Jump to content

Manna's Workbench, D2, Sentinel, Q1, N1, D3, a pair of J3's, C2, J6 +others


Recommended Posts

G'Day Folks

 

Small update, most of the parts needed have now been made or cleaned up, just a case of putting all of the back together again, boilers been cut to size and glued to the smokebox, firebox and cab next.

 

manna

DSCF5767.jpg

DSCF5769.jpg

DSCF5770.jpg

DSCF5771.jpg

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Folks

 

This build is coming together quiet quickly on only a couple of hours a day, building the B2 helped, most of the basic body work is almost complete , splashers made up, dome on and a fair bit of filler but only in a couple of places. The tender chassis is almost complete, being held together with pegs and a G clamp, see pic below.

 

manna

DSCF5773.jpg

DSCF5774.jpg

DSCF5775.jpg

DSCF5777.jpg

DSCF5778.jpg

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

Really inspiring stuff Terry........good luck with your op!, whils't your're recovering you might contemplate a move to Stanier country.........really make your work more helpful to us lesser mortals ( me !!!}:jester::jester:.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

 

Rgds.......Mike

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Folks

 

 Thank you for your replies and best wishes on my impending visit to the works for re-tubing and superheating  ! But I regret to announce that my visit to the works has been cancelled, due to a outbreak of Covid 19 in South Australia................ Bl**dy typical. I had a phone call from the hospital a couple of hours ago, luckily I'm not to bad (In myself) but who knows!

Mike I really don't know a lot about Mr. Stanier's locos, Maybe I'll have to look into some of the other LMS designs, something with a Parallel boiler and not one of those funny shaped ones, Full steam ahead and 'Dreadnought'.

So as a consolation prize, here's a pic of a Q1.

 

manna

DSCF5780.jpg

  • Like 11
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Folks

 

Time for an update, more rubbing down to-day, and the Cab cutouts, have been cutout ! Engine and Tender have been painted Grey, allows me and everybody else see all the blemish's. Started to transfer motor and gears from another R1 over to my blank chassis.

 

 

manna

DSCF5787.jpg

DSCF5788.jpg

DSCF5790.jpg

  • Like 12
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

G'Day Folks

 

Today I swopped over the running gear from the R1, not running yet, haven't soldered any wires back on and the pick ups might need adjusting, a small slot in the underside of the boiler is all that it needs to fit over the chassis. a lousy coat of paint has been applied, no matt black left so Satin will have to do for the moment, I still have some heavily thinned matt black.

 

Been extra cold here to-day, only 4c at Midday.

 

manna

DSCF5791.jpg

DSCF5794.jpg

DSCF5793.jpg

DSCF5795.jpg

Edited by manna
Added content.
  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

Being a ex pom, the weather will give you something to complain about. UK in the middle of a heatwave with mid 20s for nearly two weeks.

 

The GBL tender? Did you just cut off the static wheels and drill through to use the original cast metal block?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, cheesysmith said:

Being a ex pom, the weather will give you something to complain about. UK in the middle of a heatwave with mid 20s for nearly two weeks.

 

The GBL tender? Did you just cut off the static wheels and drill through to use the original cast metal block?

G'day.

 

Unusual to be so cold at that time of day, bet your loving the heat, I know I do.

 

I have tried that, cutting off the static wheels and drilling holes for the axles, didn't turn out that good, so I've gone back to making a sub chassis. I'll put up a pic tomorrow.

 

manna

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Folks

 

Updates coming thick and fast ! Decided on a quiet day to-day, lining and numbers, two and a half hours later.

 

And for cheesysmith, the internals of how I make up the wheels for the tender, I start off with a thick bit of Perspex, then I glue either L, U or square brass to it, then I cut a groove in the brass to fit the axles in, after fitting the axles in I fill in the gaps between the axles with plastic, when all is dry I cover all the underside with a thin piece of plastic to stop the axles from falling out (see pics).

DSCF5797.jpg

DSCF5798.jpg

DSCF5799.jpg

DSCF5800.jpg

DSCF5801.jpg

  • Like 16
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

G'Day Folks

 

Still fiddling with a few loco's, but I've gone back to a loco I started back in Feb 2020, the four cylinder C1 Atlantic (page 14) I was going to use a Schools tender drive unit, but they are getting expensive and rare, so I scrapped that idea, I have a fair few B12 chassis laying around, so I'm now using one of those, I've fitted modern ( Hornby) A3 wheels to the front two axle holes, the rear one is almost right for the trailing wheel.

 

Today I have been trying to fit the valve gear off of a Hornby Fowler 2-6-4T, with very little work, it fits. Which is as far as I've got, but still lots to do.

 

manna

DSCF5806.jpg

DSCF5807.jpg

  • Like 14
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, manna said:

G'Day Folks

 

Still fiddling with a few loco's, but I've gone back to a loco I started back in Feb 2020, the four cylinder C1 Atlantic (page 14) I was going to use a Schools tender drive unit, but they are getting expensive and rare, so I scrapped that idea, I have a fair few B12 chassis laying around, so I'm now using one of those, I've fitted modern ( Hornby) A3 wheels to the front two axle holes, the rear one is almost right for the trailing wheel.

