Fat Controller Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Sarah, If you're thinking of modifying the K's CCT to PMVs, it might be worth asking those nice people at Parkside if they can supply the ends from their PMVs as spare parts. They've done this for me in the past. That said, the quality of the Parkside moulding is that much better, it'll show up the K's one. Regarding the finish of the window bars; I have a vague feeling that the could be white, or body colour. However, this dates from my recollections of loading Christmas post into them in the 1970s, my memories of which are a bit vague, for some reason. The bogie GUVs may have had some similarities in the sides, but they had very distinctive high roofs, completely different to the three-centred curves of the smaller vans. Once, you could get preformed roofs of different profiles; it may have been Roxey who did them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) Hi TFC... Thanks. If I have any problems with the ends I will certainly bear that in mind. Interesting about the bogie vans roofs....I didn't know that they were so different.... Keyser (Ks) Plastic Kit. SR CCT 4-wheel Van. Part 2The part completed kit...No weight fitted yet...Underside shewing the Vacuum Brake cylinder, etc, spares from the Parkside Dundas Kit (please see other posts on here!).One end.... The two sides...Nem couplings fitted using Parkside Dundas NEM mountings (PA34) on plastic card spacers.The coupling pocket and hook are Hornby parts. (X.9289) Edited June 29, 2016 by Sarahagain 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Lots of model rail enthusiasts named Sarah eh?Lovely work...Cheers!Sarah 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 G'day Sarah.... Thanks for the comments.... See, I can speak Australian! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 G'day Sarah.... Thanks for the comments.... See, I can speak Australian! Funnily enough my dad's family is from Wales (Chirk) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 Chirk.... now the home of Dapol Models! It is indeed, a small world. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted July 2, 2016 Author Share Posted July 2, 2016 Wrenn (Ex Hornby Dublo) SR CCT modifications...As part of our SR PLV/PMV and CCT collection (See kit built versions elswhere on this Forum...), this Wrenn BR Blue CCT (with opening doors!) is going to be re-painted into BR "Crimson" livery...Or possibly late Southern Railway livery...The roof vents will be getting changed....Going by the "Shell" type roof ventilatores, this model is based on a 1950s BR Built example. (The vents on earlier builds were of the "Torpedo" type...)So far, the chassis has bore the brunt of the modifications.The trussing has had the extra vertical braces removed, and also the V hanger on the "wrong" side, away from the vacuum cylinder.There is to be another V hanger added alongside the Vacuum Cylinder, as in the Parkside Dundas kit built example...and possibly some brake linkage....the spare part box is to be raided.The supplied wheels were spoked, and I believe that they "should" be coach sized disk wheels.The Wrenn axle hangers were the "simple" plain ones...Hornby Dublo used some neat axle hangers that have a representation of th ebrake shoes, in line with the wheels.So, the wheel hangers were replaced with brake shoe ones from the spares box, the plastic moulded brake shoes attached to the solebar and springs being cut away.The new wheels are Wrenn Disk Wheels, so probably a tad small, but they work better in the hangers than Hornby Pin-point ones...I did try!Possibly brass bearings inserted into the holes in the hangers would work with pin-point axles, but we don't have any the right size...Yet! The Wrenn "Tri-ang" MKIII type couplings were unscrewed, and the mountings cut off carefully.Parkside Dundas NEM mountings were modified by carefully trimming off the "upstand" so that the base fitted directly onto the bosses for the PECO type Hornby Dublo Couplings. This made the mountings just about the correct hight, matched to another NEM fitted wagon...Hornby Nem Pockets and Narrow Tension Lock Couplings have been fitted.The "scale" type coupling hooks are some of the last of the batch of white metal hooks from the spares boxes...The opening doors will enable some posed pictures of loading and unloading...It came missing one door, so has had a spare door fitted, a brown one!The uneven planking on the body would make it an early BR example, as some later builds used Plywood sides. The uneven planking dates from the War years... