking the building onto a piece of clear perspex.

 

I wasn't happy with the planks of wood I filled the platforms with as they are slightly too tall so I am going to have to plane them down a bit.

 

Annual leave next week so I might actually get some of this done!

 

Dale

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Afternoon.

 

I have spent a couple of hours after lunch today designing my CLASP building from the Scalescenes kit.

 

Printed in black and white on plain paper just to see how the kit went together.

 

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I may have gone a bit OTT making a 3D canopy on what is just a test build, at least I didn't cut the windows out - all 57 of them! (Everywhere it says 'Cut Out') I'll save that job for the final build.

 

I have opted for a 2 story design featuring what will be a Red Star Parcels office/storage area downstairs and a Traincrew depot/messroom upstairs accessed by the door on the far left meaning I will require an external staircase of sorts - similar to the type used to access a first floor Portacabin.

 

The structure totals 365mm in length, is just over 80mm tall and the canopy is 30mm deep and will be assembled as previously mentioned on a piece of clear perspex which gives 4-5mm depth. I may look at some sort of interior detail which I could affix to the rear of the perspex.

 

Bring modular of course the final design may differ slightly as the kit has various options including a full height concrete panel which covers the small window at the top of some of the panels.

 

Dale

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Afternoon,

 

I've run into a bit of a quandary with my CLASP building.

 

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Here it is plonked into place.

 

My first thought was that I wanted to get the canopy fully over the narrower part of the platform which as you can see it isn't quite, so I thought about moving the whole building along a bit or redesigning it so that the doorway to the Red Star office was 1 module further to the right. Then it occurred to me that the entrance to the Red Star office would be a public area so perhaps it would be best if the door was the very first module in the wider part of the platform, with a short canopy just over the doorway with some sort of security fence with a gate to prevent public access beyond it.

 

So I decided to have a bit of redesign (on MS Paint this time rather than building another model)

 

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I think that's better, access to traincrew facilities are still via the first floor door but this will be located by the wider part of the platform so I could have a staircase coming straight out rather than one in line with the building.

 

Dale

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Here's a slightly revised version having looked at the windows supplied in the kit I realised that my previous effort didn't quite match and I've added more windows upstairs above the front doors but taken some away from the fifth module on both floors for a larger parcel storage area downstairs and traincrew facilities such as toilets or a canteen upstairs.

 

post-11362-0-91749100-1540659246_thumb.jpg

 

Dale

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Afternoon,

 

Long time no update again, here's a couple of ideas floating in my head.

 

I saw on someone else's Layout thread (I'm afraid I forget who's exactly) but they had used 1.5mm ply as a top surface for platforms with Peco sides, so I have ordered some.

 

Also while at a Swapmeet in Newton Abbot this morning I saw a pair of Peco subway staircases and wondered if I could modify them to be used as the staircases from my platforms up to the Station Building and footbridge level, £3 the pair!

 

Each individual staircase is a 19mm climb with 8 steps and I have 76mm to climb which is rather convenient multiple of 19! I think I will graft 2 staircases together leaving a landing between each pair. Something I can be getting on with indoors in the warm!

 

Dale

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Good Afternoon.

 

So just over 12 months has passed since my last post on this thread, but don't worry you haven't missed anything! But changes are afoot.

 

In August of 2019 I turned the ripe old age of 30 and until then I had been living at home with my Mother and her partner, who kindly allowed me to build Brixington Town in their garage, at the family home of 15 years in Exmouth.

 

As of Yesterday I am now a homeowner, having bought myself a 50% stake in a newly built property on the outskirts of Exeter through a Shared ownership scheme. The house is a 3 bedroom townhouse over 3 floors - no prizes for guessing what comes next - on the top floor is a large room in which I intend to house my Layout measuring approximately 22ft by 8ft.

 

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This has required me to do some headscratching, this room is longer than the garage whilst being broadly the same width.

