DJH class 14

[brian daniels]

Digging from the inner reaches of my brain, was it the early 14's when first built had double brake shoes?

[Lord Flashheart]

Hi guys!, have been following this thread since it started as ive got 1 to build, as it, ll be my first working O gauge loco (only done a static JLTRT 50 so far) it, ll be great to see it made to work with whats supplied, keep up the good work.

[Jon Fitness]

Hi guys!, have been following this thread since it started as ive got 1 to build, as it, ll be my first working O gauge loco (only done a static JLTRT 50 so far) it, ll be great to see it made to work with whats supplied, keep up the good work.

Closely followed by motorising the 50? Go on, you know you want to!

JF

[Lord Flashheart]

Closely followed by motorising the 50? Go on, you know you want to! :sungum:JF

I, d certainly like at somepoint, the ABC Gears motor unit is the one I, d prefer.

[malc125]

All body castings are now soldered together. There are issues with the castings. The cab casting and both bonnets are too narrow compared to the footplate, when photos of the RTR is compared to the real thing, the cab side is almost at the edge of the footplate, but the accessory boxes are the correct width for the real loco. Hence to get a straight line down the side, material had to be removed from the accessory boxes. Not great for a beginners kit.

 

 

 

 

Buffer beam completed, oval buffers have a pin and slot arrangement to prevent them rotating but the thread on the buffers is not long enough to get the pin to engage in the slot when the nut is fully tightened. So I made 2mm washers felt it was  easier that cutting longer threads

 

 

 

[malc125]

Been watching paint dry. Chassis now disassembled, painted and reassembled. running very nicely

 

Foot plate painted, then found coupling hooks foul the chassis and obstruct the bolts holes used to attach footplate to chassis. So coupling hooks need to be fitted once everything else is asembled. I prefer to be able to disassemble my locos once complete with out having to remove the coupling hooks each time  so modified chassis and changed position of bolts

Body has been painted and I have to decide whether to paint the window surrounds or to leave them as bare nickel silver then attach them ready for varnish and transfers

 

 

[Izzy]

Sorry it's rather late in the day but would you mind if a I made a few comments?

 

I totally agree on the advantage of some form of compensation ( I haven't built a 'solid' chassis in any scale/gauge for around 35 years), and generally on jointing coupling rods. However, in this particular case the mixture of fully jointed rods and vertical axle movement could cause problems due to the presence of the jack shaft.  I would suggest that the rod portion between the second and fourth drivers, that involving the jack shaft, should be one piece, treating this portion as an 0-4-0, with just a joint between the first/second drivers, as effectively in reality the jack shaft is just along for the ride. As there is no wheel touching the rail, this gets all it's momentum from the coupling rod alone (no frictional traction input), and in my experience this can lead to 'catching' at each rods mid-point revolution at times if jointed rods or VAM are involved. If you were to fit beams/allow axle movement on any of the driven axles, then you would also have to allow movement to the jack shaft axle as well, so it doesn't impede movement of the other axles, or over-size the coupling rod crankpin hole for it, and just let it do it's own thing.

 

Although plastic worms/gears aren't new, I'm surprised they feature in an O gauge kit that's bound to be fairly heavy as it's W/M. More that the ratio appears to be quite low, (25/30-1?). I would have thought that, given the nature of the loco, and the wheel size, at least 40 or 50-1 would have been more appropriate even though the Mashima 1833 is reasonably slow running. But then I like slow running, and fit high ratio (80-1) D/R gearboxes to all my personal 7mm locos.

 

With regard to the mentioned G5, I have made the connoisseur kit, and like all those makers kits, both loco and rolling stock, assembled well. The key with that is to give the bogie split axle current collection.

 

Hope these comments might help someone.

 

Izzy

[81A Oldoak]

Sorry it's rather late in the day but would you mind if a I made a few comments?