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 Loco Drive Black 5 From a Hornby Tender Drive Black 5 My first conversion uses an old Tri-ang Hornby "Hall" Chassis Block, with new "Black 5" type wheels. (The "Hall" uses the same basic chassis block as the B12 (original use!), Flying Scotsman, Black 5, Ivatt 2-6-0 Tender Loco, and even the auto-uncoupler fitted Diesel Shunter!)The early B12 Chassis block does not have the recess for the "Motion Bracket" required by the Black 5. The first two uses for the chassis, B12 and Hall, do not have valve gear, and so do not need a motion bracket.The chassis block was used "reversed" for the Flying Scotsman, and a recess added for the motion bracket then required.The original "rear" end of the chassis block was also modified, with recesses and an 8BA tapped blind hole, to take the Flying Scotsman Chassis Extension.Later Black 5 chassis blocks are missing the 8BA tapped holes for the pick-up plate, and may not have the 8BA tapped hole for the motor mounting screw.The two I am looking at just now do have the motor mounting screw hole tapped 8BA! It is marked on the bottom:-Hornby Made in Great Britain, along with the Euopean "CE" markings. S.4176. Internal Hornbyy Code R759-0590/R859-0560. That relates to the Hall R.759, and the Black 5 R.859.The original "Front" of the chassis block, the rear on the Black 5, has a larger hole to take the body securing screw. this replaces the 8BA tapped hole on the B12/ Hall/ Flying Scotsman chassis blocks, meaning that the later blocks cannot be used with these locos.The hole in the "back" of the block used by the body screw on the B12 and Hall is there, but not tapped 8BA, wheras the hole for the front bogie used for the B12 and Hall is there, and tapped 8BA!Back to the conversion...The Cast weight/ cylinder holder was not used this time, instead I used a Chassis Extension meant for the Tri-ang Hormby "Flying Scotsman", which turned out to be an exact fit when screwed in place, as on the Flying Scotsman Locos.It needed "thickening up", so I used two layers of about 1mm Thick Plastic Card, with the top layer being made to fit the cyinder block to.Mine has the later Valve Gear and Cylinders Hornby used from the "Duchess" Class....the early ones have the "Britannia" Cylinders and Valve Gear, and the Weight Block is different from the later models, as the later Cylinder Block fits on TOP of the extension....The hole for the motor screw was already present on the Hall Chassis, but the Black 5 Body screw requires a hole in the chassis enlarging to fit.I have since contemplated shortening the Weight Block....it still fits OK, and uses the original screw acording to my examination! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) The X.03 powered locos all have Black Single Start Worms on the motors, and mainly Silver-Grey Gear wheels on the driven axle.The X.04 has a brass 2-start worm, and a brass, or black plastic, gear wheel.There is later valve gear ....China Made. I have no experience of that! (But it looks a lot better in the Catalogue photos!)There are two versions of the later Margate Hornby valve gear, that was first used on Duchess of Sutherland.For some strange reason, the vertical link attached to the croshead (techinical name?) is the one used on the 9f valve gear, and is too long! This causes the small "horizontal" link to NOT be horizontal!Some time later, a new vertical link was used, and the horizontal link is horizontal on these sets!My loco runs nice and quiet...no noisier than a Ringfield tender drive! The loco body and tender top and chassis were from the first Hornby Tender Drive Black 5 model, the one with permanently wired tender, and fixed drawbar.The loco boiler handrails were a bit course on the early models, held on with split-pins.I have replaced them with brass handrail knobs and wire.The early Hornby Tenders did not have handrails fitted, so I have fitted matching handrails to the tender.The early tenders have the fittings for pin-point axle wheels, as well as the Ringfield motor block. The loctions are also there for a conventinal Hornby Tender weight.I have Hornby wheels fitted, and a weight, but the tender still needs work to cut out the coal, and build a bunker for real coal, and re-badge with the BR Early Emblem... The pick-up plate is also from a Tri-ang Hornby "Flying Scotsman", though that from a Hall or B12 should work as well.The Gear Wheel is the later pattern, for use with the X.03 motor (Single Start Worm) which has been fitted to the chassis.To fit this gear on a loco would involve removing a wheel from the axle (the insulated side is best), and re-fitting the axle into the chassis with the gear wheel.The best job would involve replacing the axle with one with splines to hold the gear wheel. Edited November 7, 2016 by Sarahagain 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 More Black 5 Photos... