National Coal Board - Royd Hall Drift & Royal Oak Sidings.

[Ruston]

I'm about to embark on another layout project. Work on the layout itself won't begin for at least a month as the shed it's going to be housed in isn't being put up until next week but here's the plan.

 

Royd Hall Colliery is a fictitious location, set somewhere between Huddersfield and Wakefield, which came under the NCB's North Eastern Division, Area No.6 in the time the layout is set (1966).

 

I won't be modelling the entire colliery and due to the usual space constraints things will be rather compressed and probably not operated prototypically but industrial locomotives, filth, rust, grime and decay will be the order of the day.

 

I'm hoping to have the screens working, i.e. I can lift the roof off at the start of an operating session and fill it with coal and then, by means yet to be devised, load the wagons.

 

The track plan shown will take up one side of the shed and to the far left the exit/entry will go into the garden under a covered semi-circle to re-enter the shed on the opposite side. Here there will be the fiddle yard and a work bench with test track. At some point I may add scenics to the fiddle yard and would like to put in a working wagon tippler with canal basin.

 

Edited October 15, 2016 by Ruston

[Debs.]

I really like the concept, the plan and the ideas for dirty-detailing!

This project is surely going to be one to watch: I`m really looking forward to following progress (doubtlessly, in awe; as I have so often been with BT&S)

[Ruston]

As usual, I'm not doing things in any particular order... Here are some wagons for the layout.

 

Hudson V-tipper for spoil duties. Built from an RT models kit but modified to have screw brakes, instead of the lever brakes provided in the kit. I didn't set out to make it differently but the brake gear etches in the kit were nowhere near the standard of the rest of it. I'm going to need another 5 of these.

 

Internal use wagons for landsale coal or for transfer into canal boats. RTR unpainted Lionheart wagons, painted by myself and with transfers from Fox.

Edited February 15, 2023 by Ruston

[rope runner]

I do have to say, the weathering on that Hudson V-tipper is spot-on.

 

I'll be watching, as I expect many will, with great interest.

 

Paul A.

[asa]

The wagons are quite superb Ruston,look forward to the new project.

[hartleymartin]

Are those Hudson V-tippers hard to build? They might be just the ticket for a project of mine!

[Ruston]

Not particularly. I think they are currently unavaliable but I'm hoping the etches for the brake gear will be improved when they are back in production.

[Ruston]

The shed has landed!

Edited February 15, 2023 by Ruston

[Arthur]

Landed in one piece I hope! A major step forward in the project, looking forward to seeing it develop Dave.

 

Are you going to let us know how you prepare the shed, fit it out etc? I'm sure that will be of interest to many of us.

[5050]

Looking forward to seeing this develop.  If it's anything like BT&S then it'll be a cracker.

[Ruston]

Landed in one piece I hope! A major step forward in the project, looking forward to seeing it develop Dave.

 

Are you going to let us know how you prepare the shed, fit it out etc? I'm sure that will be of interest to many of us.

I didn't intend to, Arthur. I suppose I could if people are interested?

[Arthur]

Well Dave, it's a path I might well be taking myself, perhaps next year. I've already fitted out a wooden outbuilding as a music (oh, alright, a bedlam) studio for my drum kits.

 

I'd be interested, and I'm sure others will be, in how you approach things like the foundations/base, insulation, any damp barriers, any heating, fitting and finishing inner walls and floor, basically how you've made a wooden shed a suitable home for a model railway.

[Ruston]

It's a bit late for the foundations/base bit.

 

Most of it is over an old concrete garage floor from when we had a pre-fab concrete garage and latterly a greenhouse. The rest is sat over open earth. It's all raised off the ground on breeze blocks so that it won't sit in any puddles that may form. I intend to paint it with primer/undercoat and then a coat of gloss, probably dark blue, and then maybe add NCB signage as if it's a weigh cabin.

 

On the inside I'm thinking of insulation covered in with hardboard on the sides, ends and roof. Probably hardboard on the floor, over the planking, and then a carpet. There'll be some extra security measures too, even though I certainly won't be keeping any engines in there!

 

There's also the problem of getting leccy into it. I want something more permanent than an extension lead out of the door and into the house...

 

I don't have a flat cap but I do own a whippet.

 

Edited February 15, 2023 by Ruston

[Arthur]

Ha, whippets!, dog or bitch Dave? Wonderful dogs, so long as you don't mind them on the furniture!

 

Let's have a brief diversion, though if whippets belong on any thread, one about a northern colliery couldn't be more apt.

 

Here's Poppy, our rescue whippet lurcher;

 

 

And here with her friend Pippin, a pure bred who stays with us quite often;

 

 

Watching these two race round the garden always puts a smile on my face.

 

 

Back to the shed, yeah, that's the kind of stuff that's of interest. So a largely concrete base. A photo or two of the interior as you progress would be helpful too.

 

Thanks

Arthur

[BG John]

Ha, whippets!, dog or bitch Dave? Wonderful dogs, so long as you don't mind them on the furniture!

It's called FURniture. What else is it for other than animals?

[Ruston]

Alfred. His mother is a prize-winning whippet and his father a whippet/bedlington lurcher.

There doesn't seem to be any long dog models available in 7mm.

 

[Arthur]

A handsome dog, Dave. We think Poppy has a bit of Jack Russell in her but nobody knows, she was a rescue dog from Ireland. Anyway, back to industrial railway modelling!

[Ruston]

This project is not dead, it's just sleeping. I have bought some hardboard and insulation to line the ceiling and walls with. I'd have probably got this done by now if it wasn't for the need to buy a new van for work shortly after buying the shed.

