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LNWR D205 & now a D133


farren
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  • RMweb Gold

have been tinking i would like a rake of ex-LNWR coaches for some time now, and after trying to scratch build some decided to buy a kit instead to save a lot of frustration. i'll be staring with the brake comp D 205. it a 247 development kit and to me looks a very nice kit but that's from some one who's never built one until now here's a pic before work starts for any one just wanting to now what you get in the box.

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Edited by farren
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi farren, this looks an interesting kit. I have built Comet ones but none from this company so will be following with interest. Let us have lots of photos please. Do the sides have have a tumblehome? I expect they do and has this already been done for you? Comet don't preform this for you with their panalled sides, so I expect 24/7 don't either. It's a pity 24/7 use white metal ends, all brass is far easier to solder. Will you be soldering or glue? I would suggest getting some Comet brass ends.

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  • RMweb Gold

the coach dose have a tumblehome and no you have to do it your self (after i found out what a tumblehome was learnt something today thank you) it will be a all solder  construction you cant beet it for strength and speed no time wasted on drying i will put more pics when work starts  over the weekend 

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  • RMweb Gold

Good man. It will be interesting to see how well those sides and ends go together. You have to form the tumblehome yourself with Comet panalled sides too, but I seem to end up with a crease rather than a bend. I don't know why they preform flat sided coaches but not panalled ones.

Edited by Rowsley17D
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  • RMweb Gold

thanks they are good books i slowly working my way buying them all i think its 7 now. any way here's some more pics most is self explanatory but ask questions if you wish. 

 

the D205 were double ended brake composite  and where in built 1910 but where never tri-composites unlike others of the same time they where all gone by 1952.

 

as I model BR it will have to be pre 52.

 

dose any one know if  they would have been counted as secondary stock and if so would they ever have seen blood an custard or would most still been in LMS colours the book i have is the LNWR coaches including WCJS but as NO colour photos and no pic of the 205 which dose'nt help

 

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  • RMweb Gold

This is looking the business now. Just a question about solder, are you using just a bit too much or is your iron not hot enough? I know you don't want melt those white metal ends. As with building the Comet suburbans, it doesn't half improve your technique the more you do.

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  • RMweb Gold

hi David  i am pleased  that i have manage to inspired to buy one, what I would say is the delivery time can be on the slow side i ordered this one on the 16th of June and it turned up the first week of August saying that it didn't stop me ordering a D133 the next day hopefully it wont take till October to  get here.

 

hi Jonathan it might have been it was a bit low as I did take one side off one side and put it back on about 0.25 mm higher after cutting, and fitting the roof the was a gap along the  whole length of the coach. and was worried about ending up with two blobs for the ends and i don't think I reset the heat after or it could be i just need to improve the technique. 

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This is looking the business now. Just a question about solder, are you using just a bit too much or is your iron not hot enough? I know you don't want melt those white metal ends. As with building the Comet suburbans, it doesn't half improve your technique the more you do.

Perhaps a bigger bit or a more powerful iron is required. The solder looks as though it is "freezing" through insufficient "power" rather than the temp being too low.

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  • RMweb Gold

the iron is 48watts 100c to 450c its just had a new iron brought for it as the old one died on it, i'll swop the tip latter see if that helps as its got the one it came with on at the moment 

Edited by farren
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the iron is 48watts 100c to 450c its just had a new iron brought for it as the old one died on i swop the tip latter see if the helps as its got the one it came with on at the moment 

That should be more than adequate. What solder are you using? I set my Antex 50W at 225 for 145 solder.

 

Are you using a liquid flux? I find that helps a lot, both by chemically "cleaning" the metal and conducting some heat.

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  • RMweb Gold

i have liquid flux 9% acid I have just switch it on to have a  look at the temp setting its reading 205 the solder is 145 so it may be that i'll up the temp and run over the joins latter see if that improves them, well we talking solder can i use 145 to solder white metal casting to the aluminum roof?

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  • RMweb Gold

Farren, I glue my roofs on with a bit of Evostik. This means you can get them off if you want to populate them or if reglazing is needed when you accidentally poke a window out when picking up a coach. (Ask me how I know.)

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  • RMweb Gold

Jonathan sorry if i did not explain well enough i meant the casting such as the air vents etc to the roof as for the body to the under frame it sets  on two lips at the ends so i might be able to put two screws in so the  coach roof could be solder to the body and just have the screws to undo to get inside if needed by lifting the body of the frames But that is only a may be, i'll have to look and see if that would work with out gitting in the way of the bogies 

Edited by farren
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i have liquid flux 9% acid I have just switch it on to have a  look at the temp setting its reading 205 the solder is 145 so it may be that i'll up the temp and run over the joins latter see if that improves them, well we talking solder can i use 145 to solder white metal casting to the aluminum roof?

 

I've built my coaches of this type on construction with detachable roofs. Two strips of brass wedged and glued between the flanges of the roof moulding, with a nut soldered to each. Longs bolt through the floor into the nuts.

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  • RMweb Gold

Roof details were superglued on, I think. It's a while since I made a coach with a metal roof, my latest ones have been plastic from Dapol knock-down kits, but I am fairly sure I used glue.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for the ideas every one, what I would say is buy some queen post from some one else as the ones with the kit need drilling out and after breaking 3 drills i ended up soldering the rods to the post and a right pin it was.

 

One thing I am stuck on is the regulator box which side dose it go on, the drawing dose not say is it the corridor or compartment side? Also dose the middle step support need removing for the fitting of the regulator box

or dose it site behind the center step support the drawing shows it in the center of the coach with out the post but says nothing of removing it. The book I have dose not help on this as most photos are in LNWR days the rest are LMS and there is is no photo of the 205 anyway.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi jonathan sorry I haven't been doing much on the coach this week been doing some work on the princess royal instead. I have ordered some pin point bearings, wheels for it. So when they trun up I crack on with it. And found out which side the battery box goes

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dose any one know if  they would have been counted as secondary stock and if so would they ever have seen blood an custard or would most still been in LMS colours the book i have is the LNWR coaches including WCJS but as NO colour photos and no pic of the 205 which dose'nt help

 

I model the LNWR in South Wales and have similar kits from a variety of suppliers. I need a cove roof version of the double ended brake. In terms of paint. They were fully lined by the LMS. After the LMS simplified the lining this was applied to the odd LNW carriage. Under BR they seem to have received unlined maroon - suburban without lining or insignia, just running numbers and as my interest is South Wales they had M XXXX W.

 

Regards.

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