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 (edited) A project that has been awaiting for some time...Converting an "open cab" Hornby GWR Class 2721 0-6-0 Pannier Tank loco to the "Closed Cab" version.The number will stay the same for now....it isn't that important! The rear of the cab comes from a Hornby LMS 3F 0-6-0 Tank Loco ("Jinty") that I am converting to "open cab"!. (Using a Crownline kit….)The original 2721 roof has been re-used, extended with plastic card....Spare J94 reverser and handbrake parts have been used, but needed cutting down a lot! I think the reverser is still a bit tall....but will have to stay as is.The beginning...Almost completed building work... The early photo shewing the Handbrake and Reverser are full height, before being cut down....The rear of the cab and Bunker... After initial painting, adding Buffer beam numbers, and Yellow Restriction Spot (Not on the Railroad models...).. The whistles....Hornby provide one short type, and one long type (the old type from the B12, etc..).I have replaced the long thin B12 whistle with another of the "Short" type, but not pushed all the way in so as to resemble the slightly taller second whistle.GWR Locos had two whistles, the higher pitched "Road" whistle for warnings, and the lower pitched "Brake" whistle, which was used to signal to the Guard of a loose coupled loco to apply the brake...The "Portholes" (Spectacles) have had "brass" rims added using a "Brass" or "Gold" coloured fibre tip pen.These pens, including a silver one, have also been used to highlight the cab pipes, etc. Comparison between two 2721 locos....The Open Cab, and the Closed Cab versions... Another Hornby 2721...this one is staying Open Cab....After initial detail painting, fitting crew, Cut down J94 Reverser, and Hornby Handbrake....On this one, the top of a Hornby Handbrake has been attached to a section of plastic tube... Edited July 10, 2017 by Sarahagain 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Does anyone know what the pipes on top of the Starboard (Right side) Tank Top are for? Steam? Vacuum? Air?? I am working on the assumption that there are no electrics on these locos? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) As part of our on-going plan to convert most stock to NEM pockets, we have found that some models (such as Hornby 0-6-0 "Jinty" chassis, and Bachmann Class 04 shunter...) have fixing screws in positions where the NEM pocket has to go. As there is not room to put a removeable pocket over the screw location, (such as is done with Bachmann Pannier Tanks, etc.) we have fixed the pocket in place, and drilled a 2.5mm hole through to allow a slightly longer fixing screw to go through the pocket. Any NEM couplings to be fitted to these locos also require drilling through....while in place in the pocket. Most have worked OK...the tails of the coupling remaining mostly intact, with bits cut out by the drill bit. So far we have "done" one DCC fitted 2721 Pannier Tank (Hornby), and the BM Class 04, which has also been DCC fitted! (The split chassis was already modified to allow DCC fitting by a previuos owner! The Bachmann Class 04... Digitrax decoder fitted...Hardwired...in the cab area... I have added an extra crew member to the cab....looking backwards... One possible "problem" that I have encountered... Not all NEM pockets are mounted on the model by the manufacturer at the correct-to-NEM-specification height above the rails! Bachmann have certainly done this in the past....making special "stepped" small tension lock couplings to fit to these out of spec. NEM paockets. The examples I am now working on are steel mineral wagons. The NEM pocket is too high to put Kadees, or any other straight coupling, into the pockets, as they are then mounted too high. The pocket is about 1mm too high as inseted into the moulded-on fitting. I did try mounting the pocket upside down, and it does fit. It would need some packing between the pocket and the wagon floor, and, to prevent the pocket faling out, it would need glueing. Another idea was to deepen the pocket "wedge" fitting on the wagon. This could be done, I was thinking of using the fitting part of a Parkside Dundas NEM mounting block.... In the end I found that cutting off the wedge part of the mounting on the wagon, leaving the part around the body fixing screw in place, would make space for the Parside NEM Mounting Bracket to fit. The two ribs on the Parkside Dundas bracket were trimmed flush with the base, and the small raised square on the wagon floor was shaved off. The Parkside Dundas mounting was now a direct fit onto the