 

I'm waiting for a quote from a sparky, who came and took a look, for getting electrickery into the shed and to a security light. He muttered something about needing a new wotsit with the trip thingies fitting under the stairs because the current one won't be able to cope with the extra load (of a few lights and a couple of sockets?). Sounds expensive to me and also smells like bullsh1t...

Edited October 23, 2013 by Ruston

[Kenton]

 

Sounds expensive to me and also smells like bullsh1t...

Sounds right to me. You should always be careful with outside electrics. Correct cable and LSD (or whatever they are called) breakers. You can never have enough sockets to power tools and railways (and the kettle) in a man shed. The light is also handy to allow you to work in there during log dark winter nights, and don't forget the 3 bar heater and air con (dehumidifier) for the summer.

 

Oh and always get more than one quote for comparison of the quality of the bullsh1t.

Edited October 23, 2013 by Kenton

[uax6]

Quick rule of thumb to see if you are being conned. Look at your consumer unit. There is a main breaker in it, which will have a load rating. Add up all the other breakers and if they come to the same as the main breaker you will need a new unit. Also it depends on if there are spare ways in the unit. The sparky might fit an extra consumer unit just for the shed.....

 

I would expect that a 32A ring main is what he's thinking of fitting in there with a 5A lighting feed. I also guess that the shed end will have a small consumer unit having the ring and lighting brekers and the main isolator in too.

 

Get at least one other quote, better to get two or three <detailed> ones, showing exactly what they intend to fit, so that you get a meaningful comparision...

 

Andy G

[Ruston]

He has come back with a quote for getting electricity into the shed. I should have sat down before I read it...

 

£906. Yes, nine hundred and six pounds to fit a new consumer unit, a PIR light and get electricity into the shed! That's £755 before VAT.

 

Is it even worth me getting another quote - will there be a great deal of price difference from one electrician to another? There's no way on this earth that I'm paying that!

[Arthur]

Daylight robbery, as an example, a 10 way consumer unit under the stairs about £60:00 and a two way for the shed about £15:00 plus a bit of cable and a days work (if that). I know what's involved as In the past I've fitted those bits myself. I know with current regs. that's not allowed these days, it just puts you in the hands of rip off merchants.

 

Has he given you a breakdown of cost of parts and estimated time and rate?

 

I'd certainly get another quote, that sounds bloody outrageous for whats's involved.

[Ruston]

Daylight robbery, as an example, a 10 way consumer unit under the stairs about £60:00 and a two way for the shed about £15:00 plus a bit of cable and a days work (if that). I know what's involved as In the past I've fitted those bits myself. I know with current regs. that's not allowed these days, it just puts you in the hands of rip off merchants.

 

Has he given you a breakdown of cost of parts and estimated time and rate?

 

I'd certainly get another quote, that sounds bloody outrageous for whats's involved.

He hasn't give the time but the quote breaks down thus:

 

Exchange consumer unit - £350

Install earth bonds to gas/water £120

SWA cable to shed - £65

Shed wiring - £120

LED PIR lighting to side of shed - £95

 

I've aksed around elsewhere and it appears that the reason these people can charge extortionate rates is all to do with regulations and bits of paper that you are supposed to have. (I should have realised this - it is 21st century Britain, where you'll soon need a certificate of approval to fart).

 

I'm going to drill a hole in the conservatory and one in the shed and run an extension cable from the socket in the conservatory into the shed. I'll put the cable in a pipe, tucked under the step so it can't get damaged or betripped over. That way it's just an extension cable that can be unplugged as if I was using a lawnmower and, as far as I'm concerned, doesn't come under their regulations. A model railway controller and a few light bulbs are not going to draw any more current than the socket can safely take so the place isn't going to burn down and I'll have saved £886 to spend on the railway and not put in the pocket of a robbing so-and-so!

[Arthur]

 

I've aksed around elsewhere and it appears that the reason these people can charge extortionate rates is all to do with regulations and bits of paper that you are supposed to have. (I should have realised this - it is 21st century Britain, where you'll soon need a certificate of approval to fart).

 

That's it in a nutshell. The earth bond for example, a bit of heavy earth cable run from consumer unit to a gas/water pipe, clean pipe, fit earthing clamp, virtually no materials cost, all labour. How long is that going to take, and there's probably already such a connection so he can follow the route.

 

I like your plan, fit a RCD unit between house socket and extension plug, less than £10:00, sorted.

[Kenton]

&nbsp;

Exchange consumer unit - £350

 

What nonsense! A top of the range 13 way 100A unit is less than £120 (including VAT) other units available for less circa £50 perfectly legitimate and established names with different load and output combinations. These all brand new and from reputable dealer (not trade discounted). A small 2way garage unit is less than £25.

 

I know copper prices have gone up considerably but suitable 3 core armoured cable 100m is about £250 (inc VAT) for 100m ... just how far away is the shed? This should be a standard item in his van (just like 15mm copper tube to a plumber).

 

So the real question is do you really need a new house unit and how far away is the shed. Also are you going to do the trenching required to lay the cable.

 

A fully itemised breakdown is what you require to establish how much is being profiteered (they should be allowed some mark up as they have to get parts etc) on the components and what the hourly rate is going to be.

 

The last time I had something done (garden floodlights, water feature, external sockets for BBQ and other garden powered items) Our electrician provided me with a list and I visited our local electrical supplier (Pulse Electrical Distributors) and I purchased the items including cable. Delivery was free and next day - within local range. The electrician simply charged me installation labour and a certification fee (£100) for testing the complete system.

 

Oh and don't forget that they charge their rate based on what they think you will be able to pay. Up north prices are considerably less than prices down south, and if you live in a big house in an exclusive looking area with a fast car and imagined expensive tastes/hobbies on show then the prices go up to match what they think you can pay.

Edited October 30, 2013 by Kenton