 

Truth be told there are things on Brixington Town which I've never been happy with, primarily the brown ballast I have used - as it was free - and despite my attempts to lighten it with some grey it wasn't enough, then there are large patches of it that haven't stuck down very well.  My other major bugbear was my overambitious attempt to maximise the fiddleyard capacity in the limited space which has lead to the corners being far too sharp having elected to place the scissors crossings across the ends of the layout, this has lead to numerous derailments if taken at any speed.

 

 

So.....

 

Once I've moved and settled into my new home I have decided I am going to totally redesign the Layout to take advantage of the extra space.

 

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Here is my first draft plan by no means final, I should have enough room to make a continuous curve at either end. Being as I now have a door to the side of the room rather than the up-and-over garage door to contend with I will either make some sort of drawbridge the flips up out of the way of the door or simply remove the door from the hinges and store it elsewhere!

I don't know at this stage how much of the existing layout will be reusable (at least the name!) until I've fully moved in, any work on the layout will be several months away as first priority is obviously to make the house habitable, but I will continue to post updates on here when I have some.

 

Dale

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Hi Dale,

Congratulations on the new house, and for getting the priorities right. I think I had mentally measured up for baseboards in ours before we even had sofas or a table! Looks like a good space and with plenty of electrical sockets, and being a new build there is a fairly good chance the floor will be flat and level. Enjoy your first Christmas there, looking forward to more in the new year.

Rich

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1 hour ago, Rich Papper said:

Hi Dale,

Congratulations on the new house, and for getting the priorities right. I think I had mentally measured up for baseboards in ours before we even had sofas or a table! Looks like a good space and with plenty of electrical sockets, and being a new build there is a fairly good chance the floor will be flat and level. Enjoy your first Christmas there, looking forward to more in the new year.

Rich

 

Many Thanks Rich.

 

I've not actually moved in yet, I am actually spending Christmas day with the folks at my sister's house - she too has recently bought a shared ownership.

 

I reckon I will be moving in mid-ish January as the house doesn't come with carpets only Lino in the kitchen and Bathrooms. Nor do I don't own an awful lot of furniture so I've been slowly acquiring bits and bobs form family and friends plus a few bargains from the local tip! I've also gained a sofa this week that was destined for Sister's but proved too large to manoeuvre between the front door and the adjacent living room door.  No such problem getting it in my house straight in didn't even touch the sides!

 

Dale

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Good Evening.

 

Just a quick message to say that I moved into my new house 3 weeks ago and have spent much of my spare time since moving all of my possessions in  with me. The final piece of the puzzle today - the layout.

 

492.jpg.581ea97683c1a082cd4f7f6e8d894855.jpg One empty Garage!

 

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Layout piled up in the new room. I am very impressed that the never before used pieces of Ply to stack the boards face to face have stood up to the move as these are only thin 5mm Ply so I was doubting that they would be strong enough for the job.

 

In case you were wondering what the thing stood up middle right of shot is.

 

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Here it is the right way up. 

 

I'd always been looking for more space efficient ways to store my stock, especially HST, rakes of coaches and wagons. I already had 6 10 litre Really Useful Boxes each of which could hold 12 vehicles with a few foam packing pieces in between. The biggest problem was with Mk3 coaches which are slightly longer than the width of the box, then I worked out that given a 2+8 HST is less than 12 vehicles I could angle them slightly to fit them in using foam insulation board wrapped in parcel tape to fill the gaps in.

 

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18 boxes later - the frame fitting inside the layout legs with mm to spare.

 

 

Further thinking on the future of the layout - I've come to the conclusion that the chances of me actually going to an exhibition is very small as getting the appropriate time off work to prepare and attend a 2 1/2 day exhibition is quite difficult and being in this part of the Westcountry kind of limits the number of shows within a reasonable driving distance. So on that basis I have decided that I am going to start again from scratch with a new layout fixed in the room while reusing as much as possible from the existing layout.

 

I can't start immediately as I am awaiting a delivery of carpet tiles for the room from a work colleague but with no current timescale for their arrival.

 

 

Dale 

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Even though you don’t intend to exhibit, I suggest you make it portable, or at least separable.  I’ve done that for the past 30 years and it sure beats soldering upside down underneath a fixed board.

Paul.

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