wagon floor, and the mounting was now the correct height. A Bachmann NEM pocket was fitted into the Parkside mounting, and a Kadee NEM coupling fitted. Depending on clearance of the "scale" coupling hook, No. 17 or No. 18 couplings are suitable for Radius 2 and above operation. Tested on a curve, the modified wagons mostly coupled easily on the curve as well. Kadee no.s 17, 18, 19, & 20. NEM Couplers. Top re-built mountings. Bottom...original mountings. As far as I know, Kadee NEM couplings all have the same mounting. There is a far wider selection of lengths and mounting heights in the other Kadee Coupling ranges...but these are not for NEM mountings, without modification... If it was required to simply change to Kadees, then a No.5 or other Kadee coupling could be fitted, using a Kadee "Draft Gear Box" mounting. I am fitting stock with NEM pockets, so that I can swap couplings as required.... The Bachmann EZ-Mate and Kadee NEM couplers are all the same....I think it is called "Overset", as the coupling head is mounted on top of the coupler shank, so "stepped" in a way. EDIT: Actually, Kadee use the coupler Shank as a base-line, so the NEM couplings are in fact "Underset Shank" as the shank is under the coupling head. The no.5 is "Centerset Shank" as the shank is in line with the coupler head. (USA Spelling...) Kadee also make couplers that are "Centre-set", in line with the shank, and "Underset", under the shank. So, "Overset Shank" couplings have the shank over the coupling head! Unfortunately, these are the "Draft Gear Box" and other mountings, not NEM. The Bachmann and Kadee NEM couplers are great, providing that the pocket is at the correct height. The different lengths of the Kadee versions can composite for recessed or proud pockets, and / or the length of any buffers... (USA stock doesn't have buffers....). Using longer couplers also helps if using tight radius curves. So far, I am finding No. 20 useful for 0-6-0 Tank Locos, No. 18 for most 4-wheel wagons, No.19 for SR CCT, PMV, and Van B, and LMS CCT (Long Wheel Base vans). Some of the modified Bachmann 16 Ton Mineral Wagons have been OK with No.17 Couplers. (The pocket is slightly further outboard with the modifications...) Some wagons with protuding scale hooks, and / or vacuum pipes can need the next size up to allow for proper coupler clearance and operation. All the above tested on Radius 2 set-track curves, and an "S" Bend....I am working on allowing buffers to JUST touch on the curve, as long as the couplers also engage with each other on the curve.... The need for a stepped NEM version would only be to cope with wrongly positioned NEM pockets.... So, yes, maybe Bachmann, and any other maker who has supplied models with "wonky" pockets should make a stepped Kadee type coupling. So....Easy-Mate Stepped? Well, the mineral wagons could certainly have had the pocket at the correct height.... It is only about 1mm....so the factory mounting would still have cleared the axle, and not interfered with anything....the later and other stock with pockets at the correct height do not foul anything we have..... As it is, the BM Mk 1 coaches we have also have the mounting set too high. As these are "close-coupling cam" fitted, it will take a little more thinking about. Again....there is nothing I can see in the design that makes the pocket position neccessary.... I belive more recent versions are fixed at the righ height? We also have a BM 5-Plank wagon that has the higher mounting.....same as the 16 Ton Minerals... I have completed re-positioning the too high pockets on a BM GWR Prairie Tank loco... Kadee metal height gauge....do not use on live tracks, such as DCC! The pockets were trimmed off (except the top of the box on the front Pony Truck...). A modified pocket (trimmed Dapol type) was glued in place, with plastic strip shims to fix all together... The fixing tab fits under the axle, through a slot made in the front of the axle recess.... Agian....it is only a matter of around 1mm! The front pony truck was converted in a similar way, except that I left the top of the original NEM pocket in place. (I was hoping to re-use the original pockets, but found a better way...) The replacement Dapol NEM pocket was glued to the bottom of the oriinal pocket top, with a thin plastic card shim between them. More thin plastic sections were used to brace the sides of the replacement pocket to the pony truck frame... The BM BR Mk1 coach, and the related Hatchette Mk 1 coaches, that use a stepped coupling are at present being converted using the Keen Systems replacement drawbars. (Cream resin parts...) Blacked with a black permanent marker pen.... These put the coupler pocket at the NEM