 

I totally agree on the advantage of some form of compensation ( I haven't built a 'solid' chassis in any scale/gauge for around 35 years), and generally on jointing coupling rods. However, in this particular case the mixture of fully jointed rods and vertical axle movement could cause problems due to the presence of the jack shaft.  I would suggest that the rod portion between the second and fourth drivers, that involving the jack shaft, should be one piece, treating this portion as an 0-4-0, with just a joint between the first/second drivers, as effectively in reality the jack shaft is just along for the ride. As there is no wheel touching the rail, this gets all it's momentum from the coupling rod alone (no frictional traction input), and in my experience this can lead to 'catching' at each rods mid-point revolution at times if jointed rods or VAM are involved. If you were to fit beams/allow axle movement on any of the driven axles, then you would also have to allow movement to the jack shaft axle as well, so it doesn't impede movement of the other axles, or over-size the coupling rod crankpin hole for it, and just let it do it's own thing.

 

Although plastic worms/gears aren't new, I'm surprised they feature in an O gauge kit that's bound to be fairly heavy as it's W/M. More that the ratio appears to be quite low, (25/30-1?). I would have thought that, given the nature of the loco, and the wheel size, at least 40 or 50-1 would have been more appropriate even though the Mashima 1833 is reasonably slow running. But then I like slow running, and fit high ratio (80-1) D/R gearboxes to all my personal 7mm locos.

 

With regard to the mentioned G5, I have made the connoisseur kit, and like all those makers kits, both loco and rolling stock, assembled well. The key with that is to give the bogie split axle current collection.

 

Hope these comments might help someone.

 

Izzy

 

Interesting comments and I agree with the compensation solution. Concerning split axles, why has no manufacturer to date come up with a ready-made offering? I would have thought a ready-made split axle set up coupled with a set of Tufnol frame spacers would be a winner. Ixion specialises in RTR, but perhaps we should examine this problem. 

[Kenton]

 

Interesting comments and I agree with the compensation solution. Concerning split axles, why has no manufacturer to date come up with a ready-made offering? I would have thought a ready-made split axle set up coupled with a set of Tufnol frame spacers would be a winner. Ixion specialises in RTR, but perhaps we should examine this problem. 

I would agree especially it removes the issue of pickups as well. However is Tufnol frame spacers an adequate solution? I'm not convinced. The purpose of frame spacers is primarily to add strength then to ensure the appropriate width between the frames for that specific kit. I am unconvinced that the bond of Tufna. to frames is adequate or appropriate. Though some form of brass/ns plate bonded flat to the Tufnol at either end used to solder to the frame or cutting the frame spacer and then bonding to either side of a Tufnol or pcb (oh, yeh, forgot that is the way it is done now!) The axles remain the biggest problem as drilling, gluing,cutting is so awkward and hit/miss or at least in my hands.

[81A Oldoak]

 I would agree especially it removes the issue of pickups as well. However is Tufnol frame spacers an adequate solution? I'm not convinced. The purpose of frame spacers is primarily to add strength then to ensure the appropriate width between the frames for that specific kit. I am unconvinced that the bond of Tufna. to frames is adequate or appropriate. Though some form of brass/ns plate bonded flat to the Tufnol at either end used to solder to the frame or cutting the frame spacer and then bonding to either side of a Tufnol or pcb (oh, yeh, forgot that is the way it is done now!) The axles remain the biggest problem as drilling, gluing,cutting is so awkward and hit/miss or at least in my hands.

Perhaps someone can come up with an idea for the frames. Meanwhile, there must be a market for the axles and wheels.

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

you can get ready made spit axles at about £12 each.

 

For making the frame spacers. Solder some PCB under the kit spacers and cut them through to gap the pair.

 

OzzyO.

[Izzy]

My sincere apologies to Malc for posting some comments that have started a discussion on split-axles, which are really nothing to do with this excellent thread.

Since this subject might benefit from further comments would it be better to start a separate thread?

 

Izzy

[ozzyo]

My sincere apologies to Malc for posting some comments that have started a discussion on split-axles, which are really nothing to do with this excellent thread.

Since this subject might benefit from further comments would it be better to start a separate thread?