 

Today I have been trying to fit the valve gear off of a Hornby Fowler 2-6-4T, with very little work, it fits. Which is as far as I've got, but still lots to do.

 

manna

DSCF5806.jpg

DSCF5807.jpg

 

 

I've long been curious about your use of Hornby wheels as here or I presume on the B8.

 

Do you find these easy to quarter properly, or is it quite tricky? I'd be grateful for any tips as it is an attractive option as a source of wheels. As it stands, even when I widen out the drivers, for example when Hornby have got the back to back wrong, I'm quite worried one of them will fall off and I won't manage to get them true again!

 

Many thanks,

 

John.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

 

 

I've long been curious about your use of Hornby wheels as here or I presume on the B8.

 

Do you find these easy to quarter properly, or is it quite tricky? I'd be grateful for any tips as it is an attractive option as a source of wheels. As it stands, even when I widen out the drivers, for example when Hornby have got the back to back wrong, I'm quite worried one of them will fall off and I won't manage to get them true again!

 

Many thanks,

 

John.

G'Day John

 

I don't find quartering to difficult, I usually do one side first, then fit the con rods, which keeps the wheels in alinement, I then turn the loco over, using the edge of a board to hold the con rods in place (in the down position) I then carefully push the wheels on, gently tapping them on the axle, I do sometimes have to take a wheel off 'cos it's a fraction 'out', but Hornby wheels can be fairly forgiving being plastic.

 

manna

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, 46256 said:

Gday Manna that’s a fair concoction of parts to start with, will follow with interest 

 

best wishes Brian

G'Day Brian

 

It's taken me a while to pluck up courage to give it a go, the chassis (motorless) does roll, I'll probably fit a small Chinese motor, got to keep the height down.

 

manna

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, manna said:

G'Day John

 

I don't find quartering to difficult, I usually do one side first, then fit the con rods, which keeps the wheels in alinement, I then turn the loco over, using the edge of a board to hold the con rods in place (in the down position) I then carefully push the wheels on, gently tapping them on the axle, I do sometimes have to take a wheel off 'cos it's a fraction 'out', but Hornby wheels can be fairly forgiving being plastic.

 

manna

 

That's a very clever idea, thank you.

 

John.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Folks

 

A bit of an advancement on the C1, front bogie has been fitted, as you can see off of a A4, and believe it or not, I bought a pair of these bogies from Malta, in keeping with it's cosmopolitan selection of parts.

The cylinders have been enlarged (roughly) and the footplate cut to make it fit, Cab and Boiler have loosely placed on top to show you how it'll (hopefully) go together. One normal pic, the other with the 'Flash' in case you can't see under the footplate.

 

manna

DSCF5814.jpg

DSCF5816.jpg

  • Like 9
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Manna,

How about a crack at one of these. An LNER G7 from a Triang M7. Not really a great difference between the 2. First 2 pictures are the G7 and the second 2 an M7. Last 3 pictures are the Trian M7.

g7.gif

g7.jpg

 

M7 3.jpg

BR M7.jpg

M7 1.jpg

M7 2.jpg

M7.jpg

Edited by cypherman
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Cypherman

 

There's a great likeness in those two loco's. A overlay of the side tanks and curving the tops of the tanks, would save a lot of work in narrowing the cab and bunker.

 

I've just bought a shortish four wheel chassis off of e-bay, which maybe from a M7, but I'm thinking more along the lines of a GER 2-4-2T or a 0-4-4T, we'll have to see which is the closest fit.

 

manna

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

G'day Folks

 

Time for an update, not going to be a fast build, not that type of loco.

 

Slowly building up the cylinders, playing with the boiler, making sure it's true, the cab has advanced to, now has the correct roofline, more K2, rather than C1, plus I've joined the runningplate by the cylinders, not so floppy.

 

manna

DSCF5843.jpg

DSCF5844.jpg

DSCF5845.jpg

  • Like 13
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

G'day Folks

 

I don't have many failures, but today I have to admit a failure on the C1, trying to fit it together over the weekend, I couldn't get get it to fit right, until I sat back and had a good look at it and wondering 'Why'.  Until I realised that the cylinders were in the wrong place !!!!, they are suppose to be between the bogie wheels not level with the rear bogie wheel, they are 4-6 mm out, no wonder I couldn't get it to fit, 'Idiot boy'. The C1 has been relegated to a box, until I can acquire a valvegear set from a LMS ' Royal Scot, I've checked the dimension off of the Royal Scot plans, having a longer Piston rod, it will put the cylinders in the right place.

 

Time to attack another innocent loco...................

 

manna

  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Folks

 

Putting the Atlantic behind me. as usual, I've started another loco, this time a Midland design, a Johnson 2f 0-6-0, as used by the M&GN, J40, but instead of a RTR chassis, this one is scratch built. I've used Dublo/Wrenn wheels, mainly, because I had them, a $2 Chinese open frame motor and Hornby gears, complete the chassis, today I fitted the motor and pick ups, and with a bit of weight, it runs !!, that surprised me !

 

I must also mention 46256, who inspired me with his build and help with dimensions. Thanks mate.

manna

DSCF5873.jpg

DSCF5874.jpg

Edited by manna
  • Like 11
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...