correct height....and reduce the distance between coaches as well! Quote The draw bar is a one for one direct replacement for that fitted to Bachman BR Mk I Standard and Pullman carriages. Buck eye couplers are supplied. The replacement draw bar puts the coupling pocket at the correct position for NEM standards, which allows for the use of any NEM coupler. The smooth movement allows the carriages to pass easily through Hornby radius two reverse curves. With Kadee No.20 couplers fitted, the coaches will go around Radius 2 reverse curves, and also work with a Hornby Ex LMS CCT, and a Hornby Ex SR Van C Passenger Brake Luggage Van (BY). Both of these are Long Wheelbase 4-wheelers, and use Kadee No. 19 NEM couplers without modification. Nem mountings... Parkside Dundas sell mounting blocks with the"wedge" shaped mounting that will take a Bachmann (reccommended) or Hornby (Sometimes a small shim of plastic card behind the pocket wedge mounting is useful to tighten things up a bit...) NEM pocket with the corresponding wedge mounting. Dapol NEM couplings are pretty unique, but the bulk pack of NEM couplings is usefull for pockets to glue or screw in place.... Some photos here.... https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/forum/post/view/topic_id/19221/?p=4 Edited August 8, 2019 by Sarahagain spelling and typos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 (edited) To clarify Kadee Couplings a little....As I am in the process of installing Nem pockets and Kadee couplers, I have been doing some research.... There are, it seems, seperate ranges of Kadee couplers. The "Standard Head" range (Plastic and metal heads, Standard and "Whisker" springing), "Scale Head" range (Metal heads. Standard and "Whisker" springing), , and "Shelf Range" (Metal heads, "SE" and "SF" ranges with "Whisker" springing.) The "Shelf" range is designed to help minimise accidental uncoupling, and has larger heads it seems... The "Standard Head" range includes NEM 362 Couplers #17 short, 18 Medium, 19 Long, 20 Extra Long. All to the same Heght (Overset) Plastic heads (metal knuckle flap). There are also many others including #5 "Old Reliable" (Centre Set.) which are designed to use mounting boxes, either manufacturer's fittings (Mainly on US stock...) or "Draft Gear Boxes" supplied by Kadee. Overset Shank in Kadee parlance. The head is mounted under the shank. Lowers Knuckle Height in respect of the mounting. Centerset Shank in Kadee parlance. The head is mounted in line with the shank. Underset Shank in Kadee parlance. The head is mounted over the shank. Raises Knuckle Height in respect of the mounting. There are some couplers in the No. 30 range (EG 31 and 34) that use a draft gear box that can be inverted, giving more variation in mounting height. Kadee Website...Couplers pages https://kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm Uncouplers Pages... https://kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Uncouplers.htm Kadee Homepage... https://kadee.com/ There are some dedicated tools available to assist in installing Kadee couplers and uncouplers. For adjusting couplers and uncouplers the Kadee Multi-purpose Height Gauge is useful...it has gauges for the correct height of the coupler, correct height of the trip pin, and a gauge to help set between the rails uncoupling magnets at the correct height. There are two versions. The metal one #205 will short out the track, as it is made from metal, so should only be used on non-powered track! https://kadee.com/htmbord/page205.htm The insulated version, #206 has the base made from plastic, and so is safe on live two-rail tracks... https://kadee.com/htmbord/page206.htm #205 and #206 Instructions PDF... https://kadee.com/html/205_206ins.pdf Trip pin pliers are a useful tool for adjusting the trip pins.. #237 https://kadee.com/htmbord/page237.htm Instructions PDF https://kadee.com/html/237ins.pdf There is also a jig to help in correct glueing-in place of the between the rails uncouplers...#334 https://kadee.com/htmbord/page334.htm Instructions PDF https://kadee.com/html/334.pdf There are "handouts" (some are very useful!) and instruction downloads on the Kadee website...worth a look... https://kadee.com/htmbord/helpful.htm Edited September 19, 2017 by Sarahagain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 A selection of NEM Kadees is required to suit the various models....Experimenting with various items of rolling stock with a "S" Bend of your ruling minimum Radius helps to settle on which type to use. A crossover of your minimum radius points is also useful.... In general, the back of the coupling jaws should be in line with the buffer faces....testing is the best way though... Some