 

Izzy

 

Hello Izzy all,

 

I thought that we had!

 

OzzyO.

[martin1]

looking very impressive !

[Dudley]

Good evening,

Have been following this Cl.14 thread with interest as they are a firm favourite > http://dudleysphotos.zenfolio.com/p422354883/h12d14b6f#h12d14b6f

 

Would be interested to know what the RTR version from DJH is like given some of the 'issues' that have been mentioned here. How do they square-up the discrepancy between accessory boxes/cab/running plate, for example?

 

D

[malc125]

Finished at last, Just got to sort out a decoder, damaged one while trying to get servo for uncoupler to work. Move the servo arm by hand to get it to a mid position and the generated e.m.f. broke the decoder! I still live and learn.

Not enough room inside cab to get a couple of seats in for driver, so settled for standing figure instead,

Had to angle centre steps out a bit to clear connecting rods.

[Kenton]

Shame about the colour! I just have an aversion to Blue locos unless they are Caledonian

 

 

Had to angle centre steps out a bit to clear connecting rods.

 

Was there the possibility of shaving some off the back of those steps to have them vertical?

[malc125]

Shame about the colour! I just have an aversion to Blue locos unless they are Caledonian

 

 

 

 Was there the possibility of shaving some off the back of those steps to have them vertical?

There is a mesh on the back of the steps and I had already painted the body and steps, only found the problem when I powered the the body and chassis together, The jack shaft is thicker than the wheels  and catches at the top of the stroke. It would be possible to redo the steps and repaint,but my thoughts are to thin the jack shaft cam down by about 2mm, might sort it out somtime in the future. I added the comment so that anyone else building the kit would know about it.

As to the colour, each to their own, I have an aversion to green diesels 

[Kenton]

Thanks, was thinking more of information for those following this topic. If the steps are fouling and could be shaved before attaching it might help.

[Lord Flashheart]

Very nice that Malc its good to see it finished I, ll hopefully get mine started soon, did you use the DJH transfers?,whilst I prefer BR blue I think the 14s look much better in green, same goes for the Hymeks, that doesn't detract from your model though ,superb work.

[malc125]

Very nice that Malc its good to see it finished I, ll hopefully get mine started soon, did you use the DJH transfers?,whilst I prefer BR blue I think the 14s look much better in green, same goes for the Hymeks, that doesn't detract from your model though ,superb work.

Transfers are from DJH , not cheap but if you were to buy the seperate elements i.e. wasp stripes, numbers etc it would probably work out to cost the same

 

DJH does transfers for other versions, under accessories on their website

 

Thanks for your coments, would like to hear how you get on. I'm glad to get it finished, it ended up putting up a bit of a fight but I was determined to finish it.

 

Got decoder working, it was only a broken wire on my decoder testing board, saved buying another decoder. So I'm going to attempt to get the uncoupling servo working, and have added a working fan using a small ex computer motor.

[malc125]

Thanks, was thinking more of information for those following this topic. If the steps are fouling and could be shaved before attaching it might help.

Having had another look and a think, you would loose a raised part at the back of the steps if you try to thin them down, but could replace with strip of metal or plastic. You could remove material from the front but the steps are prowd of the sides. Still think best option is to thin jack shaft crank.

[Lord Flashheart]

Well yes, having got a few projects pretty much completed I've finally made a start on the 14.

The photo shows what I've got completed so far though I have made and had the coupling rods fitted temporarily to check all was ok and apart from me not getting the wheels quarterd (doh!) it was.

As this is very much a learning curve for me and a lot of firsts for my modeling progress will be steady but I'm determined to do the best I can. Thanks to the excellent work set by Malc125 it, ll hopefully all work out good.

[malc125]

Looking good, nice to see another one being built.

[ianwales]

Hi all

 

Great build and very helpful, a loco I was thinking of doing until I read on the DJH website the minimum 72inch radius, not much use for me as my maximum radius I can squeeze in will be 54 inches! Still fancy having one though if im honest.

 

Ian