MikeTrice Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 Thompson teak: second attempt. Taken a different approach this time. Started with my usual light orange base coat over white primer. Apply masking tape over both lower panels and using an airbrush feathered Villejo Orange Brown along the 'seam'. With a post-it note quickly masked along various verticals and also applied shadow. For variety did the same with Sunny Skin Tone. Peeled off masking and remasked just the lowest panel and repeated the shading on the waist panel trying to randomise the shading. Peeled off last of the masking and shadowed the lower edge. This is the result: The Vallejo paint is very fine. It was thinned with Revell Aqua Color Mix and gave good coverage with no paint build up along the masking. Masking reapplied along the lower edge of the windows and teak graining applied to the upper panels with Burnt Umber oil paint and Liquin as before. I found a slightly higher content of Liquin worked well on the Thompsons: After leaving the paint to dry overnight, the masking was removed and new masking applied over the top graining to provide a good line for the lower panels. Teak graining then applied to the lower panels: The results are very subtle, with the panel demarcations just being visible, just like the prototype. Unlike my first abortive attempt I can live with this one! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Looks brilliant, well done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 Not certain if the forum will let me post this image, but for a change I have scanned the side rather than photograph it. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Excellent work Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 Excellent work Mike. Thanks. Got there in the end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 P.S Send a copy to Hornby/Bachmann before anymore LNER Thompson livery cockups . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 P.S Send a copy to Hornby/Bachmann before anymore LNER Thompson livery cockups . Watch this space! Awaiting natural light to reveal all. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 As hinted at last night, here is a Hornby Thompson Coach as supplied. Due to printing limitations there are prminent dark frames around the doors which distract from the overall appearance. Likewise the printing process has been unable to get into the corners of the droplights also leaving them dark brown: It did oocur to me that I might be able to use oil paints and Liquin to apply the missing overgraining. Here is the result: It totally transforms the vehicle!.The graining was applied using Windsor and Newton Chrome Yellow Hue to which a VERY small amount of Burnt Umber was added. Liquin used to thin as before. The graining was painted over the dark surrounds and any overspill cleaned up with a dry brush. Unfortunately I did this in artificial light last night nd it suffer for it as a result. In daylight it is clear how badly I cleaned up, however I do believe the effort worthwhile as the vehicles look much better. As an aside the roughness around some of the windows is not where I have gone off line with the paint, it was already on the windows on the coach as supplied. Honest. The only down side is that the Chrome Yellow Hue does seem to take longer to dry than the Burnt Umber 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 (edited) Just to prove that a neater (hopefully) job is possible. The mix: Applying the graining: Graining applied. Some clean-up required: After clean-up with a clean brush dipped in Turps and most moisture removed: And yes the marks on the windows are down to me. I am hoping these will disappear after a coat of Clear once the oil is dry. Edited September 29, 2013 by MikeTrice 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 A word of warning for anyone wishing to follow my lead and modify their Hornby Thompson's. As I discovered putting some photos up for a sister thread, thinners/turpentine will dissolve the Hornby overprinting so to ensure this does not happen give the body a coat of Acrylic Satin varnish first. I have use the Vallejo Satin varnish which goes on thinly and gives a superb finish, in fact it is difficult to see where it has been applied. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 Applying the acrylic varnish before overpainting the brown has worked very well. I have also adjusted my paint formular to give an even close match the the Hornby paint scheme: Yellow Ochre with just a touch of Burnt Sienna thinned with Liquin as before. Here are some doors treated straight from the paint shop (so paint appears slightly glossy). Some hours later I spotted some smudges on the windows in the photo and have since removed them with turps and a fine brush. Untreated door on left. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sylvian Tennant Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 I love the effect you've created there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Final result. I have taken to using a wash to emphasise the door joints but am not 100% convinced of the result. Any views? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Mike The lines/gaps in the Hornby lining are much too dark thay are emphasing the gaps instead of concealing them . I now have two Thompson 3rds. I will be leaving mine as they are. At a normal viewing distance they look fine IMHO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Agreed, which is why I paint them to match the panels. It makes a big difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Sorry Mike, I mean your painting of the gaps not beforehand. I wonder if the close up photos are exagerating the finished result. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 The enlargements certainly do not help. The trouble is without them the sides seem very flat. As I said, I am in two minds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 This is a really cruel enlargement showing original door on left and treated on right, without shading added. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I think the problem is ,you can still see the darker gap lines on either side of the door join, but where there should be a door line, it is painted out (I hope that makes sense !!) Either way cracking coaches !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) It is probably over zealous clean up. The oil top coat is semi-transparent by design so you will still see hard edges however I really should do this under magnification with good lighting. Bear in mind how small this is in reality (and my eyesight is not what it once was). In my opinion it is still better than the untreated door on the left and is much improved at normal viewing distance. Edited October 8, 2013 by MikeTrice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 The pictures of the two doors and the overall pictures, just show how a huge improvement you've made to the coaches. Well done. Look forward to seeing more of your work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 I am running out of coaches to treat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I am running out of coaches to treat Not quite, what about a GNR(I) coach, they were in teak as well, would look amazing. http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/4mm/4mm_Irish_Standard_Gauge.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45609 Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) Mike, I think the enlarged picture helps see the improvement your brush work creates as I found the unweathered roof and underframe a bit distracting. To me some weathering on the rest of the coach will help with the overall effect. Also I feel that the Hornby printing on the panels is a bit too much of the same thing. It needs more variety of graining, longer streaks, waviness etc... less of the elliptical shapes/knotting and, perhaps, a bit more colour variation. Well done with what you've done so far. It is showing us the way. Cheers....Morgan Edited October 10, 2013 by mlgilbert30 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 As had been stated previously, something had to be done with those roofs. So I have been experimenting with a technique known as "Oil Wash" which gets mentioned in posts occasionally. This involves a smidgen of oil colour thinned with Mineral Spirits. So a few experiments first: A wagon with a fairly heavy application: And a thinner application just toning down the lettering: Streaking applied to the roof: So encouraged by the results I braved applying it to one of the Hornby models. I was after a very light weathering rather than a heavy application and after application wiped a lot of it off with tissue paper resulting in: and Much better than the original off white. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now