Kadee Coupler Info... Main USA Site... https://kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm NEM 362 Couplers. Diagram. #17 NEM-362 Short Coupler - 7.11 mm (9/32") (w/o Draft Gear Boxes) https://kadee.com/htmbord/page17.htm #18 NEM-362 Medium Coupler - 8.63 mm (11/32") (w/o Draft Gear Boxes) https://kadee.com/htmbord/page18.htm #19 NEM-362 Long Coupler - 10.76 mm (27/64") (w/o Draft Gear Boxes) https://kadee.com/htmbord/page19.htm #20 NEM-362 Extra Long Coupler - 11.68 mm (29/64") (w/o Draft Gear Boxes) https://kadee.com/htmbord/page20.htm Hattons Kadee page....other sellers are also available! http://www.hattons.co.uk/stocklist/3083609/1000588/1000661/0/Kadee_OO_Gauge_1_76_Scale_Spares/prodlist.aspx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 (edited) New experiments are taking place... Another Bachmann GWR Prairie tank with wrongly positioned NEM pockets has caused some thinking.... To avoid cutting up the pony trucks as for the last one, I have been instead modifying the actual couplings! The first test uses Kadee no. 30 series draft gear boxes, with the "spring lid" on the bottom, and the short Kadee underset shank coupling (No. 34). This has been mounted on the underside of a standard NEM mini tension lock coupling, with the "Loop" end trimmed back, and the cut down part of the loop glued across the inside ends of the remaining loop. A hole was drilled to take the Kadee plastic machine screw (Bolt) for added security. This actually works quite well! For some reason, the rear pony truck required more height than the front. Leaving the coupler lid off gained sufficient height for the coupler in relation to the Kadee height gauge. The No. 30 series draft gear box can be used either way up, and for even more variations, the coupler lid can be left off if there is a suitable surface to retain the coupler shank! A further test has been to mount a NEM Kadee coupling (No.18) to the standard NEM mini tension lock coupling, with the "Loop" end trimmed back. The NEM prongs have been cut off the Kadee, wihich is attached using a shim of plastic card around 1mm....I also drilled a small hole to take a cut down track pin, inserted from underneath for added security. It is essential to be careful with the glue! Otherwise the coupler head can end up glued as well! Edited July 6, 2020 by Sarahagain typos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 (edited) Some photos... The Nem coupling with Kadee No. 34 coupling fitted... Fitted to the loco (Front)... The Nem coupling with Kadee No. 34 coupling fitted, no coupling lid, back of the loco... The NEM Kadee fitted to a cut down NEM Tension Lock coupling...creating a "stepped" Kadee coupling! (Not painted, so the white shim can be seen...) Fitted to the loco (Front)... Kadee instructions extracts, No. 30 Series... Kadee instructions extracts, No.5...chart... Edited August 8, 2019 by Sarahagain 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 (edited) The "finished" models... Ks Plastic Kit SR CCT. (Roof Vents still needed...) SR Olive \Green "Southern Railway" and number transfers from the Ks Kit. Added BR Lettering. from HMRS (PC Models) BR Sheet. Parkside Kit SR PLV SR Malachite Green "Southern " lettering and number transfers from the. HMRS (PC Models) SR Sheet. WRENN CCT Modified. BR "Crimson" livery. BR Lettering.from HMRS (PC Models) BR Sheet. Hornby Van C (Untouched save for NEM Kadee Couplings added...) and Wrenn CCT. Edited November 12, 2017 by Sarahagain 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) The old Crownline conversion kits were really rather good....It is a shame they are no longer made. Perfect for converting the new Railroad models to something else, or just better detailed. There was a Crownline kit to convert a Hornby Jinty to the Midland Half Cab type, as now made RTR by Bachmann. Though this kit was made to fit the "front wheel drive" chassis type, it can be made to fit the Railroad type, but the cab floor needs a chunk taken out of it. (This was found out after glueing it in place, but before the glue had totally cured! ) Yes, I managed to pick up one of the Crownline kits at a train fair....and am now getting near the end of the "build".... The brake gear also needs slight modification to fit the newer chassis, otherwise the coupling rods foul the brakes! I have finally managed to get a couple of photos of the 1F....It has just been numbered 41708, the preserved example, but also inspired by a photo of 41706....until looking again at the photo, I had mis-read this as 41708! The mineral wagon is the Ex Airfix Dapol kit....it has also just been transfered! 41706....Bristol Bath Road....I think! Edited July 6, 2020 by Sarahagain spelling and typos 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) Happy New Year to all our readers! My latest build is an old Aifix BR Standard Brake Van. ( I have also finished the Airfix 16 Ton Mineral wagon, and added Brass Torpedo vents to a Parkside SR PMV and Ks SR CCT. The same vents have also been used on the brake Van...) All handrails replaced with wire. New wheels and pin point brass bearings. Nem pockets fitted with Kadee Nem #18 I think... Now awaiting paint hardening, then some gloss varnish forthe transfers....then mattish varnish, and a little dirt....it is meant to be virtually brand new! Edited December 21, 2019 by Sarahagain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) Here is a question (or two!)... Does anyone know what colour the interior of the BR Built Cattle Wagons (The Airfix/ Dapol kit version) was painted. Does anyone know what colour the interior of the BR Built Meat Van (The Airfix/ Dapol kit version) was painted. I have one of each in build at the moment..... At present I am working on the chassis...Brass bearings and Hornby Spoked wheels fitted. Nem coupling pockets to be attached next! Then the bodywork.... Edited July 6, 2020 by Sarahagain typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) The Airfix BR Standard Brake Van. Brass bearings and Hornby Disk wheels fitted. Nem coupling pockets fitted to Parkside mountings, and Kadee NEM couplings... Markits Brass Torpedo vents fitted to the roof. All moulded on handrails replaced with wire. Plastic glazing added to the cabin ends, duckets glazed with PVA glue... The axle-boxes needed drilling out slightly to fit the bearings. Plain (Not Top Hat type) brass bearings were used to get enough clearance for the Hornby Disk Wheels. Edited December 21, 2019 by Sarahagain links redone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) The Dapol (Ex Airfix) Mineral Wagon... Replacement Hornby (or Bachmann?) Disk Wheels in brass bearings. Brake gear modified to one set of brake shoes and a cross link shaft. Dapol NEM coupling pockets fitted with Kadee NEM Couplings. Old Modelmaster transfers... Now finished. The supplied plastic load has had a metal washer glued on underneath, so can be easily removed with a magnet-on-a-stick... The doors will open, for posing in the coal yard siding! Together with the Airfix BR Standard Brake Van... Edited December 21, 2019 by Sarahagain links redone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) Hornby DCC Fitted (Hornby 4-pin decoder) LMS 3f "Jinty" converted to the Midland Railway 1F 0-6-0T using the Crownline conversion kit, which was designed to fit the earlier "Front Wheel Drive" "Jinty" chassis. Some slight modification to some kit parts, mainly the cab floor, were needed! Almsost Finished! Still needs the Sandbox filler in the side tanks filled....and BR Early Emblems! Some more photos of the Hornby/ Crownline LMS 1F 0-6-0T... Edited December 21, 2019 by Sarahagain links redone 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 (edited) In the period represented by Ffrwd Locks, this Mineral Wagon is still pretty much brand new! As is the BR Standard Brake Van, Cattle Wagon, and Meat Van.... I have fitted the NEM coupling mountings to the Airfix Cattle Wagon and Meat Van Chassis....some paint now required. Over the last few days, he 1F has had the sandbox filler fiillled and painted, and small Early Emblem HMRS Transfers added....next is a coat of matt varnish.... Almost Finished...The 1F All that is really needed now is a smolebox number plate, fire irons, and a loco crew! The "storm sheet" has been made from the foil from a wine bottle cork cover! Inspired by Iain Rice (Detailing RTR locos book). He used toothpaste tube (metal)...but that is now scarce.... The retaining ropes are sewing cotton.... BR Early Emblems from HMRS BR Loco & Coach presfix sheet...I had to resist putting the bigger versions on! The Airfix Cattle Wagon... The chassis has been weighted with lead sheet underneath... The brake cross shaft and Vacuum Cylinder linkage has been represented with wire... Finished.... The original Airfix transfers tended to break up on application, especially the wagon numbers, which needed some replacements from a HMRS Presfix sheet. This was one of the more recent Airfix kits (The pictured instructions being from a much earlier kit!) and were worse than the older transfers used on the Brake Van and Meat Van! 20g of extra weights were added inside the wagon, at each end...2 X 10g... The "Clean" and "Do Not Feed" legends are from an old Modelmasters chalk lettering sheet... Edited December 21, 2019 by Sarahagain links redone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now